Thanks for your comment!! It sounds like you already have a really good lens for street photography; I know that the 23 f/2 is a favorite for many street shooters. My recommendation would be to add a telephoto for distant/detail shots. Good options would be the 50 f/2 which is an excellent and extremely compact short tele with good close focus capabilities, the 90 f/2, which is an extremely fast and relatively compact mid range tele, or the 70-300, which would give you a very extended range. Regarding the AF-C Custom settings, it would depend on the light. As long as you have enough light for the camera to acquire and track focus, then these settings will come into play. That's when a fast lens would be preferable, since they can grab focus in lower light situations. And yes, I still offer my Photography on the Brain course here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/photography-on-the-brain-essentials

Nicholas, my experience with AF on the X-T5 has been nothing sort of stellar. It's performed exceptionally well across many different subject types, and I've been impressed with how well it handles fast action. There have been no situations where it has let me down. I haven't tried any of the recent Nikons; I'm sure they are fantastic, but I don't feel any desire to compare. As I said, the X-T5 does the job for me, and that's what matters. What kinds of problems have you noticed and with what kids of subjects?

Thanks for your comment, I'm glad you enjoyed this! I can hep you with WB shift, what would you like to know?

@@DanBaileyPhoto I’ve experimented with white balance color shift and different film sims, but it’s a bit hard to know which color compliment each other also taking account the subtle colors in the scene. Lots of variables and subtle options. Also, making radical color changes linking them to different moods. It would be nice to have an in depth conversation about this very interesting topic.

@@DanBaileyPhoto Also, I saw this perfect blue color used in Chanels perfume Bleu, when i was in Paris. I tried to replicate it on my fuji xpro3 using monochrome film sim with color shift option but was difficult to get an exact match. A very special blue tint indeed, with a touch of black and maybe purple.

@@DanBaileyPhoto Also you have the DR settings in addition to the color chrome effects to take into consideration. Takes lots of practice to find your own unique style, but that’s also what i love about my fuji; the color science

I would very much like to engage in an in-depth discussion with you about this topic!

Thanks for your comment. This sounds like a very challenging exposure situation, even for a high performance X-Trans sensor. Modern digital cameras are not perfect, and a white shirt in bright, high contrast sun can indeed be too much contrast. In this kind of situation, I think you would want to shoot RAW in order to preserve the most detail from the sensor. Hope that helps.

Thanks, glad you liked it! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?

@@DanBaileyPhoto I use various models like the X-T3 or X-Pro2, but I still have my X-T1 as well. I enjoy photographing landscapes, macros, or people.

Hey Chris, thanks for your comment. What kinds of struggles are you facing? Are there particular aspects of this lens you're having trouble with, or are confused about? Also, what kinds of scenes are you shooting?

@@DanBaileyPhoto hello thank you for your answer. Im struggling to have a clear image they are all blurry even with the tripod. I try several settings but still. Very frustrating

That is frustrating indeed. Can you give me a few more details about what you're trying to photograph in these situations? i.e., subject matter and camera settings.

@@DanBaileyPhoto mostly its birds. I change my settings. I put Iso on auto. With the 150-600mm im on F8 at 1000s or 500s it dépends on the light. If you dont lind i can send the setting that i put on the camera i took photo of it. If you have time of course. But in anyway thank you fir your respons

Sure, but keep in mind that photographing birds with any lens is one of the most challenging things you can do with a camera. It takes years or practice and experience to nail difficult shots, and even with scenes that don't seem difficult, it can be really hard to get consistently sharp photos. You're dealing with the complexities of AF, light, shutter speed, very fast action across the frame, and in some cases, towards/away from the camera, and the magnification issues that a telephoto lens adds to the equation. Even 1,000/sec might not be fast enough to capture and freeze a bird that's flying quickly. Looking at some of my recent bird images, I'm using shutter speeds up to 1/4000 sec.

Thanks for your comment! Glad it helped! Have you tried shooting music videos before?

