Sorry to hear, so if your camper is similar to mine, and most are, there is only one positive and negative line going to hood vent. That’s because that’s soooo much cheaper than having 2 fuses in fuse box and 2 runs of wire running to same spot. Manufacturers are all about time and money so that’s highly unlikely. So if your light is working and fan is not you have half the work cut out for you. You know you have power and your issue is somewhere between switch and fan. If you cook a lot chances are the fan burned out. One way to check on fan motor is try and spin it by hand. If you feel any change in resistance as you cycle the fan switch you know it’s a blown motor. If you feel absolutely no change, chances are you have a loose wire inside hood, or a bad switch. Good luck!

@@damjanbjelanovic2346 very helpful info. Thank you I will check this.

So the reason behind that fuse is that it also acts as a regulator and pole reversal protection. Since LED lights are so sensitive if you give them 15volts or higher or reverse positive and negative it can burn out the led. So this is like last chance to prevent that. But I know my battery management is good and does not go above 14vdc and I’m not doing anything to reverse positive and negative so I’m all set.

@@SatelliteA135S4467 well I took my vent down and I don’t have that resistor/fuse thing. My camper is a 2010 model so they wasn’t installing led lighting back then. I have installed all led lights though. I think I may have a bad gfci outlet

Okay, thanks for more info. So your entire camper “should” run on 12VDC ONLY. Unless something was changed between manufacturer and now. With that said your hood fan and lights are 12VDC believe it or not. Just like in a car. Your GFCI is 110VAC and that’s completely separate from your lights and hood vent. So going back to your breakers, those are for your shore power (110VAC) so don’t look at those. Look for your small red and yellow and blue car style fuses. They are same ones your car uses. From what I’m hearing from you one of those either has bad connection or is blown but does not look it. Take them out one by one and give them full inspection. I turned everything in my camper on and as I pulled each fuse I saw what shut off and I labeled it at same time. Good luck!

Okay, thanks for more info. So your entire camper “should” run on 12VDC ONLY. Unless something was changed between manufacturer and now. With that said your hood fan and lights are 12VDC believe it or not. Just like in a car. Your GFCI is 110VAC and that’s completely separate from your lights and hood vent. So going back to your breakers, those are for your shore power (110VAC) so don’t look at those. Look for your small red and yellow and blue car style fuses. They are same ones your car uses. From what I’m hearing from you one of those either has bad connection or is blown but does not look it. Take them out one by one and give them full inspection. I turned everything in my camper on and as I pulled each fuse I saw what shut off and I labeled it at same time. Good luck!

Okay, thanks for more info. So your entire camper “should” run on 12VDC ONLY. Unless something was changed between manufacturer and now. With that said your hood fan and lights are 12VDC believe it or not. Just like in a car. Your GFCI is 110VAC and that’s completely separate from your lights and hood vent. So going back to your breakers, those are for your shore power (110VAC) so don’t look at those. Look for your small red and yellow and blue car style fuses. They are same ones your car uses. From what I’m hearing from you one of those either has bad connection or is blown but does not look it. Take them out one by one and give them full inspection. I turned everything in my camper on and as I pulled each fuse I saw what shut off and I labeled it at same time. Good luck!

Hope it helps!

You can also get a small 1pound propane bottle for those portable grills and get a $10 refill adapter from big propane bottle. Lot cleaner look.

Thanks! Best part about it is that it’s not permanent. I can go back to gas when ever I want. I just went through first bottle of propane. It was half full and lasted me quite a while.

Yea, these conversion will work great on those green Lowe’s lawnmowers. It works great on those small engines.

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The oil I used was straight from dealer. It’s a small bottle but it’s specific for this condition. Only Mercedes dealer carries it. They also have a tube of specific additive that is designed to repair the clutches. I used both. They costed me both under $30 Sorry I don’t have more info as the bottle is from dealer with next to no markings or description. They own copyright on it so no one sells anything like it.

The oil I used was straight from dealer. It’s a small bottle but it’s specific for this condition. Only Mercedes dealer carries it. They also have a tube of specific additive that is designed to repair the clutches. I used both. They costed me both under $30.

Mine only made a clicking noise under sharp turns in parking lot under low speed. Dealer and mechanics told me edventually it would stop moving car when it fails completely. Changed it before that happened.

That is what happens with these transfer cases. Once you reach 80k or so it starts clicking when you make sharp turns on parking lots. Later it will be every turn at traffic light too. It's not your gears or bearings. Those are just fine. The beauty of this car unlike other cars is that the car has additional clutch plates inside the transfer case. What they do is give 80/20 ratio where needed. This is what gives the Benz that amazing smooth 4matic drive. Well here is the problem. The dealer is asshole and they don't tell you that those plates are under extreme pressure and that they wear. When they do the residue gets collected in the oil. Since only 1 quart fits or so the oil must be changed every 30k. Than it will last. Now that it's clicking it's too late. There is one small temp fix. I did it and it lasted almost 2 years and it started clicking again. Than I said fuck it I'm changing the whole thing. Anyways, the dealer sells this special grease/oil specifically for that transfer case. It will resurface the clutch plates but the damage has been done. The clicking will go away for 6 months for sure. Than it will come back. The straighter you drive the longer it will last I think. Changing the oil was pain but since you dropped your transfer case than it will be easier. Good luck. O btw, there are clutch plates in the front differential and rear. They too need to be changed every 40k. But they can last 100k. Get those changed before its too late. The dealer wanted $5500 for new transfer case. So after i told them to run into a wall with a sharp knife, i called few junk yards and they gave me one from a rear collision car with 35k for $600. Car ran perfect afterwards! Call A & P Auto Parts 1 800 962 7222 they are a nation wide junkyard. They will find you a transfer case from California or where ever in the usa and crate and deliver to you. Good luck!

Yes, there are screws on top of transfer case. All the way around. They were all roughly evenly spaced around. There are about 3 screws at top that are a little difficult, but if you disconnect both driveshafts from transfer case and add support underneath transmission like you see in the video than remove the bracket that holds transfer case. Now the transmission rear end and transfer case are free floating. That's why it's important to have additional jack underneath transmission or you will break a engine mounts among other things. Now with help of friend start lowering that middle jack while friend is looking at top of engine so nothing gets pinched. You should be able to lower it just enough to pivot the whole Engine and transmission and transfer case towards the ground to remove the top bolts. Good luck!!! If you need better explanation let me know