@@INSPEKTA383 ... Holosun EPS Carry

@Outlander18 ... I'm not sure, but that's strange. With every AR I've shot using 55gr ammo, I am hitting 6-8" high only when using a 25 yard zero, which is what I used to zero at. But there's other factors that will affect the POI, like muzzle velocity, optic height, etc. So depending on those other factors, you may have to experiment and tweak your zero distance to get the best performance...so you might have a smaller spread with a 40 yard zero. Every setup and caliber, depending on the factors will have a sweet spot.

@johnrouse4641 ... There's always exceptions, but yes, any standard Government 1911 grips should fit.

@jujuscustomshop tyvm since u responded I have 1 more question if u would be so kind. Do u have a compensator recommendation for this pistol

@johnrouse4641 ... I've bought quite a few, and have always picked them up off Ebay from CZ Industries and Valkyrie Dynamics. If you don't have a threaded barrel, then any of the bushing style comps should work fine. Those types of steel comps do actually help reduce muzzle rise, but I believe they help with that more because of the extra weight they add to the muzzle of the 1911, more than the actual function of directing gasses upward. If you have a threaded barrel, then I really can't give you a recommendation because I've never used a threaded comp on a 1911.

@jujuscustomshop ii understand I just really like that night stalker and ima get one but I think a comp on the end would really set it off.

@johnrouse4641 ... no doubt, a black comp would look awesome with that grey Cerakote along with the other black accents like the trigger and barrel.

@timkc1638 ... Thanks! They are still available, and there are several listed on the GunBroker website. Search for Bersa Thunder 380 Plus X...the model number is T380PM15X.

@@Sonic357 ... Great advise, thanks for watching!

@JoeLi-h2w ... Yes, water will still get all inside the AR receivers, which is fine. The receivers should be completely stripped of all internal parts before dipping, like trigger, selector, detents, springs, etc. All the water will dry off within a day, and it will not rust because the receivers are aluminum. If you're dipping a barrel, you can plug the ends to keep the water and clearcoat out of the bore, but you still need to complete the process as soon as you can and run an oil soaked patch down the bore when you're finished and the clearcoat has dried. I would not sand blast or prime/paint the inside of the receivers, so try to keep any overspray out of those parts. I have several more videos...parts 4, 5, and 6 that show the actual dipping process, so you might want to check those out. Thanks for watching!

@@jujuscustomshop You are a legend man, huge fan of your work!

@@JoeLi-h2w ... Thanks so much!

@LosDoyerss ... true, but I wanted to keep it functional, and it took about 5 minutes to fit it properly. Thanks for watching!

@LWM918 ... CCI Standard Velocity

@David-ur5lb ... the iron sights co-witness at the very bottom of the window, so you pretty much have the whole window to use the dot. I show the co-witness at 3 min 35 sec of my Apollo 11 review video if you want to see what that looks like.

@@jujuscustomshop I will check it out thanks!

You'll be amazed at how good it works...thanks for watching!

@newfablesam ... You could mold the magazine with a dummy round in it, but not sure that I'd want to do it with a live round. It probably wouldn't get hot enough to be an issue with the live round, but it will get pretty hot when you clamp it down in the press for 10 minutes, so just to be safe, ya know? I've done it both ways, with a dummy round and without, and it doesn't seem to really matter. The pouch will have pretty good retention, so you can push the mag down into the pouch half way, and it will still hold it in. The farther you push the mag into the pouch, the more retention it seems to have. So if you want them to come out easily, you can push them in half way...or if you want max retention, you can push them all the way in. Thanks for watching!

@@jujuscustomshop Thanks for the considerations. Maybe it's time to try out my bullet puller!

@McJiver ... Good call, along with a barrel that has a defect. I should have mentioned that in the video, and why it's always a good idea to shoot a couple of mags through the gun at a paper target before using the suppressor on a new host for the first time, and check the impact holes to make sure they are hitting at the point of aim and are not "keyholing" or hitting the paper sideways. I had a brand new 10" Aero Precision barrel in 300BLK that keyholed REAL bad for the first 30-40 rounds, then after that it straightened up and shot fine. It was probably a bur at the gas port or crown that smoothed out after those first couple of mags.

@mikel6300 ... What happens when you try to chamber a round? How does the top round in the mag look, as far as being aligned with the chamber?

@michaelolin2219 ... Yeah, I think mine is from the first run, when they used MIM parts and were in a hurry to meet the release date, so that's why it had issues. Glad to hear that yours is running great, and good luck with the holster. Thanks!

@themotorhino1331 ... You can get a threaded barrel from places like Jarvis Custom, Bar-Sto, and Fusion Firearms. Jarvis and Bar-Sto offer drop-in barrels that should require little to no fitting at all, but Fusion sells match barrels that will require quite a bit of fitting. The Apollo 11 uses a Wilson/Nolan ramped bull barrel, so any place that you can get one of those should be fine, but there will be fitting involved if it's not specifically stated that it's a "drop-in" barrel.

