Thanks!

My only other choice was at the time the GMPP UCA. The whole reason I went to Camburg to encourage them to develop this part was because I didn't want anything else that was available in the market at the time. I wanted an adjustable upper to compensate for the caster needs and still have adjustment to minimize bump steer with extended geometry (when you remove the droop stop.) I also wanted to to have the larger uniball (1.25") that no one else offered for the Colorado / Canyon UCA market. Ultimately, I wanted to replace the Uniball with one of their Camburg 1.25" X Joints (High Articulation Sealed Ball Joint) in the same arm and was hoping if they saw enough interest the Kinetik Billet Version. If I didn't push for the Camburg part I would have been looking for the features I mentioned above: 1. Billet construction 2. Adjustable pivots (heim) at the frame 3. Sealed high articulation ball joint

I am not sure that you do. Most of the HD hinges are fine so long as the center plate area can allow for the connection point of the turn buckle that attaches to the swing. Send me some pictures or a link to the kind of HD set-up and ill see if I can overlay some data. I'm pretty good with CAD.

There are lots of way to get bigger tires to fit but each comes with a cost. Either more money or a sacrifice to geometry or function.

It certainly is a chore and I am a little spoiled having come from the full size world where two pull pins after opening the hood was all that was needed.

Peak Suspension makes 2 kinds for this truck.

It just depends on how much you are able to drain. How flat the ground is when you drain and the temperature will determine how much actually comes out. This amount is what I typically have left but that's based on what puts the oil level to 3/4 the hashed area on the dipstick on level ground after about 30 mins. You should be bathing what's left on your measurement at the dipstick.

I have tried a few brands and seen some better than stock results but nothing quite does it right with a great cut-lines and no weird shadows or light bleeding. With all that said, more white light and greater output alone are probably good enough for most.

@@exhaustinglife In my case, these are purely for on-road performance. For the signal, marker, reverse, and stop lights, it wasn't even close. LED wins hard on those. For the headlamps, I can see room for debate. I have Baja Designs ditch lights, chase lights, and a light bar for trail work.

@@JoeMoutard you are exactly right, I was staying on the topic of the headlights. I had run the Baja Designs Squadrons, XL and S8 forward facing lights to make up what the OEM lenses could not do.

@@exhaustinglife To be fair, I'm actually using your build as a primary education source for my own. The Mallett kit that's been sitting in my garage for way too long goes in this weekend.

I am not the owner just a friend of the brand. Sam the owner would be the guy to ask to see what he can put together for earlier applications.

It's perfectly fine to drive a stock vehicle with stock power levels, and the vast majority of owners will. The truck is very capable and it's why I reserved this modification for last. Getting street legal power is expensive and not for the faint of heart. To put things into perspective ALL engine tuning is illegal that is currently available to this platform and most produce under 15 hp at the wheels. Exhausts and intakes will contribute the same power but can do so legally at 2 to 3 times the cost of a tune or calibration. V8 motor swaps are out of the question if a bolt on supercharger is not in budget as they can easily crest $10k plus just for the parts. Mechanically speaking, the challenges are high for true integration (with the 4wd system transmussion and other body controls) are costly and above most consumers' ability levels. Keep in mind that nothing ihome built in the motor swap world is 50 state road legal without an emissions referee's guidance. For what you get with the supercharger package, it turns out to be a pretty good value if you look at the alternatives available.... or you could just move to a 2024. 6.2L Silverado ZR2 Bison (470 Hp) for $80k. 2024 2.7L Colorado ZR2 Bison (430 Hp) is about $60k (my 2021 Colorado ZR2 Bison (450 Hp) was $51k plus supercharger)

I did but it's not necessary. They are only there for OEM equipment that was removed.

@@exhaustinglife thank you for the reply, I thought I was missing some parts.

I don't think it should be a problem as long as the leaf spring is still under the frame rail. The sway bar is about 2" away from the OEM spring's droop travel on the above the axle design in the video (OEM.)

Well as a general statement with lots of exceptions, generally speaking a Big Rig's powertrain is built for its heavy duty cycle regardless of stop and go and highway. Comparing all aspects of the mechanical parts to a conventional consumer car or even a light commercial truck is just not apples to apples. Some of the model Heavy Duty Semi truck engines are well over 1000 lbs yet still share similar displacements to light and medium duty trucks. Also, your points on maintenance are valid as well and even reinforced by federal and state regulations. DOT has strict requirements and timelines that if not met can restrict a trucks use so maintenance is just a priority, contributing to keeping them running longer.

@@exhaustinglife thank you for this reply.

I'm glad you enjoyed. hank for tuning in!

The AEV bumper light provision is tight. it was designed for the Baja Designs squadron but will fit others close to it in size. I have also personally fit the Rigid D-series pod in that area but if another light housing is larger than either of those you might have some fitment issues. I am not familiar with Oracle products enough to say either way. As far as installation goes, be prepared to remove the center bumper panel if you don't have a lot of manual dexterity and you hand doesn't fit easy. Its much tighter back there if you have the factory hitch installed as well. I was able to fit the BD squadron but patience in tightening the mounting bracket is necessary. Good luck!

