He cites multiple studies throughout the full interview, and also on his website

Yeah I’m coming across as a troll. I’ll listen to full podcast, but really when someone uses the word “proven” and then says “I looked at some research” I wanna see the data. Did not see a whole lot of links on his site or in the free sample download of his book. Lots of valuable rehab information. But no holy grail of research proving that doing some intervention will prevent injury or at what rate.

Not trolly at all- healthy skepticism is always good and welcomed. Based on our conversation, the paper doesn’t put that warm-up protocol up as some bulletproof definitive way to prevent all injuries… But it had pretty compelling indicators that a progressive loading strategy like that did the best job of preventing finger injuries. More nuance than a short KZfaq video or title can capture, but the main ideas are sound, at least from what he was relaying, but definitely check it out and report back!

Climbing dynamically is quite efficient when done properly. Chris Sharma has used dynamic climbing to its highest level- during a time in his younger years when static climbing was thought to be the only way. Coordination jumps just take that concept further, in a more specialized way for comps.

Better answer then Tom’s

I too was wondering where the link was

Oh jeez, sorry I forgot to add it. Will update it now -- thanks for letting me know! And thanks for watching :)

From what I understand, 100 moves on gradually increasing difficulty is exactly what works per the paper he cited.

Coach here. What it could look like, practically. At the gym, with routes ; 15m routes have around 30 moves. Choose routes that are sustained, that you know. One route "easy", say 6a if you're climbing 7b max. Reste for 5-8min. Then another route "harder", say 6b+/6c. That will put you around 60-70 moves. Sustained routes, in most gyms, are easier in the beginning and gets harder towards the top achieving the goal. At the gym, with boulders ; One boulder usually have around 8 moves. Choose boulders that look really straightforward. Start about 4 "colors" of difficulty under your max, or even at the very beginning of the scale. If it's graded on a whole scale (V scale for example), start about 6 grades under your max (climbing at V8, start on V1 or V2). Climb one boulder, rest for about 1/2min. Get to the next grade. If it's color graded, climb about two boulders of each color. 6 to 7 boulders should get you warmed-up on around 50 moves or so. You should flash all the boulders, excepted maybe for the last two of your warm-up. If they doesn't go second go, change boulder. At the crag ; If there are routes that you know and are well-suited for warm-up, use them (well suited : no hard crux, sustained for the grade, no hard move). You can warm up on one route, and then have a warm up go in your project if you want to preserve skin (warm up go : not trying to send. Skip the crux if needed, especially if located during the first half of the route. Take rests at each draw, or each two draws). If there's not route, portable hangboard. Gradually increase the load by using what's available. gradually increase hang duration to reach minimal pump.

Look up 'Maillard reactions.' There are a bunch of substances produced by baking and grilling that taste AWESOME. BTW: I started climbing in the 90s when sport climbing ruled and there were lots of very unhappy climbers training way too hard and starving themselves. The rise of bouldering has been a change for the better IMHO, because it encourages being strong rather than just light.

Aidan Roberts might’ve just done it

@@thestruggleclimbingshow with what?

Absolutely. And fascinating. It illustrates how a large part of it is mindset and humans are still capable of much more.

I think maybe most people listen to the full version of the podcasts in audio form from the website (or spotifyand whatnot)

This is a clip from his podcast. It's basically a teaser for the full thing. But some stuff is behind a paywall.

@@plastikmaiden Thank you!!

11k is about the number of dedicated climbers on KZfaq

I appreciate the kind words and support! Full interviews are available wherever you get podcasts, and I’m starting to release some full interviews on YT as well. One with Adam Ondra and one with Tommy Caldwell so far. I share full uncut videos of all interviews on my Patreon as well. Working hard to put out good stuff for us Climbers, and am super grateful for the support! Please share with all your climbing friends :-)

Completely correct. The progress is exponential due to people figuring out how to train better lol

I think the main reason is the use of indoors reproductions of hard boulders. It allows many more tries than you could give on very similar movements and builds up the muscle memory so that once they go to Finland or wherever they are actually able to send the project in one or two weeks

@@Blattealkiller ryuichi murai had zero attempts on the burden replica and still almost sent it within a week

Pretty sure Rungne got permission, because I've seen multiple channels use the footage.

Magnus recently did videos with Pewdiepie so I’m sure there was permission Also the purpose of advertisement is to spread the brand… If you are a climber on the internet you probably already know about Rugne, and Magnus… however Pewdiepie has a totally different and unique pull of people that are most likely brand new to the brand… honestly it’s a genius advertising move to use him ;)

Yah my guy...guess you don't know who owns rugne (hint it is the same guy in that clip who created the video with Pew, who owns the right to it, and also sponsors this video)

-rep, you have no rizz and no fanum tax tokens

😂😂😂

Def better than you do

Trained 2 V17 climbers, what's your resume?

Because he trains the best climbers in the world...

we got climbing brainrot

@@neterchance4708 is that on skibidi¿

Is that on skibidi vro¿

Tom Randall is the rizzler.

Reporter you for spam weird old dude using slang

@@slidewineder3953 dude, what the anti-sigma

Only the person who’s done the problem feels the beauty of it, I do bouldering because I want to achieve the highest grade possible in my bouldering lifetime, the fun of doing the problems comes with the achievement you feel from working or sending the problem

This whole "Let's not care at all about grades" argument is weird. Why don't people go out and find the most gorgeous 4+s and just climb those all day? Because, obviously, a big part of the reason for doing any sport is challenge. The "beauty" of a lot of problems and routes come from the fact that they are challenging

I only like climbs that have level 10 gyatt

I have to disagree with you. While one of my favorite things in climbing is seeing progression, sending does not equal enjoying the movement on a problem. I often enjoy working the moves more than sending.

The point is why progression happens. It is not like people were not trying hard 5 or 10 years ago...