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@greggc8088 4 күн бұрын
The extra cooling offered by the louver is enticing but what about rain water? Is that a problem with the louver? I trimmed the fender liners a bit on my Jeep JK and installed a thermostatic switch with relay that cycles the fan on low when under hood temps get high and that helped tremendously. Especially since it will cycle off and on when parked during hot soak while in the grocery store etc. My Jeep is an 07 so the catalytic converters heat up the engine bay way more than I would like but I'll be doing something about those when replacing the clutch in the next 20Kish miles. Maybe sooner if I get irritated enough about the heat. Thanks for the video.
@KBWheelin 4 күн бұрын
I’ve never had any issues with rain water. Or any water for that matter. I mainly did it cause I like the way it looks but on my other jeep I know it helped with intake temps for sure!
@1Troutguy 13 күн бұрын
So does the thick red wire go to Positive on Battery, and you said you combined thick blk/white and thin blk, so do those 2 go to Negative on battery? and on the red/blk/green/yellow wires. Red would go to my sPOD, is the blk the ground? Since I have no lockers i can snip off green and yellow and by the thick red and white i can snip those 2 connections that are for the Front/Rear Lockers?
@KBWheelin 13 күн бұрын
Yes the thick blk/white combine with the thin blk wire to would go to ground. Blk is ground. Red/Yellow is acc power. Blue/white is the power from dash lights so your switches lite up. So you need those. Personally I would just make a new switch harness if I were you, since your running no lockers, save that harness for the future for if you ever get lockers.
@drome010381 19 күн бұрын
Super appreciate the honesty. Every video I saw made it seem like they should be free as a bird. Every sequence ended the same...smooth rotation with a decent amount of resistance. You finally showed me the resistance is expected.
@halewilson 23 күн бұрын
Were the bungs pre welded?
@KBWheelin 23 күн бұрын
Yes
@izharweaver9515 25 күн бұрын
I've been following your videos for over a year. I based my build off yours. Great work, brother!
@BrennenRutten-q6y 25 күн бұрын
Been watching your videos a lot lately. Really helped for a guideline. Im building a Yj on o6 f250 dana 60 in the front and 06 chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I got the barns jk truss im going with 3 link front with double triangulated 4 link rear. Using stock jk coil springs. 3 link videos were super helpfull. What are your thoughts on double triangulated rear. In that situation sould my upper and lower links be the same length?
@KBWheelin 25 күн бұрын
That’s awesome! Thank you for your support! Sounds like an awesome build, I think double triangulated 4 links are great and has less to no flex steer. Only reason I didn’t do it on this build was because I have place on running a doubler set up and didn’t want to have issues with the crossmember I would have to build for the links being in the way. Always go thru a 4 calculator to check everything but I pretty much have always ran same length uppers and lowers on a double triangulated 4 link
@bingobandit 27 күн бұрын
Great video. I want to get rid of my powertrax lunch box locker. I want to go back to stock spider gears. My question is when putting it's back together do I need to do the lash again? Will I have shims to deal with Dana 44 98 TJ.
@KBWheelin 27 күн бұрын
Technically speaking no. You are supposed to put everything back together the way it came out. The gears are worn together and should not be changed. Changes to the backlash could cause noises under acceleration or deceleration. Good luck with your project!
@jwillpin1599 Ай бұрын
I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
That’s awesome! Congrats. So on mine I did the upper link longer to help maintain caster while driving. But it’s still a balance cause you have to keep the driveline happy. Busted knuckle has a great three link calculator you can download for free that will help with running all the numbers and seeing how they will effect caster and pinion angle during travel.
@austinsanguinetti7483 Ай бұрын
How did you know how high to mount your upper coil tower prior to this?
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
I went over it in one of my other videos when I built the 3 link but it’s based off ride height and coil over length
@austinsanguinetti7483 Ай бұрын
Ok thanks, I'll check out that video, I must of missed it.
@edcasquejo2899 Ай бұрын
Hi, you said the self tapping screws you used are 5” long? Maybe you meant 5/8”? Thanks
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
#10 5/8in long
@by17s Ай бұрын
you using fluxcore or gas? been scared to start my yj build myself, tired of staring at it on jackstands. my 1 local shop that’s able to do it, still hasn’t gotten back to me…
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
Flux core. I did this project using it just to show it could be.It was a budget build kinda thing. Personally tho I like to use gas when possible but as long as the machine you use is big enough amps wise it doesn’t matter
@jasonedwards2730 Ай бұрын
Learning a lot on this channel. Please keep them coming good sir
@jwillpin1599 Ай бұрын
Hey buddy how goes it =) I have been studying your build like crazy as I'm building my yj. On this part or the video I'm wondering at ride height what is the distance that u have between the coil and the inside sidewall at the top of the tire. Thanks and all the best.
