Very helpful. Thank you! 😊

Thank you for a very informative video! I am so sad to have just found it because in my new house with pine floors I had to choose a stain very quickly and only knew I didn’t want them to be dark. So I went with Puritan Pine but was told that stain is discontinued. Chose Ipswich Pine because it looked closest to Puritan. They are so yellow and I really dislike them. What can I do to salvage them? If they are redone what will that involve? Is there a shortcut I can take to give them more of a light tan look?

Thanks for the review. Did you consider the 16-32? I’m debating which one to get. Space is also a consideration in my shop.

very helpful, thank you!

I have been staining wood since 1989. This is a very good tutorial. Tons of good information. My preference is also Minwax for staining. I have the 'feel' for it...I guess you could say. The wood conditioner is a MUST for pine, also for cherry and for western red alder. My personal favorite is Puritan Pine (#218). Most popular with customers is Early American. Driftwood is popular, as is (and I can't believe it) Golden Oak. I have 'tinted' Golden Oak with grey to some success. I use chemist's glassware when I mix colors of stain, primarily to achieve consistant results. A couple of those graduated cylinders are less than $30, and give me confidence I can successfully repeat colorations. They are also useful in reduction of topcoats especially when thinning for spray...which I do a lot of. I also use the 100/150 progression with pine when sanding a product prior to stain. While many woodworking folk will recommend a 80/120/180 progression I want the stain to penetrate and find that anything past 150 grit doesn't allow as much penetration as I would like. Finish is half the job, in my opinion. You can build a masterpiece and trash it with poorly applied finish work. It takes practice, and more practice, and finally some more practice to begin to get the 'perfect' finish. Always test the finish before application. Always test the topcoat for compatibility. Some stains will bleed through a clear coating. Some clear coats will fish-eye or blotch. It is a neverending learning process, but to me finish work is the most satisfying part of the craft.

Exactly. Basement shops are great in the summer 👍

Skyler over on Sawdust and Splinters uses straws to remove glue when she glues up boxes. New subbie here from Ireland. Just stumbled upon your channel. Looking forward to binge watching. Oh with image transfer, have you tried turning the image over and scribbling over the outline with pencil. Then turn it right way round and draw around the outline. The pressure of the pencil should transfer the image onto the wood (works on card anyway).

I just take a blunt point pencil and trace over the picture with a little pressure. It puts an indentation in the wood. If need be you can go over the indentation with a pencil to define the cutting line.

Bermanfaat kawan terimakasih atas ber baginya 🙏❤

If you drill a hole in the card the size of the dowel you can slide it over the dowel and it stays in place

Pekerjaan saudara sangat bagus kreatif luar biasa ,, 🙏👍👍 terimakasih berbaginya kawan ,,, ❤

Semoga bermanfaat ya kawan ,,, ❤ salam bersahabat ya ❤❤❤❤❤❤🌹🌹🌹🌹

Berbagi nya bagus say suka ,,, 👍 salam kenal ya dari pemula ,,,🙏

Ok you are freaking awesome, what a perfect video!! Thank you!

Push the dowels in by hand, and then use your card on top of the dowel to hammer it home...flush ta da

For the transfer with the push pin/nail, find what they call a pounce wheel, likely in a fabric store. Use the wheel to trace the pattern(finer spacing and smoother lines) and then get some dark chalk dust in a piece of cheese cloth and make a pad with the dust and pat it on your paper and the dust will pass through the holes and give you a perfect outline of what you wish to cut out. The dark dust in the tracing will also help you see the line better.

If all you have is an ink print, I'd suggest tracing it with pencil on the drawing then ironing or just trace it onto the wood using carbon paper.

I've had a box of straws in my cabinet for almost two decades! Guess now I know what I can use them for! I've seen people use isopropanol to transfer patterns to surfaces (metal, though, but maybe it'll work for wood), but yes, it does need to be toner instead of ink. Me, I either use carbon copy paper or glue the pattern to the wood and scroll away. Wish my scroll sawing were as good as yours.

