This is the kind of story that motivates us to keep making content, we are grateful to have provided this lifeline in your time of need! Thank you for sharing, enjoy the repair!

Thanks!

Unfortunately not, and since this was Kyle's truck (he never keeps a truck for more than 18 months), he sold it. The job is very ready though.. just a couple small bolts on the side of the throttle body!

Everything you said is correct. The aftermarket ones just don’t last as long and have a higher probability of failing due to manufacturing or rebuilding. So, if you are ok with doing the job twice or more and using the parts store warranty, we encourage gambling. As for pulling on the half shaft, you are also correct. You could pull the inner assembly out, but if you’re replacing it anyway, does it matter? If you’re not replacing it, as is always the case, take more care in removal to avoid buying parts you didn’t need at the start of the job. Thanks for watching!

@@NiceGuysGASS Thank YOU for the video!

Watch from about 6 minutes to 10 minutes again, this is a bear of a job. We ended finding it easiest to assemble the piston and the oil Stopper, then slide the upper tube into the lower, and drive that oil seal home into the lower fork (beveled portion). Add a c clip, and carry on. It helps to have more than 2 hands. Kyle did this one alone, but it took a long time to get it all lined up right.

Thanks! It’s what we’re here for.

Frame, swing arm, and forks are generally our go to for straps. Anchor to the jack/stand

@@NiceGuysGASS Awesome, Thank you for the video! I'll let you know how it goes

Not a clue what you’re saying, but thanks for watching!

@@NiceGuysGASS I didn't find anything related, the assembly of this system on Brazilian KZfaq, thank you, it helped me to assemble the brakes here!

Glad to hear it! Like and subscribe for more awesome content, viewer appreciation and engagement keeps us motivated!!

Never heard of the grinding technique, but they can be tight! Let us know how that goes, you might have found a solution to that problem!

We decided to do the clutch as well. We are in the process of making a video showing this same process without removing the whole transmission. Stay tuned!

You're welcome! Thanks for the comment

That’s wonderful news! We still recommend jack stands for safety though.

On my 2009 DURAMAX ..

Not necessarily. Mechanical problems won't always throw a cody, but an electrical/sensor problem might

Whatever we can do to help!

Generally, for Honda www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/c/honda_motorcycle/parts www.hondapowersportsparts.com/

It was included with the hub assembly. Sorry we can’t help more.

Well, where are they?

@@NiceGuysGASS someone grinded it down and sealed it I had to buy a whole new TBI

That does make it complicated

Sweet!

Sorry! We didn’t know that was a part we should have covered better!

@@NiceGuysGASS No problem. I have the same transmission jack from Harbor Freight which is essentially V-shaped. Noticed the orientation was altered 90 degrees when it was time to re-install. Wondering whether this was by design?

It might have been. Sometimes we do things intentionally, other times by happen chance.... we truly are shade tree folk

@@NiceGuysGASS I was able to complete the task yesterday, by myself. Took my time. Learned alot. Thanks.

It’s always good when you get a chance to learn! Glad we could be here to help.

Good!

They can be tough. You could try some pb blaster, then clean the connector really well before reinstall (use electric parts cleaner, not brake cleaner) Worst case scenario you break that connector and splice a new one on, or just throw a female spade connector on it

Is it possible the springs were interested into the tube incorrectly, or the height adjustment is wrong?

Why not? It can be difficult and finicky, but if you follow the video it should go back together. Could be a 2 person job to hold stuff in place while you wrench things together

It’s a 2012 Outback 6MT. We’re pretty sure based on our research most of them are the same for a generation. We’ll update the title.

Old videos serve the same purpose as new ones! Enjoy the ride!

We sure do!

What do you mean? Are you looking for the part? The video is about a 6MT. If you need help with the part, we got ours from a local Subaru dealer. They knew exactly which part to pull.

It sure does!

Glad we could help! This job wasn't too bad at all

Ok after looking harder, i have no auxiliary cooler. So I'm not sure why it's recommending me the aux cooler line. I believe the correct parts judging by pictures of the radiotor side shape are: Upper 25999417 Lower 22802047 Any way to confirm this from my glove box or vin?

Not that we know of, but usually we cross reference two sites (Amazon and Rock Auto, or Rock Auto and Napa, etc). Make sure you choose the options that match your truck (engine, 4x4, no aux cooler, etc). Then full send, take the old ones off and match them up to your new ones. If they're different, return them and bring the old ones with you to match them up. If all else fails, you can buy parts from the dealership... but that gets expensive

Yeah I usually order from Rockauto. Should have the lines by the end of the week hopefully. Thanks for the reply.

It’s really just as easy as the video shows. Let us know how it goes!

Thanks! People keep watching, we'll keep creating

Let us know how it goes!

@@NiceGuysGASS wish me luck haha perfect video. Very much appreciated

We had a similar problem when we finished ours off.

You want a video on that topic?

You keep watching, we’ll keep making!

Yes, very similar.

Much appreciated!

Great tip! Appreciate the feedback. Pinch clamps make life difficult, at times

After the nut is off, they come out. If yours are stuck use heat and a hammer.... maybe relieve some pressure on the bolt by jacking up the hub.

You can use a 10x2 board with a relief hole cut out if you need. Or use two 2x2 boards along the frame rail (that's less secure). We just positioned the jack on the most level part of the engine, took a few attempts

What we did is fill it to proper level (per dip stick). Start the engine, then fill again until full (per dip stick). Do not start the engine with a dry transmission!

Absolutely! And it should be easier doing everything at once! There are a couple other videos up that also might be helpful.

That's how we've always done it! Hope we're not wrong, but we've never had an issue

@@NiceGuysGASS wow, that really simplifies working on my bike.

Good to hear!

Either one will probably work, when we took ours apart, the tail section was sealed with silicone. The transfer case to transmission was sealed with paper. That’s how we reassembled it in the end.

Classic industries and Hawks Motorsports both sell them

Thanks for watching!

Excellent work!

Not yet we haven't! We're behind in the shop, unfortunately you might have to find the video from another channel at the moment. If you have a multimeter you'll be in pretty good shape to check the voltage by back probing the connector. You'll have three wires. One end will be ground, the other is a 5v constant reference wire. The middle is a signal wire (based on vacuum). Signal is usually 1 or less volts with engine off. 1-2 volts at idle. 5 volts at wide open throttle (engine running). You can test the sensor with the engine off by doing the same thing, but applying vacuum with a hand pump. More vacuum = idle (20ish in HG). Less = WOT (5 or less). Hope that helps!