It would depend on the type of light. If it is a single unit then the middle would be fine, if it is a strip, (like in the video) I prefer under the front pelmet. I think; at the back the light is behind your kettle casting a shadow. At the front the light will 'light up' your kettle.

Hi, thanks for your comment, all you need to do is google a local UPVC window manufacturer and you can buy a new double glazed unit. Then you can fit the glass as shown in this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/od2ZgtKBstDOkYU.html You can remove beading to get the old glass out and just replace the new one.

Thanks for your comment, it was a great fun project and we are planning more, so watch this space 👍

Hi Del, thanks for your comment. The items all came from Amazon and they change their listings so I think links will not last long. If you copy the description and paste it in Amazon you will get the item even when it gets re-listed, is that OK?

It came out OK in the end, and when we painted it with white emulsion it looked spot on. There was a bit on the floor, but we were going to tile the floor anyway so we got away with it.👍

It's great to know we helped! Thanks for your comment, we'll be changing some UPVC hinges soon, subscribe so you don't miss it 👍

Thanks for your comment, All of this video is in slow mode in the channel. You can see each part of the build with explanations and detail. 👍

Cheers Bob, it's great to get a comment like this from a skilled tradesman! 👍

Thanks for your comment! Glad you liked it.👍

Hi there, thanks for your comment. If the room is to be habitable you need building control approval - provided it falls within the 'permitted development' rules. You don't need full plans, when you register with building control a building officer will visit and you explain your intentions and the officer will tell you what is necessary before the next visit. It is all explained step by step if you follow all the videos - try not to skip so you don't miss any detail and you should be fine. Good luck! Don't forget to subscribe. 👍

Thank you for that. So a building notice will suffice. Have subscribed 👍

Thanks for your question, This is a warm deck and so it doesn't require ventilation at the sides. Keep watching 👍

Thanks for your comment Joseph, The knowledge is not as daunting as it seems and we got most from building regs and other youtube videos. The first thing is to get the building officer round and tell him what you are doing, then he will tell you what foundations he wants to see, you dig them, he looks, you pour concrete in. And.... you're on your way. We bought most of the tools except things like the whacker plate. We will do the costs soon, I'm going to do a video showing the entire build in 15 mins or so and will put the costs in there.

Thanks for your comment, I can understand why you would use a wetter mix, but we found a dryer mix was better for us. As for the perpendiculars (perps) (verticals) you can see them being addressed in the same way during the clip, but we focussed on a horizontal run for our explanation. Keep the comments coming. Thanks for watching.👍

This is a good point! Because the wind was so strong I thought it would take the dust away and it mostly did. I was still a bit raspy afterward. Lesson learnt! Thanks for your comment. 👍

@@RealDIYbuild 👍 we have all done it . I always extract when I grind out but still wear a mask our life is precious .have a great day

​@@RealDIYbuildit's not just the dust but the fact that the blade can shatter and cut your face in half, let alone take your eye out! I always wear close fitting goggles and a mesh full-face shield, plus jeans, boots and a thick jumper, but that's just me.

I did also recently find out that discs have a use before date as they can delaminate after time making a dangerous breakage more likely. Given many are just pennies, I now throw them out when they reach the expiry.

@@iaminterestedineverything I think you are talking about grinding discs, this is an 8mm steel mortar rake with a diamond edge.

Thanks Marcus, it's always good to get good feedback. 👍

Hi Ian, yes we did consider that, but being an outside (porch) wall that gets wind and rain on it anyway we decided to just keep away from the wall until well above DPC. That was one we thought a bit about! Thanks for your comment, keep watching. 👍

@@RealDIYbuild thought you would have already thought of it

We just give it a go, I had never done building work until we started this channel except bits of DIY and Tez works in a factory office. Thanks for your comment. 👍

No Scrim? You haven't watched it all have you? Naughty! But thanks for your comment! 👍

Thanks for your comment, because we are going over plasterboard we thought a single skim coat would be OK, all we wanted was to get it flat and smooth for painting, and to be honest, it has come out really well. I think the smoothing out might be easier if you do 2 coats, so if the wall was a bit rougher you would need to do that.👍

@@RealDIYbuild thank you. You've done bloody brilliant on your own. 👍

Cheers Ricky @@Ricky-gu6xn

We're in Lincolnshire, Good luck with your project. We are about to do a short series on garden walls as we finish the outside off. So stay tuned and we'll see you soon.👍

Thanks Dwayne, that is great to hear! I'm glad it is helpful!👍

Thanks, it is great to get good feedback! 👍

Unfortunately yes. Unless you can hacksaw the handle off, but that will depend on the shape of the handle over the screw holes.

Just for your info I researched this problem on KZfaq and you can release a locked handle from the inside by sliding a blade under the handle and releasing the locking mechanism. Not tried it myself yet but looks very easy @@RealDIYbuild

Nice one Colin. I haven't seen that one, but I might give it a go.👍

LOL yeah it was his day off 🏏

I was thinking the exact same thing when I saw it!

LOL he is working on his day job! 👍

Thanks KP, it is always good to get feedback. If you see M's comment below we corrected the problem at the time. Keep commenting. 👍

Cheers, it's always good to get feedback! 👍

Thanks Peter, always happy to get tips and advice. 👍

Hi Sunit, you can see the doorway at 14.00/16.55 It is a cavity up to the top row of blocks then it is returned to the outer wall. Leave the returning block off until you put the cavity fill in and then it can sit on top of the fill. The cavity fill is about bulk more than concrete strength. so 6-8 parts ballast 1 part cement would do.

@@RealDIYbuild thank you so much, you guys are golden

Thanks, we are working on it.👍

Hi Parson, yes I did scrim the joints, you can see it if you look closely. I will mention it in my next video (which is going to be about plastering as well) 👍

Thanks Sunit, 👍

Cheers Marcus, there's more to come 👍

Thanks Marcus, it's something I always wanted to try and here we have it. There will be more! :) 👍

Yes we were quite lucky to be fair, soft sandy soil. Clay is really tough and you might need to dig deeper with your foundations which is a double mugging. Good luck with it. Let us know how you get on. 👍

@@RealDIYbuild thanks buddy! I got up to part 4 to the wee hours last night then fell asleep. I’ll definitely be watching more later.

Nice one! Good luck with your project.👍

LOL Thanks Marcus, if you subscribe to the channel, your hair might grow back.👦

@@RealDIYbuild 😆😆

I'm like you, I tried it once before and it wasn't great. I think it is all about not panicking and waiting until it is getting firm before trying to finish off. Don't forget to click subscribe 😀

Thanks Michael, any advice, credit or recognition from an expert is very welcome 👍

Hi Patrick, it is a radial circuit rather than a ring circuit. This gives us 2 options we can have a 4mm with a 32A breaker or 2.5mm with a 16A breaker (dependant on the size of the circuit) . Because this is a kitchen extension (Kettles and such) I opted for the 4mm. If you are thinking of installing a circuit, you would have to get professional advice for your particular requirements. 👍

Absolutely right Matt, we do improve as we go, and in the next video, we get it spot on. Thanks for your comment :)👍

Thanks Rab, good luck with your projects 👍

Hi Sunit, 5mm all round. So if the window was 1m the width of the opening would be 1010mm (5mm extra each side) 👍

Hi Paul, that was just how long the wall was, So we built it in under the doorway so it would be invisible in the end, if you look at the next video you will see what we did with it above the doorway, where it blends in very neatly. :) 👍