Se puede usar con lentes ópticos? Can i use them with optycal glass?

No part 2?

Just found a vintage pc version. The keyboard looks almost new but the power supply looks like a pet went to town on it. Despite the repairs, it does work. Looking forward to the dos box instructions.

Great video. I would like less details and talking and getting quickly to changing out the blades. But, great job. Thank you.

Fantastic, thanks for this! Glad you can use Win10 directly as I think an XP VM might be a bit finnicky. Grabbed an MU2000 for just under 130 quid from Sendico - very much looking forward to receiving it!

Thanks!

Do u really need to replace the cable? Can u just move the black cable to corresponding country and then use a internal converter at the jap plug?

If you're screwing a screw that has a thread meant for plastic (ie. a self tapping thread) it's a good idea to turn the screw slowly counter clockwise until you feel a very light click and start screwing clockwise. That will ensure that the screw doesn't start a new thread.

Thank you for your help 😊

Thank you for this review. Are these rebranded masks? On amazon they have a lot of similar looking ones with the same app.

Whats the lag like? Picture and controller input?

One question i hoor you can awnser! Mine just arrived and nothing happens when pushing buttons. Now charging for 30 min and still no sign of charging??

I want to buy for shipping to Brazil without being taxed, what is the possibility?

I want to buy this but a lot of reviews online are talking about software problems and the mask not working or battery failures or wifi connection problems? Do you have any update on this maybe? Thank you!

I think that from the graphic card the hot air comes now on your soundcard ?? The Graphic card takes fresh air under below and the hot air comes now out on your sound card !! Maybe you have to put also the graphic card vertical with a riser ??

I mean it looks cool but that has to get extremely uncomfortable after a bit. You really need a top band in my experience

Glad it all worked out, it looks really slick all put together like that. And thanks for the shout-out, too! Happy I could help with your project.

I'm having the same issue as i have this motherboard. The battery holder that i ordered from the description is just a bare siver wire on the end. Could you explaing what i have to do. Also the faceplate that you took off is it possible to leave it off? There is no way of getting it off without removing the motherboard entirely ?

@RetroBoomBox I managed to fix it! Funnily enough, replacing the CMOS battery did not fix my boot errors, however, it turned out that all I had to do was remove my C: M.2 Drive under the MB frontplate, which then loaded the BIOS (finally) & then I put it back in again. 🙃 Being able to get to the BIOS then allowed me to test if my CMOS fixed worked using the little toggle switch - which it has! So that has now fixed all my little minor errors like fan settings. So that hell is finally behind me! Thank you again for all your help posting this video. You have helped me massively reclaim my PC’s former glory again 🙂. Was bricking it the entire time having the motherboard so naked, basically like open heart surgery lol. Hey at least it also has new thermal paste now also 😅 Rock on mate, many thanks ☺️

Hi, do you know the part number of the 2 pin connector?

I have no idea why user electronic companies thought it was a good idea to make a battery change so involved. They could have designed it more like an effects pedal or even a watch. I'm sure the evil bean counters had something to do with this. Great video. Very easy to understand.

Im getting "No app found to handle this file" - any help regarding this?

Hola, buen vídeo. Se pueden subir gif personalizados o solo aceptará el primer fotograma del gif? Gracias. 😁

Great review on setting it up to get started

Hi can you provide link where to get the large OLED display on top of your case nice one..

Thanks for posting this video & in 4k! =) I built a ridiculously overpriced PC for uni back in like 2017-18 that used this motherboard + the i9-7980xe. The CMOS battery died on me last year but I've been ignoring it by leaving my computer permanently plugged into the wall lol. I just moved flat and now it is giving me Code A0 & BS - CMOS Error, so I cannot avoid this hell any longer. The last time I looked into this, I saw a horror story on Reddit over a guy who had to dismantle his water loops to remove the motherboard & soldered a battery holder onto the board, which massively put me off. Your video showed me that while it still is a pain in the bum, it's not so bad as I was making it out to be. I'm likely going to have to do exactly what you did but next weekend over the easter break. I just need to make sure I wire the correct wires together, but hey - that's why they are Red & Black right lol? Also, which IDIOT engineer looked at this board & thought - oh yeah, what this needs for the single serviceable part is, lets put on a laptop battery on instead & make it completely inaccessible. I'm going to have to dismantle my x4 1080 Ti's in SLI for this crap. Anyway, thank you so much for posting this & linking the Amazon parts. I will let you know how the critical operation goes... EDIT: I see that you attached the new battery holder to new laptop battery end which then plugs into the board, do you have a link for that? If not, I will just use the original one as I'm not particularly familiar with Laptop CMOS batteries aha!

