Top man.

Very awesome ❤

There needs to be a small gap of about 3-4mm or you will burn out the clutch within 1000 miles. I do it by leaving a bigger gap and then gradually reducing it while watching the pulley on the clutch and tightening it until it start moving little bit. You have to stop tightening before it moves, so go back little bit then, it also makes clicky sound when the clutch disengages, that's your right gap.

Greetings everyone, I have a question, my 2007 shadow aero makes a humming noise in the clutch area, when you press the clutch handle the noise goes away, is that the problem or is that normal?

3000 grit and a microfiber cloth would make the results much better. That shirt is just adding scratches to your polished surface

Does itsoundbetter louder or justlike the stock one

Can you spilt it with the head still attached?

If I can’t seem to get the slack out , what would that mean ? I changed my clutch plates and springs

Thanks! Now I’m confused on the word lever. It’s lever or Leave er…. Tomato tomOto 🤷‍♀️

You know why Im watching this right? Yea. I got the world's 2nd most stuck carburetor float pin.... Thanks for sharing.

Having a problem with my m109r now

Just make sure your oil filter is on good new riders oil on your back tire is not going to end good..be safe and enjoy your ride.....

Necesito la máquina completa de esa moto

Thanks so informative. Great video

New subscriber here! Awesome video! I have a 2024 Z900 will this fit on my bike and if so what are my options for slip on exhaust that will fit on this mid link pipe? Thank you!

Fantastic tutorial man. Thanks a bunch. Jim. Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍

What side perma-coil needed for that bolt? Im having the same issue

I'm thinking this (too slack a cable) is the cause of my tricky shifting/impossible to find neutral on my '78 yamaha xs. If the clutch cable is too slack, this will be the reason the engine cuts out occasionally when I slow to a stop and the clutch is fully pulled in.

Hey, I have a 2008 Zx6r and it will not crank. And I have no idea how to fix it. I was riding one day and the bike just cut off. Had to get it towed. But I would like to fix it.

Hey mate, Changing my transmission because the gears jumped out (on track) The forks are damaged and the dogs to, bought a new transmission but I can’t shift the gears while my engine is open (just by hand) Is that normal ?

Thank you for this video , I was having trouble shifting and my clutch needed adjusting really bad and this video just helped me out

To remove stuck pins: Lay carbs on their side with the head of the float pin facing down. Place a 1/8” socket under the post and your flat surface (concrete floor, etc). The 1/8” socket will support the post but still allow the pin head to clear. Now drive the pin out with whatever (I use a float pin that’s had it diameter sanded down a bit). Works every time and I’ve never broken a post

Hello please I need to know where to buy it...I have the z900 2023,

You don’t need to remove the whole thing, just removed the cover and start cutting after the welded spot per instructions, the blade can go through w/ o hitting the oil pan like the z900rs

Thanks for your dedication to share your knowledge of these oldtimers

Thanks sir I replaced my handle bars and all was ok until I took it for a spin and then felt as if the clutch was lagging now I see how to adjust it thanks man

At about 8.15 you clear your sinus boogers.. fucking disgusting... i stopped watching and unsubcribe because fuck hearing your swallow snot. you should do a swallow your snot tutorial.

Straight to the point and no fancy talks , no gas bagging , no annoying background music, only useful information and great teaching... Many Thanks Love your work. *A*A*A*A*A*

Now you just need to procure a 2.5" hole saw. That outta do it.

Thankyou for this man.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think every three decibels is twice as loud? Even though it seems small number differences they add up quickly.

One of the best explanation on every details!

Hi im blowing 30amp fuses , bike starts on electric start but once running generally blows the main 30amp fuse .. lights flicker/ pulse before fuse blowing .! Battery tested as good by bike shop .. any ideas please . Thank you . 👊✌️

Simple, quick and on the point - get a #12 wrench , take the slack out the line, set the lever to a tiny bit of freeplay, test, done. I was thinking about taking it apart and doing a clutch plate service, but it was just the clutch adjustment developing slack. Now the shifts feel crisp again and finding neutral is no problemo. Always great to go back to your short video and get it sorted without spending another $$$.