@Thomas-vt7cz ... Thanks! And yeah, most of the issues I've had, and seen from others, are pretty easy to fix with some minor adjustments or fitting. My Apollo has a low serial number, so it probably came from the first batch and has more issues than a later production would have.

@gabygybonu ... What's up Nasty! Hope you're doing good brother! I miss you guys, we had alot of fun back in the day. I guess there's not much going on with AEST and COD these days?

@@jujuscustomshop all moved to AtF…join up sometime 😀

@gabygybonu ... That's cool, I didn't think you guys even played any more.

@seanmtac7573 ... That'll look great. If your fill color is black, then the black barrel will probably look better.

@@jujuscustomshop thanks! The fill for the slide I just did matching Socom blue. Socom blue is an interesting color so we’ll see how it comes out! Sometimes looks black- charcoal- bluish charcoal black lol. I ordered a bunch of color swatches from cerakote. I wanted to do a nitrided black bushing with the stainless barrel and in order to mix match I had to do this on the build itself. The extra fitted barrels match the finish with the bushing only. Also just went with the bushing style, although the bull barrel options look nice as well.

@seanmtak7573 ... That will be awesome! The stainless barrel might look better then, but either way, you're gonna love it. It's still my favorite pistol out of all that I have.

@@jujuscustomshop that’s awesome glad to hear that thank you! I wouldn’t mind ordering another one for sure lol. I wanted to get my order in because I think they could charge more if they wanted, or could feel the need to cut some of the custom options (I hope not). Either way they’re doing quite a bit with the bull barrels, and now they’re coming out with a .45 acp Glock 21 mag version.

@@jujuscustomshop the cerakote finishes you chose look great also and now I’m questioning tacking on a bull barrel to the order lol. The one thing I want to try to do is use a one piece guide rod, have you had any issues with the two piece? I’ve seen people use a fusion and nighthawk one piece guide rod.

@joelbauer7583 ... Already done, and yeah it makes a big difference. My last video was about the grip swap and the other issues I fixed. Thanks for watching!

@love4gtsandguns ... I'd like to do something different as well, but dang, most of the grips that I've looked at are really expensive. If I get the bugs worked out, then I'll probably get something better.

@jujuscustomshop Yeah, they are pricey from what I've seen, $250-$500 on average. Maybe worth an investment later.

@erics1723 ... nice upgrades, thanks for watching.

@paunchouspilot6757 ... That'll look excellent!

@Citizen2ACitizenLLC ... Thanks! I've got a Wilson/Nolan ramped bull barrel from Fusion in it now. I appreciate you watching, and thanks for the sub!

Got it. Looking at them now... No worries. Gotta support the community@@jujuscustomshop

@@Citizen2ACitizenLLC ... Yes sir, gave you a sub as well. You can also check out Jarvis Custom for a threaded barrel. Barrels from Jarvis are a little better and you can get a drop in version from them as well.

Much appreciated. You weren't kidding about the Jarvis Barrels... looking a their 1911 barrel for $225.... I guess thats on par with threaded barrels. Thanks for the info. This is really helpful. I am new to 1911/2011 platform. My first was a prodigy and now the Apollo. Platypus on the way. Learning as I go. @@jujuscustomshop

No problem at all...and sorry for the delayed response, but for some reason KZfaq didn't notify me that you commented again. But yeah, most places are very proud of their threaded barrels. Most of the 2011 bull barrels that I've bought have been about $300. The Platypus is an awesome pistol...you'll love it!

@Lakanen263 - Thanks for watching!

@user-yp6xm6om5y - Thanks for watching!

@Terry-hl5eo ... That's excellent, I'm glad that it helped you out. I don't believe that grease will hurt any kind of metal, so it should be fine on any of the baffles and pistons you have. I have titanium, stainless, and aluminum baffles, and I use it on all of them. I consider it a must on the aluminum baffles because there's really no other way to clean them easily without doing damage to them or the finish. You should pick up an ultrasonic cleaner for the stainless and titanium baffles. If you have that grease on your baffles, then all of the carbon and gunk will fall right off in the ultrasonic, and you probably won't even have to use the shop towels on those. You'll still have to use the shop towels on the aluminum baffles since you can't put those in the ultrasonic cleaner. That's what I do... I put all my stainless and titanium baffles in the ultrasonic and turn it on, and by the time I'm done cleaning the aluminum baffles with a shop rag, the stainless and titanuim baffles are done and come out of the cleaner looking like new. Thanks for watching!

@billyblake4291 ... I appreciate you watching, and glad you liked it!

