That’s great to know cause i was just about to do just that!! Thank you

Appreciate the video, lots of good points. I think what's missing and could be added to future is mention of climate specifics, many of us live in states where dehumidifiers are a waste of money, anywhere. Southwest is best example of place where DH is a bad idea, waste of good money both upfront and ongoing costs, SouthEast & HI are great examples where this approach would probably work well. natural ventilation or very low powered exhast is a better approach IMO where your climate lets you get away with it, but that same approach will get you sued in FL or HI locals.

What did people do for the last 100 years before encapsulation became a thing. It’s great if you can afford it

I am guessing a dehumidifier and a sealed crawlspace is often the better answer, but that involves a lot more up front money, operating costs and maintenance than fans. i bought an old house with 70 years of crawlspace humidity issues and it shows big time. My humidity sensor will show 60% or less RH outside and RH in the high 80s in the crawlspace. If i can get fans to get that outside air replacing that humid crawlspace air, I will be in a whole lot better situation. You still have to get the right fan set up for that to happen and that i am afraid is easier said than done.

What if you have a wrap around porch that covers 1/3rd of your crawlspace ? New vapor barrier, open vents (8), just added two fans to keep air circulating. I was having issues with my hvac lines and ductwork sweating and causing water to pool only in those areas. Should I be trying to reinstate all of that? Or have I taken the proper measures at this point ?

😊👍🏿👍🏿

I've heard professionals recommend a ventilation system not to REPLACE a dehumidifier, but to add to an encapsulated crawlspace to prevent radon from having nowhere to escape but up through the house. Can you speak to this at all?

U need a fan end of story

I’m going to use that paint, but I waterproofed my basement from the inside first

What would be recommended for a crawlspace in a flood zone where hydrostatic pressure is a concern and from what I can tell FEMA requires a vent to relieve that pressure

In fairness, the vent fan is way better than no fan. Also, in my experience, homeowners do not properly remediate mold, they simply spray some disinfectant and hope for the best - like using this fan. That mold was probably there before the fan was installed.