William, the X-E4 is an excellent little camera. Very small and compact, and highly capable. It has the same sensor, processor and most of the same settings as the X-T4, so it's a very powerful creative machine, but in a rangefinder style, like the X-Pro series. One really nice feature is the tilting LCD screen, which flips all the way up to 180 degrees and helps you frame low/odd angle subjects, as well as selfies and self-video. Are you currently a Fuji shooter?

@@DanBaileyPhoto yes I’m trading the x100 v for the xe4 as I’m hoping for more versatility with lens options. Do you have recommendations for a lens that would handle landscape and general use? I also bought your Fuji x book and find incredibly helpful as I continue to learn. So thank you again.

William, thanks for buying my book. 👍 Regarding lenses, that's kind of a tricky question, since we all have different compositional preferences. If you like the fixed 23mm lens on your X100V, but want wider, then I can recommend the XF16mm f/2.8. You can see my review here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nL6CkpljntKlfZc.html If you want more of a "normal" focal length, the XF35mm f/2 is a great choice. See my review of this lens here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hZynabWblt7LkYk.html For a great all-around telephoto lens, the XF70-300 would be an excellent choice. I'm assuming that you're wanting at least two lenses, but either way, the 70-300 would definitely be my recommendation for a long lens, and then it's just a matter if you want wide, middle, which could mean a wide-middle zoom, like the 16-50, plus the long lens. I don't know... what are your thoughts?

@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you Dan. That’s very helpful. I never considered the 16mm but have been looking at the 35. Also was looking at the 18 to 55. As I’m retired and on a tighter budget. It’s why I am letting go of the x100v. Can’t justify two at this point. Your landscape photography is inspiring and I have always enjoyed mountain biking,hiking, and outdoor photography. So I will look at your review of the 16mm. Thank you again for your support and comments.

@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan, if I could ask one more question. I do have the opportunity to get a xt30ii. I’m wondering your thoughts on this camera as opposed to the xe4? Again the use would be for landscape and general photography. At this time it would be my only camera. Again thank you for your support. The process can feel overwhelming.

Awesome!!! Maybe by the time you read this reply, you'll already have it in your hands, Andy! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?

@@DanBaileyPhoto I got it. I fell in love with the 135mm full frame with my canon 5d mk4. This didn’t disappoint. I’m using an xh2 since it’s got ibis and I really haven’t had any desire past the xtrans3 sensor. I am a concert photographer in the music scene so I use it for concerts or portraits for press kits.

Awesome! I hope you get a lot of use out of it!

Yes - Here's how they work: The lens has four rubberized Fn buttons on the outer barrel of the lens, and a SET button, and a switch above the SET button, with the settings AF-L / PRESET/ AF. I cover these settings at the 8:10 minute mark in the video, but I'll explain again here. AF: When the switch is set to AF, the four focus Fn buttons become AF-ON buttons. So, when you press any of the four Fn buttons, the camera will perform normal AF, just like if you half press the shutter button. It's kind of like back-button focus, but instead of using the AF-ON button for focus, you're using your left hand/finger on the lens buttons for focus, and the shutter button for taking the picture. In that way, it's a little less awkward than regular back-button focus. AF-LOCK: When the switch is in the AF-L setting, you activate the autofocus as normal, and when you achieve focus, you can press and hold any of the four Fn buttons to lock focus at the current position. As long as you keep the button pressed, the focus will be locked. PRESET: When the switch is on any of the three positions, you can focus on a subject and then press the SET button. This saves your current focus position to the lens focus preset memory. Then, if you put the switch on PRESET, you can press any of the four Focus Fn buttons to instantly recall the saved focus position. Let's say you've got the camera focused on a particular subject and you're waiting for it to do something really exciting. Or maybe it's a tricky subject of focus on. You can establish focus on that location and then press the SET button. (And also set the swtich to PRESET). Then, you can turn away and photograph other subjects, and when you're ready to photograph the first location again, you can swing the lens back and press any of the four Fn buttons to instantly recall the focus on the first location. Note that the camera will store the PRESET focus distance even when the camera is turned off, or if you remove the lens from the camera. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?

