At the 19:25 mark you rotate the camera, is this a rotator you have fitted in the image train please?

Thanks. I’m upgrading shortly to the 150 with the ZWO 2600 mono, so it’s nice to get to see an Esprit being put together.

AEF, will not allow my scope to fit in its case, without cutting the foam, the result of cutting the foam, would result in not enough foam left to protect the scope at that point. NOT 1 video on the ASI EAF shows how to set the focuser to min for storage. Might be great for an observatory rig, but a pain for those who have to set up every night, if the EAF has to be removed from the focuser to enable fitment to the case

Im sure this beast will fit on my tracker

Nice

Excellent! The Image Composite Editor was exactly what I was looking for, after a night of shooting the moon with a Celestron 9.25 in SharpCap. One question - when you were showing the Backyard EOS program, was it connecting your computer to a WiFi hotspot on your Canon camera? I've left a rail position open on the top of the Celestron to mount an SRL to get photos with a wider field of view.

Hi Ian - I'm also in the UK but a complete beginner... enjoyed your set-up video and this image looks great! You have a new subscriber.

Excellent video, thank you SIR!!

Tell me where you bought the 62 mm adapter ?

Hi, could I ask how you store the scope once you fitted EFA? I have the same scope and was going to fit the EFA the other day, then realised once I do it won’t fit in original hard case Cheers

Hmmm..Why you take one expo of minute and other ones are 5ms? I have 294mc pro and zenithstar..and i wanna shoot full moon this night :)

Hey you didn't include what you used to mount the gs, what did you get? Ty

Great video. The only way I can get an image from my asiair plus on to my tablet is in the preview mode. I also noticed that you had some icons that I don't have. Is there a step that I am missing to get a real time image?

After setting the zero then getting the figure for the maximum the tube will go out ,the maximum figure goes back to 60000 as in the video.Does that mean I have to reset the maximum figure every time I use the aef?

I read somewhere that one guy said to increase Gain to 140- 160 when using narrow band filters any comments on this tks

I see you are using an ASI294MC Pro. I'm considering this camera but I've read the flats exposure should be 3 to 5 seconds to alleviate calibration artifacts etc. You obviously aren't having any issues from what I can see. Have you ever had calibration artifacts using ASIAir auto flats. I have an C8 SCT. I'm testing a light panel now with an embroidery ring with T shirt material. Even at the lowest panel brightness two sheets of T shirt is too bright. Test with four T shirts, still won't calibrate. I used the white sleeve to store the light panel. With this it finally calibrates. The histogram is average 47303. Exposure is auto calculated at 10secs. My goal is 5 second exposure with the histogram below 32768. When I use manual method 5 seconds, four T shirts, white sleeve. panel on lowest dimmable setting then I get 23671 average a little too low. Panel dimming isn't adjustive in fine enough amounts. I'm thinking of purchasing some neutral density filter film to tape on the panel.

Appreciate the video. Be aware that as of 9/2023 [or maybe earlier] the Takahashi kit does not work as described. First, you have to now assemble the grate [no big deal] but the 35 mm screws are too long now 40 mm so you either have to use a s$itload of washers, cut the screw or buy shorter screws. The install on my Esprit 120 has been pretty tough actually. The spindle holder did not fit well into the focuser so it was tough to get it tightened onto the spindle without it locking up. I know Starizona has a pre-fit holder but it is back-ordered for who knows how long, right? Overall a PIA [and not yet done]. Update: Turns out I had a defective ZWO EAF cylinder. Purchased another EAF and it fit perfectly!

Excellent tutorial, very informative, many thanks for sharing!

You haven’t posted in awhile. I hope all is well.

My name is shigeru and I live in Japan (near Yokohama). I ordered EFW today. It will arrive tomorrow. Ian_san, this video is timely and very easy to understand. I want to play it over and over again to understand it. thank you ian_san

I just saw your first light video for the Esprit 120. I’ve had mine since 2018. The telescope setup has evolved over time. Like you, I put it on an EQ6R Pro. Initially, there was an unmod’d Nikon 850 on it, no guiding. Two years ago the focuser fell apart. I bought a feather touch. Even it needed better knobs. A buddy made some on the lathe. Now I use the ASI6200MM and a guider. Last spring I bought the SW reducer. My lathe buddy made an adapter for the Feathertouch to mate with the reducer. The faster system is wonderful. Try the reducer someday.

Quite a good result although I think stacking stills is the way to go for sharper results, particularly given that modern mirrorless cameras can take stills exceptionally fast. Take care.

Bonjour quel est le type de vis pour mettre une queue d’aronde au dessus

Beautiful work. I just cannot follow because it’s too fast and I’m new to PI.

