i mean maybe they scoring like golf

No, don't need to remove the engine just to do a top end rebuild, take the head studs out and that's it.

Chek lais 0:42

Just a tidbit for future readers. The dash doesn't have to be pulled. Remove the lower half that goes from the ash tray of the dash towards the passenger side glove box. Look under the hood on the fire wall there's 5 nuts on studs, remove the nuts, remove the heater hoses, unbolt the evap connection under the blower resistor, yes you'll lose your freon, theres 2 brackets behind the cup holder that needs to be unbolted, remove all the vacuum lines from the air box. Ounce done the air box will fall out from under the dash. Way easier than removing the entire dash. Replaced the heater core on my 93 dakota winter of 08. Have to pull the box again to replace the blower motor now.

you know what the bible says ,,,dont get me some stop leak add water ever so often you had me when i saw the first pix

any chance you read this comment? I know it’s old but I’m looking for torque specs for putting my head on… thanks

I got everything loose I just cant get the chain to come loose from the sprocket. Any tips???

this is ironic because david miller is denying my open records request with the city of Springtown and his reason is because he can.

I was drunk when I took mine apart. I played your video backwards to re-assemble it. sknahT.

Hi Could you please help me? You have the only video on youtube about this unit. It keeps beepen al the time as crazy. My display unit is dead, I has not been able to find a replacement. The water heater instaled about 10 years ago

Not sure if you can help but at 6 minutes you had the black bulbous piece in view. Do you know what that is? We have a tube near that that is running straight to the engine with a vacuum suction in when the engine is running. Just curious what it is (the black ball)? And f you by chance know what the tube running into the side of the engine is.

I have the dash off. How do I access the heater core? I can’t seem to figure out how to open the housing for it. I’ve taken out a million of the screws holding it in, and I’ve taken out the bolts in the fire wall.

Can you tell me where to get a head like that ?

I know this is a 7 year old video lol Hope I get Some sort of reply But I’m having trouble figuring out which way to face the thermostat. There’s a purple line on it, and then a black line on the core of the thermostat. Tried it one way and the car still wasn’t circulating water through the engine. Any help?

Funny how you only count the time from when you actually start touching the motor mount. I guess the car just jumped up on the jackstands and the floorjack just pushed up the motor and ALL THAT STUFF IN THE WAY disconnected itself and will reconnect itself and your radio settings will just magically be restored once that battery just connects itself? I do most of my own on my cars but you're dreaming you if you think you only took 15 minutes from beginning to end. Try more like 50 to 75 minutes to do it all if you knew what you were doing, had all the correct tools and used a TORQUE wrench set to the correct values which I'm guessing do even know what those are as you just tightened those up as hard as you could.

A year or two back my alignment place(firestone complete auto, went out of business unfortunately because I had lifetime alignment on my Corolla, haven't had it aligned since) couldn't get it into spec on one side. Turned out to be the LCA drivers side causing issues. I ordered the part and was hoping to do it myself and then found out it was a terrible job. The part is still in my apartment and I'm not sure if I'll ever be up to doing it myself but I also know it'll be an expensive job at a mechanic. Thanks for providing a video even if I don't end up using it. All the other ones were passenger side which I hear it way easier. The old thing burns oil and has a few close calls, so I may want to get a professional inspection of the engine and stuff before I decide to even put much money into repairs like the LCA. My dirivers front tire always looks a bit low even though it isn't though and I think it may be because of the LCA or some other issue down there. My mental health has gone downhill in the last few years to the likelihood of me doing these things myself or just getting them done in general has drastically gone down. Did some minor work this morning though, driver window motor replacement. One of the two mounts on the bottom of the window was busted, not sure if I'll just grab a window at the pick a part or just keep it as is with only one of the two window mounts.

What is the cause of that noise? Timing chain or ac compressor?

I have same issues right now. They replace the timing chain then same issues, they said its the ac compressor and alternator makes noise. I really dont know. I think the repair shop scam me. I spend 3400 dollars on that timing chain

Did you need to remove the alternator

...wouldn't it just roll back in neutral???