@@DanBaileyPhoto xt-5s thanks for the good explanation could not find a good how to video anywhere...the explanation will help!! planning a trip to africa in may 2025, will be our 2nd visit, and have the 100-400 but wanted something longer this time around have the 1.4 tc too. it is a massive piece of glass, got it used in ex+ from keh at a fuji demo event. so to be clear i can focus on an area hit set on the button but for it to go back to that focus position i need to go and set the sliding switch to preset? and it will only do that hitting the four function buttons...what if i want to focus on something else while the switch is in the preset setting...do i go back and refocus with the shutter button or back button? appreciate the response and glad you are back making videos.

As long as you don't hit the SET button again, the lens will remember that initial focus distance, so yes- you can shoot all day or multiple days, and focus normally on whatever subjects you want, whether you use the shutter button, the AF-ON button, or the four lens Fn buttons (with the switch set to AF.) Then when you put the switch to PRESET, pressing the Fn buttons will take you back to your original preset distance you created with the SET button. If the switch is set to PRESET and you use regular shutter button or AF-ON focus, I'm pretty sure the lens will focus normally. When in PRESET, only the 4 lens Fn buttons will activate your preset. I'm not 100% sure, since I don't have the lens to try it out right now, so I would advise trying it out to make sure. Focus on something, and hit the SET button. Then put the lens on PRESET and focus using the camera buttons and see what happens. As I said, it should work as normal, and only go to the preset focus when you hit the lens Fn buttons. Give this a try and let me know, so that I know. :)

My pleasure! Thanks for watching and for your comment! What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?

Thanks for your feedback, I'm glad you found this helpful! What camera system do you use and what kinds of action do you like to photograph?

DAn I shoot Nikon’s D3s, D850 & D610, I enjoy using vintage lenses with the Nikon 135mm f2 DC Prime a rather older lens. It is tack sharp lens f4, f5.6, 70-200mm f2.8, 85mm f1.8 I, 24-85mm are lenses i use majority of time. I also have vintage 28mm & 35mm primes, enjoy Portraiture, Landscapes, High School Action Sports. Thanks again for your excellent Video.

You're welcome. Modern cameras are very capable, but not infallible. I hope these tips help you increase your success rate, especially in tricky situations.

Awesome! 👍

I think it costs around $2K for the complete bellows, rail and mount kit. You can find it here: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1131859-REG/cambo_99010708_actus_camerabody_black_fuji.html/BI/5871/KBID/6746/DFF/d10-v21-t1-x617260

@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you!

👍🙂

Hmmm... that can be tricky. One option would be to record a separate video, or even just an audio track of your singer. That way you could pick up all those embellishments that the camera isn't getting. And, if there's ever a time when you just can't get a section of the video and audio to lock up, just stick in some B-Roll or other footage for those brief moments. That also keep things exciting for the viewer. Hope that helps! Let me know if either of those work for you.

Hey Mike, thanks so much for your comment, for subscribing and for buying my X Series book! I hope you find it to be a helpful resource. Let me know if you have any questions about the Fuji system. How are you liking your X-H1 and what do you like to photograph with it?

Jerry, the camera profile feature is only available on the X-Pro 3 and later, so that's why you're not seeing this option for the X-T3. Hope that helps.

@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you Dan.

You're welcome, Jerry! 😀

Thanks for your comment. I haven't found the delay to be a problem. What kind of computer are you using?

@@DanBaileyPhoto you don’t get the 8 second delay when you change the simulations? It’s a pretty decent gaming computer. Dell XPS 8910. 16gb ram. 4.00GHz. I’ve read others having this issue even with better computers. Weird

Thanks so much for your comment! I'm glad you found this helpful. Let em know when you complete a video, I'd love to see what you come up with!

That's not always a bad approach! There's truth to the saying that simplicity breeds creativity. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?

Cliff, thanks of your comment. Yes, the new 16-50 would be a great lens to use with the X-T1. The older cameras will work fine with any lenses, it's just the newer 40MP sensors that require the latest glass to take full advantage of the extremely high resolution these cameras are able to produce. Does that make sense?