Nice video! The floss trick was new to me. I think I’d also use blue tape on the edges of the crack to minimize glue spread on the surface to minimize cleanup there after making the repair.

When using the straw to pick up the glue, you don't have to trim it off each time, just pinch and pull the glue out with a paper towel, plus that helps keep the point of the straw sharpish

I use carbon paper.

For the nailtrick, use a comb (teeth) to hold the nail.

Very good, I would of used a vacuum to get the excess dust from the holes. Liked the sand paper idea.

For the pattern transfer trick, the iron will work if your pattern is printed on a laser printer. The toner remelts on to the wood. Ink not so much

Very useful tips, thanks

1:07 I have both that specific flush cut trim saw, as well as a Stanely Might Max flush cut trim saw. The Stanley is heads over heels better. Almost never needs a playing card or anything, with no scratching of the wood.

Festool make great tools but there sandpaper is crap for the price try the 3m extract it lasts longer and it’s cheaper you will have to buy a soft pad to put on your sander you probably got one with your sander I’m sure you won’t be disappointed.

Needle nose pliers work great too hold small nails

The Straw & Floss tricks are $$! The sanding card is nice too! fyi...don't cut the gooey double sided with scissors...sharp blade/knife or utility blade is my go to on that stuff....sharp chisels are always close by too!

Good video 🤠. Do you have a video or instructions for the articulating arm that is behind you? Wanting to do something like it for a light on my lathe ….. Thank you 🤠

You can also use a star wheel to transfer patterns.

I like what you showed us. Some I'd never heard or seen, and will be trying them out for sure. And I am now a subscriber and will try some of these in my shop. Thanks!

Just thinking that sheet of carbon paper would be best to trace object or a cheap projector

A plastic auto body putty knife is a better alternative to the credit card I think, but thank you for the idea! Great job and idea for this video! EDIT - A razor knife is best for cutting the tape. Hope that helps.

Great improvising and pushing through.

Impressive tricks, Katie. This is the first I've watched any of your videos. I like your clear speaking, laid back, no drama approach. Off to watch some more of your channel.. 😊❤

1:53 I never use card or blue tape. There are 2 tricks I use: (1) Use a japanese pullsaw, (without bent out teeth) (2) push down the saw with one hand right behind where you cut and that’s all. I mainly use pine/spruce fir so very soft and cheap lumber but this way still no scratches from the saw.

16:27 Use laser printer and moist the paper. I have tested and it works!

Katie I use xfasten tear by hand double sided tape and it works very well! I got mine on Amazon. Good video!!

I have a bunch of the yellow backed tape. It is a pain. I prefer the paper-backed tape that I can just rip. I leave a tail on the roll, so I don't have a problem pulling of the backing.

Great tips, Katie. I knew you would like the straw tip! I chuckled as you were cutting the double-sided tape. I have the same problem. I use it often in my shop and still haven't found a good way to cut it...

For trimming the dowels, save your self the sandpaper and use a sharp finely set block plane.If you don’t own one, I know spending money on tools for a small business is a tough choice, but a block plane has so many uses that it’s definitely worth the purchase. Do your research to find a good one. I love the Lie Nielsen No. 60 1/2 but they are $$$. A vantage Stanley might work well too if sharpened and tuned correctly.

Thank you for sharing

Search for “acrylic emulsion transfer” to see how to transfer inkjet prints from paper to other objects

I needed to hear this! Thank you!

I just found your channel! These are tips I actually haven't heard before! Nice job!!

You can put shelf liner contact paper on your wood and then spray adhesive on the paper. Easy removal and much cheaper and smoother than a bunch of blue tape

for transfering pattern, I use carbon transfer paper and trace it out

Use a reusable plastic straw. It is more durable, washable and reusable.

I just found your channel and sure like what you were doing! I subscribed so I don’t miss anymore of your videos! Thank you for sharing Katie!