Hey there, As a well-seasoned mechanic, Frank has several tricks he has learned along the way that are helpful to him. He does know the exact pressure he needs to hold to stabilize the gearcase without scratching it. That being said, it is not recommended if you are not familiar with the technique. If you do decide to use wooden sticks to help you with this project, wrap the contact point with a microfiber cloth! Happy Boating!

Hey there, Can you explain in more detail whats going on? I would be happy to give some advice if possible. I look forward to your reply.

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When reinstalling a Yamaha gearcase, it's important to ensure that the gearcase is in neutral to avoid any issues during reassembly. Here's how you can check: 1. **Shift Position Check:** Before reinstalling, manually check the shift position on the gearcase. You can do this by turning the shift shaft on the gearcase. Neutral is typically found between the positions for forward and reverse. In neutral, the propeller shaft should rotate freely in both directions without engaging the gears. 2. **Visual Indicator:** Some Yamaha models have a visual indicator or marking on the shift shaft or housing that shows the neutral position. Check your owner's manual or service manual for specific instructions related to your model. 3. **Propeller Rotation:** With the gearcase in neutral, the propeller should spin freely without engaging the engine. If you feel resistance or the propeller engages when turning, the gearcase may not be in neutral. 4. **Shift Control:** Ensure the boat's shift control is also in the neutral position. This alignment is crucial to prevent misalignment or damage to the gearcase during installation. 5. **Manual Reference:** Always refer to the specific manual for your Yamaha model for detailed instructions, as the procedure can vary slightly between models. Following these steps should help ensure that your Yamaha gearcase is properly set in neutral before reinstallation.

Hey there, Thank you for watching. I think Frank was speaking a little out of context, and meant to not run the engine before having a steady stream of water. You can absolutely flush out of the water. You should also make sure you turn off the engine before turning off the water. It is imperative that at no point your engine runs without a steady stream of water as even 20 seconds or more of dry running can damage your engine and run the risk of overheating. If you are using muffs, make sure they are attached snugly enough, and that the water is flowing through before starting your engine. Make sure the water has a steady supply and there are no kinks in the hose. Start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes keeping a watchful eye of the water supply and making sure the water is coming out the telltale. If you are using a flushing port, the same rules apply. If you do not see water running through you may need to check for a blockage. Doing this every time you get out of the saltwater helps prevent corrosion.

Hey there, Thanks for watching, So that is going to depend. There are different reasons it may be stuck, also not sure if you are referring to the gearcase being stuck, or the bolts being stuck. You don't want to do anything that is going to potentially crack the gearcase, so I am gonna say you may want to visit a marine mechanic. Email me at [email protected] with more details and I'll see what if any tricks we have for you!

@@partsvu the driveshaft from the lower is stuck in the crank, the bolts are all removed. The lower is separated about 1/2” but is stuck hard. We have tried putting the engine in gear and reverse but still stuck

Squeaky noises in your Yamaha 150 4-stroke outboard motor can indeed be caused by salt buildup in the shaft bushings. This is a common issue, especially in saltwater environments, as salt can cause corrosion and build up, leading to squeaking and other noises. Cleaning and greasing the shaft bushings can help resolve this issue. Here are the general steps you might take to address this problem: Remove the propeller: Take off the propeller to access the shaft and bushings. Clean the shaft and bushings: Use a brush and some water to clean off any salt buildup or debris. You may also use a mild detergent if necessary. Grease the shaft and bushings: Apply marine grease to the shaft and bushings to lubricate them and prevent further salt buildup. It's important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and guidelines for maintenance. If you're unsure about any step, it's best to consult with a professional or refer to your motor's service manual. Happy Boating!

Hey There, Thanks for watching. The nut can be reused several times over so long as there is no corrosion. If you have the slightest bit of corrosion change it out as you risk the chance of your propeller falling off in the water. The cotter pin can be reused, but for the price, we do not recommend it. Let us know if you have any other questions! Happy boating!

