@@CEBZZZZ thanks mate, appreciate the comment and support! More to come soon!

@@Racelab_video hey man do u have an insta would love to get in touch about some things planning to turbo mine soon

@@parallax5182 necessary if you wish the engine to be tuneable, there are some turbo kits you can buy that say you can run stock ecu but that is a very limited setup and there’s no going up in boost or turbo size if you want to change later. I personally prefer a tuneable ecu

@@brunzu6079 thank you so much, appreciate the comment!

@@MCERLANELADD yes indeed, might be a little hard to hear me in the video but I say I need to order a drift button after it gets stuck on, definitely on the to do list just ran out of time before the event 🙂

@@progunniedutchhd5310 Hey mate thanks for the comment 🙂 not necessarily anything wrong the engine is healthy and was bone stock. There are an immense amount of variables between brands of dynos and the figure they put out. Mainline have been known to read lower compared to other brands, the output figure can also alter depending on the type of dyno (Load bearing vs Inertia) and the dyno/weather station settings (some dyno’s also display a calculated engine power/torque rather than displaying an at the wheels or hubs figure ignoring the power loss you see through the drivetrain). For reference I tuned a friends SR20 that was tuned previously by another tuner on a different dyno and it made around 310hp at the wheels but with 0 changes to the tune on my first ramp run to get a baseline his car made 260hp at the hubs on the mainline dyno in this video, I was able to make an approximate gain of 20hp/tq on his car with some fine tuning so theoretically his car would make 330hp on the original dyno. Lots of variables between dynos and shops unfortunately not making it easy to compare.

@@StreetRunners_NL yeah i have done since this event I just ran out of time before the event and then was too hyped on driving to bother 😂😂 thank you though, appreciate the comment!

@@bookie7lovemyself702 thank you! Appreciate the comment 🤝

@@brunzu6079 Thanks for the comment! Check out the latest video I dabble with some suspension stuff and take the Lexus drifting. Wish you the best of luck with your build 🙂

@@zabeastt01 I just used a bolt through the top side and a nut on the underside, works great

⁠​⁠@@Racelab_videohow’d u get a nut on the underside do u have to access it from underneath?

@@Racelab_videoI see how did u get a nut on the bottom did u have to come from underneath?, and what did u do for the side bolt?

@@zabeastt01 I used a serrated flange nut from the underside (doing up by hand from the underside first) and when I tightened it from up top the serrated nut stayed still and I was able to tighten it, same goes for the side bolt, apologies if I wasn’t clear at first 🙂

@@cornelius.xe1 thank you very much and best of luck with drifting your is200!

@@c33jp I used to have jzx100 uppers but now run fully adjustable Cusco arms :)

@@leonalbertini883 depending on your location in the world there’s lots of retailers that would be able to order in a single mass flywheel for you…. I’m in Australia so somewhere like an autobarn/supercheap auto or repco (any auto parts store realistically should be able to order it in) Exedy part number for single mass flywheel conversion with heavy duty clutch kit LEK-7463SMFHD

@@leonalbertini883 exedy single mass flywheel

@@JDsGarage Yeah I’m running a 4.1 Welded diff, I have a serial 9 lock kit on the way however unfortunately it’s been a massive delay in receiving it, cheers for the tips though and best of luck with the standalone setup! Hope it goes well! Thanks for the nice comment mate much appreciated 🤝

@@Racelab_video what cc injector would you recommend for 250 bhp/200 ish wheel hp I have 255 cc atm it’s enough, with a FPR thanks 🤟

@@JDsGarage if running on unleaded fuel and not an alcohol fuel like ethanol something like a 440cc would likely be plenty but if running an alcohol fuel something like what I have 627cc would be better. What standalone ecu are you going with?

