This was one of my early leads back in the day.

Didn't show the first move ?

Brings back fantastic memories of climbing this in the 90s , awesome stance towards the end from memory before the final pitch.

Oh WOW! That brings back some memories! I was taken up this route in about 1993 by a couple of lads from the RAF Valley Mountain Rescue Team. Absolute classic route, especially that foot traverse, followed by the hand traverse! Lovely route!

This route is amazing, did it in 2011, not very hard, but runout!! 👍

The last pitch of this climb is something else. Especially if you get "Elvis legs" like I do. I brute forced most of it due to upper body strength. Terrible technique, but I don't really care.

I still have the May 1985 edition of Climber which did a round-up of "Moelwyn Classics". It describes Slack as the best Severe on the cliff with testing cracks on the final pitch.

Lol hexes

Imagine my disappointment after travelling to California only to be told that I had gone to the wrong place if I wanted to experience this kind of danger. Have some drugs instead, is all they could suggest. Either that or wait until the DOJ screws up Trump's prosecution and the USA becomes a fascist dictatorship.

It's 2023, and he's still trying to place that hex!

I did it hopefully not as nervous 🙈

Looks like a typical tremadog grading ie total sandbag. Love the place though.

Thanks for this - good memories of this in 1971! Couldn't comment on your Tennis Shoe vid as comments turned off, but it was my first climb with the UoBirmingham climbing club on a freezing day in October, in bendy boots!

It s Diffwys Clogwyn y Garnedd . Stop putting foreign names on Eryri

It s Gwter Fawr and nearby Pant y Lluwchfa not Great Gully.Stop putting foreign names on Eryri or you are not welcome

Nice video, thanks. Led it in 1962, with pebbles for protection. Teufel's crack was hairy.. Sedlmeyer died on the Eiger I think the same year as Munich's FA.

Thank you Perry :) I have been watching many of your vids, I climbed many of your climbs that I did back in the early 90's You always seem to have had less trouble than I did!! Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

What is that 1200ft, looks like an amazing climb.

Are you self belaying? I'm just curious how your doing it

climbed this back in the 70's. stuck a peg hammer in just at the top of the pod and threaded a sling round it. We'd just drunk a few pints of homemade wine. I ran up it and then tried right eliminate. Sobered up and failed.

I led Stygian wall and Acheron in 1963, on a wet, windy and threatening weekend. My second fell, I pulled off a loose block (two tons I estimate, thank god we were the only ones on the rock.) and thought at the time Cowarch deserves a gardening weekend by a dedicated band of brothers. I see little has changed in the meantime. But hell, when it's clean and dry it will takes its place among the Welsh greats.

I thought at first Y Garn by Llyn Ogwen,then realised it's the one by Nantle ridge. Since I only do scramble G1/2 this is out of my league :) Thanks for posting though

This was my first VS lead. I had just bought a pair of EB Super Grattons from Joe Brown's and they were a revelation after my clumpy boots! (1976)

Thanks for sharing 👍

This isn’t an HVS sandbag, this is the HVS sandbag Don Willans fell off…

I did this, great 7 pitch climb, on 40m rope.

I remember it feeling a bit sketch for a VS, but finding juggy holds on what looked a bit blank from a few feet below.

Three pitons placed I believe, removed the next day by Menlove Edwards. Teufel and Sedlmayr were in Wales on a "good will" visit but when British climbers protested the use of pitons on sacred Welsh rock the German's reply was once they had invaded (!) they'd place as many pitons as they wanted. The use of pitons in the UK was considered to be cheating and one comment was "a man who'd place a piton would shoot a fox!" Appropriately Teufel is German for 'Devil', Sedlmayr was to perish in an early attempt on the Eiger, dying of exposure at the "Death Bivouac."

Helmet cam footage of climbing is always awful and this is no exception. I’m glad you enjoyed the route but there’s no need to inflict this eye straining stuff on the world!

Fancy sharing the beta for the descent? I can only find rumors of either a "sketchy descent on grass ledges" or a "perfect tunnel through to serengeti"!

Estos dos no llegarán muy lejos. Sólo con ver la cuerda entre las piernas, hace temblar.

Brings back some memories of my first climbing trip to north wales 37 years ago did this in boots, was a great weekend doing routes out of hard rock on our first trip south

Did this in the 70s. Crap gear, crap boots, great fun. I miss it.

Wicked video. Thanks for sharing.

This and Safety Net are a lovely brace of E1's from GG

6.00 Hell of a good sling placement.

Did this in the late 60's with Pete Livesey, primitive protection and EB's. I did the first crux by the roof quickly but got terrified with the last few moves that I couldn't protect and was wet.

Free climbing at the beginning with a young person like that is completely irresponsible. Could slip and fall very easy on the rocks. So dangerous.

Did this route with my mate Jim around 1990, lovely route it is. Nice to see that the rock is still pretty nice, not polished like some of the more popular climbs.

Pre placed gear??? It's not a sport climb, mate

Not very elegant but Bold, determended and couragious, well done !

You're really trusting that crumbly slate, damn

the hand traverse gets everyone, its like Diff/VD max all the way then boom "oooh what's this move?" haha Great video, last time I climbed it must have been 10 years ago, beautiful rock!

Really cool video. Great job on the filming and editing, I think this is a fantastic style. I climbed this route a couple of weeks ago as my first VS

Neat.

Nicely done

Seconded this a couple of years ago (my mates turn at the sharp end). Found it decent but a bit of a 1 move wonder.

Get some chalk on it son, anything above 6a needs chalk these days or a ladder. FFS its a VS!!!!!!

Nice video mate! I go up here bouldering quite often as I live pretty close! Love the climb on the arête on the talll stone