Thanks, I noticed the the switch being brass and thought it’d fit well.

Thanks so much! I’ve got the box set aside now in some Evaporust. Should start the process soon!

Gracias, voy considerar para el próximo video.

Sorry, I haven’t the slightest. eBay would be a good start.

There’s a hole behind where the turbo is that locates the bottom at the correct mark. The head has two holes on each side of the front which locate the correct position. When all three have pins to lock them in place, then you can align the injector pump and that should be enough to put the belt on. Hope that helps.

Yeah, I didn’t know about them until earlier this year. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

On Subaru’s I’ve always had better luck with MLS. I know it’s different, but we’ll see. Almost done.

@vM0de yeah it was the solution to cast iron block and an aluminium head. Are you running standard fuelling or tunned with morebboost? Vnt turbo?

@@mattluszczak8095 I'm using the original style turbo system. I have an exhaust manifold that can house a VNT, but while I was getting stuff ready time ran out and I set it aside to just stick with the tried and true. I have added a temp sensor and boost sensor.

My man!

Not sure about the color because I got the cans from the paint supplier as “mismatched.” Can says “327.” - not sure if that means anything

Thanks….just a little work and those little details pay off.

Thanks so much!

The holiest cow

Great idea. Can’t believe my brother was going to throw it away.

You’re right… what’s needed is a 32mm shallow socket. Since it’s in a confined area, I decided to weld a 17mm. Kinda the reason for the video:/

Just to clean the surface for welding. It’s long been evaporated before welding begins.

Just use non chlorinated brake cleaner

@@zacharycassidy298 Thanks, I"ll keep that in mind.... doesn't it evaporate quickly? I just use it to clean the surface, wait a bit and then weld.

Hi, very glad it helped in some way. I’ve got some many side projects that I don’t think I could guarantee any time to help. - dropping in the entire drivetrain on my Land Rover Defender Classic.

@@RealSideQuest How bout just quick advice on how I should proceed? Ive got 175K miles and it's due for timing belt. All the "experts" on the Facebook group say I should do a "level 3" service (belts, rockers, etc...". Cost for this by a traveling Liberty CRD guru is around $6K. Car is running sweet right now and I know I need timing belt but am having problem justifying spending that much on a car that couldn't sell for $6K after all the work done. Thanks!

@@surfingmussel That's a tough one. A timing belt with the water pump and pulleys isn't too big of a job. Hardest part it just aligning everything up. It's much easier to do when the old belt is intact because you can use a marker to copy the tooth count to gear locations. Honestly... doing just the belt service might be the best option in regards to cost. The whole level 3 is great, but it's a lot of work. Best of luck:)

Yes. Had to put a dust cover over the yoke and they were only selling the entire yoke. Improvised, haha

@@RealSideQuest that’s smart. I spend to much time in hardware stores thinking of what i could do with all those fasteners. It’s just super clean and is actually very practical.

@@user-mf3in4pv7h Thanks... sometimes you have to just simplify your issue and think "what does this thing really do?" From there you can more easily come up with a solution based on the problem.

This guy!

Thanks:)

TD5’s have barely become eligible for import to the US. Can’t wait to get my hands on one.

Thanks… it’s an older video and I wish it was more instructional.

Thumbnail looks sweet!

Took me straight back to being in grade school seeing it on tv.

I was trying to make it brutal to listen to, thanks. Kinda wish I could’ve made it rougher, maybe next time. Thanks.

I’m happy you found the video. The repair I made has been working perfectly so far.

Just to add ....the alu cylinder head is the worst part of the engine.....original LR castings not the best so use the AMC head for longevity

Completely agree! Even when it’s running rough, it’s still running. Love it.

​@@RealSideQuest...and the (genuine LR) new rear crankshaft seals are also problematic ....maybe you know all about the 2.8tgv engines? ...so use an upgraded variety to avoid headaches :)

Definitely agree. Definitely weren’t available in the US. I’d love to import a Bandeirante (a 4 door pickup like a Defender 130). Those diesels are bulletproof. I made a quick mention of them at the end of the video, but you’re absolutely right.

Great trucks. I’m about ready to drop the rebuilt engine in this week.

I’m familiar with that place:)

Thanks so much!

Thanks so much. Hoping to get it installed in the truck within the next week.

That’s amazing. I want to drive this 130 from the US to Tierra del Fuego and the up to Northern Brazil. - I’m gaucho also - Porto Alegre:) abrazos!

Love them!

I’ve always had little problems with the synchros. I was mostly making an argument for a purely mechanical diesel+4WD+manual gearbox. All else is a bonus: coil springs, rotors not drums, ebrake on tcase etc.

@@RealSideQuest the previous 5 speed gearbox LT77 was well known for synchro 1-2 being rubbish. They released an update version LT77S with a slight better synchro. Lasted 2 rather than 1 month 😃 R380 still doesn't like a rushed 1-2 or 2-1 once it gets a little cold. I teach 4x4 driving using a 300tdi Disco and they are such a good tool out of the box for basic off road. 100" wheelbase size of a D110. The issue with a Defender is people expect it to go everywhere off-road. But if the ground says 'no' then they think less of the car. A Disco was seen as a school run car, so the expectation is lower and they are amazed at how far it will go🙂

Haha, it’s so true, I must confess. Toyotas are just so well made…I’ll take a Toyota with 2x the miles over most any American car. The US never got any diesel Land Rover. I’d love to import a Toyota Bandeirante from Brazil.

@@RealSideQuest shame you didn't get official 300tdi Discos. Though your idea of a live forever bug out car doesn't work well for the rust issue everywhere on an old Disco 🙂

In most cases the corrosion does not affect the structural integrity. These old trucks were never very good at mitigating rust. I've seen so many panels eaten away from that. The galvanic rust from where the aluminum meets steel is also most everywhere. Though in an emergency situation, rust will be the least of my worries.

@@RealSideQuest my 90 has a galv chassis now as after 30+ years of abuse it rusted beyond sensible repair. Mine was built in 1985 and still has the original doors, body, roof and hood. Wings were replaced after too many tree/Land Rover interfaces 😁 Door frames are pretty rotten but the earliest Ninety/One Ten (as they were badged) had good isolation between the alloy skin and steel frame. So I have no white corrosion. Later ones not so good!

Thanks so much. At the beginning of the video you’ll see me talk about a Snap-On torch. Says made in Ireland. Love it.

Color actually came from a mismatch set of cans I picked up cheaply at our local auto paint supplier. I’ll check the paint code on the can tomorrow and let you know.

Rattle can says “Match 327”

The 130 took a bit for me to find, but it was worth the wait. The 110 HCPU in some ways is more practical because the 110 platform is so much more common.

Thanks very much. Gonna make a follow up video soon with some more explanation on why I came to that conclusion with some bullet points.

Glad you liked it:)

Thanks very much. Hopefully I'll be pulling the old engine out and putting this one in within the next few weeks:)

More to come!

Valeu amigão:)