I'm not sure what proof you're talking about. It tracked fine and when I manually stopped to avoid crossing a busy road it continued to track through 9-10 obstacles. The tracking and transition to spotlight from 280 feet looked great to me.

Thanks! The Avata 2 with motion controller is easy to fly and the most fun I've had flying to date.

Thanks. That was a fun 1.5 days in San Pedro.

Thanks!

This is my regular flying area 5 minutes from home.

Thanks! I don't know if they want me flying here at my local park but it isn't controlled airspace and I was flying over water, not people or cars so it is technically legal. I've shot it before but not with an FPV drone. It was fun.

Thanks! That's our local cemetery at the end. Usually no people there this time of day so it's a decent spot to fly. Greetings from Riverside California. I've subscribed to your channel as well. I haven't had time to look at your videos as I'm building a Night Radian 2-meter glider and learning how to fly it.

@@TcpIpNut Thank you so much my friend

Thanks! I enjoyed many of your videos. I made my way to your channel and subscribed while researching the Night Radian which should be arriving in the next few days. I've never flown an RC plane but after running across a Night Radian video, I caught the fever. I ordered the Ranger 600 Stunt RTF (as my trainer) for an awesome price of $87 with tax but Amazon lost it in transit. The price went back up and they would not reship at the original price. After that, I decided to purchase the Radian/batteries/transmitter/charger from reputable brick and mortar hobby stores via ebay. I've just had far too many issues with Amazon and it's a nice feeling to support small businesses. I hope there aren't any crashes in my near future. After that, my biggest concern is finding enough open accessible land to fly it. Wide open land is hard to come by as Riverside is in the Inland Empire where cities sprawl out our direction from Los Angeles. It's like continuous civilization until you hit the Pacific. I've found some wide open land via Google Maps about 30 minutes ESE. I hope it's still open and not full of homes or distribution centers when I arrive to glide. We will see when I get there. Happy flying!

LOL. Yes, I see that. I'm impressed with the digital zoom. We started with no zoom at 70mm and then applied up to 6X digital zoom near the end. This from a flying camera. ;)

It was pretty breezy. Look at the palm trees at the start. That is the in-flight wind reported by Airdata for this flight and wouldn't be uncommon for this time.

RockSteady is an inherent function of the drone that can be turned on and off. I normally use it.

Thanks!

No stabilization in the goggles view while you're flying but the recorded view is stabilized. I think the reason is that there would be too much delay if stabilization was applied to the live view. If there is too much delay, you could run into something because you haven't seen it quickly enough to react. People fly these drones in manual mode at 60 MPH in close proximity to obstructions. You get used to the goggles view. I flew today in high wind on the side of a mountain and didn't notice it so much. The recorded footage looks great. I'll be uploading it later today or tomorrow.

the like recorded video stablization is really good but non in the goggles its mainly just the wind causing the shakes

I was using a STARTRC ND 32 filter here. I've never used the brand before. I normally use Freewell filters but I'm waiting on someone to release ND/PL combination filters for the Avata 2 as I prefer those. This is the $30 STARTRC 4 pack with ND 8/16/32/64. I set my ISO to auto but follow the 180 rule like you are doing to get motion blur. The footage looked fine but the shadows were too dark for my taste so I bumped up the blacks by 5 and shadows by 15 in Capcut to brighten the shadows/darker areas. I'd suggest shooting again but with auto ISO. If it is still too dark or gets grainy, try stepping down to the ND8. I'm usually flying all over the place and the proper exposure looking towards the sun may not be right exposure looking away from the sun so something has to be variable. If you are following the 180 rule with a fixed aperture and set shutter speed, that variable is your ISO.

If you want a fixed ISO, keep increasing it until you are happy with the exposure. I usually prefer mine to be variable. I think this video ended up too bright and with too little contrast but I'm fine with it. My primary purpose was to test these new filters and see how much motion blur I would get at 30 FPS. I got plenty.

Check out my 180-degree shutter rule Auto ISO example video I just uploaded where I'm using a STARTRC ND 16 filter. I like these settings. The video quality is poor (1080p screen recording of video playback) but here I was just watching the range of the ISO. The full unedited clip is uploading now.

Downtown Riverside, CA, USA.

No, I didn't create it but I love how it adds to the immersion. I only started playing GTA V about two weeks ago. Played hardly any of the main story before I found LSPDFR and all the associated mods which I've been playing religiously since then. Check out Blue Line Vibes (old channel name was Benzo Effect - recently changed) on KZfaq for some good LSPDFR play.

Riverside, California.

@@TcpIpNut thanks you

Right! Although I'm not in controlled airspace, I have to keep a close eye out for police helicopters here in downtown Riverside, CA. Not a day goes by when I don't see them at least once. That and recreational airplane pilots from an uncontrolled airfield nearby.

I wasn't sure so I updated my firmware to the latest version and tested this morning. It does. Check out my latest video (screen recording) and short (drone recording) to see it in action.

@@TcpIpNut thanks!

Neither, it's the Air 3 using the 70mm camera without digital zoom.

Thanks! I'm already subscribed to your channel.

I think it is a good screen recording from almost 300 feet. The compass was set to some nonstandard setting which made it jittery. That's the only jitter I see.

the box? yeah its not the worlds best computer built into the drones, the footage itself, super smooth

Thanks. I was able to grab some raw video and stack it before the clouds moved in. I like using AutoStakkert and AstroSurface for my moon/sun raw video to photo process.