If the gear oil won't come out of the oil level screw on your Yamaha outboard and it won't accept any more gear lube, it suggests there might be an issue with the ventilation, a blockage, or improper procedure. Here's a step-by-step approach to troubleshoot and resolve the issue: Check Ventilation: Ensure the upper vent screw is completely removed. If it’s partially blocked or not removed, it can create a vacuum, preventing oil from flowing properly. Inspect for Blockages: Inspect both the oil fill and oil level screws for any debris or blockage. Clean them if necessary. Use a small wire or similar tool to check for blockages in the oil passages. Proper Filling Procedure: Verify that you are following the correct procedure for filling gear oil. Typically, the oil should be pumped into the lower oil fill screw until it begins to flow out of the upper oil level screw. Use Proper Tools: Use a suitable gear oil pump to fill the lower unit. This ensures that the oil is being pumped in at the right pressure. Warm the Oil: Gear oil can be thick and viscous, especially in colder temperatures. Warming the oil slightly (not too hot, just warm) can make it flow more easily. Check for Oil Leaks: Inspect the seals and gaskets around the oil fill and level screws. Damaged seals can cause issues with pressure and oil flow. Seek Professional Help: If the issue persists, there may be an internal problem with the gear case. It might be necessary to consult a professional mechanic or take your outboard to a service center for a thorough inspection.

Hey Alberto, There are several reasons why a Yamaha motor might not turn a propeller, including but not limited to issues with the fuel system, battery, or carburetor: Fuel filter A clogged fuel filter can prevent enough fuel from passing through to turn the engine over. Fuel pump A failing fuel pump can cause vibrations in the engine, especially at higher speeds. Battery A low battery can cause the engine to crank slowly, while a dead battery can prevent it from turning over at all. Use a voltmeter to check the battery's voltage and charge it to around 12.6 volts. Carburetor Carburetor adjustments that are too lean, or that don't allow enough fuel to start the engine, can also be an issue. The carburetor may also need to be cleaned or replaced. If none of these work you should contact your marine mechanic for assistance.

Thank you for watching. Our goal is to help boaters like you be more informed and self-sufficient! See you on the water!

Hey there, Thanks for watching and thank you for commenting. The engine Frank is working on in this video like many F75, F90, F150, F175, and F200 engines does not have a thermostat housing gasket! In the event that your engine does, make sure that is changed when changing your thermostat. Let us know if we can help with anything else. Happy Boating!

Thanks for your question. Using the built-in levers (often called "tilt locks" or "tilt stops") on an outboard motor to stop movement is generally intended for short-term situations, such as when the boat is out of the water for maintenance or when the motor is being transported over a short distance. MY-WEDGE might be preferred over these built-in levers for longer-term use or during transportation to avoid strain. The MY-WEDGE transom saver helps distribute the weight of the motor and reduce the stress on the transom, especially when the boat is being trailered over long distances. This can prevent damage to both the transom and the motor's mounting bracket. The built-in levers may not provide enough stabilization to prevent the motor from bouncing or shifting during transportation. The MY-WEDGE transom saver offers a more secure way to keep the motor in place, reducing the risk of damage. The MY-WEDGE transom saver also allows for better control of the motor's angle, keeping it in an optimal position that minimizes strain on the hydraulic system and motor mounts. Hope this helps! Happy Boating!

We agree, Frank is pretty awesome!

Hey, Thanks for watching! Finding caramel-colored or milky gear lube in your lower unit usually indicates the presence of water, which can be concerning. However, given that your pressure test didn't show any loss in pressure, there are a few potential reasons and considerations to explore: 1. Residual Water Contamination Even after changing the gear lube, some residual water could have remained in the lower unit. If not thoroughly drained or if water was still present in pockets within the unit, it could mix with the new lube, causing it to appear milky again. 2. Small Leaks While an 8-pound pressure test overnight showed no drop in pressure, it's possible that small, intermittent leaks might not have been detected. Consider running a higher pressure test, closer to 15-20 psi, for a few hours and also performing a vacuum test to check for minor leaks. 3. Condensation In some cases, condensation can build up inside the lower unit, especially if the boat is used in cold water or if it undergoes frequent temperature changes. This can cause the gear lube to become milky over time. 4. Oil Seal Issues Even if your pressure test was successful, the oil seals around the propeller shaft or driveshaft could be marginally allowing water to enter when the unit is in use. Inspect these seals for wear or damage. 5. Vent Plug and Drain Plug Seals Check the condition of the O-rings or gaskets on your vent and drain plugs. If these seals are worn out or damaged, they can allow water to seep into the lower unit. If this is causing concern consider visiting a certified tech for more help! Good luck Buddy.

Hey there, thanks for watching. I would be stoked to help. The correct thermostat for a 2005 F250TXRD is 67F-12411-01-00. Let me know if we can help with anything else Bud! www.partsvu.com/yamaha-f75-f90-f150-f200-f225-f250-thermostat-60c-67f-12411-01-00.html

Thanks for watching! Typically, one MY-WEDGE transom saver is designed to provide adequate support for the outboard motor during transportation. It helps to stabilize the motor and reduce stress on the transom. If you have a particularly large or heavy outboard motor, using two transom savers might provide additional stability and support. However, this is not commonly needed.

