@@19crofty86 it's possible yes/ maybe. But it depends on the type of LED driver 🤔. Are the led letters mains voltage? Or 5v 12v?

@@rcwilli1991 the difference is zbmini is not Matter-enabled. With "matter", it can be controlled locally and "cloud free", by many devices like amazon alexa and Google home. You don't need to rely on the Chinese app and worry about cloud services going down.

I was actually thinking that the fuse in the plug should be of a lower rating something like 5 to 10A. It's strange that philips opted for a 13 Amp plug fuse🤔. I had some old 5A "rewireable fuse wire", and I could of soldered that across the pcb fuse. But I don't want to encourage that practice. I did actually test the motor first, but I forgot to film it😂.

Yes, a lower current fuse in the plug would make sense. Filming and editing everything must be a lot of work so thank you for doing it.

Yes the test tweezers are great for SMD component testing it does capacitors aswell😉. It was very reasonably priced, and pretty accurate too. I think I got mine on Ebay a couple of years back. It's called "ms8910 handheld smart smd tester" . Aliexpress and amazon did them too. I guess MOVs have their advantages, but I don't think it's necessary for a simple brush DC motor circuit, with just a bridge rectifier. It's great for very sensitive/ critical equipment and SMPSs. I watched a video of a newer Philips juicer repair, and now there's no MOVs on the pcb. So I guess the design is economizing/ cheaping out, and just a single speed aswell. So only the bridge rectifier and EMI LC-filter , that's it.

@@hunakaka I'm not sure🤔. I would have to measure it with a oscilloscope. But I think there will be some discrepancy between different light switches. I guess the time delay would have to be with in a small range.

Yes, absolutely. It will not trigger the RCD😉👍. I have RCDs/RCBOs in my house. There is no current "leaking to Earth", and the the load is balanced between L and N.

@@performancefiore6004 some motors will work, like the the "universal-motor" (the type with brushes). BUT induction motors don't work!(Some of them have a capacitor and need proper AC to work) Most fan motors are induction, so won't work. Also your diodes need to be big enough to handle the motor current.

@@Ni5ei good idea 💡

You're welcome

@@michaelstolman536 I got the idea from the "remote control geyser relays" Eskom made us all install in the 90s, in South Africa. The purpose of the relay/contactor was the drop the load from the grid if there was a power failure, and gradually stagger the geysers from turning on. It's very difficult to turn the power back on if all the geysers have cooled down, and all the thermostats are clicked on. This is almost a dead short for the electrical grid. That was back in the day when Eskom was run by smart sensible people.😉👍.

@@michaelstolman536 it's some type of Chinese WAGO clone. But wago don't actually make a 3 inline version like that. I find them quite useful. I got them from ebay.

Mine too! 😢

@@2002TiiDriver they are sometimes made with crappy metal alloys, and just plated to look like brass. So corrosion is a problem. You can occasionally scratch the contact area back to clean metal.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel It definitely wasn't corosion. As far as I could tell it was because the only thing that appeared to be transferring the current was the 5/16 inch bolt securing the device, ie, crappy design.

@@mattpanex I live in the UK and Portugal some times. I haven't had much spare time to build these things. It's not really worth the time and effort, for the little money I can change from it. I have some updates I want to make to my design. So maybe I will make a few prototypes available for people to try.

​@@tomriesz2869 you can add a inline fuse if you want, it's not a bad idea. In my previous circuit the "fusible resistor" was in the main current path for that very reason. But I have chosen bigger "oversized diodes", so the if there is a short-circuit like you described, the circuit breaker in the house should safely trip. Adding a additional fuse will take up precious space, so in order to keep things compact I decided to leave it out, and rely on the building circuit protection(in the UK it's normally 5Amp or 10Amp circuit breaker). In my older circuit, people were having trouble with the fusible resistor blowing, with bigger connected loads. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/paiCaLJknpfRj5c.html

​@@MyProjectBoxChannel It's a smart circuit design and a well put together video. My main concern is that, as you are probably well aware, it wouldn't meet the wiring code & device standards in many countries. One must ask the question, what was the intent of the standards and what are the consequences of not meeting them? If someone else was to work on this circuit without realising the changes, they could quite easily cause a short circuit.

​@@tomriesz2869 I have been thinking of adding a 3A small solderable fuse, on the lamp side of the circuit. On the next circuit update😉. If you think about it space saving is less of a concern at the light fixture, than at the light switch box, were things can get pretty cramped. I don't think any home made "prototype circuit" is ever going to pass any sort of electrical certification, but that is what electronics enthusiasts do, we build our own electronic gadgets!🤔

Do you use isopropyl alcohol, or ethanol alcohol. It needs to be isopropyl.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel yes isopropyl alcohol..with indonesia rosin grinding in to powder, with 50/50 ratio

Yes, You can definitely use a 3A fuse, inline with the L, if you like. But the resistor has two jobs, it acts as a inrush current limiter, for when the capacitor initially charges up, and secondly as a fuse(If the capacitor failed). It should still work fine without the resistor, but the lifespan is increased, by adding a resistor. It puts less stress on the capacitor.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel Great thank you for such a prompt response! Because I couldn’t easily find a fusible resistor where I am. I guess an 5-10ohm thermistor would also work instead of the fusible resistor?