Thanks for your comment. The 90 would be an excellent choice for a mid range telephoto on the X-T1. You'll find the quality to be excellent and the size/weight. make it very portable. Along with your 35 and 16 lenses, you'd have an excellent and very compact Fuji kit what would give you the wide/middle/long range view angles. Whenever I'm putting together a lens combination for heading out, whether it's for a short excursion or an extended shoot, this is how I always think: Wide, Middle, Long. This lets you cover all your bases without unnecessary duplication in your kit and overloading your camera bag. How are you liking the X-T1 so far?

Those X Series "kit lenses" have always been awesome, including the 16-50. I use mine all the time, it's my dedicated all around short to mid video lens. How are you liking your X-T5, and what kinds of of subjects do you like to shoot, Stan?

@@DanBaileyPhoto I own the X-T5 and the X-H2s. I purchased the X-T5 for travel, but I found it to be useful for just about anything. I even use it for theater dance shoots at iso 5,000 with fast primes. My travel kit is the X-T5, the new 16-50, and my favorite Fuji lens, the 70-300.

Stan, sounds like you have a very capable kit!! The 16-50 and 70-300 makes for a very versatile and lightweight combination for the X-T5 👍

Awesome!!! I think you'll be really impressed with this lens. What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot, Alan?

@@DanBaileyPhoto Good question. In the past, Airshows & Fast cars, I enjoyed the events. For this lens maybe more of the same, I hope. Now I see it being used more for walks & wildlife. Get close, get action, get detail.

Totally!! I like that: get close, get action, get detail! 👍

No, the Adv. modes can only be used for still photography. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to shoot?

Hi Juli, thanks for your comment! Glad to hear that you're enjoyed my videos. Yes, all the X Series cameras have great sensors, so you can expect great Image quality from both your X-T2 and X-T10. And yes, getting some lenses would be a great addition to your kit, as the X Series lenses and sensors are designed to work together and offer maximize performance. What kind of subjects do you like to shoot?

@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks for responding! I love shooting nature, especially wildflowers or any flowers really. I also love shooting birds, but I usually do that with my Canon EOS 1 D X, which I got used and just love for that along with my Sigma 100 - 600 mm lens. I also love shooting sports when I have a chance. I have used my X-T2 for travel, street, architecture and macro. I was just going through photos from my recent trip to Australia. My X-T2 took some gorgeous shots, reconfirming that I don’t need to upgrade to the X-T50, at least not yet! 😉 Thanks again for your videos I’m going to watch the whole series!

Juli, the X Series sensors have always produced wonderful looking images, so it's no surprise that you're excited about the photos you're making with your X-T2, even though it's an older model. When I look through my image library, many of my favorite all time images were made with the X-T2, and they look as good as anything I've shot with the X-T3, 4 and 5. Fujifilm designs these cameras so that people can get years of enjoyment from them! What X Series lenses do you use with your X-T2?

@@DanBaileyPhoto well, before heading to Australia, I rented the Fuji 18 - 135mm and I was very happy with it. I left that lens on most of the trip and it was the lens I got the great photos with. The other lens I used was a small macro lens I purchased, it's a Meke 60 mm F2.8. I use that for macro and some walk around shooting, landscape-type stuff while I am in nature. I recently purchased a crazy zoom for the X series, I have not received it yet. I hope I like it, I tried to watch videos and reviews on it, it's the Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di III-A VC VXD . My love of shooting birds and wanting more reach, but having something wide enough for walk around led me to this choice. I will keep you posted. Thanks so much!

Sounds like you've got a very capable kit!! I haven't personally used the Tamron 18-300mm for Fuji, but I hear that it's a very good lens. Their other models for Fuji are excellent.

Thanks so much for your comment! The XF70-300 is a fantastic lens. Although it's not as fast as the 100-400 with regards to auto focus, I found to be very capable for a lot of situations. With good technique, you can even nail those fast-moving subjects. I haven't tried the Sigma 100-400, but having read a couple reviews, I'm not sure that the auto focus would be any faster than the Fuji 70-300. Which X Series body are you currently using?

@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks for replying Dan, I have an XT-4. Decisions decisions… I do think the 70-300 sounds like it will focus better but I’m worried I will lose reach at 300 vs 400

That's what the 1.4x TC is for! 😀 It works exceptionally well with the 70-300.

