My rear spring is wound all the way to the top is that a bit much it’s how it came to me wen got bike

Gday mate whats your wait in kgs

Thanks for this, just trying to get my head around what's happening - first time doing it. Am I right in thinking that for the rear brake, you didn't change/remove all of the fluid - you just replaced some of the old fluid with some new fluid, but it was mostly just removing air? I guess you can just keep doing this, unless at some point you suspect the fluid in there is bad and needs to be fully drained and replaced?

Really appreciate this video. Thanks for the effort

Static sag is not relevant. Unless your bike goes around town without you on it. You want to have the suspension allow enough up and down travel when you are on it. That is how a suspension works. All gas pressure shocks will try and be at full extension. The weight compressing the shock is the relevant part of getting travel adjusted right. Once you have shock travel sorted then adjust the shock valving to your taste.

Compression and rebound was well explained.

I don't get this. You had the same amount of static sag before and after the adjustment. We clearly saw 10mm of movement before and maybe 12-13mm after the adjustment. Practically the same.

Best entro sound ever for a motorcycle video!

Hello, should we mix antifreeze with water or should we put it pure?

Did you mean for your thumbnail to be of the RS660?

Not,

You really should suck the old fluid out of the reservoirs and film them with fresh fluid before you bleed. That gets the old fluid out of the lines much faster. You're pushing a lot of old fluid out and, worse, mixing new fluid with old fluid as your helper tops of the master cylinders. Not a good idea. Always suck almost all of the old fluid out of the master cylinders and refill with fresh fluid before you bleed the brakes. Also, you should only have to bleed the master cylinders if you replaced them (the master cylinders) or, for some reason you ran them completely dry and pumped air into them. Lastly, I may be wrong but it seems to me that when you bleed ABS, you should have the brake bleeders open. Otherwise, how can you push old fluid out of the ABS system? The fluid has nowhere to go. After bleeding ABS, you have to bleed the brakes again the normal way, of course.

Thanks for the video! Welldone! Just as a note from a fellow Street Triple owner: When draining the oil, have the bike on the side stand as per the manual. This makes the drain plug the lowest point on the bike. Allows the oil to drain faster, and helps drain more oil overall.

Lovely to see my son,Glenn ride.❤

If the rider sag is proper and you have no static sag left you’re spring is too soft for you. And while I don’t want to say anything about Dave moss his experience I find him a very commercial bloke that doesn’t give away a lot in his free videos. For example Paul Thede from Racetech, he even wrote a book about all the components and info there is to know about suspension. There’s actually a lot more people than just him that are brilliant in suspension stuff. But just getting sag right is only the basics, in fact everyone should do this. Even better shops should do this when you buy a new bike. Sag off is geometry off and a bad steering bike, or at least worse than it could be. I’m kind of blessed I raced a lot of years motocross and had a few people around me teaching me a lot about this subject, it translates really well to road and race bikes. One thing I do miss on a lot of road bikes is a manual that states the rider and static sag values, as they differ a bit from bike to bike, as said it’s fine tuning the suspension to set it to the meant geometry. If you buy a motocross bike sag values are in your manual.

I hope you re checked rider sag after getting static sag set. You probably have more rider sag now than 35mm. Most bikes come under sprung for riders over 185 pounds (add 20 pounds for riding gear, helmet etc.) Also sag should be measured not in a stand, as it will be different when not. Also shoot for the same rider sag and damping front and rear, so the bike goes down evenly and returns at both ends the same. To get proper sag often you need to change the springs front and rear if on the heavy side to get the balance between comfort and handling.

Great vid 👍, bought an sold a few bikes but I'll never sell my FZ1000S, she's 18 years young, it's a keeper ❤🤘

SHAKE out da foam crumbs!

Great vid, and wow... lovely bike 😮

Didn’t this party make headlines with their own hailing and praising a real nazi war criminal?? Idiots.

To remove the oid oil filter with a channel lock is ok but no to tight the new one. It will put a dent on it.

Ive noticed the earpeace hifi pro ones, I wondered if they might improve the music from my Cardo much more than these while riding. Or would I be wasting my money. Its a shame btw they is no connecting cord between them for security.

Good morning how does 675 vs 765 compare? are the differences very large?

говори по русскому

Thanks you too 😀🖕

The best bike I've owned to date..

Doing mine tomorrow it’s like a bucking bronco!!! Cheers

I know the feeling 😂

I've now got to mow the fcuking lawn! 😂

Hello mate I know it's been a while since this video was uploaded (great review btw I really enjoyed it) I'm looking at getting the 2021 model to get to work and back as I'm 16 and not wanting to catch the bus the route is mainly quiet country roads will a 50cc be able to handle country roads for 20mins+

you can’t just say hopefully it’ll be nicer. You have to ride it and give us some results.

Do you need to add the extra foam layer?

Just ordered these

What's the point in riding a bike if it doesn't sound good. I'd be revving it to

Pig 🐖 is a stupid liar

smart dude, keeping his mouth shut. Cops got ya, just stay quiet

Sound so stupid

American cops make no sense lol. I feel bad for y’all! Ours are problematic too but not typically in this odd power hungry sense. I don’t think ours are any better either 🤣

Great rideout to wheels motorcycles

Put a cable tie on the chrome stansion so it'll let you know just how much fork travel you have for your weight and your type of riding, it'll let you know when & where the fork bottoms out & that way you'll be able to tell if the settings that you've dialled in from your owner manual are correct for your. Weight. I.e with your leathers on, which will give you a better rider sag reading.

Should the front and rear static sag be the same?

Good content bro

Awesome bikes

You should also start the bike with the cap off of the radiator in order to purge any air from your cooling system

I have one of them we should go out riding on are 50cc kisbee I live on Wellingborough

White lattice stuff looks like air mesh

whats a click, it looks like a quarter turn to me. nice vid mate.

Just the ticket, I thought I might get the dealer to do this, but now I'll definitely do it myself thank you very much - an excellent little video!

Hello, do you have an Instagram account I would be able to message you on?

I have a kisbee and a 125, there is no comparison power wise as the 125 is more like a car BUT I have to say that the Kisbee has its place, it is fun to ride, and as a cyclist I would tend to use routes that I would cycle along, it isn't as much fun in heavy traffic on roads that are over 30mph but very nimble on quiet country lanes or in town. It seems that many motorcyclists are not cyclists so don't appreciate that a moped is substantially more powerful than a push bike (unless you are an olympic athlete). The compact nature of the 50cc Kisbee and storage for shopping are real plus points. In my opinion you shouldn't compare a moped to a motorbike as they are a different beasts. In practice the journey time for 10 to 20 mile trips isn't necessarily much longer than a car or a motorbike in my experience. Great video!