@kyleward6627 ... It was a direct swap, and I haven't had any issues with it, other than the slide being about 1/16" from sitting flush in the back.

@casjmere ... It's from Agency Arms, but unfortunately I don't think they make them any more.

@wadewilson6135 ... I was going to fix it myself, but I might reach out and let them do it. Maybe they'd give it some upgrades. :) I left you a comment on the Nightstalker DS review about the grips. I had to repost that video, so I deleted the original one that you commented on.

​@@jujuscustomshop what was your response on the grips?

​@wadewilson6135 ... Just wanted to let you know that was a great idea on dying the grip module. And, I do still have the factory NightStalker single stack grips, but I'd really like to hang onto them since they're unique and specific to that gun. Thanks!

@marktorres5736 ... Yes, I've shot 147gr subsonic ammo and 124gr supersonic ammo through the Echelon, and it has functioned flawlessly with both suppressed and unsuppressed. And yeah, it seems to be a perfect combo. The Omega 36M is definitely my favorite suppressor. It's the quietest can that I've used on my 9mm pistols, and it's the one that I use the most. I like it so much, that I actually just bought another one. I did swap out the RMR06 with an SRO on my Echelon so that I'd have a little larger window to work with on the optic. The RMR would be fine for carry or general shooting, but the SRO does help when you're shooting steel at longer distances. I'm sure you'll be very happy with it because it's an awesome setup. I did a review video about the Echelon with more info that you might want to check out as well. Thanks for watching!

Thanks again! Salute

@tc0566 ... I've never had any experience with the issue you're having, but after searching the interwebs, it sounds like this can sometimes be an issue with 45 and 10mm 1911's. Take a look at this post from the 1911 forum and see if anything they discuss could help... www.1911forum.com/threads/sr1911-wont-eject-chambered-round.486899/

@tc0566 ... Do a Google search on "10mm won't eject live round" and you'll find alot of posts about the issue. Here's another post that might help... www.1911forum.com/threads/tisas-tank-commander-not-ejecting-live-rounds.1054583/

i have a 10mm nssf that had ftf issues the extractor was so tight it would either skip ejector and load into chamber and the ejector would snap into place or not feed at all. i could not get the extractor out so i sent in for warranty for work

@a.d.c7941 ... Glad you liked it, and thank you for watching!

@thomasjefferson3552 ... I cut a set of my rods shorter for pistols, or I hold the gun so the rod is vertical.

@PrecisionAirsoft ... They come in a length of 36", and I ended up buying 2 sets. I left one set at 36" for checking rifles, and the other set I cut at 15", so there was 21" left over. I will probably never need a 36" rod in the .45 and 9mm caliber, but I went ahead and bought 2 full sets just to have some extras in case I ever need them. It's really depends on what you have...so if you've got a 24" rifle with an 8" suppressor, then you'll need a rod at least 32 inches long for checking. If your longest pistol is 6" with an 8" suppressor, then you'll need a rod that's at least 14" long. About 90% of the time, I use the 15" rods because most of the things I'm checking are pistols or sub guns with barrels that are 6" or less. And keep in mind, once you check the alignment of a suppressor with a particular attachment device (piston/direct thread cap/etc) , and it checks out good, you don't have to check it every time you use it. Anytime I get a new attachment device, I will check it on a couple of hosts, and if it checks out fine, then I consider that attachment device good to go. And, I check every host barrel with a couple of different devices, and once that barrel checks out fine, then I consider that barrel good to go. So to make a long story even longer, LoL...if I've checked a pistol with a piston setup that I know is good to go and it checks out fine, then I don't bother checking that pistol on other suppressor setups that have checked out fine on other pistols. I hope that's making sense. Once you determine that a host or attachment device is concentric, then there's no need to test them on other hosts or devices that you already know is concentric. The only time you would need to check again, is if you get a new gun or a new attachment device. Hope this helps and didn't confuse the heck out of you! 😀

@@jujuscustomshopI made a set and I checked my 9. And that one was perfect. But when I put the 22 rod in an mk4 it was a little sloppy down the bore. Do you have any advice for a different rod? It did work well in 223.

@PrecisionAirsoft ... Yeah, the 22/223 rod that I listed is 0.212 diameter, which is 5 thousandths smaller than the actual 22LR bore diameter of 0.217. Unfortunately, the next biggest rod that McMasterCarr sells is 0.218, and I have that rod but it's too tight to go into the bore of a 22LR and if I rememeber correctly the .223 as well. But the 0.212 rod that I listed will work good enough to check. On the Mark IV pistols, I usually pull the bolt out because sometimes the extractor will make the rod sit a little crooked in the bore...so I pull the bolt out, or pull the bolt back and put my finger in the chamber to stop the rod from dropping all the way down to the bolt, then hold the pistol upright, so that the rod is sticking up veritical. That was it's a little easier to tell how much space you have around the rod and the suppressor end cap. Hope this helps...

