The benefit was to test the possibilities for a flight worthy scale propeller made with a 3D printer. I have since flown many dozens of flights with several different versions of the Hamilton Standard propeller from World War Two.

I bought all of my rough Ethiopian opal from Etsy: www.etsy.com/search?q=rough%20opal%20parcel&ref=auto-1&as_prefix=rough%20opal

I bought all of my rough Ethiopian opal from Etsy: www.etsy.com/search?q=rough%20opal%20parcel&ref=auto-1&as_prefix=rough%20opal

Thank you! Yes, I will release the files, though it will be after I finish constructing my new workshop. Most likely that will be at least one month from now, I will alert you here when that happens.

Shoot me an email. Click on my icon, you will find my email on my KZfaq home page.

Hi el-dude. Great comment. No, I have not tried TPU, though I am aware of it. Getting advice like you have written is actually priceless, for I would was not even aware of the ratings available for differing outcomes. Mostly for budgetary reasons, I have confined myself to one brand and color of PLA filament recently, because there are tremendous differences in PLA qualities between brands and even colors by the same brand. Even though I have printed over a half-dozen rolls of this particular sapphire blue, it took quite a while and many experimental prints to learn its strengths and weaknesses. My printer is also an ancient DIY kit and even though I have been using it for almost a decade, it is still teaching me new things today (a tinkerers dream machine). I am a little scared to try running material other than PLA through it, fear of the unknown and what any mishaps might cost in down-time and money. One of these days I may even graduate from the early Slic3r slicer program I am still using after all these years! My propellers do have separate blades and a two-piece hub to capture the blades held together by three screws installed from the rear hub. The dome is press fitted into place over the prop shaft. So far every propeller I have done has used a 1/12 scale hub, I even sized up some B-17 propellers to fit a 1/15 scale diameter but used the 1/12 scale hub. I looked up the F4U-4 specs, 41 foot wingspan with a four blade 13-foot 2-inch diameter four blade propeller. At 1450mm wingspan, your Corsair is 1/8.61848 scale (1/8.62 when rounded). That comes out to a scale diameter of 18.333 inches. I have 3D drawings for a four blade Hamilton Standard propeller for the Corsair, as well as the three blade. I have been working with the three blade extensively lately, so I can transfer the modifications I have made while refining the three blade to the four blade, then scale them up to your size. If you are interested in printing a scale version of Corsair prop for your model, shoot me an email. Click on the coolmodelguy icon under the video and go to my home page. My email address is there. I would love to collaborate with you on a flying 3D printed propeller in this larger size, my airplanes are all too small for these types of experiments. Cheers!

@@coolmodelguy6304 Email sent! Thank you!

@@coolmodelguy6304 Also, where did you find information specifying 13'2" for the four blade propeller? I looked all over online, in reference books, and I didn't find anything to state that the 4 blade had a smaller diameter than the 3 blade, everything I found just gives 13'4" for the plane. I actually assumed that the 4-blade IS smaller, but could not find any documentation to show definitively that it is. So that's the number I used for my calculations. But, using your numbers (1/8.61848) and 13'4", it comes out to 18.5647582, so I was pretty close. Thanks for confirming that. that's a big propeller for ANY plane. I'll probably have to beef up the electronics to swing something that big on my F4U-4, even if it has a relatively shallow pitch. That's one of the many reasons why the "scale" propellers are always smaller than they should be. I'll have to do more research before I try it, but I'm definitely on board with doing some testing. Similar 3 and 4 blade in-scale props for my other smaller warbirds and so on would be worth testing as well. I'm interested to see how they fare with the props they should have vs the ones I actually fly with.

@@elduderinolebowski5411 - Here is the page where I found the specs for the four blade propeller: www.vought.org/products/html/f4u-4.html I like using exact numbers, but most people will never notice a fraction of an inch difference! I just finished making a scale diameter propeller for a 1/12 Canadian Air Force Hawker Hurricane Mk. XII. This was the Hurricane model using the Hamilton Standard propeller without a spinner, which I was completely unaware of until I was asked about making one for 3D printing. The modeler requested a 10 x 5 for a 1000kv motor, so I made what he requested and took it upon myself to make a scale diameter 11.62 x 3, both of which I will test fly on my F6F Hellcat as soon as weather permits. The motor is a 1000kv with the 36amp ESC that came with the model, I am curious to see if the model will handle the 30inch pitch propeller better than the 11 x 4-inch pitch used in this video. The CAF Hurricane propeller blades are the best and smoothest I have designed so far, I am very pleased with the outcome. Once again, I appreciate your advice on TPU and PETG filaments. After consulting with My Lady over our budget, I have decided to give these a try on my 3D printer. I have plenty of data now on the flight worthiness of PLA, so if I can get some improvement concerning prop strike survival and general handling, these 3D printed propellers could be greatly enhanced.

