Are you sure you are getting the exact same error codes? It would be odd to get errors relating to the exhaust flap if you don't have one! You can get lots of errors that bring up the "check pollution system" error.. you need to use a code reader to find which you have (which could relate to all sorts of things, for example a glow plug failure can even bring it up, as the renault uses glow during engine warmup to get the engine up to temperature quicker).

Mechanic needs to look at live data which shows percentage flap is open. If this percentage doesn't match where ecu has commanded it then you will get the error. It could be the wiring is damaged as it does run stupidly low down as it goes from flap to under bonnet.

You can also watch position data in your scan tool as you move it manually.

That's our Mr fluff.. we love him very much ❤

Glad the video was of use :-)

Those are electrical metal condiut tubes, like these: www.screwfix.com/p/deta-round-steel-galvanised-class-4-conduit-tube-20mm-x-3m/7734J

They all have the same design and so could independently fail in the same way I guess..

Hi, Yeah sure no worries. I watched it happen. The lorry didn't see the car in the lane beside it as it was level with the cab. He then moved into that lane and clipped the rear of the car causing it to Spin sideways. The hgv then shunted the car down the road.

Yeah I did spend a bit of time off camera trying, maybe hot water would have helped. I was because it was brand new from the packet. As the final pipe is really thin it didn't seem to matter much for the flow thankfully.

It copes with the thrust of my 3 horse power. Think anything more than that would pull the back of the boat down too much.

yes I know that's why I ask xD I have a 48v trolling motor with 110lbs and 6 Chinese HP and it pushes down very hard

Yeah it gets enjoyed a lot along the motorway to work twice a week and used hard pulling our 2 tonne caravan. Mind you, you can hardly tell its behind you!!

Hi, I didn't have to put the card in at all, because my model has the keyless start. However as the key was in my pocket when I performed the brake-off task this is likely the same as having put the card in (you'd have not achieved ignition-without-start state otherwise). When I went to the bonnet to disconnect the battery the keycard came with me. Providing your removing the keycard doesn't reapply the brakes I would suggest taking it out at that point. Then when you reconnect the battery it will probably let you reapply the brakes regardless of the keycard in/out. I think the brakes can always be applied, it is taking them off that requires the keycard to be in the slot (or present in the case of keyless entry).

It still worked well last year (a year after buying) at cooling my 4m x 4m room. Taking about an hour to bring the room down from over 25 degrees to 10 degrees. Of course it depends on how hot your outside is, the size of the room, and how well insulated it is. I would say for cooling a single large room it is pretty good for the money.

Worked well for a long time yeah. Had to do it again last week, but it's not hard.

Ok thank you so much I will make this week to my car thank you 🤠

Every car I have ever worked on has a screw on the place where the door opening handle is, so I expect you have one there. There's generally one close to the grab handle too. Outside perimeter of doors sometime have screws and aways have fir tree clips that are prised off

​@@jtq4uthanks. I have it sorted 👍

Hi I didn't need to remove anything to expose it, it was visible in the tunnel. Do you have an obd error that confirms an exhaust flap is your issue. I am not sure how the 1.5 causes the pressure difference to increase egr flow. Some vehicles use a exhaust valve, others use a throttle valve

I guess it could be the clip that holds the window to the mechanism. To be sure you might try driving without the door card on, and then you'll get a better idea of the cause.

Hi Eddie, A very good question. I do think it potentially loosened some of the compacted soot in the exhaust and I havn't had another 'red' error since. I can't definitively say it worked as my behavior has also changed, in that once a week I request a Regen when I am on my last long journey of the week (before the ineveitable shorter journeys over the weekend).

Glad it worked for you :-)

Can you move it by hand? When you do move it by hand do the position readings change? Position sensor on replacement one could be broken.

Yes the value does change when operating the valve by hand. Is there any way to rectify the faulty position sensor ? Thank you for your response by the way I highly appreciate you taking time out of your day to assist.

The only fault displayed on the diagnostic tool is "exhaust air flap jammed open"

@@nicolasfrancis3248 Just after you stop the engine the ecu sends messages to the flap to move it a bit. I am not sure what the intention of this is, but if yours doesn't move it would indicate there's an issue with the motor in your used replacement. They are sprung open, so this is the position it would fail to in that case. Another thing you could try would be uncliping the spring and moving it to a mid position and then starting the car. The car should move it back to open position. Make sure you put the fail safe spring baxk on afterwards. If the motor is dead perhaps move the one over from your old flap. I assume your old flap was siezed but that the motor worked.

So the motor itself isn't the problem , as it is turning the flap. The motor fully turns the spring to its "unnatural position" . It seems as if the flap is not getting the correct information to base it's movements because as soon as I start the car the motor turns to its maximum and stays there. I'm not sure if maybe the ECU is not giving the correct commands or if maybe there is a sensor in the exhaust which will provide the ECU with the necessary information which would determine the position of the air flap. Do you think the EGR sensor or DPF sensor could influence the operation of the flap ? The car has 22000km mileage .

What did you do to me? I can't stop laughing now! 🤣

Glad it was useful to you. Us DIYers need to stick together, we are a withering community!

