With most GFCI outlets you have to make sure that the line and neutral wires are from the same run (black and white wires are in the same jacket). This ensures that they are the same length and are very close to the same resistance. That said, often times when there are multiple lines and neutrals in the same J-box, if the wrong neutral is connected to the GFCI outlet, it will not reset (it stays in the fault mode). Hope this helps. If you find it helpful, please report back and consider donating to the channel.

Yes. I actually like working with wood flooring when it comes to repairing plumbing. It’s much easier.

Are you referring to the fitting I showed sliding over the pipe? If so, it’s a splice fitting with few turns of tape on the outside (the black material shown in the video) to increase its outside diameter. Hope this helps.

Will it not get stuck when you pour the concrete

⁠@@gamerval2610No, it’s removed before the cement is completed set.

Thank you.

Thank you. Yes, in my opinion it’s a great installation friendly design.

This was done few years ago and everything is working great. You must troll KZfaq to find issues with DIY videos and show how much you think you know. Stop wasting your time, please find something productive to do.

It’s been working great since the renovation, few years ago. You can always hire a plumber and pay thousands of dollars. In your case, I suggest you do that.

It’s usually the other way around, freezer is cold but the fridge side is not. And, that is caused by the internal fan not working. Sorry, I am not sure what could be causing your issue other than low refrigerant.

The second live lead could be for the light. Just a guess.

So, if the top thermostat is bad and is sending the call for heat to both the top and bottom elements at the same time, that would trip the breaker.

Yes, you are correct. Very good observation.

@@JustForYouDiy , I thought about how these can work or should work. Correct me if I'm wrong. The upper thermostat is an either/or switch. It's always on. It sends power to the upper element and when the proper temp is reached, it switches power from the upper element and sends it to the lower element. So, there should be continuity on the left side or to the upper element or lower but not both. The lower thermostat is an on/off switch. It's on until the proper temp is reached. If the proper temp is reached no continuity. If the heater isn't working and the water cold, there should be continuity. If the upper switch is faulty, possibly it could send power to both elements at once? In such a case it would exceed the amperage load and trip a breaker. In my case, it's two 4500 watt elements for a total of 9k watts. 9k watts at 240 is 41 amps. Since this is an old house, it's on a 30 amp cartridge fuse. That would account for it blowing the fuse with both elements giving me 11 ohms. Another breaker possibility could be the element grounding out to the tank. That's not my case but others reading this might have that problem.

If you are referring to water shutoff stops, this valve does not have stops. Please see my other video for delta valve showing how stops work.

Temperature-sensitive bi-metal disc thermostat. Hope this helps.

@@JustForYouDiy hey thanks for your reply And for the video man. Im familiar with bimetal disc temperature safeties (klixon) for a set temperature cut out, but not sure how they can be used for a range of different temperatures settings?

By controlling the gap between the two metals. This may help. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbGne7WEq7yrk58.htmlsi=C7ctkL3kX2asIgPt

@@JustForYouDiy sweet as thanks man. I’m used to capillary thermostats! Cheers

My pleasure.

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I'm interested in the details.

Thank you for the interest. The individual jar holder can hold a 1-5/8” square jar, typical spice and herb jar sold by Walmart. It has two countersink screw holes in the rear for mounting. Use of #6 x 3/8” flat head screws are recommended (Home Depot 872-578). As seen in the video, the mounting holes are accessible through the front two triangle holes. The left side wall of the holder is slightly narrower than the right side, this reduces the overall width when stacked next to each other while allowing for a thumb and index finger to grab the jar. The bottom of the holder has many holes including a hole at each corner to allow for ease of cleaning. Furthermore, as you can see in the video, there is a notch cutout in the front of the holder to reduce the overall vertical stacking height by allowing the jar to tip forward. The .stl file for 3D printing is for sale for $3.00 as long as the product is used for personal use and it is not sold. If you are interested in purchasing the .stl file, please let me know. Hope you found this information helpful.

Most likely it’s powered by the 24V from the air handler, terminals C and R. Hope this helps.

@@JustForYouDiy thank you! Since this is the case, I shouldn’t need batteries then? Could there be something wrong with the wiring? I was planning on having someone come look at it tomorrow. When I take the batteries out, the screen goes blank after about 30-45 mins.