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
Hey hope the build is going great. The space between the tire and coil is all gonna depend on the backspace your wheels have I’m running 4.5” backspace and I’m around 4-5 “ of space between the coil over and the tire
@jwillpin1599 Ай бұрын
Awesome budy. I really appreciate u getting back with me. I will be sure to check my back spacing. I know I'm going to be running some steel wheels with 39s. All the best and again thanks for reaching out
@azimutazimut3165 Ай бұрын
why not use the press to press the ring into the locker assembly?.. I am curious.. some people say pressing the ring into the locker is the right way.. other people say whacking the ring into the locker assembly with a dead blow hammer is the right way.. other people heats the ring to 200F and freezed the locker assembly.. other people use the bolts to drive the ring into the locker body (although some people say this is not a good idea as it could deform the locker assembly flange where the ring rests... Thanks!
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
Ok personally I feel like it all depends on the situation and how tight the ring gear is to the carrier. In this case is wasn’t overly tight so a few hits with a dead blow was all it needed. I don’t ever like pressing them on is the right way cause I had a ring gear shatter once and just never have done it since. Now preheating the ring gear is the right way for sure when it is overly tight. Hope that all makes sense lol
@DraKin609 2 ай бұрын
What part number for locker and install kit did you use?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
RD158 for the locker and then LM104948 / LM104911A for the bearings
@kevinunger433 2 ай бұрын
Needed this. Thank you
@mikeharrison6570 2 ай бұрын
Mine has a brown wire for drl how should I wire that? Or do I have to? Mine round lights is what I mean. I haven’t gotten them in yet on my 93 yj.
@ccasson19 2 ай бұрын
How did you get up travel clearance for upper links. I’m running into hitting the cross member the stock mounts to
@ccasson19 2 ай бұрын
Stock tank.
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
I notched mine
@ccasson19 2 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin that’s what I’m gonna have to do also. Was just slightly worried how integral it would be with the shock towers putting stress right in that area. But in order to not have to notch it my belly height would be like 26”. Like you said in one of your videos it’s a lot of give and take. How’s the anti squat on your setup?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
@ccasson19 I’ve done it a few different ways on different builds. I’ve removed it and put dom across farther back down the frame rails. I had one build I removed it completely but that one haded a rear bumper that was welded to the rails. I don’t remember what this build calculated out to on the anti squat I think it was 90 percent but don’t remember lol plus I raised the ride height and in with the clovers which effects it too but it performs great.
@ccasson19 2 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin thanks for the info. Never done this before and your videos have been a huge help
@ClassicSteelRC 2 ай бұрын
This is the best video I've ever seen about suspension triangulation. I totally get it now! Thanks for posting it! I'm scratch designing and building my next RC chassis and was hoping not to need a panhard bar.
@richthevirtuoso 2 ай бұрын
Hey all, great video man. Thanks, I have a question. The air controller box that comes with the locker.. will it be able to be hooked up to a different onboard air supply and work correctly? I want to be able to use an onboard for filling tires as well
@justino8935 2 ай бұрын
Very helpful thanks for posting
@memetime4429 2 ай бұрын
What type of steel did you use?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
DOM
@dabrownconservative7843 2 ай бұрын
What about positioning of the truss. In regards to pinion angle. How do you know the truss is in the right position? Im asking because i meed to install a truss on my dana 35 for my tj.
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
Pinion angle is set thru the link arms.
@dabrownconservative7843 2 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin so what do you align your truss with, as far as reference point?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
@dabrownconservative7843 I guess it really depends on the truss I am using. If it’s cut for that specific axle I even the spacing on the front and rear. If it’s a universal truss I mock everything up with my pinion angle set then level the truss and burn it it. Hopefully that makes sense
@Stu-Nyce-id8ku 2 ай бұрын
Do you have the Yukon puller? It works pulling off the pinion bearing?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
I have a different brand clam shell puller but it’s the same thing and yes it works great
@alexrateliff4784 2 ай бұрын
This is the best sterling build video I've seen yet. Thank you!
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@jeff503 2 ай бұрын
Thank you for making this video, well done. It sure would be nice of ARB to give the option. Gotta bitch about something haha.
@austinsanguinetti7483 2 ай бұрын
Which pitman arm did you end up using?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
I ended up using a stock arm
@MIWanderWoman 3 ай бұрын
Hey!!!
@nonsequitur807 3 ай бұрын
Heard a lot of good things about those Patagonias
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
Been loving them for sure
@nonsequitur807 3 ай бұрын
Nice! Love it when a plan comes together.
@valzlan3321 3 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for explaining the notch reverse thread, had no idea. What amp setting do you use for these heim links? What setting would you use for heim tie rods?
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
No problem. I’m pretty sure with these links in particular I was running at 140 amps but it all comes down to the thickness of tube your using
@kevinvan9883 3 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video. I ordered a couple off of rock auto and they were a little to big. Can you please share the amazon link.