So with the Dakotas, yours is actually still considered to be a 1st gen, despite the changes and differences between all the years of the 1st gen. The 1st gen Dakota ran from 87 to 96. There's still a couple of key similarities in most of those years though

Hey there what part of Texas? Think you did a tb on my 2014

Wow, saved my bacon! Rats have eaten some wires in there for the second time. I was able to replace the wire, but the system was staying in fault and would not restart. Was able to get it going again with this video!

i just replaced heater core on my 1995 Dodge Dakota, I did not remove entire dash just the lower part of the dash and the cupholder. Then slide out the whole heater core evaporator box after disconnecting hoses bolts and cable, just set the box on the tailgate. replace heater core and set it back in.

trying to get Valves for the right side of my 2013 Honda rebel 250 You wouldn't happen to know what Size or have pictures would you thanks

Anyone who manages to get one of these on the dirt cheap, should go big bore! I cant recommend it enough. Even if you cant find a complete kit, you can still buy some 57.4mm pistons and pay a machine shop &100-150 to have your stock jugs honed. $600 or a little less will buy you higher top speed sprockets, drop in K&N air filter, "sport mode" CDI unit, carb up-jet, and 275cc big bore kit. The bike just comes alive at that point, and all of the headwind/incline/highway grief goes away never to come back! Top speed goes up to 85mph letting you cruise at 65 with some power to pass if you need to.

I have a 2002 cmx. 250. Came with 1400 miles. Put about another 2000 on it and always took care of it and change oil more often than need to. Well I wound up having to ride about an hour each way to work and let a few days go by that I didn't check it was 3/4 low. After a month or so I noticed it was burning oil quicker than usual. After compression test I know I have to replace rings I've only worked on a few gas scooters putting on big bore kits. Is this a similar process and should I use only oem rings? Can you recommend a rebuild kit? Thanks for the great video as well!

Was hoping to get that "detection off" code but no dice. Mine is in F4 failure because it thinks Fan#2 isn't working. I guess my unit has an older firmware (1/10 build date), because while I can toggle the fans on and they seem to cycle successfully, I can't see the RPMs on the readout. Unsure whether the fan is running slow, not reporting, or the CPU has an issue. Tried oiling the fan bearing, no change, still fails out when it self tests after clearing the code. The fans are just 120mm case fans and are still in production, so I ordered one with a lead extension for ~$30.

Does it matter what cylinder you time?

Any idea on torque specs? Especially for the center nut on the rear control arm bushing? Thanks.

Thanks

That's what I have to do in my truck Mazda 96 model just like yours got a 3.9 in it and you're heater core the old one looks thicker then the new one is that the case

Hello i need to replace this motor mount but the on mine is the metal part that broke , it seem to have some weird screws they don't seem to be normal lugs have u ever tried to replace the metal part ? Do I need any special tool ? I'm still waiting on the metal part with the mount but not sure how I'm gonna unbolt it from the engine

Fuck, why didnt I think I was able to lift up the transmission....thanks, you saved me bro.

I’m six foot and 250. Had no problem doing this without taking the seat out. No need to take the seat out is you are the size of a grown man.

Para quitar la cabeza tienes que bajar el motor así no sale topa arriba

Were you able to remove the head without taking out those boltls?

Is the metal cap and spindle attached together as one piece?? On the rear it's separated and so it spins the spindle and you have to hold both ends to tighten.

Fellow 96 owner here, but mine is a manual, should I plan on just taking the whole dash out since the shift lever would be in the way?

Old video, but in case others have this sound, it is NOT the timing chain. It is the PCV valve. I have the exact same sound when a little load is put on around idle, like turning on AC, etc. like in this video. I thought it was the turbo on mine until I really tracked it down: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/adebobugm9a1Y3U.html If you pinch the vacuum line the sound stops completely. I've replaced the valve and it is still happening. Something in the way the vacuum from the intake manifold and the pressure in the crankcase are behaving appear to be causing it. I think I'd rather this gremlin than a $2500 chain job.

Follo me

❤❤❤❤

Can a person cut the dash in half and pull half the dash off ?

I did a top end rebuild . For some reason i can't get my cam chain back on . Seems to be wicked short all of a sudden . Any advice ?

What is the Allen screw below the bracket?

What is the Allen screw below the bracket?

You where saying you can tell if you have a male or female rack?

How did you fix it ?

I got to do a top end job sometime. 11k Oil is leaking on the left cylinder through one of the valves and causing intermittent annoyance popping and smoke at idle. Rode it for 1000 miles like that. I'm gonna take the studs out. Hopefully they dont snap in the case. The thing I hate about the rebel is the whole bike has to be almost completely taken apart to take the head off. Even the carb.