240

I have only run it with the filter on. I saw some testing a few years ago that showed this basic air filter is ok to about 350 hp.

Unfortunately parts like that are outside of my budget.

@@engine_therapy I'd believe Speedmaster79 have elcheapo ford roller cams ($217.45 USD), and there budget 347 stroker crank, rods and pistons.. i don't recommend you use their rings though just use the intake manifold you've got.. And $20-$50 bucks maximum each scrap metal price for a the door stop GT-40 heads should cover it. Use $100 dollar LS beehive springs and new valve locks and retainers Surely you can't find a swap meet 650 double pumper for $50-$100 bucks??? If you can't afford that then I'd question why? You own a dyno??

The port work should be interesting with the small cam, it probably wont do much but it will be fun to try. I cant really run this dyno too much right now so I cant take on more for the time being.

The valves on E6 heads are extremely shrouded so I would work on that also. You could port the heads out to the water jackets but if the air can't get around the valves it still won't flow air. David Vizard has shown that opening up the combustion chamber to increase air around the valves is worth way more power than the loss of compression ratio that comes with the territory. FYI, flat top pistons with no valve relieves (1988 LTD short block) with milled 289 heads and an E-cam will have the valves making contact with the pistons. I found this out with clay and checker springs. So be careful if you ever change heads and get away from the E6 heads which have the valves sunk way into the heads compared to traditional sbf heads.

Totally agree about the valve shrouding. Thanks for the info on the piston to valve clearance.

Is the timing getting delayed something the TFI module does when its not connected to an ECM? I will have to check on that next time I have it running. Thanks

Ok thanks!

​@engine_therapy the combustion chamber shape truly dictates needed timing. Piston top design has minimal influence on timing. Read the plugs and use dyno to find timing needed. My lifetime experience with stock ford heads 38 degrees was very very common.😊

I didnt notice a stumble. I looked through the data from the last 3 runs and with the 2bbl, 4bbl(4160), and 4bbl(4150) and in that 1700 rpm area the air fuel was lean, about 16.6:1 while I was rolling into the throttle and applying the load. It probably had to do with slowly opening the throttle which makes the accelerator pump less effective, but its probably more to do with the power valve not being opened yet. After 2000 rpm or so the air fuel came back down. Hope that helps.

Sure, LIST-9965-1 3119

Lots of good feeback there. I havent taken the degree wheel off it yet, I can check the lsa in the next few days. Remember, those cam durations were measured at the valve and not the tappet. The tappet duration is probably lower. Which end of the cam is the stamping on? I agree about the springs. They probably have way over 100000 miles on them. Do you know of a good low cost replacement? I have looked around but didnt see any that would use the locks and retainers I have. Thanks

@@engine_therapy Any engravings or markings should be on the end of the cam opposite of the distributor gear. Factory cams and some aftermarket cams are actually measured at what is called SAE duration. IIRC, that is .006" lift at the valve...or .004" lift at the tappet on a sbc or any engine with a 1.5 rocker. Fords with a 1.6 ratio rocker would be measured at .00375" tappet lift. Aftermarket cams...many but not all use .006" tappet lift as their "advertised" duration for hydraulic cams. Isky uses weird numbers like .007" intake/.010" exhaust at the tappet, Crane used typically (but not always) .0045" tappet lift. This is why "advertised" duration is almost meaningless when comparing cams of different manufacturers. On the ford E7TE and many other heads, they use different installed heights on the intake and exhaust. Trick Flow makes a good relatively low cost kit with springs, retainers, locks, seals and a little installed height checking tool. They used to be around $179 last time I bought one (several years ago). They are made specifically for hydraulic roller cams for these and similar SBF heads. If you plan on revving the engine they are a good investment. If you aren't going to beat on it, then stock replacement springs for a 5.0HO are fine. I would replace the locks...they are considered a disposable item and are cheap.

@@engine_therapy I ran your numbers through the Summit cam timing calculator. I am coming up with a 107.25 or 107.5 lsa. This plus your valve lift tells me that this is the low po 5.0 hydraulic roller cam. But your .050 duration numbers don't match that cam, so I dunno

@@camd266 Ok, Thanks again!!

