Great video, I have similar 16 foot boat, I was guessing the draft, at the lake end is about 2 feet, if you could confirm, just building my ramp and want to know how to place , lake end. Thx

Where did you purchase it from been looking for it

Where did you get the rollers?

Just saw this video. Wondering what you do in winter when the lake freezes. Did you leave in or take out? Figure the ice would destroy it.

Hey the ramp looks great!. Can you tell me how wide u spaced the main support and how far apart u set the cross beams? Thanks!

How that ramp working out after all this time, did you get wheels for the back, think an 18 Stanley Mink 115 4 stroke too big?

why did you use metal hangers instead of having 2x6 between the joists?

Where do you get those rollers?

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how far apart are 2x6 rails . thank you

Hi, really cool thanks for sharing. What happens if the lake water rises substantially? is the ramp fastened somehow?

what was the width of the ramp vs the width of the boat? Were you outside the keels?

Do you think it'd be possible to make one of these for a 4000lb 21' boat?

Good review. Have you found anything yet that stands out to you good or bad?

what was measurement of your rail centres (beam distance) you used? how many rollers did you use?

can you put wheels on the bottom end to help roll it out in to the lake?

see my channel for related videos on the ramp

Boat is roughly 16 feet 8 inches. Weight is under 2000 lbs loaded.

How long is boat and what's its weight?

So far, after two full seasons being in the water for 6 months at a time, the submerged ends are fine. I used pressure treated wood and treated every cut end. It think all the wood cost less than $200, so even replacing a board or two really isn't an issue over the lifetime.

how well does the wood holed up in the water

Thanks for the video...on my list for next year.

PS. there are related videos for this product on my channel. I show the ramp built as well as it being used.

By the looks of it, I used five 2x6x8s cut in half to make the cross supports. Another one was also used at the front of the ramp (half). Hardest part of building was drilling the holes through the beams to extend the ramp. I was at camp, eaten alive by mosquitos, and having a hard time keeping things clamped and lined up on a small deck. The next one I build I will pre-drill everything. I transported everything in pre-cut. I spent a bit of time deciding how far off the sides I would extend th

Hey, how many of the 2"x6"x8' did you use? What was the hardest part of building the ramp? any tips? The winch comes with a strap instead of the cable now.

I was thinking of using bolts with heads that can be easily removed with a socket set. Popping off 8 per side twice a year is pretty easy. Our bank is a little steeper than yours and I think for us hauling up the entire ramp would be difficult. I'll be getting the kit next wednesday and will take a look at the instructions.

Taking part of the ramp apart year after year sounds like a good waste of leisure time. See the other videos on my channel to see what's involved with joining beams. I followed the shoredocker instructions. It's strong, but taking that apart would be a pain. You might reasons to do so though . . .

I am going to be building a 20 foot ramp like yours, not sure how wide yet. I am thinking of making it so the lower of the 2"x8"x10' beams can be detached for the winter. I just gotta make sure it will be solid and level. I ordered a kit which should be in next Wednesday. Thanks for these videos, the company should put these on their website

The boat's beam is 82".

To answer some questions i received--I'm not sure of the beam length for my boat. The boat is 16'9" plus the motor. For the winter I pull the ramp out and remove the rollers. Taking the rollers off is easy. I did this to prevent theft and any possible damage from cold. Muscle pulled this ramp out in the fall, but my intentions are to build two removable wheel/axle assemblies. These will be used to put the ramp in an take it out, but will be taken off before putting the boat on. This spring I u

hey, I am looking at getting this kit for my 16.5' 75" beam boat and I had a few questions. 1. whats the beam of your boat? 2. I am concerned that the ice might pull this out in the spring. How did you store the ramp for the winter? did you leave it in the water? how did it hold up? and if you took it out of the water, how much trouble was it to do? Thanks a lot for these videos, very useful

I have had not problems with the wheels so far. I did take them off for the winter (easy to do) -- didn't want them getting stolen or simply being exposed to icing. I can send the instructions later this week. I also recall someone sending me a link to instructions online. I can see if I can find that again.

is there a problem with the yellow wheeles. , and my email is [email protected] for the instructions, im buying one this week

I'm really not too sure about using 4" wheels. Shoredocker also makes another ramp kit called the SD1200, which uses a doughnut shaped wheel that doesn't articulate. The yellow wheels on my ramp move to comform to the shape of the boat. Have a look at the SD1200 to see how they mount their wheels: this might give you some ideas. Good luck.

do you think this thing could be built with heavy duty 4'' wheels instead of the yellow ones?i am trying to design my own ramp and thought of using wheels not rollers.what do you think?let me know

Update on the instructions: I managed to find them in my iPhone. I can email them to anyone who sends me a message with an email address.

Sorry, I can't find the pictures I took of the instructions. If I find them, I'll post them. After having built the ramp outdoors, the instructions were pretty shredded up. Tip: make a copy of them!

Another thought I had . . . i did take pictures of the instruction pages. I'll look into posting these. I took the pictures in case I lost the pages or got them too wet to read them at camp. I wish the company posted the instructions on their site, I think it would really help people pull the trigger and buy this product.

Answer to your second question: 2. The winch is OK, but could potentially be better. I don't have a lot of experience with winches, but this one seemed pretty standard. My boat comes in at just shy of the 2ooo lbs limit (motor, fully fueled, and boat plus gear). I'm not a total wimp, but I do protect my back, so cranking with two hands keeps my back from getting stiff. If you could find a winch with a different (bigger) cranking ratio, it might be easier. Really, it's not that hard to crank.

Anwers to your questions. 1. The instructions are pretty good. I read them cover to cover at least twice before building. Don't build and read as you go. This will help you pick up on the tips that are included in the instructions. One thing lacking in the instructions is info about the spacing of the rollers and wooden cross supports. This is due to the fact that the company can't account for every dimension combo you can come up with.

In the grand scheme of things, the work needed to build this isn't all that bad. I made the mistake of building it at the height of our black fly season. I hate those little things! Having level ground to build the beam is the most important thing (re: drilling and matching up holes).

I have two other related videos on my channel. Just click on my name above the title of this video. The ramp is great.

Any update on this project? Looking to hear what you think and if you are happy with at, as I am considering it myself.

Very helpful, thanks for posting, and great job on the ramp!

I built the wood frame: 20' x 4', using 2"x8"x10' boards for the beams (attached end to end). Beams are roughly 30" inches apart. The cross supports are 2"x"6"x8's cut to 48" (these overlap the rails for extra base stability). For this rail lenght, I will order extra glav. steel corner supports and an extra set of rollers to finish. Still need to attach the winch post. Will be at camp next weekend and will finish building. I'll post a video...as long as the boat does not collapse the frame.

Thanks for posting this -- I'll be watching for your follow-up on building and using the SD2000 with great interest. Dave