There are only 4 elements to charging (and potential issues with it) and these are 1. the battery, 2. the stator, 3. the rectifier/regulator and 4. the plugs & cabling, including fuses. Prior to anything else, I'd see if the connection of wires to the battery is OK, as those may get lose over time. It's indeed the VERY first thing to ALWAYS look at, as it's an easy and quick check a/o fix. BTW for lose connections I recommend using copper paste - it is conductive and secures the bolts & nuts in their place firmly. Then, I would check for any current leaks on the battery, and if so, I'd skip to checking all the wires and connectors and fuses immediately. Otherwise, I'd measure the battery voltage and then I'd see if it is being charged with the engine turned on (idle vs ~4 or ~5k RPM). BTW I'm using a cheap car-charger plug-in device (I have the plug installed on my bike), which - apart from providing me with a USB port for charging my phone or camera - shows me the current battery voltage level and to not drain the battery unnecessarily, I just need to pull it out after a ride. Afterwards, I'd check the connectors between the battery & stator & RR & the rest of the bike - some could be melted (typically I'd see a short there) or have a faulty connection (intermittent or permanent break). If so, 1:1 replacement should be the way to go. Then I'd test stator - an indication of a faulty one would be, if there is continuity between each of the connectors and the frame OR continuity between any two stator output connectors (1-2, 1-3, 2-3). If these checked out fine, I'd test its AC voltage output - it should be within limits put in the bike's service manual. Then I'd test the OEM(-ish) RR, if the diodes are OK - meaning, if they let the current flow in one direction only (*). If so, I'd test its output (with everything connected & the engine running), where the DC voltage should again be within limits given by the bike's manual (again, idle vs high RPMs test) - typically, service manuals recommend measuring this directly on the battery and the numbers given in the manual most of the time refer to that particular type of measurement. If the battery still does not charge up (sufficiently), I'd go through fuses and cabling (continuity tests) and connectors - here, unplugging one by one and observing the result ALWAYS leads to positively identifying the faulty part. (*) the diode test is of course not available for MOSFET RRs, however, these generally fail very rarely; for comparison, the OEM(-ish) ones tend to have an overheating issue, as the thyristors in those get rid of any abundant current by converting it to heat (MOSFETs typically send it back to the stator)

Thank you!!! 14mm on extension to hold the inside.

Nice job! I just would like to warn everyone that this link pipe won't fit to newer models for sure! The muffler's/slip on's end is different! In case of newer models (2022-2023) the pipe of the slip on goes into the bread box, however, in case of older bikes it's vica versa: the end pipe of the bread box goes into the slip on's end. Be careful at purchasing!

Fix the problem change the magneto that is why the bike keeps coming back

I'm gonna try this on my drum hardware. Thanks

Worked like a charm, thanks alot.

worked for me, thanks for a great video!

Fkn awesome i was debating on working in that part but kinda didnt want to. until i found this video. Cheers!

Need to dyno / tuning right?

Cómo puedo saber si está inyectando combustible ya que los míos no lo asen ya los lave y todo párese bien

Thanks buddy, now I can see my adjustment is out. Excellent tip my friend 👍💪.

i had my bike in to get the 2nd gear slipping fixed. long story short, i got the bike back 2.5 years later and now it's down on power, seems like only one cylinder is firing. I replaced all spark plugs and got fuel injectors cleaned, replaced fuel filter (it was completely missing when i got the bike back). anyway, it starts and runs, it idles weird (every 2-3 seconds it does a weird hiccup type thing) but it will go with throttle and not stumble. it's just really down on power. could they have messed up the timing? ps - im in northern utah.

Hi I find out your video I trying everting on my Honda shadow 96 vlx600 it was working fine but I make a mistake trying playing to be a mechanic adjusting my clutch I don’t know what I did wrong now my motorcycle kills when I go first wear on clutching on can you help me please

Thank you for the tutorial...very helpful!

Damn needed help with the throttle body and he skips it all

My clutch cable adjuster is not together like that it’s separate