I will attempt to answer the best I can. Please keep in mind that I am not necessarily an expert on the system, but I can share my experience. If you haven't already, check out the KFC150 instructions from Bendix King. I found them to be pretty helpful for different approach examples. Assuming the 430 is in the GPS CDI mode and not VLOC, they should talk. You need to move the HSI course arrow (not the heading bug) to match the heading shown on the GPS though. The 430 will give you a heads up on upcoming direction change. My issues with last minute approach changes involved the glide slope primarily. That said, the nav / apr can get "lost" sometimes. I like to use my heading bug mode to get close to the course first before engaging the nav or apr mode so it doesn't wallow all over the place trying to find the course. Once I have it tracking nav / apr though, it usually holds lateral without too much issue. The glide slope though will only capture in APR mode, which means you have to be established fairly well before the FAF for it to work. I have had issues when ATC vectors me to the approach course less than a mile from the FAF. By the time I get established and hit APR mode, it fails to capture the glideslope and I have to fly it manually. If established early enough and on APR mode, it grabs the glideslope and takes her down nicely as shown in my video. My "usual" plan is start on heading bug mode while being vectored. Once cleared direct to a fix, I make sure I am pointed in the right direction or turning into it and engage NAV mode with the HSI arrow set to the DTK. I follow the GPS instructions turning the HSI arrow for each approach segment. Once established, I hit APR mode for the better sensitivity and glideslope capture. When being vectored to final, I use heading bug until established on the final approach course and with the HSI arrow set for the final course I engage APR mode. This is where sometimes the glideslope doesn't capture. Overall, I have been really happy with my KFC150. It isn't as nifty as the new Garmin stuff, but it does what I need it to do pretty well. There is usually a little course deviation, but it is close. Given the cost of new stuff, I hope it continues to work for a long time. I am planning to do a video on using the KFC150 in a hold next. Thanks for watching!

It was a 77 200hp arrow. I never liked the way it flew, so who knows if it was not rigged right or what. It was a club plane in a big club. Big reason I decided to buy my own. I will say I was in a partnership on a 75 Hershey bar arrow that flew way better than this one.

@kujoclips4962 Makes sense. Big club planes are only marginally better than flight school planes in my experience. And yeah, I'm with you, much prefer the HB wing to the tapered. Thanks for the reply, and happy flying.

I am at Aurora (KARR). It is a nice hangar community.

What I found out is that the purchase agreement is like the initial agreement between buyer and seller showing the plan and timeline. The bill of sale would be the final pricing document, but you should have an initial agreement on pricing up front. For instance, if the plane ends up being completely in line with your upfront expectations, you agreed to pay $x. Usually you also agree to pay a deposit upfront to show you are serious and have skin in the game. The rest of the agreement goes into detail about the plan. Seller will bring plane to xyz shop on whatever date for prebuy inspection. Buyer will be responsible for cost of prebuy and have so many days after completion of prebuy in order to come to final agreement with seller. If unairworthy items are found and buyer / seller can't come to negotiated agreement on correction, deposit is refundable. I would suggest pulling examples of purchase agreements off the internet or AOPA. You can even talk to an aviation lawyer through AOPA for low dollar. In my case, it was very simple because the owner didn't want to do a big contract. He basically agreed to fly it to the prebuy shop without me giving a deposit and said you can take it or leave it after inspection. His price was very fair, so unless there was a major surprise, the deal was pretty much done there. If there was a big issue, I was only out the prebuy cost. The purchase agreement was very simple in my case as shown in the video. I did not do a LLC, because I read that it wasn't as straight forward as people think. If I was doing a partnership, I probably would. I did do it in my trust for estate purposes. I think with enough insurance, the LLC thing might be overcomplicating things, but again, it is probably worth talking to a lawyer and doing what is best for you.

@@kujoclips4962 Thanks for the info and reply. So solo owner so looks like LLC isn't necessary (compared to investments and other assets). The final price is the sale price, but can / should negotiate some prior as part of the purchase agreement. I have the AOPA stock agreement, and I'll find some other 'filled in' examples to read through too. The biggest hurdle right now it turns out is finding a place to park the plane (there's a 7-10 year wait for a hanger at my airport, and 18-24 months at the next closest airport). And WA has a use tax of 10.1%!?!?! This is the same as the local sales tax, so they want me to pay sales tax (again) on the purchase of used 44 year old plane. As much as I want to own instead of rent, that $20-25k of 'gift' money to the state really gets me for some reason... sorting out what, if any option, exist...

@@Vejitasei Yeah the whole multiple sales taxation thing on used items has always bothered me. I bent over and paid the IL use tax on mine and hated every second of it :). The thing about the purchase agreement is that you and the seller should really come to a pretty solid agreement at the point of writing it up. If there are items possibly found at pre-buy that would result in further negotiation, you should call out the details of how it will work. Usually the defining line is airworthiness or safety of flight issues. If these are found, you should have an out clause w/ your deposit written into the agreement. Hopefully if you are entering into a purchase agreement with the seller, small findings in the pre-buy won't affect your intent to move forward. Especially in a hot market, if only minor things are found, you should probably close the deal as the seller is likely not super motivated. The hangar was a major stress item for me too, but luckily I found a great hangar for sale right before I got my plane and jumped on it. I think it helps to be the squeaky wheel on things like the hangar. I would pester the nearby airport managers relatively often so your name is at the top of their mind when something unforeseen happens. I had one airport manager call me a few times while I was in the market because she knew I was interested and actively looking. She even told me they were considering building some communal hangar space and would put me at the top of the list for it if they got it approved.