@@BlueEverAfterthis is the same exact problem I’m experiencing. Someone came and installed this new Pro thermostat and it didn’t have batteries. The next day it turned off and now it’s not working.

If it has a terminal marked “C” it is designed to get power from the AC’s 24V. Or, use batteries. The thermostat will work with either power source. In cases when the thermostat is powered by the AC’s 24V, the batteries become the backup power source. However, if AC’s 24V fails (bad fuse, bad transformer, bad wiring), the AC would not run. So, if the AC is running and the “C” terminal has a wire attached to it but the thermostat will not power up, wiring issue or thermostat issue. Using a voltmeter and measuring the voltage between “C” and “R” in normal condition you should get 24V-28V AC. Hope this helps. Here’s one of my videos going over the AC basics. How air conditioner works, basics 1 of 2 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d95lY7GSvKiWho0.html

Inductive load such as the motor in the compressor does not play nice with GFCI outlet’s circuitry. Age and MFG play a big role in this. That said, you could replace the GFCI outlet in question as its age maybe questionable. Or, follow the instructions in this video which will definitely fix it. I personally, don’t power a fridge with a GFCI or GFCI protected outlet. Hope this helps.

My pleasure. Glad to hear it worked out for you.

My pleasure.

You will find these short videos helpful. Red Disc Seal & Danco Slip-On Spout 88434, How to Hide RDS-C8 Under the Spout, Up to 3.25” of Pipe kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8l-ZrV1t9LIenU.html Can You Cut Red Disc Seal, RDS-C8, to Fit the Back of the Spout? Yes. Very Easy DIY kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d7yDedKY2NjHdps.html How to Hide the Disc Under the Spout, Red Disc Seal Installation Tips kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h8uYfNplrtHGcp8.html

My pleasure.

Thank you.

I agree . I like the directions and camera work. The little details assisted. Thank you

My pleasure.

Glad to hear that. And, thank you very much for the “super thanks”, much appreciated.

Please visit www.RedDiscSeal.com to purchase. There are three different versions.

@JustForYouDiy is that the one in lowes that has 3 different ones in the pack I believe original designed for a toilet but..? I found a rubber o-ring that I put in the same place that appears to have fixed the issue.. I'll pray it continues to work I guess.. thanks for your help and reply either way!

@@mattcarolina Which Red Disc Seal is right for you? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oLt1lK5e3N7De2g.html

Of course, you can always do that. However, whatever is plugging into that outlet will not benefit from GFCI protection.

@@JustForYouDiy it’s in a garage. New freezer keeps tripping GFCI. Did away with the GFCI because it seemed pointless although its code. Electrician said it was a nuisance trip anyway. Thanks for the good video though.

The electrician is correct, almost all GFCI trips caused by a frige is a nuisance trip. The reason is because GFCI circuit used in the outlet does not like an inductive load (any device that has a coil of wire in it), such as compressor that is used in a fridge. The electrical noise generated by such devices most often trip GFCI outlets. Hope this helps to better understand the reason.

When I removing the tab on an outlet to create a switched outlet, ONLY remove the tab for the line and NOT the tab for the neutral. And, yes, one hot (line) that is switched can take care of both switched outlets.

​@@JustForYouDiy little more info. I have 2 half hot outlets and 2 regular outlets downstream on this circuit. The 1st half hot seems to be the main outlet which has 3 sets of cables coming into the box. One is a 14/3, and two are 14/2. The 1st half hot outlet is working properly because its using the 14/3 wire. Cant get the 2nd half hot to work but it did be4. Q. How do I carry this hot traveler wire (14/2) to control the 2nd half hot outlet and one regular outlet downstream? Gold tab removed on second outlet and not on neutral. This has boggled my mind for days now. Thanks again..

Thank you.

Glad to hear that you found the video helpful.

Please visit www.RedDiscSeal.com to purchase.

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$17.

Thank you.

I have used this method for repairing holes as large as 4”x4”. It may not be stable enough for holes larger than that. For larger holes, I use pieces of wood on the back for support. Hope this helps.

@@JustForYouDiy thank u

My pleasure.

Thank you. Every one of these type of valves that I’ve seen the temperature knob rotates 360.

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Excellent. I believe your order was through Amazon. If so, it was shipped today.

To close the gap to keep debris out, you can add plastic edge trim for landscaping (available from HD and Lowe’s) to the inside.