@@jujuscustomshop I will try that. Thank you.

@yotatech ... Thanks! And yeah, I clean all the baffles on the Banish 45 by hand. I have never put those in the ultrasonic, but it's fine to clean the pistons and spring with it. The grease makes it so easy, you'll be amazed.

@@jujuscustomshop thanks. So I will skip getting the ultrasound cleaner, and maybe get some of the purple Simple Green and presoak the aluminum baffles for awhile before cleaning that brake grease off. If I soak them in a pan, can you do straight Simple Green, or should I dilute it some? I should have my suppressor in three weeks or so. First thing I will do is apply that grease inside and out on the baffles. First suppressor, looking forward to it, it is going on a CMMG Banshee and a Stribog SP9A1, both 9mm. And may try it on my Sig P365XL and SIG P322 also.

@@yotatech ... you're gonna love it. It's a great suppressor, just wish they'd have gone with stainless baffles instead. Should be a great match for the hosts you have. I'd just fill a pan with the hottest water you can get from your faucet, give it a couple splashes of whatever cleaning solution you like, and you should be good...or throw them in a small bucket of hot water and solution, then you can use a toothbrush to scrub them down in the water. You really don't need much cleaning solution when you're using the grease. Let me know how it works out for you. I just bought a few more cans myself, so hopefully the wait won't be too bad. 😅

@@jujuscustomshop thanks again. Yes, wait times are down, I just ordered it last Wednesday, and a free T shirt and fingerprint cards showed up Saturday, and those went out back to them this morning. So I am hoping by mid May at the latest.

@PrecisionAirsoft ... You'll be happy with those, both are great cans! I just bought another Obsidian 45 today, along with a few others. ;)

@j33pfyn4tik6 ... Thanks! Those are Hogue model 45000 Gov 1911 rubber finger groove grips, and I usually pick them up from Amazon for about 25 bucks.

@@jujuscustomshop Thanks for the quick response! I just got my first 1911. It's a Tisas Night Stalker in 9mm but I wasn't sure what 1911 frame style it had to order new grip panels.

@j33pfyn4tik6 ... no problem, as long as it's a full size with a 5" barrel, which I think is the only model they make for the Night Stalker , then that Hogue part # should work for you. You'll probably also need to pick up a set of standard 1911 grip screws as well. The factory grip screws that came on mine were a little short because the factory grips are really thin, so I used some standard length 1911 grip screws on mine.

@@jujuscustomshop ok...thanks for the info and tip!

@BafflingBS ... Glad the video was useful! I haven't tried the red Mobil 1 grease, but it would definitely be worth a shot. You'll know right away if it'll work or not...if it smokes heavily, then it's burning off and won't last long enough to protect the baffles. But if it doesn't smoke, then run about 100 rounds and pull the thread cap/piston out and see if the carbon wipes off the blast baffle easily. Titanium should be the same...several of my cans have titanium baffles and I clean them the same as the stainless baffles. I just bought another Omega 36M and Obsidian 45, along with a Hybrid 46M, Surge 762, and an Alaskan 360ti as well. Thanks for watching!

@rickalexander2801 ... Absolutely, put the grease on the baffles before the first use. After you put 200-300 rounds through it, when you run the baffles through the ultrasonic cleaner, all the gunk comes right off and will still look brand new, then you can re-apply the grease and be ready for the next use. I'm doing a little experiment now with my Obsidian 45 to find out how long the grease will last. I greased mine up, and I've used it on about 5 range trips so far, so it's probably got about 500 rounds through it since the last cleaning. I opened it up and ran my finger over the first baffle, and the carbon still wiped right off...so it seems to stay on there for a while. But keep in mind, I haven't done any fast mag dumps and I usually let my suppressors cool down a bit after I put a few mags through them. Glad the video help you out, and thanks for watching!

@PatrickGrabski ... it's a Flat K-Hole trigger from Fusion Firearms. You can get them directly from their website, or even find them on Ebay. It's made a couple thousandths oversized, so it might take a small amount of fitting to get it in your 1911 frame. Fitting it just takes a little filing on the rear of the top and bottom flats of the trigger.

@@jujuscustomshop that’s the one I was looking at. But it looks like the trigger bow is a bit different looking then what’s on the pistol from the factory, does it still work and fit perfect besides the filling work?

@@PatrickGrabski ... yes, it should be the same as long as your pistol has a standard 1911 trigger. I've used that same Fusion trigger in quite a few different 1911's with no issues at all. Some trigger bows are straight across the bottom, and some have a little foot that hangs down, but either one should fit. What model of 1911 do you have?

@@jujuscustomshop Okay perfect, thank you for all the information! I have the same tisas night stalker