is there a way to remove the headers once hammered in?

Interesting wee video.

TARDIS 😂 I’m subbing You could try lost PLA or lost wax. Use plaster as the initial coat around the wax

Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share your knowledge with us. Greetings from Croatia.

I needed to solder a GPIO header to a bananapi m4 zero for a project, but I'm possibly the worst solderer (Is that even a word?) on earth. This is really helpful. Great video!

You hid the step in which you made the thing even pullable. Why?

Love this design, especially the fact that it can be folded flat for storage - perfect. Thank you for sharing xXx

this is genius, should just use this type of header pin for EVERYTHING, no soldering needed forever.

Preheat the mold, the hotter the better.

Very nice, thank you

You should remove the blue plastic film thats covering your power supply under the right lid. It prevents the heat from disolving in to the air. It should be clean metal color on it.

Hello ppl here to do homework

May I ask you?How you melt left over on the spoon.?.Thank you

In Stock just order them for a project great video.

tendrías forma de pasar el link del programa porfavor!

nice

I notice this myself. air assist made the work dirty, so not best for all jobs. I have a lot of wide masking tape as I use it as a transfer tape for the designs. Might just stick it on and use air assist when necessary. Thanks for the video

Great Video! I very much enjoyed it!

I just gave you your 666th like. :D I've been looking at different setups for this and this seems to be the best and least expensive. Good job.

I was pricing up galvansied steel versions of this kind of DIY camera rig and watched may videos but your PVC design is much more attractive for small spaces - and I have that same desk! Have you used this with a DSLR camera? Does the structure suffer from not being glued?

What the f did you do?? I don't understand this video.

Hi ,i wish i seen your video as i arsed mine up.I ended up bending the pins and broke the thin perspex where the long rectangle is.It was a nightmare to sort the pins but once sorted ,i used the female gpio header on to the male header and repeated the process. This rescued an almost disastrous situation. The use of a adjustable clamp is a excellent idea which i will use in future unless i am lucky to purchase RPI with gpio headers soldered on. Thank you for sharing the video and the excellent tip (use of clamp)

GREAT JOB!!

¿Would it be possible to show days/hectodays/kilodays/megadays instead of days/months/years? I think it’d be neat if the decimal clock featured also a decimalised time path. For example, right now when i’m commenting this is 2022/06/04 01:27 but, following the human era/common era in kilodays, today’d be 4,738,310 d at 0.60 dd

I can’t tell you how much of a lifesaver this is! I’m definitely getting this soon!

When I added a 50L air assist to my k40 laser It turns on and off by itself, what is the SOLUTION please 🥺

Hi Rob, really like how clearly you describe your process. Thanks!!

do u have details of the grid u used

Just saved me $400 :) thank You sir

Whats the name of the green cube to make the connections?

I went through the exact process you did with purchasing that stamp material and my laser engraver not being strong enough. Even using foam. But I never thought the get adhesive foam. That’s awesome

i love the ladle tip, I will make one, so obvious but I didn't think of this

Neat! I wish they had distribution within the US. The shipping from the UK is more than the kit. :(

What power and speed settings did you use?

Can you suggest what clamps to use for this?

What's wrong with the supplied usb chief?

The result is a brand, yes, but it is NOT the same or even similar result to a branding Iron, that is just not the case.

Why did you put another grey thing in there?

First thing to say is safety! Never allow moisture/liquid anywhere near your melt pot, the result is explosive. Because your tardis is a solid block you will have quite a bit of shrinkage and sinks, to avoid this simply push a square of silicone into the centre of the mould so your casting will finish hollow and the best bit is you will only use a fraction of that expensive pewter! Daryle

😊😊😊

Great! But how can i get my custom logo on scrapwood?

or the Venturi effect .. Get a better pump i use an old fridge pump that's fan cooled massive difference and less passes to cut your item nice video watching them all lol ps the pvc pipe stand 20mm good idea for laser camera stand

lower the air for engraving to only keep the lens clean ( so 25 % of air if possible), for cutting, blow as much as you can..

Awesome video! Do you think the larger 100mm pots will melt zinc? I've seen them listed to go up to 480c

nice job, thanks for the tips

I love diy pvc projects! Thank you for sharing!

Very cool man. Thank you!

Thanks for idea.

hey, is this scrap pewter you used definitely 100% lead free? I want to use some to make jewellery but not sure if 'lead free' means 100% lead free... thanks!

I used this kit on other PCBs, but with the female connectors instead of the perspex bar applying the pressure from the top, and the whole lot squeezed in a small vice to apply pressure slowly and evenly. (Obviously no bolts in my case and remove the female connectors once done.) Not tested it yet but it seems to have worked a treat. Thanks for the creative 'spark'. I would have hated to have soldered or hammered this lot.