This was much needed Thank you👍🏻🫶🏻

What about venting air out of the crawlspace toward the hottest side of the house? Also, how would I use retired indoor HVAC returns as part of a whole house ventilation system? Needless to say, my HVAC system died no thanks to local addicts that destroyed it to harvest copper. So, fed up, I yanked out everything, the ducts, system, etc. I wish I had not pulled out the ductwork, but if my theory is viable, then I'd run my own ducts and create a ventilation system that creates negative pressure inside my home and then all that sticky hot South Carolina air is exhausted outside. I also am thinking of positioning exhaust fans to push air out of the crawlspace, which in itself would increase air flow in my crawlspace. I've done a lot of research and made observations. The later May (2024) days were perfectly dreamy: cool, dry; negating use of even ceiling fans. But the payback is fast approaching as I brace for the hot humid summer months. Thus far, after learning how to use compass settings, time of day and hotter areas inside my house, this what I have concluded: The coolest area in my house is a finished garage with 9' ceilings, a concrete floor, that would be on the northeast side of my house. I hired a guy to tack radiant barriers in my attic, but like most day workers around here, he did only a part of the attic and disappeared. With a lot of radiant barrier on hand, I have cut sheets of it an tacked it over the windows with the greatest sun exposure (West). which happens to be the front of my house where large oaks and cedars align each side and provide shade (that results in a mold buildup on that side of my house). I hung heat-blocking window curtains throughout the front of an enclosed porch (done by the previous owner who'd not fathomed the energy vacuum all those windows were causing). Next, since I'd pulled out all the duct work (which I regret) for which I'd paid a few thousand to upgrade four years prior, I tried to stuff material inside the returns and remaining ducts behind the registers. I did not remove the registers thinking that they may come in handy one day. I've had numerous energy audits and everyone reminds me to install weatherstripping around doors, and they provide conflicting judgment regarding my insulation, which is plentiful, but may be upside down. I also learned that I do not push insulation to the far edges because that's where venting should provide air flow. So, I've got to cut in spaces to install those vents under my roof's overhang (whatever it's called). Then, I bought a new dehumidifier that's Energy Star rated. My older one ran up my electric bill, and I had not learned to not put it in an unsealed crawlspace. I had installed vapor barrier when I moved in, but I know I have to crawl under there to straighten it out and tape/seal the edges to prevent them from shifting and exposing the dirt. The dehumidifier I bought on sale at Walmart for $150 in March works great for pulling humidity from the air, but its blistering hot exhaust simply negates any value of dehumidification. What I noticed, however, is that after I'd emptied the bucket of water (that fills up in less than 8 hours here, which is across the street from the very large Lake Marion. So, I'm going to try allowing the moisture to drain continuously, which I'll direct outside onto a little garden I've started. Since Another thing I did for the first time living here (since 2014), I turn on a ventilation fan that the prior owner had installed in that covered sun porch. Maybe it's because of the gorgeously comfy May weather, I can't yet tell, but the subtle air flow is having a positive effect. I also have to check to see whether my attic's fan, positioned in the gable of the west facing side of my roof. It's supposed to kick on once it detects 95 degrees, which in the coastal plain of the Carolinas is pretty much constant. If that works, I am considering positioning a fan on the other end (northeast) and use it to pull cooler air from outside into the attic. Then, I plan to install a small room ventilator (like the one on the front porch and bathrooms) in what appears to be the central hot spot between my small kitchen (that has a mostly eastern and southern facing exposure. I've got to crawl under the house (which I hate doing) to find what I suspect is water leaking, and then replace and insulate the plumbing. I have a question, if anyone has gotten this far in my story, regarding whether to use my wood burning fireplace to exhaust the hot air from my dehumidifier. Or, whether to close and seal the flue during non-use months. Or how would one advise how I would use or not use my fireplace to exhaust air. Otherwise, I have to fashion a sealed hood and attach it somehow (probably aluminum duct tape) to the dehumidifier exhaust. And I remain flummoxed over whether to close/seal my crawlspace vents (which I do in winter) to prevent hot humid air from coming in which then collides with the relatively cool air, which, voila, contributes to punishing, suffocating humidity (that has ruined by solidifying my spices). In reading about these challenges recently, I'd delighted to confirm the use of rock salt as a natural moisture absorbent (and, for the Catholic-aware, help create a spiritual no- trespass barrier to help repel what clearly is an area overrun by nasty, diabolical entities. It works, it really does. I'll have to share how in another post somewhere). I love the idea of using charcoal, too, which I knew helped purify water and air. I'll place a bunch of coal in my fireplace, which faces the humid-hottest area of my house. Lastly, I'm a fan of ductless minisplits. I have one, a Blueridge unit sold by Kentucky-based Alpine Home Air, and had it installed on the south wall. The 12K BTU has performed brilliantly, and is so efficient that I can hardly tell by the utility bill that it's even drawing more current. I have to fix it, though. My fault that I'd decided to wash off the outside unit/compressor while I was angry about something. This interfered with cognition, as I failed to switch off the breaker. The water surged the mother board, and I've got to get a new one. (Alpine Home Air is the best! It truly is. I'd had a Senville unit 8-9 years ago that was nothing but trouble. I couldn't find anyone in the SC Lowcountry of Midlands that worked on minisplits, and finally, I reached the company's president at the company's headquarters in Canada. Dealing with a non-American company proved disappointing after I was ignored for two years, and by the time I got a response from Senville, the warranty had expired. (Regarding the Klimaire situation, the unit is made in China like most of these things, but the Amazon merchant is based in the United States. The avenues and regulatory advocacy authorities available and more often helpful in resolving such matters, were not able to resolve the totally wasted $800 I'd blown on the Klimaire 12K BTU minisplit. I wouldnt' recommend them, nor would I recommend a Senville unit unless they have esince established registered agents in our states. I am a honest to goodness fan of Alpine Home Air, which has superb customer and technical services, and its repair and parts division often carries parts for other manufacturer's units. They may not be the cheapest, but they are the best, and you do get what you pay for. So far, my response to sun positions, blocking, and closing off certain rooms not in use, or that's on a sunny side; positioning fans, ceiling fans has helped. I'd replaced all of my light bulbs years ago, hardly turn on lights other than to read, cook and clean; and I use a tankless water heater. I have four 100-watt solar panels and everything that goes with it, which I bought 8 years ago when money, physical strength, and inspired intent were abundant. (Not sure what I'll do with those.) My plan is to focus on ventilation, air movement, and strategic exhausting, which I've already observed has greatly reduced the dust buildup in my house that the multiple air purifiers don't seem to affect. Finally, based on my experience, recent learning, and your professional advice, [HydroHelp, from the beautiful Queen City Charlotte, where I happen to know as an area native is dominated by intolerant, demanding and uniquely knowledgeable clientele that expect excellence for their money, which has contributed to an area of exceptional professionalism in the trades and service providers. I should move back there so I could benefit from your decency, skill and knowledge. That region, to my recollection and recent knowledge, has companies that deploy uniquely reliable, proficient, and knowledgeable professionals blue collar and all. Not kidding. You are a breath of uncommon, ethically-infused fresh air that rises above the status quo environment choking with greedy predators, incompetence, exploitation and swindlers that for me, caused me to exhaust my entire savings to redo or lose whatever I'd paid these jackasses to do. At least that's been my experience in central South Carolina. We do have a response Consumer Affairs and Protection agency, but generally, one would have to retain a lawyer to recover from losses that aren't covered by insurance. And the bond that businesses tout having doesn't mean a thing to the customer, because the bond only helps defend the crooked contractor from liability and complaints. (Not many folks know that.)

