Nice video. What rack are you using for your printers? Thank you

That cutter is a hunk of junk! I got my K2 plus coming to use my partal rolls

Another excellent video. I may have a basic misunderstanding that would be nice if you could address. Why do you increase fill to 30% in art projects. My understanding is that the look of the outside of a print would be affected by number walls (thickness) of all walls, transparency of filament, and layer thickness. I was under impression fill setting only impacted strength of print not artistic look. I am pretty new to 3d printing and all settings so please forgive me if this seems too basic.

If you are not making your own filament its either a youtube get rich quick scam or its a hobby. Or both. There is no waste if you make your own filament.

I would definitely consider a laptop or low power desktop that you can remote into your upstairs rig so you don't have to run up and down stairs all the time.

I purchased one for a completely different reason. The AMS struggles with spools that barely have any filament left. I accumulate many small spools and instead of relying on the AMS to feed them correctly, I plan on combining the partials. (Usually the same color)

Nice to see the difference, thanks!

This content is amazing. Your packaging process is what I was really looking to see. I'm day 3 into 3d printing and just started learning auto cad. I'm completely obsessed with it and know I want to start a printing business over the winter since I work seasonal. Keep up the amazing content and the quality work!

Could you do a similar video using inkscape

Great videos Macy. Just be careful exploring with filaments, some need special ventilation! 😮

I’m so glad I came across your channel. You do a great job walking us thru your process . Most importantly I you keep it real and honest I’m positive the vendor appreciates your honest feedback, they may not like it but in the end it will help make the product better ❤

Hey @Macy Makes please share with me which CAD software you use.

On my ankermake m5c I can change filament on the fly (while printing) just by cutting old color and putting new one and pushing for several minutes.

Worth being aware, the filament swap of the AMS fails horribly when the filament has gone through the ams but still in the ptfe tubing - as it can’t be retracted. That’s around 1 meter of of filament wasted - and it creates a big problem with the affected print

it seems like a nice product and its not to expensive, but as long as they don't sell the little tubes separately and that they want you to buy a completely new unit to get more is completely insane business practice in my opinion, and yes i know you can order extra with the unit, but still, at some point you are gonna run out, and then you are gonna have to buy a new unit to get more, really hope they change that in the future

Hey Macy, next time if you want to secure your AMS unit to the riser or the riser to the printer you can use multi-polarity magnetic tape or A+B magnetic tape so that it doesn't have a super tight bond and you can always pull it off if needed or make adjustments to its placement

You're supposed to turn it on and let it reach temperature and then insert the filament. After you close the clamp, push the filaments gently together to make better splice. It will beep when it's ok to the the filament out. Keep it powered on if you have more than one splices to make. Also you can use the connector tube multiple times, just slide it on the filament to the next splice point.

can't you just turn off purge tower and poop?

you can just slide the tube along and reuse it

Hi there not all that clear what you mean if you are not used to the programs that you are using especially illustrator, but on the whole quite informative. 👍 Keep up the great content.

When i 1st started my 3D printing journey about 6 months ago i ordered allot of sample filament, so i have loads to join together to use on silly little fidget toys for my daughters as they love them. I pre-ordered one of these to try.

i cannot stand you, i didnt even watch your video. the day you said you were a small time print farm with all the machines you have blew me away. the ignorance of you. SMALL TIME. thats a full on business lady. im Small time

glad to see you are getting some recognition. Free stuff is always good to try. Keep up the great work.

Macy, you have to wait for the device to heat up to the desired temp before doing the filament bond. Having the filament in there while it's heating up probably caused the filament to soften more than necessary causing the kinked ends. And while it's in the device, you have to push each end of the filaments being joined towards the device to ensure a good bond. Not too much pressure, just enough to make sure things join properly.

Looks very similar to a fiber optic cable fuser. Love your content, by the way! Keep making!

Interesting take on the use of the filament connector device. I could only think of putting my old scraps together to make a roll of filament for prototyping. For that use case however I much prefer the 'continue on other slot when empty' feature of the AMS.

your patience in your testing was amazing, a really interesting and useful. Thanks.

It’s kinda cool lol .. Great Job Macy 👍

I'm wondering if you're experiencing heat creep with the way it kinks at each end. Might be a result of keeping the filament in there as it warms up.

Thanks for the information. It was a fun watch. I like that you filmed it straight from the box, so we at home could see the learning curve involved ❤

I see you are in NC. I thought I detected a fantastic accent. I live in Spain but I am from North Carolina and really enjoy listening to your videos.

