I love that idea. Even a properly mounted PVC pipe as a guide for the rod would probably work well, and yes - some sort of dust cover around the winch assembly would be helpful to keep it from seizing up!!

The thing is, even though we can remove and flip the striker, we cannot remove the ends of the striker to slide the tube onto it. It's permanently affixed to the plate. That would have been a great solution though!!!

The discs I have in mine are the ones I bought new in 2015, so they're about a decade out of date. There are tons of discs available on Ebay but most do not have a year update marking, so unfortunately without getting the set directly from Navtech, it's going to be hard to get reasonably updated discs.

I'm surprised these little things are as potent as they are... am used to big jump packs that weigh 10X as much!!

BTW the power locks no longer work either.

That usually means you're not using the correct plug & play harness adapter.

My guess is something is still not connected. Gotta go back and check every connector

@@CliffjumperCars thanks

No worries. Those were made by TEC Automobildesign in Germany, sadly a tuner that no longer exists. They used Opel Calibra side skirts, shortened to fit the Corrado, and then wrapped them in carbon fiber.

H3 bulbs typically don’t have a ground cable because the mounting ring on the housing acts as a ground connection. You can add one by soldering on a wire with the spade connector you may need to make it work, to swap bulbs.

@@CliffjumperCars Good, I thought I would have to buy a new one, but apparently it can be used, Thanks for answering.

Thanks!

You are correct, the maximum height those coilovers can get is 30mm lower than stock. That said, I've driven my R32 in the snow a couple of winters, it's 30mm lower than stock, and it's just fine in the snow.

@@CliffjumperCars and how can i make it atleast the same hight?

@@the_steko you would need to find a different set of coilovers that have a greater adjustment range. There are some that in fact allow lifting higher than stock height, in addition to lowering. I'd recommend trying to find people that do overlander and baja builds on their vehicles to find out which models of coilovers work for your purpose. You can also reach out directly to the larger suspension manufacturers to ask specifically what model they have which will do what you want it to do. Koni and Bilstien are very responsive via email; I can't speak to other manufacturers but if you're wanting to go with H&R, reach out to them.

@@CliffjumperCars thank you

Washing the coils regularly to get rid of grease, dust, dirt, tree sap, bugs, bird poop, all the normal stuff that accumulates on an outside unit is good preventative maintenance. Inside units in a restaurant usually benefit from an actual coil cleaning spray and agitation with a brush to clean it out, plus we treat the condensation pans with tablets to keep bacterial growth from taking place.

Have tried those and a wide variety of professionally available chemical solvents, when I was an HVAC technician. The deposits we have here in SoCal are resistant. I'm sure there's something out there that works, but none of the usual suspects that won't damage the delicate aluminum coils.

Thanks! Figured that out afterward :)

I have yet to find a chemical spray that works effectively on the sort of hard water calcium deposits we have in Southern California... it's nasty stuff that only comes off with physical interaction.

Happy to help!

It's different from car to car. For fully threaded coilovers, you should be able to use the entire threaded area of adjustment. For ones that use only a threaded perch like Ground Control or something similar where the perch is also the coil retainer, I would not recommend raising it beyond the point you have at least half the threads engaged... but you should talk to the manufacturer of those coilovers to get specifics.

Some coilovers use a set screw instead of a second locking ring to keep them in place, so in that case you would not need a second spanner, just the tool to unlock the one ring, and one spanner to adjust it. Otherwise you need the second spanner to open the two adjusting rings with counteractive force.

You can use the generic OBD2 code reader portion on any OBD2 car, but every manufacturer has proprietary factory level codes that require a specific code language reader to access. My GM specific reader will not see the factory codes on a Toyota, for example. And my VW/Audi reader will not see the codes on a GM.

Right??? I mean they're not the same as installing serious subs, but for stock speakers, they pump out some serious bass once you repair them!

Nice 👍 Would love to see that when it’s done!

@@CliffjumperCars Will post it here on youtube too!

Check this out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qd2eeKib3trSpJ8.html & start watching about 4:40 into the video. The Corrado transmission mount is a bit awkward to deal with but not too bad once you remove a bunch of small things so they're out of the way.

@@CliffjumperCars Lifesaver! Definitely cleared some things up and can now take a look at what might need to be moved in mine. Thanks!

