Scarlet 380SL project

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@kabumurat5443 18 күн бұрын

I also want to overhaul my WUR. it is the same as theirs. Can you write me the spare part number?

@djcableseattle Ай бұрын

Nice work. I envy the easily accessible adjusters that the 8 cylinder fuel distributor has. On my 4 cylinder distributor, the adjusters are on the bottom. . After a couple of times of unbolting the thing to access the adjusters I finally just started using a clamp to push in the control plunger. Then a few months later I swapped in a HFM m104, and have been happily k-jetronic free ever since.

@djcableseattle Ай бұрын

I meant I used the clamp while I balanced the system. It all worked out, and ran great, but I’m glad to no longer have it.

@GandaGarage 26 күн бұрын

Thanks for sharing, maybe some day I need to look into the HFM m104 as well.

@CañonAlonso 2 ай бұрын

Very hard work, I have to do the in my 300 E 24. Thanks.

@arhimond7 2 ай бұрын

Does the car run well when filling at 100cc/min? Our specialists usually set it to 160-170

@GandaGarage Ай бұрын

Yes, the car runs very well. I actually leaned it out a bit with the center screw to fine tune the mixture (using an oscilloscope) later. I hope to find some time to post more video's about that after summer.

@arhimond7 Ай бұрын

@@GandaGarage the CO screw regulates filling only at xx and minimum feeds, at higher speeds it does not affect filling

@dewispew Ай бұрын

@@arhimond7 OK makes sense, so maybe I should indeed try it at 160cc/min some day. This is my first R107, thus I cannot compare.

@arhimond7 Ай бұрын

@@dewispew there is an idea that 100cc is not the full disc deflection, but somewhere around 75%, which is achieved by their original device

@danielalmagro9649 3 ай бұрын

Espectacular!!! A velocidad normal estaría mejor, para mi gusto. Muchas gracias

@vmviitanen 3 ай бұрын

Awesome video! When you took out those clogged little filters, did you put them back in, or did you just leave them out.

@GandaGarage 3 ай бұрын

I left them out. They were to far gone, and I didn't want to risk that pieces would go in the system.

@wojciechchudzinski2445 3 ай бұрын

Thank you for the great video. I checked my fuel installation and have the following questions: 1. How to increase the fuel pressure in the pressure regulator to 5-5.6 bar, I have 4.8 bar. (closed valve)? 2. Fuel flows through the WUR but the pressure is only 1 bar instead of 1.8-2.2 bar (valve open). WUR to be repaired?

@GandaGarage 3 ай бұрын

You can increase the system pressure by adding washers to the fuel pressure regulator at the back driver side of the fuel distributor. Best to check your fuel pump and lines first; I added a washer, then later changed my fuel pump, and pressure was too high after that. Your system pressure at 1 bar is too low. To me that feels like the WUR is not clogged like mine, otherwise system pressure would be too high. It springs or other components might indeed be broken, allowing to much fuel flow. Or there could also be an issue in the return line to your fuel distributor. I am not sure how to diagnose that best step by step.

@PierreHippolyte 3 ай бұрын

This video was one of the best I have seen yet about this subject. No dialogue is good; it is well-lit and very informative about the disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling of the parts. You're the man. Thank you 👍👍👍

@JimDimantT 4 ай бұрын

Are the parts the same for a Mercedes 500 SEL??

@GandaGarage 3 ай бұрын

I have no experience with 500 SEL, thus sorry but no idea

@fornman 5 ай бұрын

Ganda Garage, thanks so much for investing your time into these videos! I bought a family member's Euro 500sl this spring, and I'm looking forward to bringing it back to life. These videos will help!

@henrydavey2547 5 ай бұрын

What a brilliant and very helpful video. Thank you.

@arhimond7 5 ай бұрын

Hi, how much do you need to unscrew the screws to get 100 ml per minute?

@GandaGarage 3 ай бұрын

It is really trial and error. And different for every unit. I went in small 1/4 and 1/8 turns to balance it out.

@antonmessner9040 6 ай бұрын

sehr gutes VIDEO!!!! BRAVO!!!

@arhimond7 6 ай бұрын

3.0 should be without vacuum, 3.8 with it.

