No check engine light! mhd takes care of that!

Solely based on those stats, it sounds inline with how it is here atleast on the east coast. The verts typically trend under the regular coupe though

I don’t believe it’s much more work. Best way is to just take a picture of your stock wheel and how everything is configured before you start disconnecting wires and then just reference it as you move everything over

@@UnworthyMotors found your channel and it has been great. Do you still recommend getting the cts intake? Looking for more turbo sound

@@ironhand22 thank you so much! That really means a lot! And yes it’s great for sound. You won’t see any performance out of these being they are still just open box intakes but the sound is 10x better. Front mount intakes is the way I’d go if you want a performance benefit(very marginal)

I did a video on it, and the stud kit is already linked in the description

@@UnworthyMotors thanks daddy

Tuning software simply changes the internal settings that the DME and onboard computers have set to operate the motor at highest efficiency, when you add parts that create better cooling or allow better airflow through the exhaust, you have to program the car to know how to utilize those extra benefits that in return make the car perform better. There is a stage 1, stage 2 and stage 2+ tune with MHD that are basically just different levels of changes. In regards to the upgrades, go to my page, go to playlists, and then review the video i did on full bolt on upgrades.

I believe it’s marginal boost psi differences. Not much at all

It’s not necessary? I’m on 18’s

Doesn’t seem to be an issue on G8X

@@UnworthyMotorsG8x is 2020 and newer right now?

All good! No tuning needed or anything. As long as you still have your MAF sensor you are good

Nope! They have been great!

@@UnworthyMotors Cool I just ordered them I’ll update you in about a week how the install goes, are you on instagram by chance?

@@ThePatrickBateman69 sounds good! I hope all goes well! Yes! Under the same name

That’s actually a good deal overall!

To each their own i guess!

Nope! All accounted for

A D1S. They are linked in the description i believe. Some models are running different bulbs, so just check your owners manual for your type

Hey, 100% i would say that’s too high. Base, higher mileage, and 2 accidents would have that in the low 30’s in my eyes. Clean title base models are currently going for anywhere between 36-43k ish, with around 50k miles. Every market is different so i can only speak to mine, but doesn’t hurt to try and get as much as possible! Can always come down on the price

It is soooo heavy 😂 def a permanent shop jack, it does not go far lol

I’m sure they are very similar. Assuming they are both the same open box style, they are really just piping and a filter. The only ones that would provide difference is a front mount pulling in more cold air which will perform better. This is a simple part and reliability isn’t really a topic. Can’t speak to fitment on ssr

I have strayed away from anti lag solely because using rolling anti lag puts extra wear on the car and for my purpose it’s not needed as i don’t do any racing. But 100% rolling anti lag will 100% improve roll racing because you are allowing the turbo to build boost in advance. Anti lag removes normal turbo lag

The MHD anti lag is only 15 psi maximum and have minimal wear on the engine since it’s so low compared to standard alone ECU anti lag at 28-30 psi on stock snails 🐌

@@josefinkjellsson7051 good detailed info! I was more so just saying it’s “some” wear, but not alot.

@@UnworthyMotors been running MHD stg 2 for two years at 560/780 with no issues. Best time 100-200kph is 7.5 on E30, you should try that blend, the car gets more aggressive 😀 and bear in mind mine is a convertible at 1900kg! Even the tuner at MHD was mighty impressed by that number when I sent him the dragy result😂 But, and the biggest 🍑 is you have to get xHP stage 3 and sort the issue with jolting rear end while shifting and higher stall speed while launching/tightenings the clutch IF you don’t already have sorted that out. With xHP you can launch with break boost which is impossible on stock TCU since it stalls at 1200rpm. I break boost to 2200 rpm and best time 0-100kmh is 3.8 with two males in the car. Best time 0-200kmh is 12 seconds and best ET 1/4mile is 11.59🤙🏻 BTW love the color on yours and the CS hood😍

@@josefinkjellsson7051 thank you!! I really appreciate it! Never needed XHP since mines i manual! I never got into the E blends but i know they def wake up the car!

Block it?

Agreed

Yeah, i would be hesitant to do it with ppf, you’d have to be super easy, but ultimately, you only needed it like slightly warmer than it is in the summer sun. You could prolly sit it in the summer sun and get it out honestly. So I’d say like summer sun and if it still is stuck, hit with a heat gun super lightly

@@UnworthyMotors yeah actually those were my thoughts exactly. I tried to change them out maybe a month or two ago and literally could not get them out and I thought I was going to crease my fender side with the amount of pressure i was applying. Was cold outside too. I figured waiting till summer with the heat might help. Ill just have to wait until then. Thanks though for your input and reply.

@@DHislife Ofcourse! Happy to help! Yeah i would wait until summer, put it out in the sun for a few hours and retry

Yoooo i just saw that!

Thank you!! I couldn’t agree more!

Yup!

🤙🏼🤙🏼

Sounds like the wire taps are not making a connection.

If it has a clear coat on it

@@UnworthyMotors I don’t have gloss carbon fiber I have dry carbon fiber like the weaves are yanking the hair off the microfiber towel. It’s hard to clean.

@@petermuniz9296 no, you can’t ceramic coat that. Ceramic coat is only able to be applied to clear coat

@@UnworthyMotors how long does the ceramic last?

@@petermuniz9296 usually 2-3 years

If you do all the supporting upgrades listed in the build, than yeah. Very reliable

I changed the charge pipe,j pipe,cattless downpipe, What else do I need to change

@@nimumma you will need additional cooling. I made a playlist called “build series” that’s everything i would suggest to run smoothly, safe, and reliable. The crankhub is optional as it’s a preventative measure but i would suggest it.

Thank you!

Thank you! I really appreciate it! I couldn’t agree with you more! These are very plug and play simple and reliable street cars at this level too, especially for the price!

I appreciate it! Glad i was able to help!

Ended up ordering ECS/Schwaben long low profile - pretty much identical to sunex - I’m sure it’s just re-branded but made in same factory! But I liked the colors and the included pad better

@@LT350R nice! I liked that one too

I’m glad it was able to help! That was my goal!

Any added protection is good protection!

I’m glad i could help!!

Ou can get it many places but it’s the high kick PSM spoiler

Thanks. Looks great with the diffuser and side skirts!

@@jas0njas0ff thank you!

Yes

@@UnworthyMotors this looks awesome !!

@@Vqrdict thank you!

Yup! Still doing just fine! No complaints!

Those are all my buddies and we all caravanned in together. So yeah, that’s some of the crew. There is still more that didn’t make it!

Thank you!

I didn’t. It was to explain how much it would suck if i did. I put that in the first comment

@@UnworthyMotors so you don’t want to answer?

@@TimChump lol, whatever you say! The first line in the video says “imagine if this was true” 😂

All depends on your power numbers. We have seen 1000+Hp running 2 pins with no issues. But i also know 4 holes in your crank is a lot of drilling and i just don’t feel it’s safer drilling that much into your crank