@@TcpIpNut that's great, yes I am still new of using autostakkert, the first time I tried it (after recording thru sharpcap) The moon was stretched sideways in Slices, looked like a moon slinky! And I Realized later that I used a capture with The tracker turned off so the moon Would come into the scene, then exit And added music to it, just didn't think about that factor at the time. It was a cool picture from the stack results. But I guess we learn from every one of those little mistakes. 😂

Exactly what I was about to say

So true

Yup. Informative > fake-glamorous any day. It's a shock seeing something genuine. This is where we are.

Thanks. You're welcome. It does a good job for a 50mm scope. The price and ease of use are very nice. It's the only scope I have these days. ZWO has released some poor updates for the Seestar. I stay at least one version behind and see how new updates affect the scope's performance by watching the Facebook groups. I'm one version behind right now. My friend, who is up to date, is getting 50-33% efficiency. I'm getting 66-75%, which is decent to good for the Seestar. I used the OBS (streaming software) saturation filter to remove all the color because I think the white looks cleaner/sharper. I produced a nice solar image from raw video today. Linked here. facebook.com/groups/seestar/permalink/368863252592630/

Thanks!

1,140 meters distant and 147 meters higher in altitude.

Thanks!

See an spacecrafts?

I haven't been lucky enough to have an ISS transit of the moon since owning my Seestar. I caught one satellite transiting the moon but not during a live feed. I was shooting a video to stack the frames for a detailed picture.@@mikesmith6461

If it's cloudy and you are trying to shoot stars and DSOs at night, you will have issues. The moon and sun are fine with some clouds. The Seestar needs to see a certain number of stars so it can stack the frames for DSOs/starfields. They are like anchor points. If it can't see them to stack, you won't see much. It will also have a hard time with its initial setup at night. You should be seeing messages like, "...not enough stars, image discarded."

No, it was created in Siril. No Seestar stargazing timelapse mode. Each frame is a 10-second exposure from Bortle 8-9 skies (why it's so noisy). It was windy and a recent firmware upgrade created some bad tracking issues. The video is a little jumpy due to lost frames from the wind/firmware issues.

This is the Pro version Batch mode that makes use very simple. There isn't much to it. Just shoot your target for a good amount of time and Tycho handles the rest. Obtain a Tycho Tracker Pro license ($50). Use Batch Mode and adjust the speed/PA range (batch mode settings) so the tracker will find your object more quickly. The benefit of using batch mode is that it will save the results in a historical log (Dataset Navigator) with a sky map and short animations of the objects you observed. This data is contained in the very small *d_c_a_o directories. Don't delete them if you wish to have this historical log. You will hit a data cap after about 1.5 hours of Seestar exposure data with the Standard ($25) version, so you don't want that version. The Dataset Navigator doesn't work with the standard version as it relies on data produced by the Pro version batch mode. Point your Seestar at a comet/asteroid and capture it as long as you like. I will usually shoot for at least 30 minutes of exposure data. The longer your capture/faster your target, the better your animation will appear. Pablo's video gives you a good idea of how the program works. The steps he performs are mostly automated in batch mode. You can adjust animation settings to fine-tune the video to your liking. The developer has many videos about Tycho, but Pablo's is the best overview I've seen and where I learned how to use the program. I first learned how to manually process the data without using batch mode, so I had a good understanding of how the program works. You can download the program and evaluate most non-Pro features with data provided by the developer before purchasing. I found the Ivar data fun to work with. Under Action, Plate Solve Images, Solver Settings, set lower bounds to 0.300000, upper bounds to 8.00000, Downsample factor 2, and Star extraction mode to Standard for the Seestar. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9uefs6W0rjbkok.htmlsi=ZIFe_Mkr3oP3Mc6v www.tycho-tracker.com/ www.youtube.com/@tychotracke See Pablo's comments in this post where he shared his Seestar settings with me. facebook.com/groups/seestar/permalink/304205189058437/

Thanks. There isn't much to it. Just shoot your target for a good amount of time and Tycho handles the rest. Obtain a Tycho Tracker Pro license ($50). Use Batch Mode and adjust the speed/PA range (batch mode settings) so the tracker will find your object more quickly. The benefit of using batch mode is that it will save the results in a historical log (Dataset Navigator) with a sky map and short animations of the objects you observed. This data is contained in the very small *d_c_a_o directories. Don't delete them if you wish to have this historical log. You will hit a data cap after about 1.5 hours of Seestar exposure data with the Standard ($25) version, so you don't want that version. The Dataset Navigator doesn't work with the standard version as it relies on data produced by the Pro version batch mode. Point your Seestar at a comet/asteroid and capture it as long as you like. I will usually shoot for at least 30 minutes of exposure data. The longer your capture/faster your target, the better your animation will appear. Pablo Levin's video gives you a good idea of how the program works. The steps he performs are mostly automated in batch mode. You can adjust animation settings to fine-tune the video to your liking. The developer has many videos about Tycho, but Pablo's is the best overview I've seen and where I learned how to use the program. I first learned how to manually process the data without using batch mode, so I had a good understanding of how the program works. You can download the program and evaluate most non-Pro features with data provided by the developer before purchasing. I found the Ivar data fun to work with. Under Action, Plate Solve Images, Solver Settings, set lower bounds to 0.300000, upper bounds to 8.00000, Downsample factor 2, and Star extraction mode to Standard for the Seestar. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9uefs6W0rjbkok.htmlsi=ZIFe_Mkr3oP3Mc6v www.tycho-tracker.com/ www.youtube.com/@tychotracker