The leg sturdiness / leg tube diameters are bigger with the 3573. C3573F would stand for carbon fibre with flip locks. A3573T would stand for aluminium with twist locks ^^. Altough: I would highgly recommend to go for the carbon variant OR if aluminium is preferred (price wise) go for a used Manfrotto 290XTA3 or 190X3 tripod. Especially the Manfrotto 290XTA3 is one of the best bang for buck tripods you can get ^^. Btw.: The video is quite old - There are already Mark II variants of those Benro heads on the market. LG

Good to hear that it helps (to narrow the issue). It messes you up if it happens just randomly / from time to time and you are not sure where the issues is coming from (in a whole setup) ^^.

@@AustrianGeek Yeah I spent so much time checking cables, my mic, and the audio interface which have been rock solid so far. I'm using and sm57 with Dynamite Inline booster, plugged into a Motu M2 but it turned out to be the DBX 286s all along. I used to toggle on and off Phantom Power and it would fix it for a little bit then I had to turn off Phantom Power remove the cable from the mic for a few seconds plug the mic back in and turn on phantom power for it to work for a little while. It's been a nightmare while trying to livestream having to do that constantly.

@@AustrianGeek BTW I was looking for an alternative and the one you suggested is pretty hard to find for me and super expensive. Do you know of any other alternatives. I'm a total noob when it comes to audio but learning so much from you and others on KZfaq.

​@@Dangeruss In live or webinar / meeting situations its super annoying yes (as you do not recognise the fault immediately). About alternatives: You could check out the Behringer UV1 unit. Not 100% exactly the same feature set as the DBX 286s - But slight differences you have all the time between the different devices. LG

@@AustrianGeek Thanks so much for the advice. I appreciate your time. Do you have an Amazon affiliate account so I can use your link for you to get a commission if I decide to pick one up.

The best guess is that it stands for "video camera tripod". Sony released a ton of smaller video tripod models starting with the same VCT designation at the front. ^^ LG

Good to hear that it helped. Have fun shooting ^^. LG

Hmm. I think I used the ACE L for those shots. Also a nice head - Sadly not available anymore new. Though keep in mind that the ACE heads are not as long time stable drag wise (compared to other heads on the market). They tend to wear out (especially panning wise) if you use them really intensively. So only an option if you do not shoot on an everyday basis or "heavy duty" fluid head stuff like shooting sports with movements all the time. Btw.: I still use the BV4 as a secondary head btw. (went for a used kit a few years after this review). Still one of the best lightweight and cheap fluid heads on the market in its class ^^. LG

@@AustrianGeek I liked BV4 until I learned it's not a fluid head but a panhead. Do you think it's as smooth as your ACE?

@@davemorphling7432 Why do you think that tis only a pan-head? Pan head would mean that its only moving in one axis btw. But the BV4 is a classical fluid head (with fluid cartridges) like any other "real" fluid head for video applications on the market ^^. The BV4 is even smoother than the ACE M and ACE L at least. The newer ACE XL I did not use til now - But it should use the same cartridges as the older ACE L model. LG

Sure. Its just coming with more parts water in it / you can still get off grease and other stuff super easily. Isopropyl alcohol is mixing pretty well with water. So you can also make it even "thinner" by adding more destilled water. Will still vaporise without residues. Its just not working that well then anymore on super greasy surfaces. ^^

@@AustrianGeek Great, thanks! I mean can I use it at 70% undiluted?

@@infinitesimotel You can if you want to. If its still removing the residues properly, you also save on alcohol ^^. But I would go for destilled water to mix (to prevent any residues). And even 100% isopropyl alcohol is normaly not damaging the coatings of the glass. At least it wasn´t the case for the lenses I cleaned and repaired til now ^^. Though I only use iso if its necessary. For everyday external cleaning of the lenses I use most of the time monitor / LCD screen cleaner (as its also not aggressive to plastic parts of more modern lenses ^^). Isopropyl alcohol is also quite aggressive against various plastic mixtures (and printed letters). So be aware that you are not getting it on any plastic parts / on non glass parts of your lenses.

