That's a good idea to use the lift to unload your pickup. I would have never thought of that.

Gotta make sure you walk them daily or they get to much energy and try running away

What wrench did you use to get those two bolts holding the valve selector Ive been trying to get them for about an hour lol

Man loves his calves and so do I❤

Chinese crap

Warning ⚠️ China 🇨🇳 beware..

The most miserable failures are happening with Chinese metal things. You tighten it too much and your thread is gone ezpz.

Looks cast. Should have been the first red flag. Then China the real red flag! Amazon red flag #3.

Great information

Those are some nice looking calves!!

Nothing wrong with making something work without spending a bank load of money!!

I watched on the "scotty kilmer" youtube channel where he used a "block tester" to check for a blown head gasket. It looks like a turkey baster that you dump a special fluid in and stick it in your radiator cap hole. I ended up buying one at Napa for like $23. My buddy also bought one at Napa and used it on his van and the color didn't change. Then he stuck it in front of his exhaust and the color changed. He was so relieved that it actually works and showed that he does not have a blown head gasket with exhaust gases in his radiator.

I had just been thinking that these 1970's pickups would make great donor engines for all the 1970's F600 and C60 2.5 ton grain trucks with the 16 ft. boxes on the road. I think a lot of those old grain trucks have tired engines on them. Nowadays it really isn't cost effective to rebuild engines or transmissions anymore, because salvage yard engines are so cheap and you at least know that they run, before you pull them out of the donor vehicle, rather than hoping that one that is rebuilt will even function.

In college my professor used the candle wax method. I tried it, but it still didn't work the best. I just replaced the exhaust manifolds on my 2003 chevy 2500hd 2 years ago. I watched "stephen cox" youtube channel's viral video of how to remove rusty bolts. He used a propane torch for removing the exhaust manifold bolts. That video was awesome. Unfortunately the chevy exhaust manifolds warp and actually break the heads off the bolts. I heated up the broke stud red hot with a propane torch and then welded a nut on the end and turned them out with a wrench. LOTS OF HEAT is what breaks the rust loose on exhaust system bolts and you need to keep them hot during the process. It took me three days, but I got both sides done. I told my brother don't ever ask me to change your exhaust manifolds for you, because it is so much work. lol

On my 895 versatile tractor I had just filled it up with diesel fuel and a crack occured about 3/4 of the way up the fuel tank and started pouring out fuel. This was not on a weld. Just the flat side of the tank. My cousins and me stuck the service tank fuel pump in the tractors fuel tank and pumped the fuel out until we got below the crack. I cleaned the crack with soapy water and JB welded it. It has held up ever since! Nowadays we use "the right stuff" by permatex to seal any oil leaks. It comes in a caulking gun tube and you can buy it at Napa. It says that it takes 24 hrs to cure, but from my experience over the years it takes a full 48 hrs to cure. Just remember with "the right stuff" gasket maker that you will never get the part off without destroying it. It is as strong as windshield glue. I used it to glue on the inside door panel of my Buick LuCerne, since the clips wouldn't hold. They actually have a youtube video of them using it to seal a giant hole in the engine block of a boat. They say the reason for this is that boat engines don't get over 400 degrees, because they are always pumping cold water in from the lake, rather than having a closed cooling system like a car. I also used the right stuff to seal a leaky water fitting on my toilet and it has held for years. My two favorite products are the right stuff and anti-seize. I put anti-seize on every bolt on my vehicles, because I know that I will be the guy who has to get those bolts off in the future when I have to do repairs.

I wish I had an answer on this one for you. I own a 1996 Cat 3176, 350 HP in my Freightliner semi. I have never had any driveablity issues with the engine, but that truck is so cold blooded for starting in cold weather. I have to keep that thing plugged in during the winter. My neighbor's semis have a Cat and a Cummins engine. They complain about how hard starting their Cat engine is. If I could have afforded it, I would have got a Cummins Diesel, but this is what was in my budget.