It is a video, with some pictures at the beginning showing the gear involved. No stop-action animation involved!

Thank you, I plan on it!

Thanks!

Yes, I started keeping a spray bottle of water close by and used it often. Nice observation!

​@@coolmodelguy6304thanks for the response. I hope that you post some videos on your craft.

@@shawnstatzer95 - If you can, please let me know how your project turns out, Thank you!

@@coolmodelguy6304 yes, I certainly will.

I was hoping to show you the photos of my Australian black opals that I cut, but I cannot post photos here. I told you that I would let you know. I am happy to have done four by hand. I got some bids on some more opals. I sure wish that I was experienced enough to cut Colombian emeralds. I bid on the ones already cut.

The rails are 8mm steel rod. The carriage rides on four LM8UU linear bearings (Amazon- uxcell SCS8UU Linear Ball Bearing Slide Block Units, 8mm Bore Dia, Pack of 4). A rubber band is stretched across the rails to keep the carriage from backing up too far (I did not want to cut the rods down, in case I needed them for something else), held in place by screw in hooks attached to the wood frame. A spring scale, what I know as a fish scale, attaches to the back of the carriage and the rear wood block on the frame.

Thank you, and I will check out your robots. Very interested!

I am rather surprised at the results, but this was also just a bench test for a very limited duration. Flight test are next and I need to rig some video to record, though I am more worried about hitting a rock and chipping a blade on takeoff than anything else. I like the idea of 3D printed EDF impellers, sounds interesting!

Thank you so much 👍

After the Gen-3 Los Angeles Class, had other projects that needed my attention. Then Covid, had to move when house owners decided to sell, workshop evaporated. Still working on getting a new shop space, but that is now a long haul project.

Hi Isaac, I don't have any of these swords for sale, however if you get in touch via email I will send you the STL files so you can get a local 3D print shop to make the parts for you. We are packing up our household to move shortly, so I will not be making anything for awhile. I do appreciate your interest! My email address is: [email protected]

@@coolmodelguy6304 ok cool ill see what i can do but also im kinda new to 3d printing i only done it once do i have to put the snowflakes on my myself or its on already

@@isaaclovesanime2446 - Hi Isaac, the snowflakes are applied by painting using stencils, after the sword's primary colors are painted on. The snowflake stencils are also 3D printed. If you would like to see the full making of a sword from beginning to end, join "Tumblr", (it is free to join) and look up "coolmodelguy" using their search bar. I have published build logs with hundreds of pictures of three different versions of the Mushi sword. There you can see all the steps I have taken to build these swords. I am currently working on a 4th version, one that I modified from the original to suit my own ideals. The new sword was influenced by my research of Chinese Jian swords and Japanese katana swords.

@@coolmodelguy6304 ok if i cant find your email my email is [email protected]

@@coolmodelguy6304 just a heads up since im going to be busy with school exams i might not be able to make the sword yet however if you move houses and settled in and make the sword again i will end up buying it plus i dont really trust myself making it if you want you can contact me i cant find your email sadly my email is [email protected]

Hi Roc - There are two reasons for having the screws fully extended before attaching: 1) Picture the silicon tubing washer on the screw. If that washer is just threaded on by a few turns, then as the screw is being tightened there is a lot of extra drag created by the silicone washer. Furthermore, the silicone washer will get chewed up as it "rolls" itself up the screw. 2) With the silicone washer already installed flush with the hatch flat, you can more easily feel if there is unwanted resistance building up against the screw as it goes into the hull. Building resistance to a screw going in, is a sure sign something is going wrong.

john doe - The bow planes on the full size sub are retractable, their outline is etched into the hull detail. There is a bow ballast tank for the model at the location of the bow planes, so when I designed the model the decision was made not to represent them in physical form. I did build a static set for one client, but they proved to be susceptible to breaking off.

When the sub is fully assembled with all required gear, tested, boxed and shipped, the price comes in at or slightly above $3500USD.

One of the highest priced subs I've seen.

This sub is a custom project and never was produced in kit form or in the high numbers that would bring the price down. Some of the Engel kits run in similar price ranges, without being fully assembled. However, there are a greater number of less expensive alternatives. The submarine forum of RCGroups.com has quite a lot if diverse information on different subs that are available. www.rcgroups.com/submarines-60/

Thank you. I found ScratchbuildwithJohn is a great KZfaq channel if you are looking at fully building your own sub.

Nice! Thank you Erik!!

Thank you! There is a more impressive version with a wireless on-off switch, LED lights and a special feature asked for by the new captain, its a five minute video and I hope well worth watching! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orGfmLufktCVeX0.html

Thank you!!!

coolmodelguy you still building ?

Yes I am, building a second 688i right now for a newly minted Captain who liked his 688i enough to want his father to have one also.