Brilliant, I just wanted to know if it was OK to put isoprop directly on a lens because I don't know what sort of chemical or glass they might have that could be ruined, but thanks for answering that for me. Vielen Dank!!

Yes got to be careful with plastics because they dont all go well with alcohol/solvent bases.

Good to hear that the video helped. Just keep in mind that this video comparison is quite old. The newer S4 Pro model could perform way better (compared to the older version in this video ^^). LG

Hmm. Do you mean if you can use it for vlogging? Sure -> Just flip the display to the front. There is no 2nd camera (like on a phone) if you menat that ^^.

That's what I've been doing and that worked for a while then I needed to turn off Phantom Power and remove the cable from the mic. The plug the mic back in and turn back on Phantom Power. The problem has been getting worse over time.

As far as I remember its normaly a multi file (so multiple tracks in one file). You can also select in the recorder if its "STEREO" or "MULTI" file you want to record. I guess stereo mixes then down all channes to a stereo file. Sadly I cannot test that for you - I do not have the H5 anymore. LG

Ah. Good to hear that this can also fix the issue (maybe an exchange of the cable is also a fixing option). Thx for the hint. LG

gg. Ne. Das gibt es nur auf Englisch. Es gibt übrigens auch nen 2. Teil des Videos (nur mit dem 44-2): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9Z9ZpVpma7PcYU.html Schmierung vielleicht mal das OSIM MKL1 ansehen. Das ist günstig und sowohl für Kunststoff als auch Metall geeignet (kann man also auch für modernere Objektive mit Kunststoff-Anteil verwenden. Die generellen Schmierstoffe die man so kriegt sind leider entweder zu dick / schwergängig, sind aggressiv gegen Kunststoffe z.B. (zersetzen diese Bauteile dann) oder sie stinken regelrecht (ich glaube im 2. Video hab ich das Heißlagerfett mal verwendet - Das ging zwar auch - Aber vom Geruch her eben nichts, was man dann in der Kameratasche mit transportieren möchte ^^). Es gibt auch noch das HG10 Schmiermittel (aus Japan) das großteils als "leichtes" Schmiermittel für Linsen verwendet wird (besonders wenn es leichtgängig sein muss bez. Autofokus-Linsen z.B.). ABER: Das verliert leider ein wenig Öl über die Zeit / bei höheren Temperaturen. Bin ich also auch nicht mehr so recht ein Fan davon (weil man erst wieder das ganze Schmiermittel entfernen muss nach einiger Zeit - Ölverlust = ungut wieder in der Fototasche UND wenn der Schmierstoff das Öl verliert heißt das, dass es nicht mehr schmiert / flüssig läuft ^^). LG

Hi there. You can mount the heads everywhere, with a flat base mounting option (3/8" screw). The blue part is just for leveling on the tripod (Manfrotto 755XB for example offers a similar feature). Though: Its not really needed. Normaly adjusting over the legs (the level) is enough. Btw.: The video is quite old already - So take it with a grain of salt ^^. There are nowadays way more options on the market (also with flat base mounting). A way better option would be the Manfrotto 608 or older N8 head for example. But the S4 Pro should also "do it" if you just need a head to start with ^^. Have a nice day. LG

Hey there. Sry for the late reply. Did you get the S6 already (or the S6 Pro in case you went for the newer model)? Keep in mind: The video is quite old already - There are nowadays way more options on the market regarding fluid heads. With such a payload I would btw. recommend to save some money and go for a "real" fluidhead like the Benro BV4 or BV6 (latter one offers more payload - Drag is the same as on the BV4). Such "real" fluid heads offer way better control over your movements (and they normaly don´t include "play" or sitbacks at the end of a movement). If you are not happy with the S6, try to find a used BV4 kit from Benro. Those are sometimes SUPER cheap on the used market and kind of unbeatable price / performance wise. Or just search for the head alone and go for a good set of sticks / legs to combine it with them. Still have a BV4 here as a 2nd head / tripod (not super high quality head - But the movement performance at that price point is unbeatable). Have a nice day. LG