I agree, its about maximizing fun/$.

The 289 is a great engine.

Hello, Thank you for the feedback. I did some looking around and it looks like you are correct. I guess I was always more interested in what the valve was doing. Measuring at the tappet is the way to compare to catalogue numbers. I should mention it in the description and say something about it in (part 5).

I agree, they are a great engine.

Thank you!!

I appreciate it.

Solid lifters would eliminate the bleed down completely. I kept an eye on the bleed down on the indicator and there was very little, maybe .001" at most.

That is something I can try going forward.

Thanks for the feedback. I am working on a video about the cam swap and valve springs now.

Thank you, Full length headers are on the way.

Thanks for the feedback. The #64 jet was the smallest in my kit and I have a secondary metering block conversion ordered.

Yes! That is what my experience with a holley 1850. Had to go down to a #58 with a Edelbrock performer. I also had the rear float bowl lower. Adjust the rear float just dribbling out as normal then back it off a 1/4 turn. I think I remember there being different secondary metering plates and I used the smallest one. Also, what power valve are you using? I f you said I missed it. If has the usual #10 try a #8 or #12. Not sure if those are sized in odd numbers.

​@@-werksmith2078 I'd have make a video but The Holley 600cfm four barrel model, #1850 is an emission carburettor and no good for a performance application. While I could myself could modify it too work on just about anything I wouldn't waste my time with one. It is standard practice too check, adjust the float level as Nessasary before you do any tuning and even after each time the float bowl is removed is advisable. Power valve is chosen too suit application, this will vary depending on manual or automatic, and size of cam, gear ratio, converter stall speed type of driving etc.. I have a collection of Holley 4160 secondary metering plates. My recommendation is the same as previous response, post to the fella who made the video And do yourself a favour and change too the Holley secondary metering block conversion and then jet according too what the Engine wants.

I think I will take some time to look into the springs and retainers.

That is interesting information about the Stealth intake. Do you think the Edelbrock would be a better choice on a 331/347 ? 10 ft-lbs less than spec sounds like a good rule.

​​@@engine_therapy 💯 go RPM Airgap on 331/347. They will want airflow. Also most all aftermarket heads as well will prefer the RPM Airgap. That's what dyno told us over last 30 years. That intake even outperforms the regular performer manifold on low end torque. For us, we use the performer and the stealth intake if hood clearance is a problem.

Sounds good. I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks

Yes, very similar to the Performer RPM. I think mid rise would be an accurate description.

@@engine_therapy Doing a 289 build soon for my 68 Cougar. I'm torn between the Mid rise Edelbrock RPM (or copy) and the Shelby / Cobra reproduction for the 289/302. Thanks for the content!

Sounds like a great project.

Thanks. I agree, its a good place to start.

I tried using the lightest secondary spring I had. I ended up ordering a rear metering block conversion kit (4160 to 4150) so in the future I can adjust the rear.

The cam is stock. I am working on a video about that now. Adding an open carb spacer would have been interesting. Maybe I can work it in to a future video. Thanks

They are stock Mustang HO 5.0 headers. I will be testing a set of long tube headers in the future.

The dyno is a DIY project I have been working on for a few years. The absorber was made at home with a hobby grade lathe and mill.

@@engine_therapy Very cool!

Its not the kind with a shop vac and flow meter. Its something I came up with. It has a box with 6 vacuum motors in it (not shown in the video) and it uses a simple venturi made from pvc pipe. You take the pressure drop through the venturi measured with the monometer and calculate the flow. The calibration plates are important too. Its kind of simple/crude but it works ok.

I think on paper the added cfm would add power to the 2bbl intake. On the other hand I think using a typical 2bbl-4bbl adapter, upside down would create a lot of turbulance and end up causing problems and yeilding a loss. Its possible if a very tall adapter was used that would resemble a funnel from the 4bbl to 2bbl intake that it could yeild a gain.

Glad it was of some help.