You're not the first one to ask this 🤦🏻‍♂️ I should have included that in the video, lol. I have an o ring assortment that I just grabbed one out of, so I'm not exactly sure of the size. I wish I could be of more help. You can take the old o ring to any parts house, and they can match it up. I know this will probably be an additional trip. Hopefully, someone else who does this job will post the size they used. If I get another power steering pump job in, I'll be sure to post it. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the feedback! If you have any questions during the process, post them up, ill.be happy to help how I can.

Thanks for the feed back!

Have you pulled any codes? And do you have access tona scanner with live data?

@diy_automotive Its cammed so the misfire codes were deleted during the tuning process

I haven't messed with many modified engines. I'm guessing the misfire started later after modifications? Do you have an idea which cylinder it is? Not sure what all tools you have available, I would try to isolate the specific cylinder. Not sure how aggressive the cam is. You could possibly unplug one coil at a time and see if you can find it that way. A compression test would be great, if possible, a leak down test. Other ideas would be to check pulses on injectors/coils to see if they're getting proper signal to fire.

I couldn't agree more. I've noticed that the majority of failures I see are on #6, I wonder why that is, or if that's just something odd that's happened with me.

I know the feeling. 2015 sierra #4 went out

@@AlvitaAntoinetteMeans I'm glad it helped!

Awesome! I'm glad the video helped, thanks for watching.

I hate that it didn't help you, I was very limited on camera angles for this one.

@JonnyDang-iv6ix have you done a compression test on cyl 1 and 3? Any other codes besides a P0303?

I did not

@@YotaguyJosh how so?

@@diy_automotive the colored link should be lined up to the passenger side. In other words, where your colored link is centered, it should be one tooth to the passenger (in LHD versions) side of the engine. LCE has a good video pointing it out. I made the same mistake and wouldn’t have figured it out if I hadn’t found the LCE video.

@joshstauber3335 Thanks for the heads up, toyota Repair data says align links how I did. I know when I installed it, I didn't have any timing issues, so I was curious if there was a difference depending on a year, etc. I watched the video you mentioned, and he references the key way for cam gear, not the dot it's self. If you look the shiny link is to the left of the key way in my video, I think the main problem is people who have a cam gear with out the indicator are going off of the key way it's self which would cause the timing to be off a toothe. Thanks for the comment. I got my brain thinking and learned something new to watch out for in the future. I'm also sure others reading this in the future will double-check their setup, giving them another chance to catch a mistake. Edit: he actually mentions the dot style cam gear and explains that the dot is positioned to the left of the keyway/dowel pin.

That was a long time ago, I typically use a scope. On this one, I more than likely used a multimeter to look for pulses or voltage while engine was spinning

That's awesome! I'm happy it helped. Was it easy to follow? Anything you found difficult to understand? This is the entire reason I make these videos, so people can confidently work on their vehicles, save some money, and learn during the process . Thanks for the response. People's stories help me get through the tougher days when doing this, haha.

@@diy_automotive Not hard at all to follow, very easy to understand. I have a little background in working on cars, but I never thought I’d do anything on my Range. This video gave me the confidence to see it through!

@ayes22 awesome, thanks again. I have a video that will be released next week on rear brakes/rotors without needing a scan tool on the same rover. They're a regular customer so hopefully I'll have some more useful videos up in the future

You're welcome, I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the feed back.

I agree, it was difficult trying to get the camera in there where you could see the bolts and also be able to fit the tool in there to remove them. That's why i went over bolt locations with the pump out, so hopefully, viewers could get a better understanding of where they are

Could be, cylinder 6 is an afm cylinder. Could also be a fuel injector as well. Any codes besides just a p0306?

I haven’t gotten no other codes just the misfire code

How can I test the injector to see if that is my issue

The easiest way I know is hooking a pressure gauge to the fuel system and then using a scanner to command the injector on. You'd read the fuel psi drop and compare it to the other injectors. To rule out wiring issues, you can use an LED test light, make sure it's LED.. and check the injector plug with the engine running. Key on, you should have power on the pink wire, and with the engine running, the other wire should be pulsing ground

No worries man, you're welcome

I'm not sure, I'll look when I get back to the shop in a few hours

Do you have access to a scanner with live data? I'd be curious if you have other cylinders misfiring. I would borrow a compression tester and check compression on that cylinder. Also swap a plug wire around just to be sure

Yes, on the side near bottom

You really need a scanner to do the relearn, or at least that's how I've always done it (some vehicles don't have the option) according to highway71autoparts.com you can try this method - NOTE: If the Crankshaft Variation Relearn is not accessible through your scanner (some truck applications 1998 & later), perform the relearn in the following manner: Turn off all of the accessories. With the Air temperature sensor and Coolant temperature within 5 degrees (Centigrade) of each other, start the engine and let it idle in Park or Neutral for two minutes. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for 8- 10 minutes until the engine reaches operating temperature. Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6 minutes. Decelerate to 45 mph without using the brakes, and maintain 45 mph for 1 minute. Perform 4 deceleration cycles, without using the brakes, of 25 seconds each where no specific speed is necessary. Returning to 45 mph for 15 seconds in between deceleration cycles. Accelerate to 55 mph and cruise for 2 minutes. Stop the vehicle and idle for 2 minutes with the brake applied and the transmission in Drive (automatic trans.) or Neutral (manual trans.) with the clutch depressed.