Well. Going to get a vapor barrier.

That mold was probably there before the fan was installed.

I have a restoration company on NC do you do any work in Cleveland county?

Sir, I am so grateful for your video and explanation, this morning I saw a property in fayetteville, NC there isn't any moisture barrier at all and insulation hanging mid air. I saw a second property, got word the encapsulated crawl space was done 2021...sounds like a winner. Again, thank you.

So I was advised on a push/pull fan set up for a small crawl space that is making an “addition” to the house, because there’s no structural damage but musty smelling in a small spot of that add on. Would this be the best route than? 1950s wood frame house in Central Florida (heat and humidity)….

19k for mine, had standing water in heavy rains, no mold. 1200sqft 24" height (low working height) contactor hand dug added drainage pipe and gravel, added sump pump 60' exterior drain pipe, pier and wall encapsulation with insulation. Aldair dehumidifier with remote controller.

I was hoping these videos would so you how to nail all the studs together. That would be super helpful

4/30/2024 - A vent well will prevent water from entering the crawl space, if water is pooling around the vent well at a level higher than the bottom of the vent.

Thank you for the information

Very interesting how that is... those holes are barely 5 feet apart!! Lol.

I wish y'all were in Texas! I've never heard of a sump pump installation for anywhere near $2k. Most I've seen were around $9k and I just got an estimate for $11.6k. What factors would cause the cost to go so high? Or am I being overcharged?

So is using flex duct ok?. The outlet on my Aprilair is 10 inch. Only 1064 square feet, but there is an L area under the laundry room that would benefit if I have the output pushed more that way, or would I want the draw to be near that area?. Thanks

Great job and honest answer, great explanation

An account that sells the service asks the question and the answer is always yes. How surprising.

So let me see if I'm understanding your argument. Since there is an absence of regulations on mold removal method, you argue that spraying or fogging for mold is "cutting corners". Let me ask you what evidence do you have to support this argument? Also the stat on the percentage of water in bleach is incorrect in any bottle ive seen, though it is over 90% water. Fogging a mold killer gets into cracks no other method gets to, also reduces the water saturation issue you speak of to the point that a blower under the home fixes the issue quickly. You could even slide a dehumidifier under for a day.

We had grading done and a sump pump. Crawl space wetness is under control. But, when grading, dirt was piled up against one side of the house covering the vents. THe dirt was piled up to create a slope away from the house and a swale. Should I put vent wells in to open up circulation in the crawl space or because the vents are now below grade, will that cause water to get in? Right now, though they are covered, water does not come in them. Our crawl space is open to our front porch for ventilation and has ventilation on one other side. What do you think?

I was quoted 19k for an 800 sq ft house for encapsulation

$2980, 1550 sqft crawlspace. Did it on my own, by Crawlspace Ninja guidelines. 1.5 months on weekends. I was quoted $18k. Now I will say this, I will never do it again. I can see why its pricey. Labor intensive when most everything is done on your back or side. Some sitting. Max height is 3ft in mine. But the benefits are awesome. Noticed them about one month after approaching spring. Barely run the heat. Crawlspace stays within 3-4 degrees of the house

Very nice detailed explanation. I know you will be successful if you are a honest hard worker.

Keep your money.. It isn't worth it.

Most expert would recommend 16 inches away from the wall. And the trench should be 15 to 16 inches deep.

It looks like you’re lip-syncing in not a good-way

Getting estimates now for 1000sqft crawl, no major issues, just humidity and condensation in summer (NC). So far, the estimates have ranged from $6700 to $21000. The low estimate did not include a dehumidifier. We've had 5 estimates so far and what I find interesting as a potential customer is they all do it differently and they don't ask or care what the customer wants. When I ask if they can do something I want or prefer, the answer is usually 'no, we don't do it that way'. As a customer, I'm having difficulty finding a company that will do what I want.