I see on bismanonline they have a 2012 Honda Foreman 4x4, foot shift with power steering for $2,500. I bought my 2008 Honda Rancher 4x4, foot shift brand new back in 2008. It is still on the original battery and the only trouble I ever had, was it would go into de-rate mode when I was running it hard on hot days. When I picked it up in the evenings it had all the power in the world. I replaced the electric fuel pump and it has been good for the last 9 years now. That fuel injected 4-wheeler will last me the rest of my life and it is only $700 for the engine rebuild kit. If you ever decide to upgrade, you should keep a Honda in mind. My neighbor's Honda 300 fourtrax 2wd's engine was getting really wore out and he rebuilt the engine himself and now it has all the power in the world again. He said it really wasn't that bad of a job to rebuild it himself.

When I had my 2004 Cummins diesel pickup the water pump went out at 130,000 miles when it was -10 degrees out. I ended up having to have the mechanic change it out for $407 since I don't have a heated shop. That will never happen to me again. Now on all my vehicles I change out the water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, spark plugs, spark plug wires and wheel bearings every 100,000 miles. Those parts are cheap and I need my vehicles to be reliable during the winter and on long trips across the U.S.

My brother bought a Case 970 and it had no reverse. He ended up splitting the tractor with 2 big harbor freight floor jacks and hauled the transmission down to Lemmon, SD in the box of his pickup. The guy replaced the bad parts with parts from the junk yard and when my brother put the transmission in, it worked perfectly. That Lemmon, SD guy is pretty popular with all the Case tractor owners!

I just bought my brand new 1100 ft. lb. torque multiplier on amazon 2 years ago for $263. That thing has been a God send. I could not break the crank shaft pulley nut loose on my Honda FIT to replace the leaking front main seal. That broke it loose, since it had been torqued to 600 ft. lbs. Normally for breaking beads on tires I set the handy man jack on the bead and place it under the hitch of the Case IH 5250, but that would not break the bead on my semi tire. I ended up have to drive over the bead 3 or 4 times with the 5250 tractor and that finally broke the bead.

The 1999-2006 GM 3/4 ton pickups were the best. Many of them on the "bismanonline" website have 360,000 miles on them. My buddy has 400,000 on his 2003 Duramax with the original engine and transmission, but he does change fuel injectors every 150,000 miles when it gets hard starting. His 2000 6.0L has 335,000 miles and has had an engine tick for the last 35,000 miles, but it keeps going. I just rebuilt the manual transfer case on my 2003 6.0L for $500 in parts and it really wasn't that bad of a job. Everything is mechanical. 2007 is when GM trucks went to active fuel management, where they shut off certain cylinders to save fuel and then the push rods stay collapsed and you have to tear apart the engine.

My grandparents drove their 1976 Chevy Caprice for 33 years before they traded it in. They also drove their 1970 F-250 4x4 for 30 years, before they bought a replacement pickup. They saved so much money by not upgrading over the years. It took them the full 30 years to hit 100,000 miles on the pickup. The Caprice probably did have 2 or 3 engines and transmissions put in it over the years, but still cheaper than a new car.

Thanks for posting the video for me! I just noticed that your farm is in central ND. Our farm is in western ND.

Thanks for the video! Our 5250 doesn't have forward or reverse during the last two winters, but during the summer the tractor works perfect. It sucks that it can just be used as a summertime tractor right now. It only has 5,500 original hours, but the hydraulic fluid has never been changed in it. I am hoping that the problem is that there is just thick sludge around the suction screen on the bottom of the case. I will change the hydraulic oil and hydraulic filter and clean the screen.

Nice

Russian propaganda here.

From one farmer to the other

I don’t get my hands dirty

👍

Are the 235s first?

Thanks. Just what I needed 👍

As of today this is my most successful short.

Try to drop it on its side or back so you don't damage the teeth😊

Aww, your band saw blade is so small and cute😅

That is how I would do it!!! A lot safer on the fingers.

That's really slick!!!

Noted

*Promo SM*

That’s not fun

What is the cost to rebuild this engine.

I was never fond of those toolboxes. They’re just too small and you can’t get enough tools in it.

Nice

Have to put that switch on the to do list,keep meaning to.

Clean up all those trip hazards then we can discuss that drill press.

now thats tuff

Forward. White out

Arrows forward and black letters out.

I hate directional wheels. 1 side always makes MY OCD go nuts lol.

Oh no

White letters out.