If that doesn’t work or perhaps you might want to try this first, there’s another video on my channel discussing how to make an update to the G code. Add that line item to the G code and then re-run the bed, leveling sequence, and try a test print first.

If you find you’re still having some issues. There’s a G code update you can make. I have a video on that on my channel.

I can do that. I actually just finished prepping a new staff that I’m gonna leather out the handle on this weekend. Maybe I’ll do more of a tutorial style like your suggesting. I will say it’s kind of difficult to give the measurements but I can show you how I can get the measurements. I hope that’ll be enough to get you started. if I shoot it this weekend I’ll probably have it out by next week. Check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks for the feedback!

CONGRATS! Send me your email address and I'll get you hooked up.

I recently found a fix that solved this issue when it (yet again) creeped back up and my recommendations did not work. I'm editing a video on it, but short answer is: you need to add a line in your g-code after the 'G28 ; Home' line. in that line you will add: 'M420 1' (without the ' in it). For whatever reason, the auto-bed leveling results get erased in the slicer. that M420 1 line tells the g-code to recall the results of the bed leveling and use that. I am using CURA, each slicer may be different as to how to modify the g-code. heads up, you will only need to do this once. (video coming soon!). I hope this helps until then...

I took some chipboard off the back of an old legal pad, stood the tubes on end, traced them out and then just cut them and put a little bit of Elmer’s glue on the bottom to hold it on

After about a week, I went back over with the heat gun to kind of try to level everything out which it did. And then after you bringing it out and stuff, it did start leveling out.

@@PrimalEdge thank you!

By massive shifting, are you saying it shifts in the middle of a print? If that’s the case, that sounds like it’s most likely a belt tensioning situation if it shifts from front to back make sure the two belts are tense not so tense like a guitar string that’s gonna snap, but make sure it’s pretty tight and make sure they feel app Appropriate to one another so the left side is just as tense as the right side. Lastly, if it’s a left or right issue, check the belt tensioning along the gimbal.

@@PrimalEdge it is shifting in the Y Axis. As far as tension, I adjusted it several times and saw no improvement at all.

That’s something I’ll have to research. I haven’t ran into that yet. But now I’m curious.

@@PrimalEdge awesome can’t wait to see what you find out.

Glad I could help

How To Make a Leather Haversack (Indiana Jones has one!) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aqdzZJeau8qdqok.html I got it all off Amazon, believe it or not 😂

Yes, and no. It’s kind of like a balancing act. If you’ve ever seen anyone try to level a pool table or something like that you have to do it one section at a time and it’s kind of a process. So yes, in an attempt to fix one area you might then offset another area, but if you minimize your fixes and do a little bit here in a little bit there, you can level it out overall I had my problem in the front right corner, which is I think opposite of what you’re saying in the far left corner. One of the problems I ran into when I was trying to solve this. The first time was overcompensating. And I kept thinking every time I do one thing I’m making something else worse. So just take it step at a time and if you’re using test prints, they can be your best friend! There’s a few different types that you can use that I know or in Cura I can’t remember exactly the name, but if you look in the Keira menu, you’ll find different types of test prints you can do and there’s one that has I believe nine squares, and then a perimeter around the whole thing. That’s a great one to figure out where your deviations are at. I know it’s frustrating, but if you take the time to dial it in, you will absolutely be happy with this machine. I am. I’ve got two now.

@@PrimalEdge thanks for such a quick reply! I appreciate it. It seems that now I have plans with Kobra Max this weekend trying to figure this out. Thank you for your time! You do a great work not just informing of the fixed that Anycubic doesn’t bother telling customers about, but inspiring to keep on going and getting these precious perfect prints despite all the troubles with the printers!

@@RockerokBS thank you very much. Definitely keep me posted in this thread and let me know how things turn out.

I don’t like saying something can’t be done. And I’m not sure exactly how it would be done, but I know that people have used 3-D prints to make molds for casting in other applications. There’s a guy on KZfaq and I can’t think of the name of his channel, but he does this kind of stuff, and I know that I’ve seen him do 3-D printed molds for casting of smaller items. I’m quite sure it’s scalable.

@roberttolone

It’s never been smoked since the restoration. I just wanted it in good condition to remember my dad.

Is your leveling issue front to back or left or right?

I’m not so sure, I’m still trying to figure that out. I’m not sure how to figure that out. Like I said I’m still learning how to use the Kobra 2 max

@jenniferreidenberg322 OK, I’m gonna try to explain to you what I’m looking for in the answer. If you try to print an object and on that first layer do you notice some of the areas squeeze down really close and some of the areas are thick in the first few layers? There are a few print tests that you could do in the Cura slicer that will help you determine where you might be out of whack regarding the bed leveling.

Also, here’s a long form video, covering some more information on the Kobra: Bed Leveling Issues with the @Anycubic Kobra Max kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fdiclcyp08rah6M.html

I done some of the testing prints and it’s was right off the back messing up and some of them was way too close the plate and then I made some adjustments to the zoff setting and now I’m at 1.00 which I was trying to make it the same as my Vyper. Realizing that it’s not the same machines