Available on Amazon.com. Search for "Blink'n'Dim Adapter". There are two listings, with or without a power supply.

The 0-10V Blink'n'Dim Adapter works only with lights that dim with a 0-10V (or 1-10V) signal. Minimum control voltage is 0.04 volts. A light may or may not dim to 0 (off) at 0.04 volts according to its particular design. If you use a switch that your Lutron system can turn briefly off, then on, you can use it to control dimming.

Your existing toggle switch should be fine, or any other on/off switch you like. You should *not* connect a dimmer switch. The Blink'n'Dim Adapter *is* a dimmer.

It works fine with 1-10V fixtures. The "Low Trim" feature can set range anywhere between 0-10V and 4-10V, with 1-10V as default. Actual brightness at any particular voltage depends on the fixture. Not all fixtures are the same. If you apply 2% (0.2V) to a 1-10V fixture, it may not be any dimmer than it would be a 1V, or it may turn off completely.

This is a dimmer that is controlled by an ordinary switch. It should not be used with another dimmer.

Yes, you need a small 12 volt power supply for the Blink'n'Dim Adapter. It should be connected to the same switched power that operates the fixture. A three way switch setup is fine. Each switch can control dimming.

If your LV adapter has Dim+/Dim- connections for 0-10 volt dimming control, a 0-10V Blink'n'Dim Adapter can supply the control signal.

Correct, provided you can connect 0-10V control wires of all lights together. Otherwise, multiple Blink'n'Dim adapters can be synchronized.

Compared to a wireless 0-10V dimmer, a Blink'n'Dim Adapter offers better function at lower cost. Blink'n'Dim would be best integrated into light fixtures and bulbs.

@@joedoll3162 It is too expensive at $64 dollar agreed. To integrate into fixtures and bulbs you would need to speak to large luminaire manufacturers. If that's the price, it's almost more expensive than more advanced wireless Bluetooth Mesh adapters (Look up Casambi CBU-ASD). There are many questions though. Does it comply with EMC / does it have comformity documents? It really does need to be about 75% less expensive.

I agree, too expensive. I mean it’s a great idea but I have 10 lights I’m putting up, that’s $640 just for controllers.. I’ll gladly run wires to save the money. Like stated above $20 each is more reasonable.

@@austinatkins408 If all 10 lights are on a common switch, a single Blink'n'Dim Adapter can control all. For this to work, you must connect all dimming control terminals together. If you cannot physically run dimming control wires between all lights, multiple Blink'n'Dim Adapters can be synchronized to dim and brighten all simultaneously.

The external module is a modified Responsiv Power Switch Remote LED Dimming Controller, ASIN B01MXR0HOT on Amazon.com. It dims LEDs with a non-dimmable power supply by responding to Blink'n'Dim commands from the power switch.

@@joedoll3162 Thank you very much for the reply. It's good to have a base answer, I will give it a glance and make some digging to adapt to my needs. Thank you for the info & link

Would you mind explain how you added the 2 additional components to the Tric dimmer ouput : the infrared optical insolator & resistor. Which characteristic for those components (110V I guess where I'm in 220V), and how did you connect this to the Responsive Power Switch ? If you could make a video to explain, or any electronic scheme, I would really appreciate. Thank you again for your reply Regards

@@JfD_xUp I'm afraid it is something you won't be able to do at home, if that's where you're going with this. The dimming controller operates by sensing brief interruptions of supplied (DC) power, and controlling LEDs by interpreting those interruptions as Blink'n'Dim commands. The opto-isolator was wired to ground the power sensing pin during the portion of the AC power cycle when voltage was present. Thus, the power sensing pin was fed a 120 Hz square wave with a duty cycle determined by the triac dimmer. Here's the "not at home" part: To interpret the modified power sensing signal, the microprocessor was reprogrammed to respond to triac duty cycle instead of Blink'n'Dim commands. I believe this technique is cheaper and better than the "dimmability" circuitry manufacturers add to their fixtures and bulbs. Maybe one day they will agree and use it. If they do, I recommend using a limited range "signaling" triac to simplify power supply design.

@@joedoll3162 Thank you very much for your reply, even if your video is 2 yrs old now :-D

Glad you asked, Josh. "Proper" (old-fashioned triac type?) dimmers were designed for incandescent bulbs. Today, many folks want the improved efficiency of LEDs, and better light quality than fluorescents. "Proper" dimmers will not work at all with many LED fixtures. Other LED fixtures employ extra-cost circuitry to make them "dimmable". Even then, they may not dim as far as incandescents, and may flicker at low levels. This built in dimmer avoids the cost of other "dimmable" circuitry, and may well cost less to build. Many "dimmable" designs come with a dimmer compatibility chart, a list of specific dimmer models known to work with the specific fixture. Often, the specified dimmers use special, extra-cost circuitry. They also may require connection to a neutral wire, which is not present in many older switch wiring boxes. All the disadvantages of "proper" dimmers disappear if the dimmer is built into the fixture. In addition, if the fixture is controlled from multiple switch locations, dimming may be activated from any switch location. Finally, a wifi (or other wireless) switch may be used to enable smartphone, voice and/or key fob control of the dimmer.