Gravity! Yup, it's the compression of the weight of the truck that keeps them in. When fully extended suspension-wise, the shocks stop the suspension from opening to the point where the springs fall out. The springs always have some pre-load on them that keeps them in place. Simple and works!

That is the Metal-tech 4x4 Stronghold winch mount. We make them right here, in-house in the USA. metaltech4x4.com/bronco-6g-stronghold-winch-mount/

Happy we could be there when you needed it. I will share a great story with our team. We will keep making more right here in the US!

If you are comfortable taking tires on and off and have a few basic tools, it's not a hard install to do following along with our video. We also have written instructions on our website. www.metaltech4x4.com and here to provide any support if you need it. We designed, manufacturer and support all our parts right in house here in the US.

The "TEMS 20AMP" fuse from the inside fuse box probably needs to be pulled if you pulled the relay/fuse from under the hood. Written guide on our website here: metaltech4x4.com/content/GX470-GX460-4Runner%20Rear%20Coil%20Conversion%20Kit%20V3%20(1).pdf:

Metal-tech 4x4 bumpers, sliders and skids. 100% stock tie rods, I just carried a spare but never needed it. Drove the Bonroco hard, but it was also not my first-time rock crawling. That does help. I'm not a big fan of removing a simple fail point, like the stock tierods. Whenever we "beef up" one thing, we just move the fail point to a new location. Stock tie rods are low-cost, easy to carry, and easily swapped out on the trail. Bend a sock tie rod = save the rack. It's a fuse with a lesson about what caused it to bend. (Driver feedback on what they were doing. Usually, it is something with some speed or dropping off a ledge with the steering kicked over hard.) The racks only started having issues when people put the splints, braces, and overbuilt tie rods on. This, in turn, started a whole new industry, leading to "we need stronger racks." But honestly, the stock tie rod with a few spares = is simple and works. If we were to "beef" up the steering system, I would go 100% OEM Ford with the Hoss 3.0 rack/rods. Seen quotes for $3k installed and programmed by dealers w/warranty and maintaining your OEM warranty.

@@Metaltech4x4 Wow, thank you for the clarity on that, it makes a lot of sense! If you were to upgrade to the Hoss 3.0 rack and rods, get the Ford performance tierods, do you think 37s would be ideal then?

@@husker_nation Absolutly. We run 37's now on he stock OG smaller tie rods. That is what we ran the Rubicon with. If one was bending OE tie rod ends a lot or just wanted the best setup, then yes, the stock Ford Hoss 3.0 is the way to go. The demand for these kits has been so high Ford has upped the availability of the parts. As of right now, the Hoss 3.0 rack and tierods are only about $1k; that other $2k is their labor to put it in and flash the computer to teach it the bigger stepper motor for the power assist.

The top of the bolt should be the plating it should have been made with to protect it from rust. If it's questionable, hit it with some paint.

Lazy is doing nothing at all. But to do it right, you need to do full panel removal, acid dip, neutralization process, soda blast, primer, paint, blend the area to color match, and top coat. Or one can also use the nail polish trick that, in this case, two years later, is still on the truck. It comes down to the available time the installer has to put into it. But laziness is doing nothing and, unfortunately, is the most common.

Sorry we only to Toyota, Lexus and the new Ford Bronco. I am sure there are some great Chevy specialist shops out there. Best of luck!

We have the 2.5" Radflo Remote Res. Coilovers on all 4 corners. As a stocking Radflo Dealer we have these Bronco 6G Kits in stock as of the time of this posting. (Email us!) For the front winch mount... That is ours! That is the about to be released next week for orders on our website. Its the Metal Tech 4x4 Stronghold winch mount for the 6G Broncos. Keep an eye on our social as we will have an announcement on them!

The compressor can stay where it's at; no need to remove it once the air system is disabled. It is located up in the driver's side off the frame, tucked just outside the wheel well in the quarter panel. No real gain in removing it. It is not a usable space and does not create any issues when not in use. And no, it's not strong enough to air tires up.

Of course, replacing the body mounts is always an option. However, not everyone has the time or the resources (i.e., time) to do so. The quick spacer option is just a tool in the toolbox as a solution.

The cables are routed through one of those two holes, I do not recall. We have been running winch cables through the front apron since 2006 on the FJCs, so yes, definitely, one of the spots can accommodate them! We do always recommend using a quality loom to protect the cables as they are hot with a direct mount to the battery, so we never want them to have the jackets direct to metal and short out over time.

im looking for an answer too

Let us know and we will put a set aside!

This video shows the airbag conversion and stock-height springs going in. But the install is exactly the same for a lift kit that comes with 2" lift springs.

Agreed, stock uppers are tiny. We build replacementsmetaltech4x4.com/metal-tech-fj-cruiser-4runner-rear-upper-links/

Looks like no direct photos of the mount we made for it. It was an L shaped bracket that just used self tapper screws into the side of the inner fender. Nothing fancy! Good luck with your install. Hope our video helped some.

You are correct the wrench used is a ViseGrip brand chain/strap wrench that was used.

i have a feeling they’re 285,70r17 but i want to be sure too

@planeaddict117 Thank you for your help. Let's see if they ever reply and assure us about the specs.

The truck in the video is not a shop truck but a customers. Sorry we dont have the specific specs. However I think @briancaguioa is correct in the 285-70R 17 range.

@@Metaltech4x4 copy. Thank you boss.

Tire size is 285/75/17, you can see it @1:36

I’m having the same issue with my 18 Silverado. It’s impossible to take the spring off now

The through shaft on most coilovers at the bottom for the Ford coilovers is a two-part piece, as it goes into the sealed bearing at the base of the coilover. You disassemble it so the through shaft comes out of the bearing and off the Coilover. They just thread together in the lower bearing, making the through shaft look like one piece. Now, the coilover can be disassembled as normal.

Here is a link to them.metaltech4x4.com/metal-tech-fj-cruiser-4runner-extended-rear-brake-lines/

The spring rate is the amount of force to compress it. The higher the rate the more force needed to compress it.

Depends on the application. On the back of a FJ Cruiser, yes. More coils will be a softer spring usualy and a tall spring is fine as long as the solid "stack" height of the spring compressed 100% (coils touching) is less than the bottom out point of the suspension range of travel. If its more, then you bottom out your travel by the spring compressing 100%, that will be a very shocking, jarring bottom out!