@@Racelab_video I made on the stock Ecu on the dyno 232 bhp 0.5 bar ran that way for 3 years on 1zz injectors (255cc) 11.5 afr on wot, there’s a video of the dyno run on my channel I’m going to order the diy efi plug and play standalone from uk

I was on a t3 t04e old school massive laggy turbo pretty much a supercharger how linear powerband kinda how the stock Ecu could handle it with just a FCD and fuel pressure regulator and a return line setup now my gt2860r is spooling at 3000 so I think I’ll need the Ecu to get the timing correct

@@angusfairlie9343 Thanks mate, there’s a few affordable is200’s out there but unfortunately probably a more difficult platform to start on just because of the very low power output, AU’s make plenty of power out the box and are definitely cheap to repair best of luck with your car!

@@TaylahAndrews Thanks, the HPA team are awesome people so I’m stoked as well! Although overhyped recently Blitz 03 are one of the best looking 3p in my opinion

Thank you for viewing 🙂 Simply running a haltech will not “blow up the engine” the only thing that would cause that would be if the tuner did a poor job at tuning the engine. There’s nothing wrong with running a stock ecu on a low boost setup using the “rank one” turbo kit however there is no ability to make adjustments to the tune or power output on a stock ecu so it is a very limited setup, with a properly tuned engine a standalone ecu is a much better option in my opinion. Best of luck with your build 🙂 thanks for the comment

@@nate-tz8sx Thank you very much, not sure what aspect you want me to compare but considering a fuel cut defender simply tricks a stock ecu vs a standalone style unit having full control of the engine operation like in my car tuneability is next to none on the defender setup. I can’t really speak against reliability on the defender style way, it seems to be popular but “is it reliable” is hard to answer as there are so many variables like turbo size/what fuel the car is running, intercooler setup, boost level how healthy the engine is or isn’t etc. For me personally running a standalone style setup in either piggyback formation or wiring the car to be run completely on a standalone ecu is the way to go. The more control I have of engine operation the better in my opinion (so far my car and tune has proven to be incredibly reliable) Thanks for commenting! 🙂

Cheers for the reply dude

@@Vasxnt Thanks for the kind words and good luck with the mods!

Thank you very much! I live in Australia but travel to Japan during “matsuri” times to drive with friends. I store the car with a company called “power vehicles” who have a facility at the circuit, they charge a monthly fee to store the car. I will have a full video on costs to travel / maintain a car in Japan when I do my next trip.

@@Racelab_video ah i see, thank you!

Apologies for not mentioning the throttle body in detail in the video, but previously to installing the turbo and haltech I installed a modified throttle body to delete the electronic control and get a direct relationship between the foot pedal and the butterfly valve

@@Racelab_video Ah, thought so! Alot of ppl never touch it, and it is a big difference! Some ppl use zenki gx100 1gfe tb's and some modify them, which is quite easy to do, if u do it smart u can reverse it to get rid of the check engine light too (for inspection) but yeah FFUKKK Toyota for leaving us with that BS even on the SPORT version of the IS200... >_<

@@kingnorlen it does make quite the difference to throttle response for sure! To Toyotas credit it was one of their first production attempts at a drive by wire style TB, and to its credit it worked flawlessly for providing a perfect idle no matter the conditions but the delay in response is atrocious. Luckily it’s deleted in my case

@@Racelab_video Yeah, but since Toyota actually had the guy who was responsible for the AE86 to make a "new affodrable sports sedan" that carried the same type of soul (altho the 1gfe clearly is NOT what he cared about, and was strictly a Toyota corporatedecision for the EU market) its kind of embarrasing tbh. I dont know if u guys also had the IS200 Sport? The ONLY difference from a regular GXE10 is that the LSD is standard, and its got a bit shorter final drive, and thats it xD Still slow as fuaaark lol

@@kingnorlen ahahaha yes unfortunately it is miserably slow from factory, Toyota did drop the ball a little there 😂

Thank you for the kind words/comment! 🙂 glad I could help

Thank you 🙂

Thanks for the nice comment, much appreciated and all the best with your build 🙂

Completely forgot to mention I already have done the throttle body mod before I turbocharged it deleted the electric control and welded the actuator together so the foot pedal has a direct correlation with the butterfly valve.