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
I put it in the description
@jackrussellville 3 ай бұрын
You skipped the first part about how to get the axle shafts out I am having a hard time getting the clips out of the axles
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
This is just how to remove a lunchbox locker from a carrier. As far as removing the c clips Remove center pin. Each side of locker consists of 2 ratcheting sleeves. Slide them apart and push wheel/axle shaft inwards. C-clip will come out between the two.
@dontoday 3 ай бұрын
My cyber truck could do that with ease 😂
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
🤣
@Omletio 3 ай бұрын
And then be out of power 20 minutes after lol
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
@@Omletio 🤣🤣🤣 💀
@danielhobbs3808 3 ай бұрын
Where did you buy the bracket for the compressor??
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
Link should be in the video description. It’s from motobilt.com
@whi55l1 3 ай бұрын
Hey dude, nice install video! Just wondering how its going with the self tappers? Any issues to be aware of?
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
Still holding great. No issues
@Gregmcd10 3 ай бұрын
I have a dana 50 and replaced carrier and ring and pinion. I have endplay in the pinion after tightening fully, should it be shimmer behind the outer pinion besring race?
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
No shims behind the outer race. There go behind the inner race our behind the bearing on the pinion head. Did you start with the oe shim stack?
@Gregmcd10 3 ай бұрын
Yeah, I went back in with the same shim thickness between the pinion head and the inner bearing. There were no shims under either pinion race though.
@Gregmcd10 3 ай бұрын
I now have .035" of end play on the pinion fully tight. It never gets tight enough to set rolling torque.
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
@@Gregmcd10 there should be non under the races you run either behind the inner race or behind the pinion bearing not both. You have the crush sleep removed for set up correct? Or are you on final assembly?
@Gregmcd10 3 ай бұрын
I have the sleeve in. Wouldn't that change the pinion depth on that side though?
@Julianconanhernandez 3 ай бұрын
Very cool video thanks, is it possible to remove without taking it out of the axle housing?
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
It is but it’s a giant pain. Way easier to deal with on a bench plus depending on gear ratio the center pin might not clear the ring gear
@alvinrosa2281 3 ай бұрын
😃 P R O M O S M
@baileydaniel2881 4 ай бұрын
Do you want the mount on the axle as wide as possible for better stability?
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
A major reason is adding strength thru triangulation.
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
There is a lot of reasons it’s a good idea and things it effects but the short answer is yes.
@ITSNOTMEITISYOU 4 ай бұрын
Put a 50 in my Comanche using an Artic truss and machined the knuckles for TMR hi steer arms. I’ll have it on the road eventually lol. What size tire are you running on the 50’s you use? Appreciate the video
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
That’s super cool I love Comanches! I’m on 40s
@ccasson19 4 ай бұрын
You should do a longer video on how the suspension set up on lime time is working. I’m using you build videos as kind of a how to on my yj build. Looks good though
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
Yeah I have been tossing around the idea of doing a kinda walk around video on the build so that’s not a bad idea thanks! Awesome good luck on your build!
@ccasson19 4 ай бұрын
Thank you for making this YJ series. Just found your channel doing research for my own YJ crawler project. I was feeling overwhelmed that I was goi g to have to spend a fortune on a kit which would have been impossible for me to do on a disabled vets fixed (and very low) income. I now feel like with some universal parts it’s something obtainable for me. Thank you again
@rayvillarreal1139 4 ай бұрын
Great video, keep putting them out! Like the way you break it down.
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
Thank you! Really appreciate that!
@seanmiller2316 4 ай бұрын
Brilliant video, such a huge help. Front and rear lockers are independant of each other now.
@broncobart4354 4 ай бұрын
Excellent video!!! I wish I would have seen this prior to installing a gland nut! QUESTION PLEASE! So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
So two things I would say first 1 have you already been driving around on them? If so leave them cause they wear in and you don’t want to make changes on them after driving you want to complete the break in proses and leave them in my opinion. 2 aftermarket gear sets are known for being noisy in different ways depending on on the brand I have installed Yukon gears and everything was perfect yet they had a noticeable noise on the freeway compared to my motive gears.
@broncobart4354 4 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for replying! I put about 14 miles on them slow and easy under 45mph as I was trying to complete the first break in/heat cycle so the phosphate coating is about gone. I'm definitely thinking this a gear quality issue given your opinion and other's I've read. I'm going to send these back and try a set of Motive's. I've installed a few Yukon sets in the past and they didn't whine on coast like these do. This isn't the first time I've built a differential, but it is the first time I've done a set of 4.88 Yukon's. I really appreciate the input sir. I've also noticed the factory B/L spec is .010-.015". Obviously we want to go with the gear manufacture's recommendation which for these is .006"-.010". I'm sure the pattern would move towards the heel with that much B/L for this set of gears. Thank You again for your time and advice sir. Happy Wheelin! @@KBWheelin
@user-pc8br1ji1k 4 ай бұрын
Do u keep the shims on the axle side ?
@user-su1zz7wd6z 5 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@briandilley2590 5 ай бұрын
Well done Sir.
@mjenner89 5 ай бұрын
A new video! 🎉🎉🎉