Sry. Not owing one anymore. But as long as you´re using it indoors and not on the go / outdoors all the time, it should hold up quite a while. Btw.: The model and my video are both quite old now (there are many better models on the market nowadays ^^). Have a nice day. LG

No. Batteries are (normaly) never included. There are just some special packs / kits dealers or manufacturers offer sometimes. Btw.: This model is now quite old (the video is from 2016) -> Unless you get it super cheap on the used market, I would go for something else (especially with more brightness to use it outdoors more easily). Also recommended: 5" up to 6" models. 7 inch is too big most of the time for on camera use with smaller ballheads / tilt adapters. Have a nice day. ^^ LG

No. Its just a monitor. The unit is also quite old / long on the market now (video is also quite old). There are better units now available with higher brightness and way more features. Unless you get it at a very good price point - Its still a good screen ^^.

Hmm. As the lens extending is heavily changing the balance (front/back wise), it could be hard for every gimbal to drive the RX10 II. Unless you keep the zoom of the lens in a smaller range / more or less constant at the wider angle for example. But the DJI gimbals should support the RX10 over the Sony Multi-Interface cable. At least the SC is officially supporting the RX10 III and IV for example (just google for "Rx10 III + Ronin-SC Compatibility result"). According to DJI taking photos, start/stop video, zooming and AF triggering should work. But no guarantee for those points with the RX10 II + other / newer models from DJI. I guess you have to try it out (just buy the gimbal somewhere, where you have the option to send it back if its not working out for you). Btw.: The older SC gimbal from DJI is ok-ish and super cheap nowadays - But I would personally go for the successors instead (RSC2 or the new RS3 Mini should also suffice / work) ^^.

Yes. Its still a good deal. To all which are interested - Just keep in mind the non Full-HD resolution (the screen only offers 720P native resolution) and its quite "reflective". So more of a studio / indoors screen. Its sometimes also available as a great bargain on the used market too (also the direct / outside nearly identical FW760 and FW74K successors). LG

I am not sure if its possible with that screen (as you mentioned it seems to be only an DC input). I sadly do not have the screen anymore - So I cannot test it on my side. You can still go for a battery, which offers a D-TAP or DC output. That way you can connect to the battery directly (and then power both - Screen and camera at the same time). Just keep in mind: You can get some ground loop issues / audio humming using such solutions (humming in the audio). So you have to test it with the final setup in detail (before using it in field / for a project). And order the stuff where you can give it back if it causes any issues. ^^ LG

Scheint leider relativ häufig der Fall zu sein (das Problem). Vielleicht mal die Rechnung prüfen bevor es in den Müll fliegt. Manche Händler geben ja auch 3 Jahre Garantie von sich aus. ^^

@@AustrianGeek ja, ich hab tatsächlich noch 4 Wochen Garantie :D Wer hätte es gedacht, danke dir fürs erinnern :) Hab denen auch den Link zu deinem Video gleich mitgeschickt, mal sehen was passiert...