The one pictured worked correctly. When they don't work it doesn't move, or moves really slowly

That's odd, and presumably related to disconnecting the battery and upsetting it's sensitive nature. You say when you go to set the time it shoes the right time. Where do you see the wrong time.. what shows when the radio is turned off on the sat nav screen? By the way a few weeks back we put a new battery in the scenic and it showed dashes after.. but then after listening to the radio for a bit it corrected it self. We assumed it got the time from the radio.

Well the dashes --:-- show on the Sat nav while off or on. But when I go in to manually change the time it's keeping the correct time that I set. I find it very strange. I've changed out the battery once before but I didn't have this problem. I will let you know if the clock fixes itself while driving like you said. Also thank you for the timely response that's awesome. 😎

@@jmantwild9373 No worries - do let me know if it does. I reckon there is a good chance it will - as I say ours did. It is always nice when things 'self heal' ;-)

Well it worked but only after I turned the radio on for a while. I thought it would get its signal from the Sat nav not the radio but I guess they both use radio waves. 😅

You know what really has me confused is if it uses radio waves for the time then why do I need to set it, also why doesn't it automatically adjust for daylight savings time. I guess some things are meant to be a mystery.😂

? You clearly disconnected the battery at the beginning of the video. My question was after you disengaged the electric parking brake did you turn the car completely off with the parking brake still off and then disconnect the battery or did you disconnect the battery while the car was still on.

Okay I've got my answer. You can't turn the car off with the parking brake disengaged because it automatically re-engage itself. So you leave the car computer (the instrument panel) on and disconnect the battery.

I was worried that if you left the car computer on that it could get messed up when disconnecting the battery. One last tip for the other people always disconnect the batteries negative side first and then positive. Do the opposite to reconnect.

@@jmantwild9373 apologies for the confusion regarding disconnecting the battery, it was a good while ago and the video remembers it much better than I do ;-)

@@jmantwild9373 you do in fact only need to disconnect the negative.. disconnecting both sides makes no real difference.

Glad you found it useful. Always good to share what we learn!

Glad the video was of use, it is good for everyone if we share such adventures online:-)

You can't push the piston back in before first backing off the screw threaded hand brake mechanism from the rear. This is done either as I show with a battery.. or via the special computer tool.. or by removing the motor from the rear and manually turning the screw behind it. If you try and push the piston back in without doing this then it will not go in and will cause serious damage.

I've just done it with a pair of pliers. Wound the piston in, just like a screw. Had to apply a little force on it, like pushing it in, but all went well... Just leave the car in gear, no handbrake, shut of engine. Lift up back end (or whole car if you're on a lift) and do it "the old school way" Never had any problems that way. Or though I will admit, it looks a whole lot easier, winding it back with power...👍

@@kristianskov4841 on a scenic? Surprised that worked without damaging the motor gearing. Also when I took one to bits it had a carriage that moved up and down a thread, I don't think the piston actually turned in normal use.

Hi, Yeah Same issue. If it gets stuck open then your main issue will be that the DPF will not regenerate (it won't do so if there is any error code). Another side effect is that the EGR won't work properly (but we won't care about that!). Stuck closed would affect engine performance (as well as again stopping the DPF regenerating). I have loosened mine off multiple times over the years, rather than pay for a new one. It can be quite some effort to get it loose sometimes, but I can always do so in the end. It is usually then a year or so until it sticks again. The spring has now also snapped on mine (which means it can't automatically return to the open position, but the computer still moves it to open). I suspect the spring is a fail-safe item so that if there is a wiring issue it moves to open. If it ever sticks so hard that I can't free it then I will consider putting a new one in. The part costs about £180 by the way. to fit it you use an exhaust cutting hand tool, and then two exhaust joiners.

@@jtq4u thank you very much. I will see how it performs and act accordingly. Here in Greece, Renault wants 700 Euros for the repair, as they sell the exhaust part with the valve on it. I suspect that 180 pounds is only for the valve, which is whats needed?

Hi I use a 3hp seagull on it. Works well. Tips a bit at the back. 3hp is definitely the limit.

@@jtq4u Thanks, I'll review my plans and drop the idea of a 6hp motor unless I can come up with a plan to brace the boat motor mount 😁

@@bodkin51 I don't think 6hp would stay above water.. the back of the boat starts to fold downward

We really like it. The only down sides we have found: 1. Ash tray is small and needs emptying daily 2. Like all low emissions stoves it has a secret uncontrollable extra air source so you can't turn it right down. I found it was at the top of the side glass. Some fire cement removed that eco feature. Other than those points it provides loads of heat to the house and can swallow large logs. So we love it.

No, that might mean you fight the motor and strip the cogs Fixing it will need to be done at 6 month intervals once it starts breaking. You may eventually fit a whole new unit. It depends if it annoys you!

As I recall from taking one apart, the motor driven screw isn't actually attached to thr caliper.. so once fully found back the 12v you can then apply physical pressure to push the piston back. Fit it back in with the old pads and then slip a combination spanner in to lever it

Glad you liked it, good luck with your work James

5 litres weighs 5kg :-)