@@nathanpelino9432 happy to help!

Great question! I have not dived into that yet. Will experiment and report back!

@@BlackSuburban no no no, he also waves his hands in the air!!! CRUCIAL to the process!!!!

Happy to help! Definitely made a notable difference in paddle accessibility & ease of use.

Hi there! We used a Duralast Gold (lifetime warranty) remanufactured OEM axle from Autozone. Based on the small amount of oil that escaped and the fact that we're going to be doing a differential oil change soon, we did not add any back in. Yes, those are the Power Stop brake rotors and pads on all four corners. I did a previous video installing them :) DO NOT go by a part number that someone else has used on those! There are two versions of the brakes on these SUVs, and you need to measure the brake pad to find out if they are the ones that use the 4.7" pads or the 5.3" pads. The rotors and pads and calipers are completely different and not interchangeable. Even the rotor hat offset is different on those. Measure yours first, then go with the Powerstop setup that matches.

Just passing along what I learned from others! Happy it helped.

Yes, I did do a low temp fan switch in addition to the low temp thermostat. I did not go with the lowest temperature range on either of those, which, if I recall correctly is 160°. I believe I went with the 175/180° setup on both.

@@CliffjumperCars that's good, I did the same but it was so long ago I need to do a refresh. Recently my car overheated after a drive cause the fans weren't coming on, and the only way they come on now is if I run the ac. Have you had a similar issue before?

@@billbradley6380 Yep. Fan switch was the culprit in my case. Fans worked with AC on, but only came on high speed with the fan switch - the low setting had stopped working. Easy to test with a multimeter, though it's not that accessible from up top. While you're in there you can test for signal from the fan control unit. That's another thing notorious for going bad.

@@CliffjumperCars I'm hoping that's all it is, plus it's such a cheap part anyway. When you checked the fan control unit (or module I think?), were you checking for power as well as a certain reading?

@@billbradley6380 Just looking for power at the terminals for the fans.

I know, you can buy two Bugatti Veyrons with all the savings ;) Yes, they are the Audi TT pin style wiper arms on the Corrado.

@@CliffjumperCars A Bugatti Veyron would be nice wouldn’t it? Especially 2 of them, but in all reality If I had to pick between the 2 I’d rather have 2 Corrado VR6”s than 2 Bugatti Veyrons Any given day! 😂🤣thank you for the confirmation, this video is now that much more exciting to watch because of those Audi MK1 TT wiper arms🥳🎉

@@CliffjumperCars Can you please post the part numbers for the driver side only for the MK1 Audi TT pin style wiper arms? I believe they use 2 driver-side wiper arms for the Audi TT wipers on the Corrado right?

@@Eurospec73 The part # is 8N1 955 407E. Here's one place you can get the Audi TT Mk1 aero wiper arms (you need two of the same part): parts.cartervw.com/p/Volkswagen__/WIPER-ARM/67821702/8N1955407E.html Here's the part# for the Valeo 20" blades that fit these arms: 900206B - you can search this part number on Amazon or various parts sites. Or you can search for a 2010 BMW X5 passenger side blade.

@@CliffjumperCars Wow thank you so much I really appreciate that. I’ll probably buy these this weekend.

'73 has battery in engine bay. I'd love to have the battery in the trunk but sadly do not.

Brake fault light. It doubles as the e-brake light, but it comes on when there's an issue with the brake system. Separate from the ABS light, though that can get triggered too, with both of them coming on with some problems.

@@CliffjumperCars awesome! Thanks

... & something I forgot about for waaaay too long. Happy to spread the good word!

Can''t delete anything due to emissions testing we have where we live. Will look at the wastegate. N75 is new OEM. Diverter has been replaced with a Forge.

Happy to help!

That one's a Wedgy... you can find it here: www.gizmatictech.com/wedgy

Cool cool thanks 🙏🏼

Appreciate it!

Always a good idea to disconnect the battery ground when doing electrical work around ECU's, TCU's, or other control units. Too easy to fry an EPROM chip in them with a power surge that's not regulated otherwise.

I'd recommend going through the factory key fob programming steps. I've never seen hazard lights flash when the car is locked from the inside button. Only when locked from the fob.

@@CliffjumperCars how to do i put key to lock outside but it locks no hazard