@Charlie-dv7ev 8 ай бұрын

Man, this is exactly what I need to get my customer's vehicle running proper! Thanks for vid!

@citroenmeet 8 ай бұрын

Why do you need that stupid music ?

@excelerater 9 ай бұрын

prehistoric

@RGTification 9 ай бұрын

Hi, great video resource, i am curious about the timing and the new advance, did find out the issue..?

@GandaGarage 9 ай бұрын

Yes, the new green cable was the issue. Re-installed the old one and was able to time it correctly. I repaired my 'old' green cable with epoxy glue, but still need to find a permanent solution for that. For my USA 380SL, timing is straightforward; disconnect the vacuum from the advance unit and plug the hose. Set timing to TDC at idle. Then reconnect vacuum; it should advance to 15-17 degrees at idle.

@RGTification 9 ай бұрын

Hi, did you ever made a video for timing and the advance you installed?

@GandaGarage 9 ай бұрын

Looks like I didn't make a video for that yet. I don't have time now, but I am planning to get back to it. For my USA 380SL, timing is straightforward; disconnect the vacuum from the advance unit and plug the hose. Set timing to TDC. Then reconnect vacuum; it should advance to 15-17 degrees at idle.

@ditka8165 11 ай бұрын

I need to get to where the vacuum advance (distributor) line plugs into the throttle valve housing as it has been disconnected at the housing. Does everything in your video need to be removed to gain access? Any alternatives? Thanks

@GandaGarage 10 ай бұрын

It is very difficult to get to the vacuum lines on the throttle housing without removing the air mixer, but this thread here might give you an alternative. Success: www.benzworld.org/threads/1982-380sl-vacuum-advance.3128484/post-18660968

@douglet2294 11 ай бұрын

so are you saying that part number 158 A1265407045 only fits years after 83?

@GandaGarage 11 ай бұрын

Best is to check your connector before ordering. The documentation says A 126 540 70 45 is installed as of engine: 962 016926 ALSO INSTALLED ON 016887 963 031859

@krh007 11 ай бұрын

Man that background music was doing my head in. Good DIY setup and i am going to follow your path on my 3 x 560 300hp Euro engines.

@douglet2294 11 ай бұрын

Is there like any manuals or in depth instructions and tools needed to remove the air flow sensor I've been looking like crazy and i cant seem to find nothing anything helps i got a 500 sel

@GandaGarage 11 ай бұрын

I don't know the 500sel, but these instructions for the 560sl might put you on the right path: www.tonk.ca/Index/117.5/07MechElec.htm. I did not need special tools for my 380SL

@that_random_dad Жыл бұрын

Great videos. Nicely lit, in focus, and no blah blah blah. Thanks for creating this valuable resource for the community.

@alaingillot4718 Жыл бұрын

Go to a junk yard and buy old cis lines .

@excelerater Жыл бұрын

i need a new tank

@excelerater Жыл бұрын

the one mistake MB did....fuel should go past the filter then the pump,this set up is the opposite

@karansaneinia1821 Жыл бұрын

How can I get the video in slow motion 😂

@dewispew Жыл бұрын

Use the KZfaq playback speed setting to slow down 😆

@asarnth Жыл бұрын

Love your videos! I have an 85 380SL for a while now and it has never been running for years. Fuel system was shot and have to replace many parts including sending out fuel manifold to CIS Flow Tech to get it rebuild. I brought the car to mechanic who specializes in SL and got it running but not to the point that I can test drive on the road, and I have to move to other state. The car started fine and idle at 700 rpm but if I rep it up, it will bog and die right away so I wait several minutes till it warmed up before step on gas, it got to 1800 RPM then bogged down. The WUR was also rebuild few times and the latest rebuild, follow your video. I disassembled WUR and changed some adjustment with tapping the bi-metal pin back up flush to the surface but no change there except making the idle worse and control and system pressure still very high. I tapped it back down from the top and still no change in fuel pressure. I have rigged the fuel pressure test kit exactly like yours and follow steps the same way. When pump is turned on, Initial Control pressure test with fuel shutoff OFF, the gage reads 7.2 bar. System pressure also reads 8.2. When engine started, the gage reads 8.2 bar. I let it run for several minutes and monitored WUR temp rise, but gage still read at 8.2. I also loosen the return line on top WUR and fuel squirt right out so no clog there. I test resistant on bi-metal on WUR and power to it and it seemed to be working fine. I thought the fuel pump is bad so bought and installed new Bosh pump and now control and system pressure is way up to around 10 bar. Any suggestion is kindly appreciated.

