Ego is more attuned to their battery technology and software managing of power draw and charging. their design of the actual devices leaves alot to be desired. I have a first gen self propelled mower (brush motor) it works fine BUT the lever to propel wears down or is loose or degraded (possible corosion on contacts) and always engages at full speed and not the default slow speed it is set at). something is also likely loose as if I do not fully extend the push arms it seems to work fine. Common issue is that many manufacturers overcomplicate the design with too many features and less relaibility.

I bought an AGO chain saw. Biggest piece of crap ever! The chain would keep popping off. Could not see the bar oil level through the opaque window and the hole to fill the oil is tiny. Again, big piece of crap. Do not buy anything from this company.

I think I know why Ego is taking so long to honor my warranty. ope-plus.com/2024/04/01/chervon-reports-30-revenue-decrease/23328/

I called Ego about this. In this case, Solid red means: this battery in this video is a replacement battery Ego sent me when one from 2020 failed, This replacement was manufactured in 2023, but Ego says that warranties on replacement parts adhere to the ORIGINAL warranty, so when that 2020 battery warranty ran out, and this battery failed after barely a year (it is NOT overheated, it does this on a cold morning) it also, is no longer covered. I am on my own.

wow, today I crested 3 videos showcasing the deterioration throughout the day as the mower slowly marched into dying completely. Check my channel if you are morbidly curious, but here is what appears to be the final straw. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qqpxlpCGya2wcnU.html

Guessing it’s a security / immobilizer

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fsychdR_0c6vnXk.htmlsi=vI7oB_a9yiLuzIDf. everyone who has this issue needs to demand EGO repair their mower, they KNOW what this issue is, and they are sandbagging you if they do not immediately take it in. And STILL mine is broken. Then ask for a replacement. Texasprepper on some other videos comments, said they upgraded him to a 52" as a replacement. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j79yiNOHuJbGaJc.html

Guys thanks for all the watches and the comments. My mower will probably be returned to me tonight, at least 2 or 3 circuit boards and the display were replaced. Let's see how it does. I will let you all know what exactly was done to it, once I get it back.

I have the same issue right now. Were you ever able to get it fixed?

There's 5 lights on the battery. Each light represents up to 20% of a charge. When the 5 lights are on your charge could be anywhere between 80 to 100%. It must be closer to 80 percent on the battery, which is why the mower gave you 91% for all batteries. The LCD screen is also continuously re-calculating the percentage. It's sort of like the estimated fuel mileage on a car's lcd screen, which changes based on driving conditions. It can go up or down while mowing. In your situation it said 91 for awhile, you switched batteries around, no charge was being used, so it calculated 100 for longer running time.

Solid Red means overheated. Solid Red will not charge until it cools down. Your solid would not charge. If you leave it on the charger, the charger will start charging it once it cools down. Blinking Red means low battery. Blinking Red will charge. Your blinking would charge.

Same issue after 36 hours, but mine gives the Left Lapbar Error Code 412/311. Yours sounds like 413/312 for Right Lapbar. Originally it randomly stopped while mowing, but other days worked fine. Later it randomly wouldn't move after charging one day, but the next day worked fine again. 1st Repair Trip: Delivered it to them while it was moving. Diagnostics told the repairman that it was the battery compartment, and no other errors on his laptop. Ego told him that the battery compartment is a false alert when first hooking it up, but replacing them is common. They told him to do Updates and re-calibrate the bars. Then it was randomly working as usual so they though it was fixed, but a day after having it back it failed to move again after charging. 2nd Repair Trip: Delivered it to them with it not moving and the Error Code on the mower. Diagnostics again said to replace the battery compartment, and Ego approved it. After the repair it moved for the repairman. No other diagnostic errors were found. When I went to pick it up it randomly gave the code again, and wouldn't move. Repairman hooked it up to diagnostics while I was there. For the first time ever the diagnostics tool finally showed the 412 Error Code like the mower was saying. The software told him that the LCD Screen needs to be replaced. Now I'm waiting for that to be done. Manual says a 412 or 413 is the left or right rear PCB Circuit Board under the seat. Don't open while under warranty! Meanwhile, Ego Software doesn't mention the PCB Boards and instead says battery compartment and LCD Screen. After they replace the LCD Screen I'm expecting it to fail again, then they might finally replace the PCB Board like the manual says lol.