The new Fire Tv system doesnt allow any outside apk :/

I really want to get this thing but have no use for it. I want it just so I can have it.

mine didnt work i tried it - would u suggest i use superglue on the back of the drawbridge adapter pcb controller ?? so that it keeps it together ? thanks........... can u make a new one of these using a brand new drawbridge for me ? someone1? thanks........ because mine didnt work thanks...............

i got one of these - mine didnt work properly - maybe if i superglued it in would it work then ?? thanks........

I'll probably have to get a different strap since the bobovr is still putting too much pressure on my forehead. Does anyone have any tips?

A bit late but I have the hex codes for all the colours of the Sinclair rainbow Red = #F24C3D, Yellow = #E6DF15, Green = #66DD23, Blue = #24F0FF and Black = #161614. Still trying to get hold of the Dark Grey hex code for the Datacorder sticker as1 I am replicating it. Also good job with the paints, I used a chrome paint pen for the the silver text.

Thanks. Have you done a video about keyboard mappings? ...Do the LEDs function in any way?

In my case I had to charge the control first

I have taken apart the anolog wheel and found it is controlled by x2 light dependant resistors (LDR) there is also a small clear disc the sits over the top of the LDR that should have black liquid inside but over the past 30+ years mine has evaporated or something? there is also a strange shape metal disc that sits over that to control the amount of light passing through as to move the wheel, then the LED is on top of that I have however tinkered and managed to get it working to a degree, not great but it works. I've tried various things by purchasing 10mm coin capsules from ebay and trying to fill them with various dark fluids, water, oils etc..... but these did not work very well because they were 0.5mm to big and became to fragile / break easy. The best method I found was using isopropyl alcohol and adding it to the original capsules because black stuff was already inside. I used a syringe needle and heated up the tip to melt a small hole in the side of the disc and filled it up about 85% because it needs a bubble to allow light to pass and the dark fluid to block it, that's basically how it moves froward, backwards, left and right. The first led / LDR is easy to see, the bottom one is alot harder to take out as there is no room, and the fear of breaking plastic which you don't want to do, you only need to remove the LED sections as the other parts are molded in and you won't get them out without breaking plastic box part. I lifted the exposed led housing as I found it helps to remove the whole led housing from the lower part, (not easy but it will come out) If you manage to get it out remove the thin metal disc, NOTE (it's a different shape to the other one so don't get them mixed up. Next you can just about lift up the coin capsule thing to get it out and hopefully do your repair. You can also test the LDRs but the clear / red LEDs must be removed enough you can get to the LDR sensor, you can now either measure with a volt meter or when game is running and all plugged into your amiga mouse port, next by shining a light into the sensors I believe this will turn left on one sensor and accelerate with the other sensor, if you make it totally black (cover over with a towel or something then it will do the opposite by slowing down and turn right. I have rebuilt mine but it's not great as it's probably not enough liquid, or not dark enough perhaps, I also had to put some tape over the odd shape disc thing to restrict more light geting it working better, i believe the black fluid is not dark enough to close the light form the red led fully but it needs to be thin liquid to move quickly enough, that's why I used isopropyl alcohol. I have to hold my wheel off centre for it to work if the box is sat in square, if i put it like a diamond shape it works with wheel straight so something is still not 100% I also had to try to work out the best angle for the sensor box to work when I was just holding the box in my hand before i rebuilt it but I did it by using the game for best result, well that's what worked for me anyway. Good luck if you attempt this, and get it working better than me, I would love to know if you do anything different.

