How can you do a video as a "cheapest way to do conversion kit " and not show where did you buy the parts? or the link? what are you tryin to show? just intallation?

Hi i bought the hc05 and i first started and tried to put on at mode red and blue light came on and started blinking slow. as i saw on video u only had a red light on. but i also had a blue one. is that okay? and also it could detect the com port. but as soon as i press connect it says couldnt go on at mode. but it was already blinking slow. whats wrong?

Can I go this on a 2000 civic lx

So you're saying that you dont need the bushings that are the EXACT ones forbyour model? I have a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country, and NO ONE has the bushings for that model so I bought an assortment pack. Is that ok?

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if i already have a d16y7 wiring harness could i use that because i have a base model crx which is dpfi and i want to skip as much wiring as possible

I'm curious to see the center spokes more closely. 1. compare the brushed finish 2. the older fakes didn't have filleted edges to match the genuine

steering wheel link ?

Reported this dangerous to even put this video out death by wheel

Good video good choice death over life FOOL even has a genuine and changed to fake proper FOOL and recommends for others this video should be delete KZfaq over safety concerns for others people could die if listen to you (be accountable )

That’s very interesting 👍.

it wont last. its going to unwrap in a hot day.

Considering purchasing, thanks! This was helpful.

Is that the OJ glove?

Cuz you couldn't get it out in one piece but you put it back in one piece ... Didn't show that part..

Why didn't tell us the part number

thank you!!!

So sick !!!

Ive already removed j12 usdm ecu but it says its still inplace detect

Why not use the swi-cp2 from pac its much easier than using rcas and all what you did?

Is HTS the only software to view data in? Is there any android/ios app that uses such a bluetooth dongle to read data? I basically want to use a phone/tablet to view realtime data, i know of hondash but im tuned in chrome gold and they dont support it.

Hello, excellent video, where can I buy that conversion kit? 

No grit gaurd

why you swap the injector wire? what convertion you do?

Every thing is made in China.As least it works,however.

From personal experience, the best possible upgrade you can do is a 96-00 CTR transmission. Bell housing should mount up directly to the B18 block. It will dramatically change your track times, far more so than any head work.

Looks like you need a b16 head, b16a trans short gears

Great job welcome back

Hi what must buy hc05 slave or master? What is the difference if hc06 there is button

Thanks for making life easier. I kinda figured I'd have to take off that panel, but I'd of probably broken those connectors off before figuring out that they twist off. Thanks much!

Where did you get them, model number???

The difference will be in the high rpm

Way to many commercials

Thanks for the vid, very informative and to the point. Two thumbs up

Love the hatchback

you made a mistake and corrected but did not note

The led lamp pls on amzone?

Hello I have an extra socketed ECU that is Boost by gear ready and S300 ready. Can I get the BMulator instead? I've had a bad experience with Hondata's customer service, and want to part ways so I'd like to have options. What all do I need to buy? The BMulator, any other accessories from BMtune?

how did you get your front bumper to fit so well with the metal strip? like there's no space between the two

Where sell the valve cover?

Yo whats up, i just got my hks exhaust last week. I plan on putting on my Ef sedan with a b16 swap. I have 2.5" collector header and i want to run a stock cat as well( im in California) but i cant seem to find a 2.5" to 2" exhaust adapter piece. Are you running stock headers?

I have a 2010 Infiniti FX35 with a similar problem and I have been doing extensive research. I am guessing the Nissan Altima is using the same type of drain lines as the FX35. What happens is the drain lines run down A-pillar, then behind the dash and out through the firewall. The drain lines terminate at a drain plug in the firewall, and the water drains into the engine compartment. There is a design flaw with the drain plugs because there is a baffle inside these plugs to prevent dirt and debris from going back into the lines. This baffle becomes clogged, then the water leaks and the drain plug seals fails, then water leaks into the cabin. It can happen to both driver and passenger side. It's a $13 part, but a $1500 repair because you must remove the dash to get to it. There are other videos online showing how it's done. The problem is that because it's a design flaw, it will continue to happen. Some people have modified the drain plug and removed the baffle and used a metal tube to extend the drain. Other people have bypassed this drain plug and rerouted the lines into existing AC drains, or drilled holes in floorboard and terminated the lines there. Either way it happens to most Nissan and Infinitis that have this design and the manufacturer should recall this. The problem is that not only does it soak your car, but it can ruin electronics. There are tons of horror stories of bad electrical problems from ruined ECMs and other electronic devices. I am at the stage where I am researching this issue. My car is in a bad way and the floors and carpets are soaked. I removed the passenger carpet and there were puddles under in areas of the floor board. I am not paying money to have a mechanic do this, and I really don't know if I have the skills or tools to take apart my car to replace these plugs. My FX35 is only worth about $5000 and I'm thinking of selling it to Carmax and buying a new car.

i did exactly how u told in the video and yet i recieve debugs like cant connect to ecu, com port cant be opened, cached com port and so on.. please help me.. i have been stuck here forever and my car is not even running right i am just trying to fig it out please.. i am using hts 2.15 in windows 11

Great work on getting that issue fixed with the helicoil. I would recommend next time you have this issue with bolt that are that big and require that much torque that you use a Time-Sert since it's more of a sleeve than a coil. Overall keep up the great work on engine and hatch.

They're LEDs... They are going to flicker as they are not the right resistance for that circuit. It was designed for a normal filament bulb which has more resistance across them. To properly do LEDs, you would have to install a resister into the circuit so that the total resistance of the LED and resister are that of what the OE bulb is.

I made the mistake of installing a Yonaka on my 94 Integra GSR. That HKS sounds closer to stock which is what I'm looking for in an exhaust.

What did you torque everything down to in the end?

Amazing video on your cleaning process. Wish you would have shown some of the head cleaning to see how you dealt with some of the stubborn stains and exhaust ports but overall thank you for sharing on your cleaning.

You should check out "deep creep" by seafoam. I have tried about every penetrant out there and once I discovered deep creep I haven't used anything else. The stuff is a miracle worker. I have had exhaust bolts that wouldn't budge with a breaker bar and my whole body weight hanging on it. Sprayed with deep creep and let it sit 5-10 minutes and was able to break it loose with just a ratchet.