@@MarcelEsPunkt Optimal! Freut mich. Übersieht man leider recht leicht (normal sind es ja nur 2 Jahre maximal von Herstellerseite). Das Video muss man mit schicken ja - Die testen ansonsten nur kurz ob es geht (und da klappt es dann meistens und man kriegt es nicht repariert zurück im schlimmsten Fall). Schönen Tag noch. LG

Hmm. There should be also service centers for DBX devices in Japan (even if its a 3rd party one). Only question is: As its a lower priced unit from scratch on - Is it really making sense to repair it. (Non-) Fun fact: I got mine repaired back and after a few days / weeks it went defect again. So there is also no guarantee, that the repair will hold up well over time. LG

Hey there - Maybe check out the 2nd part / video ^^ - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9Z9ZpVpma7PcYU.html

Hi there. Thx for the hint. Could be an issue with the cable yes. Tough just touching of the (insulated) cable with the cassis should not cause such issues. Maybe its a broken cable or the affected DBX units have bad connectors on one of the pcbs. But electronically it "should" not make a difference if its touching the cassis or not. Let us pls know, if its coming back or not. LG

I have this exact same issue with mine, I am using a sE Electronics X1 A Large-diaphragm Condenser Microphone. Where you able to get it resolved?

@@robertbmxpa Since doing the fix in my original comment (rearranging the cable so that it doesn't contact the chassis,) the issue has only reappeared about twice. It's not a flawless victory, but definitely much much better. I'm running a Rode NT1, not the same exactly, but it's also a large diaphragm condenser mic.

Hallo auch - Ja. War von Thomann. Aber hatte das Glück, dass der RMA Support die damalige Fehlerbeschreibung wohl beherzigt hat (bzw. an die reparierende Firma weiter gegeben hat). Das Gerät war dann aber nach wenigen Wochen (es war nicht mal ein Monat glaube ich) aber wieder kaputt. Selber Fehler. Scheint also definitiv ein Serienfehler zu sein. Auch wenn es nur ein bestimmtes Bauteil betreffen sollte - Kaputt ist kaputt. Bzw. es sind ja Neugeräte. D.h.: Könnte noch längere Zeit dieses Problem geben (auch wenn es bei älteren Chargen / Produktionsreihen nicht auftritt bringt es einem nicht - Neugerät = Risiko im laufenden Betrieb). Nach dem 2. Fehler habe ich dann aber nach einer Gutschrift gefragt und etwas später mit ein paar anderen Sachen dann den Drawmer MX Pro 60 besorgt. Deutlich teurer leider - Aber der läuft wenigstens problemlos (die beiden 286s Defekte haben mir gereicht ehrlich gesagt). Ist aber aktuell leider recht teuer nur verfügbar oder überhaupt vergriffen. Behringer UV1 wäre aber noch ne Option - Das Modell kenne ich aber persönlich nicht / habe ich noch nicht verwendet. War damals nach der 1. Reparatur auch recht genervt (da ich das Gerät recht stark verkratzt zurück bekommen hatte). Aber naja - Was soll man machen. Bzw. war nur die Ober- und Unterseite. Die Front war zum Glück heil wie man im Video sieht. Würde die nochmals anschreiben und auf das Video hier verlinken. Vielleicht vorher nochmals wie hier gezeigt testen ob es wirklich genau dieser Fehler ist und so reproduzierbar ist und parallel auch gleich selbst kurz mit dem Handy ein Video machen damit die sehen dass es am Gerät liegt. Eigentlich sollte er bekannt sein ja (der Fehler). Aber die werden auch nicht alles selbst reparieren sondern viel reparieren lassen. Und die externen Firmen haben womöglich andere Test-Abläufe oder haben vielleicht nicht alle Infos weiter geleitet bekommen. Das passiert (leider) viel zu oft bei Reparaturen. LG

Können sie normalerweise (bez. Reproduzieren). Alternativ einfach den Link zu diesem Video hier schicken - Habe ich damals ebenfalls so gemacht. Bzw. der Fehler sollte bereits bekannt sein. Nur so als Warnung: Die Reparatur hat um die 4 oder 5 Wochen gedauert. ABER: Das Gerät war nach kurzer Zeit dann erst wieder kaputt (gleicher Fehler). Das zweite mal habe ich dann um Gutschrift gebeten. Bei mir war das Gerät aber neu - Bei älteren Geräten weiß ich nicht, wie kulant sie sind. Würde aber damit rechnen, dass es wieder auftritt der Fehler (irgendwann). Wenn der channel strip / DBX 286s also wichtig ist im Setup, am besten ein Ersatz-Gerät beschaffen für den Fall der Fälle - Am besten etwas anderes (Drawmer MX Pro 60 oder Behringer UV1 oder so) und nicht noch einen 286s ...