Thank for watching! If your Yamaha trim tab anode on the starboard side is spinning but not coming out, it does sound like the bolt might be stripped. While turning the bolt, apply downward pressure on the anode with a flathead screwdriver or pry bar. This can sometimes help engage the threads enough to remove the bolt. You can try to Apply penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the bolt and let it sit for a while. This can help loosen any corrosion or debris holding the bolt in place.If the above methods do not work, you may need to drill out the bolt. Start with a small drill bit and gradually increase the size until the bolt can be removed. Be careful not to damage the threads in the mounting hole. If you are having a rough go I would suggest contacting an experienced marine mechanic to avoid damaging the lower unit. When installing the new anode, consider using an anti-seize compound on the bolt threads to make future removal easier and prevent corrosion. Best of luck.

Changing the livewell and bilge pump in your 14 ft Sea Nymph Ray Gapen model boat involves a series of steps and considerations to ensure proper installation and functionality. Here’s a general guide to help you through the process: Tools and Materials Needed: New livewell and bilge pump (ensure they are compatible with your boat’s size and requirements) Hose clamps Marine-grade hoses Electrical connectors and wiring Screwdrivers Wrenches Pliers Sealant (marine-grade) Steps to Change Livewell and Bilge Pump: Prepare the Boat: Remove any gear or equipment stored around the livewell and bilge pump areas to allow easy access. Ensure the boat is on a stable surface and consider supporting it on jack stands if needed. Locate Existing Livewell and Bilge Pump: Identify the current location of the livewell and bilge pump in your boat. This may involve accessing compartments or openings in the boat’s hull. Disconnect Power: Turn off all power sources to the livewell and bilge pump. This typically involves disconnecting the battery or turning off the main power switch. Remove Old Components: Disconnect the hoses connected to the livewell and bilge pump. Unscrew or disconnect the mounting bolts or brackets holding the pumps in place. Carefully remove the old livewell and bilge pump units from their mounting locations. Prepare New Components: Install new hose clamps on the ends of the hoses. If necessary, modify hoses or fittings to ensure they fit properly with the new livewell and bilge pump units. Install New Livewell and Bilge Pump: Position the new livewell and bilge pump units in the designated locations. Securely fasten them using appropriate bolts, screws, or brackets. Connect the hoses to the new units, ensuring they are tightly secured with hose clamps. Connect Electrical Wiring: Follow the manufacturer's instructions to connect the electrical wiring for the new livewell and bilge pump units. Use marine-grade connectors and ensure all connections are secure and waterproof. Test the System: Once everything is installed, reconnect the battery or power source. Test the operation of the new livewell and bilge pump units to ensure they function correctly. Check for any leaks or issues with hose connections. Secure and Seal: Use marine-grade sealant to seal around any openings or fittings to prevent water ingress. Ensure all components are securely fastened and properly sealed. Cleanup and Final Inspection: Remove any tools or debris from the boat. Conduct a final inspection to verify that the livewell and bilge pump are installed correctly and are functioning as expected. Safety Considerations: Work in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety guidelines for handling electrical components and marine equipment. If you are unsure about any part of the installation process, consult a professional marine technician or boat mechanic for assistance. By following these steps, you should be able to successfully change the livewell and bilge pump in your Sea Nymph Ray Gapen model boat.

Yes sir. He is the owner and operator of Platinum Mobile Marine LLC. He is highly recommended with tremendous experience!

Hello, Thank you for watching our video. These Videos are not created by request of customers therefore they are not specific. I would be happy to help you find a thermostat for your engine. Please email [email protected] with your serial number. Thank you!

Thanks for watching! Yes, a bad water pump on your Mercury outboard can indeed cause an alarm without triggering any specific error codes. Modern outboard motors are equipped with sensors and alarms that monitor critical functions such as engine temperature and water flow. The water pump in your outboard is responsible for circulating water through the engine to prevent overheating. If the water pump fails or is not pumping water adequately the alarm may not sound. Check for signs of water flow from the tell-tale or pee hole. If there’s no water flow or it’s irregular, the water pump may be failing. Have a qualified marine technician inspect the water pump and replace it if necessary. Good luck Buddy.