Really like the addition of what was happening on earth when the light left all those targets.

Excellent video. I can’t wait to try it out for myself.

Hey Ian, thats amazing! ive never used the video mode on either of my ASIAIR'S before! but know I know how, the moon is my next target! Thanks for sharing Clear Skies!

4:38 I recently learned that you don't have to go back to Home before using Go To. You can Go To directly from the sideways angle in the second part of Polar Align.

Espectacular fabuloso

Excellent tutorial Question On my asiair pro app after I capture and I go in play videos it’s NOT showing the icons on below the screen as I see on yours stacking left delete right On mine is pure blank no icons Any ideas ? I was storing video’s directly to usb is maybe why? Than I took the usb to computer it was showing avi files and jpg pictures already stacked

That is an impressive result! And without using PIPP and all the other programs. Just with the stack feature of the little red box. Really great image.

Excellent pictures too

Excellent video One question I have How do zoom in the object I couldn’t see it .

Really nice video ! Thanks very much for this great job.

Exactly the topic i was looking for. I still have mc, looking at these same filters, and how to get started.

Very nice Ian thanks! I'll be doing this next week with my FF80 when it arrives. I have to say (without wanting to denegrating your good result) that final M33 image closeup doesn't appear to be any more in focus than my own M33 taken with a similar (EON 130 APO) telescope and a Bahtinov mask. The autofocus seems to take a lot of time too (and 'waiting' time always drags slower than 'busy' time). Living in a city flat, I have to stand guard over the rig when it is operating, so I use live mode EAA to amuse me while I'm capturing lights. I only use 'plan' to remember and manage my calibration routine and run that at the start of the session. But it seems the EAF refocus triggers are only available in plan mode. I can't help feeling I let myself fall victim to the hype and bought me a solution to a problem I don't have, together with some features I cant use! You would think I'd have learned at my age 🤣. Still I'm sure to enjoy building the new rig and playing with the toy!

please verify the back focus spacing from the flattener to the imaging surface. you say 75mm. I believe it is 55 mm from back of flattener to image surface. I took this from cloudy nights regarding the set up "Backfocus of 75mm they write in the manual is misleading, it is actually 55 mm starting from the M48 adapter that sits behind the field flattener. 75mm is the required distance from the edge of the flattener to the sensor, but included with the flattener, you should have an adapter that allows to keep a remaining 55mm backfocus to your sensor, which will be a plug and play on any DSLR, and / or building an imaging train to reach 55mm with the ASI1600. Fortunately, ZWO included ALL the necessary adapters to reach that distance. I have already showed my imaging train with exactly this setup somewhere on this forum I believe..

Thank You!!!

Nice, just ordered one after looking around for a larger refactor for the last year. Pretty excited can’t wait to get it under some dark skies.

What do you mean heavy? It is 10kg. Where is motorized focuser? Do you do manual focus whole night?

Thanks Ian .. nice job.

I just got this scope to increase the aperture (as small of an increase as it is) of my portable widefield rig. This video was SUPER helpful! Appreciate it and clear skies!

Thanks so much for this. My Astro journey is going to include a filter wheel and mono camera also so this video is invaluable Cheers Si

Hi Ian, thanks for this video! I was scratching my head the other night wondering why my asi air plus wasn't framing as pictured on the device. Im gonna give the coordinates method a try to avoid future disappointment. 👍

Extremely glad I stumbled across this video - extremely informative and well presented tutorial! The stitching software (Microsoft Image Composite Editor) was retired a few years ago, but if you google "Microsoft ICE wayback" then the internet wayback machine has a trustworthy link. Finding this tool was a game changer, so thanks for that as well!

Great video! Thx so much!!

I heard that mount should be 3-4 times more expensive than scope. What do you think?

It was a good demo but I agree with some of the earlier comments - I'd be inclined to install the bracket onto the EAF first. An EAF by its very nature has to perform some delicate tasks and having the EAF hanging on the spindle - as well as any downward pressure put on it by your hands - may not be good for it.

Many thanks for this. I have been using Astropixelprocessor for stacking, but just started using WBPP in PixInsight. For WBPP you have to bring the DARK FLATS in as DARKS and not as BIAS frames. So in the Asiair I found it better to label them as DARKS and not as BIAS frames, then they will automatically be assigned correctly within WBPP. Thanks!

many thanks Ian. Pls can I ask one (potentially very stupid) question: you are doing this to try and get your camera in the right position from the start, so that you don't have to move it again after polar alignment. Does that mean that you set the camera angle whilst the mount is at the home position, i.e. mount position for setting camera angle is same position as for polar alignment? thanks!