Hmm. Regarding the Viltrox page only FM500H / QM71D / QM91D and the NP-F series batteries (NP-F550/570/750/770/950/970 and similar ones). Btw.: The model is quite old already (the video was shot in 2014). Better check out for example the more rugged Atomos Shinobi (5 or 7 inch models) - They offer a hard front and are therefor quite safe to transport / quite resistant against a breaking panel. And used they are quite affordable available sometimes (at least the 5 inch model). Or check out the SWIT CM-55C (5 inch) or SWIT CM-S75C (7 inch). All listed model also comie with high brightness screens (the 7 inch models even with 2200 and 3000 nits for outdoor shooting). Maybe save some money instead of going for a cheaper model ^^. Have fun shooting. LG

@@AustrianGeek The bad thing is that my camera is not an ALPHA, it is a SONY DSC HXV400, rather an old CYBERSHOT DSLR, but leaving this monitor aside, is it also compatible with ALPHAS? No?.. But once thanks.

Hello there. Well - The standard Benro S series heads are quite old already. The new "pro" models I don´t know in person. But in general, those heads are drag based (with no fluid cartridge inside them). They just press plates against each other and depending on the force applied, you get more or less dampening. Thx for the 502 removal link - Thats also an option for lighter payloads - Sure. But the 502 is also a drag based head only - And instead of the 502 (without spring) you could also go for a used 128RC or so (with similar performance / payload capacity then). Removing the spring of an 502 only makes sense, if you get it dirt cheap or if you have it alraedy and you want to continue to use it with smaller payloads ^^. For scopes on the other hand I would check out heads with real fluid cartridges inside (even if its only a cheaper model). Beside the WAY better drag system of real fluid heads: Most cheaper drag based heads only offer a fixed spring - Or way too big stepped counterbalance systems (like its the case with the Benro S8 for example). The problem is, that with a higher drag (real fluid cartridge) head, the drag would compensate a little bit of the too high or too low counterbalance force. But with the cheaper (drag based) ones, the drag systems are just too weak to do that. So another point against cheaper drag based heads (for scoping but also in general) ^^. About the BV4 and BV6: I had now in total four of them (three BV4 and one BV6 - One BV4 and the single BV6 I used for some months and resold them with some legs to colleagues. One BV4 of my review I sent back as it was the wrong model. And one BV4 is STILL in use by me as a super lightweight setup). The huge plus with them: You get them dirt cheap, you get really good drag cartridges and they are really lightweight. Cons: Built quality is not the best, and only with the newer variants you get a good / way better coated quick release plate. But as 501PL, 501PLONG, 504PL plates are fitting, you can also exchange it in case its coming with an older model (with matte / rough coating). They are flexing a little bit (as they are out of plastic - For whatever reason they didn´t release the BV4 and BV6 models as metal variants like the S6, S8, BV8, BV10 etc.) - And the counterbalance control knob if wiggling a little bit and you need to set it exactly to the step you need - But for the offered drag and counterbalance performance there is nothing cheaper on the market (with such a good / high drag on both axis). And I can tell you that, as I have / had kind of EVERY fluid head under 1000 bucks in my hands til now (still have many lying around for a big shootout ^^). Btw.: Maybe order a head somewhere, where you can either try out the head locally before buying. OR where you can send it back if its not fitting your needs. Or buy a used kit and resell it again (all my BV heads / kits except the one BV4 of my review video I bought in used kits at a nice discount vs. new). Then you can try out if its enough for your needs (and keeping up with the payload in every position). And YES - You need a counterbalance spring system so the scope is keeping in place (vertically / tilting wise). If you want to be on the safe side, then go for the BV6 with two additional spring steps (everything else is the same with the BV4). The quality btw. differentiates inbetween the series and head models. The S series are (funnily) out of metal / metal-ish materials. The BV4 and BV6 are out of plastic. The BV8 and BV10 again out of metal. The BV4 and BV6 are therefor lower in quality / haptics wise worse. But in the end the drag performance and the features (counterbalance wise for example) is the important stuff. Not how they look like or how they "feel" in your hand ^^. The tripods you should find quite easily btw. At least the Manfrotto 535 (or the cheaper MVT535AQ aluminium version) you should be able to find used here and there (the Sachtler TT = the Manfrotto 535 if you can find it cheap somewhere). The E-Image GC752 and GA752 tripods are often part of tripod kits and you can sell off the head of a used kit to just keep the legs - The GA752 being the aluminium version (which is also great btw.). But the Manfrottos are easier to find I guess (used). Gitzo is too expensive sadly (and Feisol is too hard to find in general - Especially used). Miller SOLO legs are also really nice but harder to set up / they take longer to set up due to the screw locking legs - But they are SUPER sturdy (in the carbon fibre version which I have lying here). The Manfrotto 645 legs are also quite sturdy and come with quick locks like the GC752 / GA752 from E-Image. But they are too new to find cheaper - There is also a cheaper aluminium version btw. Cartoni RedLock with 75mm half bowl is also ok. There are also some older legs from Cartoni / Sachtler which are quite nice (Cartoni 1 stage / 2 section) or the Sachtler CF75 SpeedLock variant. Both are nice but the Cartoni is quite loud reg the locks if you re-close them and the CF75 is of a great quality and super popular + super fast to setup (but not as rugged as I would wish for - The E-Image are more stable funnily ^^). Well - There is no "holy grail" in general regarding tripod kits. And (sadly) you have to invest most of the time more than planned to get good performance. BUT: Its like a good monitor on your desk - It could survive multiple computers and a good tripod kit could survive multiple cameras / scopes / decades in general. So its a good point to invest in. For whatever application you´re using it. ^^ LG