@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks Dan! I didn’t even think about the teleconverter, but that sounds like the perfect solution and would get me to 420mm’

Yes, the 1.4x TC is a very good combination for any of the compatible X Series lenses. You get that extra reach, but with only one stop loss in light, which is hardly a penalty, given the great performance of the X Series sensors.

Thanks for your comment. You're right. First mention of the 90 is at 1:40, but I wanted to give some background about my style and history, which is a large part of why I love this lens... just like the title says. Are you a Fuji shooter?

Thanks for your comment. On the X-Pro 2, the AF-C Custom Settings options are more limited. That feature was added later after the camera had been out for a few months, and it only has the main 1-5 settings. You can't actually adjust any of the three parameters I cover in this video, or create a customized #6 setting, like you can on other models. So, you can only use the 1-5 settings, but even so, they're pretty capable. Even on my X Series cameras, I rarely make any adjustments and often use either setting #1 (Multi Purpose) or #4 (Suddenly Appearing Subject). Those two seem to cover the types of subjects that I shoot. What kinds of things are you shooting with your X-Pro 2 that you need help with?

(For some reason, it didn't seem like the first comment took, so I'm writing it again.) Hey there, thanks for your comment. The AF-C Custom Settings I was added to the X-Pro 2 later after the camera had been out for a few months, and it's somewhat limited on that model. You can only use the five presets, but you can't adjust any of the three parameters I talk about in the video. In addition, you can't save a custom preset #6, like you can on most of the other Fuji models. That said, I found that those 1-5 presets are pretty capable. Even with my action shooting, I almost never adjusted parameters. With most of my subjects, either keep it on #1 (muli-purpose), #2 (ignore obstacles) and #4 (suddenly appearing subject), and those usually get the job done for me. What kinds of subjects are you trying to shoot with your X-Pro 2? Maybe I can offer some suggestions.

Hi Robin, I had actually not heard of the new Photo Mechanic pricing plan, so thanks for bringing this to my attention. I've spent a bit of time since yesterday giving this some thought and looking through their forums, and so here's my response. Yes, absolutely. I will still continue to use their software. Having used PM for 18 years now, since the day I went digital, I have found it to be an absolutely excellent and essential program. I simply cannot imagine using anything else for editing, culling, sorting and adding metadata to large batches of images. Like many people these days, I am not a huge lover of software subscriptions. We all have too many subscriptions in our lives these days, but we can hold our noses all we want - they're not going away. While I agree that the new PM pricing seems expensive, I will likely go the perpetual route; I just think that's more cost effective in the long run, and here's why: The program is so simple and stable, which means that like many PM longtime users, I have only found the need to upgrade a few times over the course of those 18 years, even though numerous Mac OS upgrades. I certainly have not upgraded every year. In fact, looking through my purchase history, it appears that I've only upgraded about every four or five years, with my last upgrade to PM v.6 back in 2020. So, in 18 years, with new licenses and upgrades, I've only paid them around $480, which is an absolute bargain, and a ridiculously low amount for such an amazing program. Reading through their forums, I'm not the only one who's followed this trend. Compared to Adobe, Camera Bits is a tiny company with a small, but dedicated staff of 11 people. (Adobe Inc has 29,945 employees and a market cap of $234 billion). Most of those 11 people have been with the company for at least 10 years, some for over 20 years. They pay their employees fairly, and provide generous benefits, including 100% medical, PTO and retirement. I'm a firm believer in supporting companies like Camera Bits. I trust them to make excellent software, and I also trust them to make the best financial decision for their company. If this is what they decide will allow them to remain competitive and innovative, then they have my support. So, while the perpetual license does seem expensive, the reality is that there is almost no need to upgrade every year. Figuring that you could easily get by with 3+ years on a PM+ perpetual license before you would need to upgrade, this brings the amortized annual cost much closer to Adobe, if not considerably less. If you went for the regular version of PM for simple photo management,, it would be even lower. Hope that helps. I welcome your response. Are you currently a PM user and if so, how long have you use the program?

Hi there, thanks for your comment! I'm sorry if I wasn't clear here... please let me know what you don't fully understand about this setting I've discussed, and I will try to clarify further. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?