Thanks so much you just saved me 300 I appreciate it buddy

@Chravis98 you're welcome, glad I could help.

Pretty great description huh? Hahaha

Have you pulled the codes?

@@diy_automotive yes the cylinder 1 and 6 misfires went away after changing spark plugs and coils and now it’s the random multiple p0300 it is almost a 10 year old car I think I’m gonna do the fuel filter next maybe it’s dirty from sitting hopefully and if I do a wot pull it’ll sometimes go into limp mode from misfiring still after changing plugs and coils

@Chris54234 I would check throttle body blade to see if it's dirty, run some higher octane fuel through it as well. Hopefully that will have it back to normal. It's hard to give you exact steps to follow with out reading live data

Thank you so much for the feed back. That's my goal, even though I don't always accomplish it in every video. I try to make each video detailed enough that someone with no knowledge on the repair can confidently perform it while also not dragging the video out with clutter.

That's great! If you have any questions throughout the process, post them in the comments, and I'll help however I can.

I'm sorry, I don't remember. I have an O ring assortment and just grabbed one out of it I believe

P0017 means the cam and crank sensor aren't seeing the same data (simplified version) this video shows the crank sensor you'd most likely want the cam sensor, when I get back to the shop I'll look up the location. It should be towards the front of the head. These vehicles were known for timing chain issues, among other things, so I would also check your oil for the proper level and be sure it's changed at the proper intervals

Thanks man

@@danieltaki219 possible causes for p0017 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Loose or Installed Incorrectly Crankshaft Reluctor Wheel Moved From Crankshaft Top Dead Center (TDC) Engine Valve Timing Incorrect Timing Chain Tensioner Depending on the price of the cam sensor, you could toss one on and hope for the best. If that doesn't fix your problem, more in-depth diagnostics would be needed to find out if it is a mechanical problem with the timing itself. these engines are known for timing chains stretching. Location: rear of engine right below the valve cover (belt side of engine), there will be 2 cam sensors yours should be the furthest one back, I wish I could post a picture for you, I would look up the sensor on a parts website and that should help give you an idea of what you'll be looking for.

Unfortunately, at least you didn't have to disconnect the lines

@@diy_automotive on my 09 f150 5.4 3v though its such a pain there is no room most videos dont show you them removing everything to make all that precious room

@alphaturd6922 I completely understand, typically removing the part of easy. Getting to it is the challenge .

I understand, 😅 the silverados and the charcoal canister cause the same fueling issue when you need to pump 20 gallons and you can only let it trickle it'll get on your nerves. I'm glad you liked the video, I appreciate the view and comment

Pushing it in without taking the transmission out?

@@diy_automotive yep

I also tried the starting trick on the starter, and it didn't work

So, jumping the starter solenoid didn't crank the engine over? If that's the case you either have a starter problem or an issue with power to the starter

​@diy_automotive Yeah, I was thinking it might be, is there a way to test if the starter is bad?

Video is up

Any noise? Is the misfire noticeable? Lot of better options than it being a lifter 😅

I have the same thing, 05 gmc 5.3 Started feeling rough during take off. Threw that code out. Did a compression check, #3 cylinder has 60lbs

@drewcherry2794 I hate that for you, how much compression did the other cylinders have?

If so, get prepped for removing the cyl head.

@@diy_automotive 110, 115 It's got 310k miles. Runs like a raped ape when you ease off in it still. It started with a small shimmy going into reverse. Changed plugs and wires, noticed #3 had broke ceramic off of the plug. I think a piece of that ceramic insulator may have bent something

If you run into any problems let me know, I'll be happy to help.

That little rod piece that is supposed to turn with the ignition, mine is completely loose

Would there be a way to access that little rod? Nevermind, it was the dimmer switch I was looking at

😅 its your truck, I normally advise against that. If you know what you're getting into and you just want to replace parts then I don't see a problem with it.

@@diy_automotive started with a 0P300 code, so I did the coil packs and plugs. Plan on the crank sensor and then cleaning the EGR. Plug wires seem to be fine. I've seen those 4.6s at junkyards with upto 300k miles on them and my transmission is still strong so I'll keep 'er until the motor or transmission goes out. Already had it for about 10 years and has been very reliable and easy fixes.

@longbow6416 I agree. At 190k, it's got plenty of life left. Was the p0300 the only code? Do you have access to a scanner with live data? It could be anything from a vacuum leak, IAC, EGR, air filter, bad fuel or filter etc. Sooooooo many options with just a p0300. Looking at some live data could help narrow it down quite a bit.

That's what toyota says to do 🤷‍♂️ I'm guessing the ecm wants it there for its compensation. 22r is installed at 0 degrees, 22re is installed at 5 degrees

@@diy_automotive good to know....

It's a complicated algorithm with those numbered weeks 🤣😅😅

What else did you notice?🤔😌

You sir, have passed the hidden test. Congratulations! 😅

😅😅😅 what can I say, I make mistakes some times

😅😅😅 uh oh, I mixed up weeks and months

The one in the video has a little over 500k 😅😅 they're tuff little trucks

Good deal, if you have questions feel free to post them. Don't forget to flush the system as well 👍

Do you have any other codes? Maybe a lean code for bank 2 or o2 codes?

Check the ground wire behind power steering pump

@@diy_automotive I do have these 2 exact codes on bank 1 though. What could that mean?

What are the codes you have?

@@diy_automotive P015B and P3400