I own both the digital version and anolog freewheels, I also own amigas 500, 600 and AGA1200. The digital freewheel works straight out of the box on all amigas, if you attached pedals on 600 and 1200 there is no problems at all. However attach the digital wheel only to the amiga 500 and it works great, problems will starts when you add the pedals, you are no longer able to turn left or right, I've never found out why it only affects the a500? The anolog version is a totally different story, I've never got this to work correctly on any of my amigas?

No battery buzz whatsoever here. This is a very comfortable headstrap for me, the only thing I wish it did better was not move around because the weight makes it feel wobbly Update: After a week of use, I've decided I am going to purchase the Kiwi Elite strap with 10,000mAh battery; and sell the BoboVR M3 Pro for as much as I can get for it. I'm not even sure what I'm doing different, but whereas it fit really well when I first got it - it now feels annoying on my head and I can't get it to sit quite right. Also, the 5200mAh battery is stupid. They know the power-draw on the Q3 is quite a bit more than Q2, yet they stick with the same old battery? Gives me about an extra hour-and-a-half, which is nice but not enough.

This a good idea using an headphone amplifier to split the signal. Just need to be careful with the volume to avoid clipping

Have been fighting with next to get it connected to WiFi on my meshed router... and it didn't work... was forced to set up my old single unit router and it worked directly... any tips how to handle wifi setup to meshed routers?

I play pcvr with link cable so the battery is just a counterweight for me. The strap is way better than the kiwi design strap, at least for my head

Can you do the same with a Roland MT-32??

Super frustrating.. when there's no picture at all it's hard to know wjere it went wrong. Double-checking the 5V is where it should be and confirming that the "in" of the composite mod is connected to pin 16 of the ULA and not shorted or anything would be my first instincts. Finally, it might be the television thats not liking the signal - I've got a video capture unit thaf simply refuses to display an image despite it recognising a video signal. Hope you can get it working again.

Why not connect to the faster vampire IDE port?

Is there any way you can make a video on the steam link again or try to explain in detail because when I get the web page up after typing in Steam link on downloader I click on the link for steam link that takes you to the Google Play store and it loads un and it stays on the page for like 5 seconds and then you get web page not available and anything I do I cannot resolve this. Please help if you can

A question my friend,can this be used on a modern W11 PC to play older games with midi?Im using Xg softsynth for now.

This is amazing! I use Protools for recording music and to "record and play", you have to press '3' on the keypad of the keyboard, which is awkward when youre trying to get ready to do a take! this might solve my issue. it seems i will have to set it up on a windows computer first and then i can just use it on the mac. Hopefully it'll all work okay!

Ive got a normal pc/mac usb floppy drive (iomega) Do i really need that gadget?

I backed the 2nd Kickstarter in September 2020 and received my Next in December 2023, so a bit of a delay seems to be the norm. I'm not complaining though, because Henrique and the gang faced a slew of problems this time around: Covid, chip shortages, and whatnot, but they were always sending out updates about the situation. Anyway, when the machine arrived, I was pleased to see that it was really well protected during shipping: The inner box, the "Display Box" if you like, had a foam "sleeve" on either end so that it couldn't rattle around inside the outer box (shipping box). Furthermore, the inner box had inserts made of foam instead of cardboard, so here again it was very well protected. Additionally, the KS2 campaign was such an overwhelming success that the team decided to max out the RAM to 2MB on all machines, as well as installing both a Real Time Clock and a WiFi module. Mine is also the accelerated version by the way. As the icing on the cake they also included an inline power switch like the one you showed in the first video. Furthermore, the manual was even printed in colour, and there was also a very beautiful Quick Start Guide included. The best thing, however, was that my Next arrived right on my Birthday! :D - As you can probably imagine, that made me very very happy. Conclusion: All in all I find that the Next is well worth both the money I paid and the delay I endured.

Hi, thanks for this excellent video. I tried to download the software but the pcsensor website is not reachable. Is there anywhere else I could download the software from? I would really appreciate your help, thanks.

I have a 80mb quantum fireball scsi hard drive in my 1200.