Different manufacturer makes of filament use different profiles, that's why you can calibrate the filament profile to the filament. Where I see a problem is, when using the Filament Connector you are stuck with just one profile, that may not be suitable for all the different manufacturer makes of filaments you have connected together. You do not have this problem with the AMS.

You continue to make awesome content. At first I was like "What are you doing!?!??!" turning off the flushing when you split the model you printed with the AMS, but then I saw it print and the comment you made about making a gradient then made sense. That was very clever even if the printing pattern didn't work the way you wanted it to. I have seen a few reviews of this SUNLU dohicky, but yours was by far the most fun and most creative. Thank you!

cut yor ends to 45° and push together slightly when the filament heats up, make sure the 2 radii are going the same way. With roll ends, cut the first 5" off as it absorbs moisture into the end and becomes brittle.

MACY!!!!!!!!! I've seen that splicer advertised and some other YTers review it, but never looked at it that closely. It doesn't work like I thought. We have a tool at work for joining round rubber material into belts. Too hard to explain how it works here, but I thought that's what this was going to do....similar idea, just different (and the need for the little splicing tubes). Any way, it was fun watching you struggle trying to figure it out. You are absolutely adorable. LOL

When will someone come up with a device that lets you use the AMS and the back spool together so you can use 5 colours?

I hadn't considered using this tool for design (more of connecting scraps of the same color). It's an interesting approach but yeah, dealing with coiling filament bouncing around seems awful.

Put your filament in after it heats up. It’s in to long if it’s in there from o to temp. Also you don’t need to cut the ptfe tubes just slide them off.

Do you use commonly available fonts for your nameplates or do you create your own? Also, if you’re not going to use the Sunlu Filament Connector, maybe offer a giveaway once you reach some milestone, like 15k subs. Keep up the good work.

I LOVE UR VIDSSSSS YOUR AN INSPIRATIONNNN

FIRSTTTT

Thank you again for another informative video. I want to do some wall art and this will be helpful. I don't use Adobe Illustrator but Affinity Designer so need to learn that program better. I haven't been using TinkerCad for building multiple color prits but Fusion 360 and it can be kind of finicky (at least for what I know) about working with SVGs. Just discovering that it is possible to bring individual pieces into Bambu Studio and stack them in layers for color separation by layer (lots to learn). What I missed is when you export from TinkerCad about 7:20 in the video you mention time to export but I didn't hear what file type you are exporting and bringing in to Bambu Studio. You say you will start to export and next thing I see is you importing what you exported but I can't see what type of file it is. What type if file are you exporting from Tinker Cad. I guess my real interest is what type of file does Bambu Studio allow to be inported and stacked? Are they stls or something else?

Not sure if you will even see this but worth a shot. When printing, is your slicer forcing colour changes on each layer, so it's effectively printing all 3 colours from the print bed up to the top layer?

Could use rain gutter with some 3d printed shoot from poop shoot. Get it all to run out the right hand side to a bin straight away.

After watching your video decided to try and make a bookmark for kids at my church. Not anywhere as fancy - no hueforge. Can you tell me what your final thickness is. I started with 2mm thick and I think that is too much

I got black PLA CF with my Bambu, I didn't realize I needed to dry it first and that I needed to change out the print head. How did you know. you needed to change out your head and cutter etc, to print the PLA. This was the first time I hear that was required. Also you mentioned thatthe CArbon Fiber is almost dry. How did you know it was moist to start wit, didn't you just take it out of the box? Did you have something that told you it was moist? Sorry if you covered it in the video and I spaced out. Just send me to that point in the video if yo discussed these items in the video.

Another good video - interesting to see what the reprack system actually is and why you wanted it. Just joined your Patreon hope it grows for you to support your efforts.

I can google information but thought I would get your input, it also shows KZfaq you are having interaction. From one content creator to another. What advantages do the risers provide and why do you like them so well?

Another excellent video. Are the holiday decorations 3D printed or are they some other materials? My friend sent me a file that encases the end of cardboard spools with plastic runners. Have you printed these and used them? "he told me: polymaker spool adapters since polymaker filament comes on cardboard spools and they don't recommend using cardboard spools in the AMS"

i'm still watching. In a couple of your videos you have mentioned weight of filament and I understand the slicer tells you it will take x grams of a filament for a print. How do you know if you have 135 kg of filament (I think that was number you used). Do you have a way of measuring how much filament you have left on a spool or as a separate scroll of unspooled filament. Do you have a video that shows how you know how much you have? Do you already know the weight of an empty spool? Would like to make better use of my filament and not run out unexpectedly.