We insulate the perimeter walls when we encapsulate crawl spaces so fiberglass floor insulation is not needed.

Nope. If the foundation vents, walls, and rim joists are insulated, you do not need floor insulation.

Nope. We don’t recommend that. We recommend sealing all foundation vents when performing a full crawl space encapsulation.

Ah ok. They mentioned it was for radon and soil gases. But the code they mentioned I looked up and def didn't say exhaust fan was required. Thanks

Thanks for the complement! Unfortunately, no recommendations for your area. Good luck!

Radon gas isn’t an issue in the Southeast VA or northeast NC regions so we’re not experts on Radon, but most experts seem to agree that crawl space encapsulation acts as a passive radon reduction solution.

I got an estimate to encapsulate my crawl space for $12,000.

HAHA who do you think wrote the script? A Master is someone with over 10,000 hours or 10 years of specialty experience. I’ve far exceeded both those experience markers specializing in fixing crawl spaces & foundations. “Master” may be a more fitting title than “expert” 👍🏼

Good question. If we just completed the project, the humidity in the air & moisture content in the wood would be very similar to the day before the encapsulation was installed. Once the crawl space is encapsulated & closed up, the dehumidifier can begin removing moisture from the air, which will in turn, reduce moisture content in the wood. For a wet crawl space, it can take up to 2-4 weeks before the humidity is lowered to a healthy humidity and the wood moisture is down to a dry healthy level. Once achieved, the dehumidifiier just runs to maintain the healthy humidity & that keeps the wood moisture content low.

It depends on what you're trying to achieve, what's being supported, and the size of the pipe wrench. Keep in mind; Floors are light... walls are heavy. We like 24" pipe wrenches. For stabilization, you just want everything making solid contact and to start to feel some tension when tightening the jack. For lift, it's very situational.

@@BayCrawlSpace thank you

I’m the President and do all hiring. I don’t recall interviewing with you but thanks for your interest. I’m not sure to what you’re referring. This video is about crawl space encapsulation, not joist sisters. We warranty 100% of our work so if there’s a job done improperly, let us know and we will repair again for free.

When he's laying beside the dehumidifier you can see a joist in the background that has a huge notch in it which has been sisstered with a newer joist and he also does talk about sistering joists

Thanks! I would think it would do the job but probably be overkill for the application and extra time consuming to seam all the joints.

@@BayCrawlSpace thanks for your fast reply, I have the material I honestly I want to do it myself, I'm a roofer and I can do all the seams and everything else's it's almost like doing a roof, I was just asking if it was safe to use in/on a crawlspace thank you....

If the load bearing wall is being supported mid-span on the sagging floor joists, I would definitely recommend going with a new beam directly under the wall with adjustable jacks. Sistering the sagging joists would be very difficult since the sag implies the boards are bowed and you would attempt to sister them with a straight board.

Great question. I think it would depend on the humidity in the crawl space. I would recommend researching local companies that are familiar with the best practices in Alaska.

@@BayCrawlSpace is it a bad idea to install several layers of r tech foam board directly against the floor between the joists instead of fiberglass or would that trap moisture against the floor?

@@philipdove1705 The challenge I see with that approach is keeping the foam board in place without gluing or mechanically fastening it. I'm not sure if fiberglass performs poorly in your local conditions to know if the alternative approach would be better. At BAY, we foam board insulate the walls and vents which works great for us locally. But with crawl spaces, if you seal them, a dehumidifier is necessary.

@@BayCrawlSpace the issue I'm having with fiberglass is we have 24" spaces between the 4×6 joists and all the r19 fiberglass is sagging in the middle . I was thinking by cutting foam to tightly fit it might keep the floor warmer. I just dont know if it will cause rot issues by moisture resting between the floor and the top of the foam.

That depends! If the interior piers have settled, lift is often times achievable with permanent stabilization using a strong footing design... If the exterior foundation has settled, we recommend against lifting the perimeter footing. Push piers often settle from the lifted position. This is why it is a good idea to stabilize a sinking foundation ASAP.

There are several styles and methods to install footings. A simple footing that will usually suffice for a crawl space support is a 24” x 24” x 12” deep hole filled with poured concrete.

Amy ... I think they missed the point of your post with the rocky floor, which I'd guess you mean as an uneven place to work with. In that case you need to build small wooden forms so you have a level and solid area to build your new support pillar. I would also suggest those be anchored to the rock by drilling into the stone about 3-4 inches and cutting short sections of steel rebar material to fit the holes, which should stick up about 4 inches into the cement you will pour in each form. I would have maybe 4 of these pins in each pad. After the cement has dried for a week or so you can add cement block or jack posts on top of these new pads. The size of the pads will be at least a foot square and maybe 20 inches if you are using block. I'd figure on around 4 inches high for the pads so you can make them out of 2x4 wood. Make sure the top of each pad is level. You can fill in any gaps around the bottom of the wood with crumpled paper or seal it with duct tape so the concrete doesn't leak out while wet.

Unfortunately, some houses are harder to encapsulate. The entire space must be accessible and the perimeter stem walls must be able to be sealed. Installing a dehumidifier is not advised unless you can seal the vents and walls PLUS install a professional vapor barrier with complete ground coverage.

A properly sized foundation footing must be installed first.