All in it was around 70. This includes the factory new IO550, unlike core charge, STC, R&R, and shipping. TCM increased their prices ~15% a month or so before I ordered. It was painful, but planned.

It ended up being about 20 days in my situation. During that period, I had the prebuy inspection done, lien and title check done, and had to get the insurance documentation right. Once things started moving though, it came together relatively smoothly. If I recall, part of the delay was the prebuy shop availability and my travel schedule for work.

My bad, just noticed you did a video on it!

Glad you found it! I was going to point you to it. Basically you can use EGT on an engine monitor if you have it, otherwise you can pull mixture until you feel deceleration and then slightly enrichen to smooth it out. If you have poor fuel distribution or are carbureted, you may have to run fairly rich.

The tips do help you keep the mains full for ballast. One thing to keep in mind is the tip cg is a little aft, so initially it doesn't help keep it forward. Once you burn off some main though, you pump it in to keep the mains full longer. Of course you are lifting more weight then, so keep that in mind. If you watch my AZ family trip video, you will see how we did when heavy and somewhat aft. With 2-3 hour legs it is manageable.

Another suggestion is to download the w&b calculator from beechtalk forum or the Bonanza performance app to run some whatifs. For reference, my empty weight and cg is 2392 and 82.13". With tips, the gross is 3600. The 550 helps lift the load, and a hartzell scimitar / glass panel would move your cg forward an inch or more.

Thanks for the comments Tom. I will put together a quick mission summary and explanation of my journey to the F33a. With tip tanks the plane holds 120 gallons. On my trip to AZ, I was burning between 12 and 13 gallons per hour doing about 165 knots TAS. I was also heavy and keeping fuel weight as ballast for my aft CG. If it was just me and maybe a second person with solid bladder control, the plane could fly for almost 8 hours pretty easy. That would be about 1200-1300nm with no wind.

This is the "over square" old wives tale I mention in the video. The simple answer is just look in the POH. Higher MP than RPM settings are in POHs all the time, even in turbo aircraft with higher than standard MP. I just looked up a turbo Piper Arrow POH and there is a 75% power setting in the table with 34.8" MP and 2300RPM. The NA Arrow POH has a 65% setting at 25.9" and 2100 RPM. These are cruise settings and not climb settings, but there is nothing wrong with them, in fact they are recommended by the manufacturer. Actually, if you want to run lean of peak EGT, it is beneficial to run at lower RPMs.

If I understand your question correctly, I think you are looking for the power setting table from the POH. It won't let me paste a picture here in the comments, but you can search for the arrow II POH online. The power setting table shows manifold pressure settings for different RPM settings and resulting engine power. In the arrow, the Scimitar prop recommended RPM was 2300. Because of that, I usually cruised at 2300RPM and <25" manifold pressure. According to the table, this would be around 70-75% power. If just putting around, I would do something lower like 22 or 23" with 2300RPM. You have to use the POH for reference to power settings for each aircraft and the mixture matters as well. For example, in my Bonanza, 75% cruise would be more like 23.5" and 2500RPM if rich of peak based on the POH.

I'm not sure I understand your comment, but I would also point to the adage never say never. If you are climbing from sea level to 9500ft in an NA aircraft and never lean, you will be way too rich at those higher altitudes. In fact, my factory fuel flow gauge in the bonanza shows where to lean to at different altitudes during climb. If you are full rich at takeoff and record the EGT, you should absolutely be able to lean during climb to maintain that same EGT and you will have the same air/fuel ratio at 7000ft as you did at 1000ft which should be plenty rich. That is usually around 1300 degrees. In a turbo, this doesn't apply.

@@igor-orzhevskii Laughing. You are not a pilot. And obviously should not be touching anyones engine. Most should be leaning during taxi to prevent fouling plugs. Set the mixture usually about 1/3rd down from full rich REGARDLESS OF DENSITY ALTITUDE. Leaning in cruise is critical and most do it by FIRST setting the throttle to your desired manifold and RPM (70% power or greater), then reducing the mixture gradually until the engine runs a little rough, then slowly enrich the mixture until the engine smooths out. No one should lean in a climb as the risk of starving the engine of fuel and reducing power below a critical level is greater than achieving any kind of fuel savings... The downside to leaning is if you run the engine too lean, you can have preignition, detonation, and/or significantly reduce the life of the engine or worse, damage pistons requiring a major overhaul.

@@speedomars you can think whatever you want. We were talking about 'leaning mixture during a climb', not how it's done on the ground or during a cruise phase. If you're in a continuous climb from, say, MSL and up to the absolute ceiling of your airplane and you're not leaning, then you just wont make it up there. Your engine is running on an imbalanced fuel/air mixture as your progressively go into a high density altitude. Period. Again, I didn't mention here that a primary reference should be EGT or CHT for a multi-probe engine monitor. If cylinders getting too hot, then you obviously should reduce power/enrich/decrease pitch attitude/open cowl flaps etc. Flying full-rich really is a waste, will foul your plugs, will increase your risk of CO2 poisoning in the case of an exhaust leak, and will reduce your performance (range). You can't starve your engine on fuel, unless you abruptly pull back the lever and that's why there's a Vernier mechanism located on the knob, to precisely adjust it little by little. For additional information, one should consult his POH and engine operator's manual.