Hi Ravishankar, thanks so much for your comments here! It's great to hear feedback like this from other happy Fuji users who have found such enjoyment and creative excitement with the X Series over the years. I like how you talk about the lack of clinical perfection being a notable aspect of photography from the very beginning of the craft. Yes. Great art is never perfect, and it's not designed to be. It's a representation of the creative feelings we have in the moment when we press the shutter button. It's a reflection of our unique level of excitement that's translated into a relatable abbreviation that connects with other humans, not because it's perfect, but because it's incites our own imagination to think about the context, meaning or sheer beauty of the scene that you've conveyed with your camera and your own vision as an individual. Keep having fun with it!! What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?

Thanks for your comment! For my talking head videos, I always use Zone AF and set the box to a medium size and manually place it in the frame where I know my head will be. That way, I know it will always track my head/face, and since I shoot with the LCD turned around, or with an external monitor, I can see the AF box location right there on the screen to verify that I'm in focus. Hope that helps!

@@DanBaileyPhoto Continuous focus or single point? what about AF speed and tracking sensitivity?

I typically use AF-S Single. I'm standing still, so I'm not tracking, so the AF-C Custom Settings aren't really a factor here, since they're only used with AF-C mode. However, if I were to shoot a scene like this in AF-C mode, say my subject was moving around the frame, I'd probably just use the default Multi Purpose setting #1, unless the person was moving around a lot, or if their hands were moving a lot. Setting #2 Ignore Obstacles would keep the focus on the subject's face, even if a stay hand occasionally passed in front of it with wild gesticulating. Hope that helps.

@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you very much for the great explanation👍

You're welcome!!

Thanks, Dennis! Glad you enjoyed this! It was indeed a very meaningful project to complete. I had put off the editing for a year after my shoulder surgery, so it was great to finally get back and finish it. And yea, I was impressed with his workshop... I want one of my own, but for music and recording! 😂 Hope you're doing well these days. What have you been shooting lately?

Thanks, Dennis! Glad you enjoyed this. It was indeed a very meaningful project to complete. I had put off the editing for a year after my shoulder surgery, so it was great to get back and finish it. And yes, he has a great workshop... I want one of my own, except for music and recording! 😀 Anyway, hope you're doing well these days. What have you been shooting lately?

@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan. Mostly landscape, but some close up work along with some wildlife. Trying to visit places never been before. Traveling quite a bit. All the best. Enjoy your blog posts and videos a lot.

Good to hear! Take care and keep having fun with your photography, Dennis!

Thanks for your comment, I'm glad that you enjoyed this! And yes, that's a Strat. The music is a short piece I pulled from my library; I had recorded years ago, but it seemed to fit perfectly for this project!

Thank you so much, Jane! 🙂🙏

Thanks for watching, Sverre! I was pretty impressed with his workshop too!!

Thank you so much for watching, Janel! Hope you guys are doing well these days and enjoying summer! I might be coming to CO at the end of August!

Hey Jack, great to hear from you! Thanks for watching. I was really pleased at how it came out, especially after putting off the editing for months with my shoulder injury last summer. The great thing about his workshop is that he has those two chairs out front, which are perfect for enjoying beer and nice scotch! Hope you’re doing well these days!

Hi Jan, thanks of your comment! Glad you enjoyed it. I've known my dad for my whole life, and I was amazed when I watched him work during our filming session!

Unfortunately, no. The focus bracketing feature fires too quickly for the flash, so the built-in or on-camera flash would not work. In a situation like this, it would be better to use an LED light source that's always on, such as a ring light, or a small light panel, like this: bhpho.to/3z6xebe Hope that helps!

@@DanBaileyPhoto Looks like Olympus is really the only one who has that feature. Thanks this helps narrow down the options.

Cool. I didn't know that Olympus had that feature. Which model did you find that has this? Most cameras/flashes I know of aren't able to fire a long sequence at such short intervals. In theory, you could use a regular flash if you timed out your shot intervals longer and used the mechanical shutter, but again, available light or a continuous light source is your best bet if you don't want to switch cameras.

