Are they drywall screws through the metal washers? Should be stainless

Why buy a condensing combi with all the benefits of cost cutting, to fit a secondary loop system which is proven waste of money, people often complain saing am wasting gallons of water before I get hw ? 1. you are not wasting water, there is still the same amount of water on this planet as there was on the day of creation(fact, check it out) 2. water being on a meter or rates costs less than 1/1000 times less than wasting gas; ie run your tap for 30 seconds of cold water to get hot water at 10ltrs/min costs you 0.001p if you use a pre heated gas boiler you get hot water after 10 seconds using 0.01p of water but you have pre burnt 10p of gas, water will never run out but gas will

Brilliant!

Did you prime the 50mm adapter before connecting the straight solvent . My solvent connector wasnt sticking.

Will using a basin tap as a bath filler not mean the bath fills way too slowly?

Cracking job. Very high standard of work

Nice job guys 😎

Apologies in advance for what is probably a dumb question, but with the open loop system, can i assume your rads upstairs are 'on' whenever the UFH is on?

Great video, exactly what you said, a lot of us old sole traders out here waiting to take the step over to ASHP. Interesting to see how you are tackling it all. It looks like Viessman have taken a lot of the ball ache out of these installations by the components doing everything you need them to. I assume its an expensive lot of kit but it looks like they make an installers life a lot easier and that can only be a good thing for us all. Really smart looking job, well done. Look forward to follow up video, thanks.

Very nice job. Interested in the Viessmann design side of things because this is crucial to success, who did the actual heat loss calculation - did Viessmann do that themselves? I ask because it is such an integral part of the design process and all the downstream MWT and emitter sizing results from it. On the bracketing of the external primaries - yes, external pipe support (around the primary pro) does not look as good but Munsons are effectively conductive bridges to the brick wall so not as thermally efficient. Finally, is the homeowner up to speed with fine tuning the weather compensation (curve and level)going forward or are you intending to tweak this remotely for them? Thank you for sharing, it would be good to get an update post 24/25 winter, in terms of system performance and customer satisfaction.👍

We’re installing one next month, 8kW unit (same turn down as a 6kW - so went for this to improve the DHW recovery). I’m thinking of using a grid switch with 3 x 20A DP switches and fuse modules. We’re going all open loop with weather comp, 16mm UFH in screen downstairs and 12mm UFH (grooved chipboard) upstairs…. Looking forward to it

Great job and install again. I'm sure it will perform well. Shame installs like this are totally unaffordable for the vast majority.😢

Great video, what temp do you design the rads for with it running on the same weather comp curve as the UFH?

Are the 3x spurs actually three separate cables going back to 3x 16amp breakers on the fuseboard? Would the viessman be able to identify if it was one breaker split into 3 spurs?

Interested to see how they get on with open loop control and no control on the upstairs rads, they may end up with a window open at night :-)

Hi great vid. You mensioned a Japanees adaptor for the grohe toilet. I'm planning to use the same system and would like to get a more comfy seat on the Grohe pan. Can you pls let me have the details? Thanks

Freeze valves need a minimum of 150mm below

Thank you for sharing this interesting install. You mentioned that the property was highly insulated but very kindly showed the underfilled cavity.😉

Cracking job, but these installs are so far removed from reality for normal people these unit are what 6/7k plus near enough 10k plus for the installation including underfloor etc. ticks a box yes, im sure the owners are more than happy when they pull off in a range rover having this at home.

Cracking job 👏

That's quite a large void giving no support to the drain and surrounding area on the wet room, I've seen lots fail for this reason with that same kit.

Great job mate

Did you get this job from viesmann. You do good work.

You gone through it way quick do you have a diagram for the system

Why not press fit

I have a question on the hot water outlet on top. I want to install an immersion heater but the 22mm copper pipe runs across the nut where the heater will be installed. Would it be okay to rise the pipe up about 6" to make room for the heater? or is there a reason why the 90deg bend is thigh to the top of the cylinder? A Great tutorial by the way

question, I'm thinking to use the jackoboard as well for my shower install that's coming up. What do you use to cut the board to size? (it looked so clean on yours) 😀

Could you not get your arm out of the bottom hole to smooth over the top hole fill?

Orry, what areas do you cover?

Is that boss white?

Quality job

Nice shering

Excellent video, did my first Buteline rad extension last month. Its actually very simple system.

Very nice install. Love it,. And you and bailey as usual smashed it. Great work guys.

Thanks this is a really nicely done video. Small question is it better to do the flush or power flush before installing the new boiler or after. Just wondering if it is done before (using the old boiler to heat it up), the sediments in the pipes and radiators won’t go through the new boiler

Something to think about - I always thought a plate heat exchanger should be piped countercurrent Eg boiler flow top / boiler return bottom - system flow top system return bottom Just think of a combi plate heat exchanger - mcw and boiler return are together as are hot out and boiler flow If you leave it like that the flow to the system will be at the boiler return temperature ie 20 deg lower then you require - plus the temperature degradation loss To quote Andrew Millward - hope that helps 😂

They have a reset button linked to the thermostat. If engaged it wont heat. If you have a range cooker that heats water the water my get too hot and reset the immersion if you have forgotten to switch it off

That is a sweet install mate, I've just priced something similar for a customer, I'm always nervous about pressurising old systems

Nice looking job Luke

Why is the pump on the return pipe ?

So if the vent and cold feed come all the way down to the cupboard….why use a plate?

If the cold feed gate valve is open, does that mean that cold water is going into the cylinder as you are working? Or did you run the shower to the extent that you used it to empty the cold tank and drop the level in the cylinder as well?

Lovely install!

Interesting job - how are they producing DHW?

Nice work lads 👌 we’ve just done a very very similar job to that one 😎

Loving this plumbing video

Hi, very useful video - thanks. Just a quick one. I have a gate valve between my cold water cylinder and the hot water, and also the second outlet for a pumped shower the same as this. In order to drain down as you suggest, does that result you essentially draining the cold water storage tank fully, and then the top of the HW cylinder will drain?

Why is this called budget? Would you use part plastic in high end jobs too?

Do you need to strengthen the roof trusses if you put a tank in the attic? There must be a fair weight when full of water. I'm planning putting my thermal store in the attic. Thanks

great vid, if you were called to install a boiler but the customer was not willing to agree to power flush the system before hand , would you agree to the install ? even tho by default this would make the warranty invalid (I assume) and would you make note of this on the commisioning documents