You’re pretty normal compared to my 7’1 cousin 😂

Thanks to all you commenters. I really appreciate it. If anyone does NOT have this issue, on their 2018-era X5M, please let us know. I think I got what I was looking for: confirmation that BMW is telling the dealers to tell us that the transmission on the cars that are afflicted with it, has been designed with this jumpy behavior at low speeds on purpose, because BMW thinks "it acts like a DCT". I have mentioned in a couple comments below, I think that is wrong-headed on BMW's part since I own or, have owned two DCT transmission cars that don't do this, and drive smooth as glass in a parking lot or garage.

I have an e92 325xi, and it does the same thing, replaced my transmission, switched to a square wheel setup, replaced my transfer case fluid, got my axles redone, deleted my front drive shaft. Still doing it, BUT ive noticed that it gets less noticeable after a long drive, so i made my peace with it. I guess it’s something related to a clutch engaging in the transfer case, or maybe thats just an xdrive thing.

It's the nature of the transmission; BMW tried to make the ZF8 look and act like a dct. There is no "park" so unless you give the car some gas it will act as if it is in neutral. You can test it on a gradient, let off the brake and after a few seconds, the car will roll.

DCTs do that

I had an m2 competition, has the dual chutch and it did the same

Why do you need it to open so wide?

Exactly why I bought the electric version. I’m done with ice.

M5 diff alot of work?

Nice car friend, doing the m5 brake swap now on my e66 4,8. Why did u change the diff to m5?

turns out the workaround is to refresh the window F5 which logs you all the way out of IBKR, then log back in and you will get control of the brackets again. What a pain.

Try to type the initials like I N T which might help.

Try logging in again in a window, and then click into another window and hit F5 (which is simply a command to refresh the browser page that is currently open).

Looks like you fixed the "problem"

There's also a guy that revs the piss out of his car around there too 😂

Bmw 760 li

There is literally no point in wasting all that money on foam insulation to stop condensation if you are literally going to cut a non air tight door in the side of the container... makes no sense unless you are adding a sealed door later. Also I have had a container for 10 years with two loaded snap on toolboxes in it, literally never had a problem with condensation at all ever, containers have vents as well to stop sweating at the top.

Do you happen to know if 37106890693 works on the 2016 i8 model? Because when I search for 37106884588 it takes me to the other part that says it's a 2019-2020 fit.

Thanks for the dissection of stock muffler :) Great to see those.

not the m6 loll

How did you correct that. Just got a new z06 HTC and have the same sound.

cross bow doesn't make any noise.

Rear shock failure. Take wheel off and you will see the inside part of damper is half way up the shaft.

3.0 megapascals is over 400 psi friend. You explanation of a higher torc value on the bolts to make the pump performance increase is ridiculous and clueless.

The market has bottomed at all-time highs?

Car brands say screw tall people, they don’t get to have a nice fast car. And I hate that trend. Just make it a little taller for taller people and you will Double your sales. Easy fix that never gets fixed by car brand companies

"Promo sm"

Same as Jason below, the bolt that came with my expander does not fit the harbor freight threads on the punch driver. The expander kit has much more coarse threads than the punch. Guess I'll be taking the punch back as it's like $98 these days.

I’m using a propane boiler

Hello mate need your help the heater has a live and a common connection in electrical terms of these are both lives, correct I want to wire up a external pump to this heater connection do I just need to take one of those lives and then the neutral from the hot tub so when the thermostat kicks in it would normally send the power to the heater but I want it to turn on a external pump. Will this work?

I had a similar problem, I replaced it and had it painted to match bumper and it hasn’t happened again…

How tall are you

Please tell me what kind of pumps are these from which Audi?

Hi, what kind of pump is this from Audi?

forgot to mention: USE GREASE on all surfaces that touch. Especially for thicker-walled tubing, like 16ga stainless. That WILL give you a challenge. "All surfaces" means: even put grease inside the tube you are expanding and on all touching surfaces of the tool.

Thanks for posting

Congrats man! I've been shopping around. 2LT and up with that front end lift is so hard to find because everyone wants it and even now they're still wanting way higher than MSRP for them.

Great video, the “pan flute test” seems like a quick and convenient way to test header length. Thanks for teaching me something!