I feel most 3.6L owners would agree. Get boosted @mallettcars

I would leave the tuning to Mallet and consult with their team. I know many have been happy with trifecta tunes on N/A applications, but I can't say I have the same opinion having a good understanding of their marketing claims and seeing first handwhat they actually change in their calibrations. While I have not experienced a negative effect on a personal application I have in my time reviewed many of their changes on this and other platforms. I am currently and have been an HPtuners beta tuner. As critical as tuning is to the supercharged platform, I would certainly leave at least the first consult with the Mallet team.

After realizing the intent for the shields were to protect the factory bushings, there really was no need to keep them as the entire arm was relocated out of the impacted area of the exhaust / catalytic converter heat and in direct airflow outside of the frame rail.

Each type has a place and in my mind specific use cases and vehicles determine which is best. It's hard to beat an e-locker's utility but whether electronic or air actuated, they do require an additional part which has to be functional to work while the others are sort of always on.

You can find it on the Rig'D Supply site: www.rigdsupply.com/pages/aev-colorado-bison-fill-plate

2021 ZR2 Bison

If you spent less than 500 on your dining room table, then it is probably a POS….just saying

@@DesignXWorkshop must be nice to have all that money and then be able call what other people can afford pieces of shit....I'd rather own a piece of shit than be one...

Quality products with certain features to cater to a discerning audience can be cost prohibitive to many but many of the lower priced products require cutting plastics, drilling panels, and don't have the fit and finish while being 100% reversible. It's all about what you need and are willing to afford.

@@exhaustinglife I agree and do love it, somethings are worth saving for.

Yes. Let me try to explain. As you know, the front suspension upper and lower control arms are of a different length. In their nominal position (ride height), they sit fairly parallel to the ground. As the suspension is articulated into full droop (or full compression for that matter), the caster starts to change faster as the axle moves further away from nominal (ride height) and closer to each extreme. These increases due to the shorter upper arm does not allow for caster to remain the same. This change in caster increases the driveline angle more quickly relative to the more extreme the control arm angle gets. With the geometry relocation brackets the angle of the control arms sitting near stock (ride height) position AFTER the lift is installed which preserves the caster longer through the droop (or compression) of the axle as the unequal length impact is less now not already having started with the more extreme angles created by lifting the Jeep (pushing the axle away from the chassis) If the upper and lower control arms were of exact equal length, then your initial thoughts on the position of the axle being lower would mean the angle of the driveline would be the same. For this reason, you do not need to make a driveline modification to accommodate a lift upto 3.5" where some stock geometry kits with even adjustable arms do. I hope that makes sense... it super easy to see if I could post a 3D model image showing control arm arcs.

Ok thank you for taking the time to explain that! Your install video was excellent btw with some good tips. Appreciate it!@@exhaustinglife

The adjustment of the tire carrier is more about the width of the wheel and tire combo. Ill go into the exactly why the wheel and tire matters in a second. The overall diameter is limited at 40" inches from a load capacity and physical interference issue due to diameter. On the swing arm of the carrier you will see there are 2 bolts to adjust. 1 bolt is to lock in the swing arm square tube "receiver" to the wheel face mount square tube that slides inside so it doesn't rattle and stabilize the load. The primary bolt is the long one that passes through the middle and determines the distance from the inner face of the spare tire to the inside face of the wheel. This is why the specific wheel and tire combo is important. The limiting width of the mount is dependent on both the width of the tire AND the offset. As you can imagine the more positive the offset (flatter/no dish wheel face) the less wide a tire can be mounted. The more past a 0 offset or more negative offset (big lip/deep dish wheel face) the closer the wheel mount will be to the swing arm structure. I don't think the instructions created a tire size based limit as it would be impossible with tire companies varying actual tire widths to numbers. I hope that helps and thank for tuning in.

Thank you for your reply. I was able to loosen the 2 bolts to bring out the studs more, and I’m happy to report I fit a 38x13.5x17 Nitto Trail Grappler on the carrier, and it sits flush with the fuel caddy and the metal tube.

From a flow standpoint 3 inches tubing in 3 inch muffler is going to be. What gives you the best performance. If you wanna have a solid performance note, but not have cruising drone, I would recommend using the MF xMOD universal muffler or get the Overland series exhaust. If all you want is straight performance and don't mind if it's loud, then a standard 5x8x18 3" muffler will suffice..

@@exhaustinglife Thanks rich I appreciate the advice I’ll have to look into each one and see which one will work best for me because I want something that gives the truck some aggressive noise and gives it some performance increase

I had provided Helwig with the data for the additional spacer needs but they did not let me know if they made changes. My contact there no longer works for them. The Camburg UCA was exactly what I wanted in adjustability and the only concern i have recommending it to people is making sure they are maintenance minded. ALL Heim joint and uni ball based parts need regular inspection and maintenance. I can't wait until the new x-joint is released for other applications at Camburg as it will truly have all the articulation and true maintenance free operation.

I thank you for watching. It was a fun build and great truck on the trails.

Nothing yet. It weathering well and I keep seeming to be able to add to it with other gear without issue. The super versatile design allows for all the configurations I want without having to buy mounting hardware twice. I can move the awning, switch to the shower or do a number of things to add and remove gear that is destination specific and its a breeze. I am out at KOH in the rain and have been in all kinds of weather and I am happy with its performance. I do sleep on a DeepSleep self inflating mattress but other than that addition I'm very happy with my Platform RTT expereince.