@@AustrianGeek , Hello AustrianGeek, Thank you so much for such a detailed answer, your professional reviews and comments helped me a lot!

Its looking like a widespread / production error (mine was brand new, got repaired, and had the same fault a few weeks later again - Asked for my money back thankfully). Therefor: If you don´t want to risk having the same issue again, try to sell it off for spare parts instead of repairing it. The risk is high, that you have the same issue again in a few weeks. IF you want a repair on the other hand: dbxpro.com/support/repairs?geo=cn -> Its the official repair-information from DBX for China. LG

Friction - Like all s-series heads from Benro. If you want a "real" fluid head, then go for the BV4 or BV6 from Benro. Overall VERY well performing heads at a low price (also used sometimes super cheap available within some tripod kits from Benro on the used market). Actually I am still using a BV4 head as a super lightweight backup head. LG

Sadly it seems to be a common issue - Otherwise the 286s would be a "no brainer" to get. Btw.: I can recommend the Drawmer MX PRO 60 (pricey in comparison with the 286s - But good / no faults til now ^^). LG

Btw.: There is also the quite new "Behringer Ultravoice UV1" which offers similar features as the DBX 286s - Don´t know it in person. But check it out (could be an option) ^^. LG

The older one (which I showed in this video) not. But the new Focus ONE V2 seems to come with adjustable hard stops. Though keep in mind: With only one rod connector / clamp, I would recommend to use it only with metal rods (not carbon fibre). There is a chance that you over-tighten with the single clamp on a carbon fibre rod (so it stays in place) and you break the carbon fibres (especially with cheaper carbon rods it could be the case). Two rodded follow focus units doesn´t need that high of a clamping force. Just as a warning. Have fun shooting. LG