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

Sounds like your system pressure is very high. That is controlled by the system pressure regulator, at the left (driver side) back of the fuel distributor. It can be adjusted by adding or removing chimes. But as it is very high here, I would first check whether your fuel return line (from fuel distributor back to fuel tank) is not clogged.

@mattcass1 Жыл бұрын

Great resource, thanks for taking the time to make the video. What an improvement and job well done! I have my 84 380sl on stands, about to tackle this same job.

@bikeman123 Жыл бұрын

At 17:59 you show the plunger being held in by a bent clip. Ive seen other videos set the plunger low position. How would the plunger's lowest position be set on this distributor?

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

The bent clip is only there to avoid the plunger to fall out. Once built-in, the plunger would rest on the lever arm of the air flow sensor, thus not on the clip. And the lever of the airflow sensor is kept in closed position by a pin in the air housing that can be tapped down to adjust.

@bikeman123 Жыл бұрын

My fuel pump goes noisy and the car jerks after 15mins driving. I suspect the fuel pressure valve is not working and the high pressure strains the pump. The valve (on left at 0:47) looks like its adjustable. I cant turn the allen key. Is it adjustable?

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

To adjust, you would have to remove the complete system pressure regulator (the valve you saw at 0:47) and add or remove shims to change the pressure. Also, first check if the return line to your tank is not clogged.

@bikeman123 Жыл бұрын

What are the fittings at the distributor? Thanks

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

0:50 : M10x1 male

@eugenioqose Жыл бұрын

what parts did you use for the pipes, can you provide info here please? love your videos

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

0:20 : 3/16" 4.75mm copper break line

@sas8403 Жыл бұрын

i have just rebuilt mine and it leaked at the orange gasket, i see at 7:32, you brushed something on the plater before applying the gasket, what was this, is it needed to form a good seal

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

It is not needed. I just applied some silicone grease to keep the gasket in place. Are you saying it is leaking fuel at the orange gasket? That is surprising as that is an air gasket between 2 two vacuum chambers. Fuel should stay above the metal membrane at the top of the WUR. Your rubber o-ring (see 8:12) might be bad.

@sas8403 Жыл бұрын

@@GandaGarage no the fueling side is fine, no leaking at all, when i put the orange membrane in and bolted the wur together i can blow threw the vac line and feel it coming out the top vent hole, just cant seal it, am i suppose to use a sealent of some sort with the orange gasket

@sas8403 Жыл бұрын

ok resealed and now i can apply 0.5 bar positive pressure but it will bleed of within 3 secs, fuel enrichment drops to spec when this is carried out

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

OK, I am not sure how to test correct operation. But as this vacuum system is reacting temporarily to changing conditions, such as acceleration, this bleed off might be as intended.

@bikeman123 Жыл бұрын

Can you tell me what is the fuel damper for? The part you've undone at 0:38. How can it be tested?

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

This is simply a hollow buffer between the fuel tank and the pump. I assume to avoid pump pulsation to travel back in the tank. The third line is the leak line from the fuel accumulator. As long as the accumulator is OK, it should not be leaking thus this is only a safety for in case the accumulator diaphragm fails.

@sandropaulozza6778 Жыл бұрын

Just came across your video. Great stuff! It looked to me that on the vacuum line between the manifold "X" fitting and the WUR, you used some type of brass fitting in place of the plastic white and green throttle orifice. Did I see that correctly? If so, what did you use and why?

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your question, but I don't get what you are referring to. At what timestamp in the video did you see that?