@@DanBaileyPhoto I believe all of them that use the bracketing feature. But definitely the newer om 5 and 1 series. It's limited to 1/50 Sutter speed but not impossible with body stabilization. The new on 1 mark 2 can do 1/100. But there's pro insect photographers do in body stacks and brackets

Lidia, I was mistaken. Apparently you can do focus bracketing using a flash with the Fujifilm cameras. Here's a video by my friend Bobbi Lane showing how to do it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/arJye71mrM-pm4U.html

Thanks, Jeff! This was really fun, and very meaningful to shoot. Hope you're doing well these days!

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! This was the most ambitious video/film I've ever shot, and I thought the X-T4 did an amazing job. As for my dad, he's always enjoyed woodworking on some level. When I was about 3, he built a garage, and later had a small remodeling business, so I'm really glad that he's found so much enjoyment with wood turning.

Thank you, Randy. Appreciate the comment. I am indeed, it was really meaningful to shoot this! Take care. 🙂

Ha! I definitely recognize the similarities. Thanks for watching, Ed! 😀

Thanks for your comment, congratulations on your new X-T5! Yes, since the X-T cameras don't have the C1-7 on a dial, it's not quite as fast to access them. However, with the touchscreen Q Menu and the RECALL C1 SETTING Fn button option, it's still pretty fast. What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?

Hi Michael, thanks for your comment. I'm glad that you're loving the Velvia look so much, it's always been one of my favorites! That's the great thing about the Fuji film sims, they all offer unique color palettes that can inspire our creativity in different ways when we're out shooting. What kinds of subject do you like to shoot?

It's all of us a lot of the time, unfortunately! 😆 Thanks for your comment. What kinds of things do you like to shoot?

Hey there Robbie,, thanks so much for your comment and your support! Yea... frozen shoulder... not a fan.😆 I had it twice, but was able to PT my way out of it. I see that you have quite a few guitar videos on your channel, (nice looking Martin! 👍) I'll go check them out. What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?

@@DanBaileyPhoto Unlucky ! I was under the impression that getting it a second time was very unusual !! The Martin is fab, a D28 from about 20 years or so ago - far too good for me tbh - it's just a hobby, I don't have enough patience or commitment to become good ! Same goes for the photography 😀. A bought an x-e1 back in 2012 along with the 18-55 kit lens and the 55-200mm zoom. They have served me very well but felt it was time for a bit of an upgrade - especially for the sports events I attend - Tennis, football etc. The new x-t30ii along with the 23mm f2 and the 70-300mm lens with a 1.4x teleconverter. The continuous autofocus tracking and extra reach will improve action shots hopefully. I do a lot of travelling (backpacking) also and the compact size of the x-t30ii and the little 23mm will encourage me to bring it along the way maybe the x-t5 wouldn't have (though I would have loved the better processor and the much better mechanical burst speeds.

I wasn't so much unlucky - A year and a half after it was back to full mobility, I crashed on my mountain bike and tore my rotator cuff. Crash+surgery+5 weeks in a sling gave me and even worse case of frozen shoulder. That one took 7 months of PT to get me mostly back to normal, and another 6 months to slowly under the very end of the restriction. I also have a Martin D-28 from about 20 years ago. Such sweet guitars! The X-T30II is a great little compact camera for backpacking, but if you love the processor speed & performance of the X-T5, you could always trade up to the new X-T50.

Awful ! Though the inevitability of cycling no ? Goodness knows how many spills I’ve taken over the years - my most recent one on the road bike resulted in a triple fracture of my left hip (acetabulum). Straightforward recovery but a frustrating 8 weeks in crutches 🤷🏼‍♂️. Oh I deliberated over the x-t50 and waiting but I wasn’t really interested so much in the bigger sensor nor the IBIS and I preferred the old dial rather than the film sims (which I don’t use much). When I established the x-t50 didn’t improve the mech shutter burst speed I decided the x-t30ii would suffice ! We’ll see in a year or 2 😀

Yikes!!! I'm usually pretty good at not crashing, or at least rolling out of it ok. I suppose in a year or two, Fujifilm will come out with the 5th gen X-E5. That might be the one for you.