@@hoanglonguk yes a NTC thermistor is even better, but not good for turning on and off repeatedly in a short time, because they need time to cool down( like when used for inrush limiting in a SMPS). You can also use a "normal resistor" inline with a fuse. 1 or 2 W , 5-10 ohm. The circuit should work fine without the resistor or fuse, if you want to test it out first.

@@MyProjectBoxChannel ah good point wrt to cool down! I’ll give the inline resistor and fuse a go. Thanks for all your help and pointers much appreciated!

@@MyProjectBoxChannel FYI the circuit seems to works many thanks again for all your help! Circuit seems to also work fine them on the aqara relay and switches. Though in some rooms with the Thorn Amy down lights, it seems they don’t play nice with the half wave circuit at all. Since the lights down the chain seem to flicker quite badly. Do you have any suggestion to remedy this in the main bypass circuit? Otherwise I think there will be too many points of failures if I go and put a capacitor on every light 🥲

Yes, you do require a zigbee hub. Zigbee is ultra low power, so it's often used for battery operated devices. WiFi is very power hungry, and not easy to power from batteries.

Yes you are right😉👍, but this video is more about how to use/make a bridge rectifier (AC to "smooth" DC). The battery charging, is just a example of a connected load.🤔😉

Try it! I think it will work😉👍I don't think it's that critical 🤔

@@Bigmalc0 Yes the dimming effect is load dependent, so multiple led lights in parallel will require a larger capacitor. You could have a high/Low switch, for full brightness and dimmed mode. I'm glad it worked for you😉👍. Thanks for sharing your findings with this type of LED light fixture. It's good to know that it's is possible to dim this type of (non-dimmable) ceiling light, with a capacitor

@@MyProjectBoxChannel I like the idea of having two different light levels, but in the daughter's case, it is not possible to contain it in the switch housing, I've tried. Can you get a remote switch a bit like the garage door where one press turns the light on, second press for half brightness, third press turn off, On another idea, do you know if the Sonoff R3, is in Half Brightness mode and you were to turn the lights off at the switch, when you turn it back on, will the Sonoff R3 remember the last setting?

​@@Bigmalc0​Some time ago, I used a sonoff dual, with two outputs, to do the high/low modes. It was the older one but the newer one will be better. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e7t7otNns5rHiGQ.html

A Capacitors behaviour is different for AC current. With DC current it will change up, "kind of like a battery. With AC, it's constantly charging and discharging as the polarity reverses 50/60 times a second. This resulted in it passing current, kind of like a resistor. It's call impedance (a special type of AC resistance) so a capacitor will pass AC current, but with DC it will draw current when charging, and the current will stop when fully charged.😉👍 The the power in your house is alternating current AC, but a battery is direct current DC.

I am currently working on a new version, but I just don't have the spare time to produce them for people to try out, at the moment. I will put a link in the description if they became available.

It won't work with the older type florescent lighting, the type with magnetic ballasts. It will however work with the newer type, the type with electronic ballasts. It's probably a good idea to use bigger diodes and bigger fusible resistor. Or even better use my newer circuit. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o-Ceq5Op1Kycc58.html

2W is better.😉👍 I'm constantly trying to improve my circuits, and I made a more robust/tougher version, in this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o-Ceq5Op1Kycc58.html

@@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks mate! One silly doubt: If the switch operates not one but two or more lamps, I guess ALL lamps MUST have the diode/condenser circuit conduit? what happens if a lamp doesn't have it, blows up, blows the fuse, doesn't light up?

@@thedaffyduck you can use just one diode capacitor feeding more than one light, but it needs to be at the first light supplied from the switch. It is better to have a capacitor/diodes on every light, you will have less chance of making a mistake, and blow something up.

You are kinda stating the obvious. For a permanent solution it's always better to change the plug to a proper UK one. But that is not really the point of this video. I'm just saying if you plugged 🔌 it into a fused extention cord, and NOT directly into the wall socket outlet, it is not as dangerous as people seem to think. Because the extention plug has a fuse to limit the current from the 32AMP ring main.

Yes, and that way it's fused via the extension lead plug😉👍

Yes it is possible, but you would need to experiment with different capacitors, to try and determine the correct value, for the fan speed you want. Sometimes you can get the opposite effect, and the fan runs more powerful. This happens when you get a resonant effect between capacitor and inductor. (Tank circuit)

Thank you sir I will try.

No. As far as I know it's only the Basic-R4 that has magic switch mode😥

It's not a tutorial, it's more of a demonstration of how a full bridge rectifier operates. Each application will have different value components. The capacitor is not necessarily changing a lead-acid battery.

Yes and yes, that's the point of it😉👍

YES! It is possible to use one capacitor for multiple LED bulbs, but the bulbs need to be identical, and you will require a bigger value capacitor. The value of the capacitor depends on the wattage of the bulbs. So you would have to experiment. I would try 1uF or 2uF capacitor, and if the bulbs are too bright, then you should use a lower value, maybe 0.47uf