@sandropaulozza6778 Жыл бұрын

@@GandaGarage Sure thing. The first time i notice the fitting, it shows up at 9:22 and then again at 9:53, where you show the vacuum lines attached to the WUR. If I'm seeing and understanding it correctly, the brass fitting at the end of the vacuum line will get connected to the "X" fitting that plugs into the manifold vacuum port. For reference, the other two ports on the "X" would connect to the distributor vacuum line and the green line in the foreground (I think). Thanks again.

@stevemccormick4938 Жыл бұрын

Great information. Thanks for providing the video.

@petercastro2413 Жыл бұрын

Hi, I’m getting a high idle around 1200 at operating temperature. I cleaned and checked the valve, it closes with a 9 volt battery and I read about 4volts at the terminals with the engine running. I’m trying to decide between a faulty valve or a bad ignition control module. Do you have any suggestions on testing to determine which may be faulty? Thanks!

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

Hi Peter, as it sounds like your valve is working, you could try disconnecting it while the engine is idling. If nothing changes, this could indicate no signal is coming to the valve, i.e a bad icu, or bad cabling between icu and the valve. You can also measure the signal coming from the ICU; it is a complex modulated signal, but if you measure no potential at all, that is another indication the icu might be bad. If you have a power supply with current control (as in the video), you could connect that to the valve (ICU disconnected) and gradually close it while the car is idling, the rpm should decrease then. If not, you might have an air leak elsewhere in the system. Success

@petercastro2413 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the reply. I’m borrowing a variable voltage and amp meter and I’m going to test the valve. I tested it on the car I got about 4.5 volts at the valve and 180 mA. This is at operating temperature. Cold it showed 480mA and voltage up to 4.6V. I’m suspecting the valve. The voltage is in range but the amps are not. I cleaned the Icv by soaking it in carburetor cleaner and sonicating at 60C.

@petercastro2413 Жыл бұрын

@EIRK2046Y Жыл бұрын

Fuel pump + fuel filter x 2 + fuel pressure regulator. I think it is for old mechanical k-jetronic injection system.

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

Yes this is for an 1983 380SL with K-jetronic

@EIRK2046Y Жыл бұрын

@@GandaGarage O.K - It is German precision mechanical gasoline injection. Must use Non-Etanol gas - if possible. No problem to repair it. Nice piece of engineering.

@ianpaularano6926 Жыл бұрын

I'm lost for words....simply systematic and thorough... Blessed by years of experience and sincere passion... I also maintain my own w126 sec380 m116 engine same jetronic fuel system and w116 450 sel m117 engine in d jetronic fuel system.. Also did a kjet distributor rebuild....but man....yours is most thorough!!! I learned how to do it Better next time... I wish one day, you can content a D Jetronic system....I'm eagerly following your channel. You just made your subscriber..God less for good fortune and long life😇😇😇

@Phillologist Жыл бұрын

Great Video. I have a 1986/1987 VW JETTA using the CIS Lambda system, but I believe the system pretty much works the same way. Thanks for posting.

@shamrock2422 Жыл бұрын

G.J.

@TheJCPHantom Жыл бұрын

Did you find that you need that aluminum washer? Do you think the fittings will leak without it?

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

The injector lines do have that kind of a washer, that is why I added it. Even with the bubble flare, the lines sink a bit below the top of the in the fuel distributor connections, which makes me think they are necessary to avoid leaks.

@thebrain7693 Жыл бұрын

would be more useful if u showed what u adjusted...

@petnation4970 Жыл бұрын

Hello can you tell me where does the hose on top of the intake manifold the breather hose connect to. Thank you

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

Not sure which one you are referring to. But I do have a video where I reassemble the whole thing, you can most likely see it there: studio.kzfaq.infoNCQsOqaEkVo/edit

@robertlejeune7578 Жыл бұрын

Excellent video! I have the same issue on my ‘81. I will try the same repair.

@mukipeter2476 Жыл бұрын

Could you tell me if I can buy the pin separately to the regulator

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

No idea, I guess not.

@njlarry100 Жыл бұрын

Goes a little fast for me to keep up. Where and how are pressure guage and pump switch connected. Thank you.

@GandaGarage Жыл бұрын

Thanks, I am trying to keep the video's short. Feel free to slow down and pause using the youtube controls. There is more detail on the installing the pressure gauge and switch in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fdyPl9WgyLupe6M.html

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