I have to think it really depends on where the moisture is coming from. I'm in southern california, with very low humidity. I have a house on a low lying lot. The water table rises, I pump the water out but the soil stays super moist. I turn the fans on and the humidity level drops significantly. Typically, the temp difference between crawl space and exterior is maybe 10-20 degrees and the humidity difference is 50%. Interested to know what you think the solution would be there.

I have a small 920 sq ft house with maybe 2-3 ft in height underneath. I was quoted $9500 for my crawl space to be cleaned out, encapsulated, sealed, dehumidifier, and lights. I live in central Arkansas

You're a bit pricey on the D-Hue paid $1500 for April air E80.

For sewage, I think it's because it potentially overburdens the municipal sewage system and treatment plant. But, let's also not forget that the outgoing water amount, would not match the incoming water supply -- which is metered -- and thus the town/city is not getting paid for carrying away the 'excess' water.

I hope that sump pump cost is the pump, pit and plumbing.

Their names and reputations are on the line Everytime!

As an HVAC business owner we LOVE you guys!! I just found your channel and will be referring you guys up here in Hickory assuming you work in Hickory?

I have a bucket in a hole in my crawl space in case of a flood or pipes breaking. My sub pump is not installed in there. It's sitting in the pole barn. Now having said that I have not ran a dehumidifier because of gutter draining issues, so would just open the crawl space door and draw air out with a fan. Now that the gutters have been installed, I will be purchasing a dehumidifier. Should I install the sub pump in the bucket and have the dehumidifier drain in there or can I just drain it our a small hole? Is putting the dehumidifier on a stand enough to run the hose out a hole?

Early 90s we callnd it liner.header over 6ft double it out.

Wish we would've seen this video 3 years ago. Here's our experience with a similar situation. LONG STORY HERE: We had a Subterranean Termite infestation and hired a highly rated pest company to get rid of them. During the investigation and estimate they looked around our home and in our crawlspace, thankfully, none were found in our crawl space but found several just outside of it. As we were preparing the contract to have the termites removed we were told our crawlspace was sealed improperly and it would attract termites into it in the future. The salesman told us it was too dry and had seen it cause Drywood Termite issues for others. He sold us on much better they do things to save home owners the grief of having to deal with critters in the future, told us they seal crawlspaces properly, said he was licensed to do moisture barriers, and said he had several people in his crew that also did construction. Being the young naive first-time homeowners, we believed it was an issue and we paid an extra $1,600 for the barrier to be "fixed". Fast forward to today: Our crawlspace is now very humid, we saw that what they had done was basically cut the barrier from the walls, we saw rodent dropping, and we think we might have mold in there. We live in Northwest Oregon. It's very humid here and mold is always an issue for homeowners. Our home is 20 years old but before the termites we never had an issue with humidity in our home. We thought it was our windows. After spending our savings on home repairs to try and fix the moisture issue we finally found the problem. LIVE AND LEARN Glad you're educating others. We're looking into which company to contact for an estimate and hope the damage isn't worse than we think. We'll need a new barrier, treat the mold, reduce the humidity, new foundation vents(the rats ate through the mesh wire), and will need removal of any biological waste, etc. We only found the problem because we heard frogs coming from our vents. When we couldn't find them we called HVAC company we've used for 7 years to clean our vents. They found the problem, gave us a huge discount for our woes, and told us it "sucks" LOL!

encapsulation+ dehumidifier - yes... but also need a low CFM exit fan out of the house to channel radon or other earth gases out. I was personally surprised at how quickly my dehumidifier affected my living space before i had even added a dehumidifier for the bathroom. The thing ran 24/7 until i had encapsulated about 90% at which point it started turning off. Crawlspace care was one of the best investments made thus far. But, since the house has only been min less than a year, I amn tasked with chasing down the other elements of neglect i.e. rotting floor joists and sagging beams. to name a few.

With that accent, I 100% trust this guy. Great video!

Completely dried my crawl space. I worry that it’s too dry now. One fan is all it took. I couldn’t afford all that fancy stuff. Less than $200 fan from Home Depot did the job. It’s been 2 years now.

Dude I do t know what your talking about How can you compare electrician and plumber Maybe if you said window washer and janitor What training here’s pressurized tank with comical and spray that’s it. To train it takes less than 5 min 👍🏻🤣