​@@Racelab_video very helpful video. will you make a video, how to mod the throttlebody?

@@KTchannelKT I have 2 spare throttle bodies so I may be able to do that yeah

Hahaha it’s pretty bad, very small cams and the head/intake manifold design isn’t really designed for amazing peak power/torque but a turbo definitely wakes it up 😅

I mean there fews in the uk that made 480hp from a stock 1g internals and it still run and drives sweet as hasn’t blown the engine up or anything still driving it after 5months

@@Racelab_video bro i own both a 1gfe and 3s altezza and let me tell you, in those older forums the 1g owners would swear up and down that the 1g has more tq than the 3s because its a 6 cylinder and i would laugh everytime

@@divin3kag3242unfortunately not everyone understands what power and torque actually is and in allot of cases just think more cylinders guarantees more power/torque but there’s allot that goes into the equation. The humble 1g was definitely built for hairdressers and business people with 0 desire to go fast 😂

@@divin3kag3242same peak torque just less hp

Maxx ecu is fantastic and I am hoping to run their “race” ecu on my roll racing/drag racing civic build coming up I ended up going with a 6puck clutch from extreme as unfortunately the heavy duty I installed in this video didn’t hold up to the task after some drifting do you still have the oem functions of the dash/ac controls etc??

@@Racelab_video yeah i have the maxx race in my is200, and same, have a xtreme 6puk w/smf to go in when i find time and energy to do so haha, and yep all my dash and a/c still work, i have a little mpx box or something like that that allows the dash and all that too work without having the stock ecu. I have followed you on instagram :)

@@darnellpoutai-teawa7276 oh that’s a very cool thing I may DM you on instagram to see what the dash module setup is like, would be very cool to get it running full standalone, would be able to clean up the engine bay heaps with no stock loom/ecu

@@Racelab_video yeah thats algood bro, and yeah relocated to passenger footwell/glovebox, next step after the clutch is to put my ffp ali intake manifold on👀

Unfortunately don’t know if it has a specific name I believe it’s just the oem sport wing

Unfortunately I’m not too familiar with the w58 but I do have a friend who doesn’t like the shift feel of the w58 vs j160 and so far the j160 is proving to be plenty strong enough for a turbo 1g and shifts fine, I do run a pretty aggressive 6 puck clutch as well and am yet to have issues (have upgraded clutches since this video)

I will be turning up the power a little in a future video! 🙂

Never compression tested it, but it’s not a rattly or Smokey engine and so far has treated me well being driven hard every time I drive it so can’t complain. I definitely played it safe with ignition timing as I’m not too familiar with how strong the rods and pistons are, but I do know some other people pushing more power than me on stock internals and seem to have no issues 🙂

Nice vid Racelab, very informative. I have a an is200 wanting to turbo it but my cylinders 4 & 5 have low compression. I've been told to solve this before installing a turbo. So was this something to consider before you did the build?

@@Racelab_video I'd say 9-10 psi is the limit for these engines if you wanna keep it safe and reliable, they're paper thin and you'll bend the rods easily. But they are pretty good if you reduce the CR and build a forged bottom end.

@@SERP92_ absolutely keeping the boost lower will be a way to keep it safe you’re right, but there are few factors go into it not just how much boost is produced, turbo size as well as ignition advance and cylinder temperature all play a big role in how reliable a setup can be 🙂 I plan on making another video on the dyno and going through a bunch of things as well as turning up the power 🙂 Yes have seen allot of people in European countries having allot of success with those decomp plates definitely a way to help reliability by reducing cylinder pressure, it may be something I check out sometime in the future 🤔 Thanks for your comment! 🙂

@Racelab_video No problem dude! I don't know a lot, but I do know a lot of people in Europe and Poland that have boosted these 1GFE engine's and had great results, If you ever have a question or something your wondering about shoot me a message, I can ask them!

Also I know where that shop is do you know anyone who can do it

I have not run into any issues so far, the reliability of turbo charging a 1gfe would come down to how much power you’re trying to get and how good the tune is…. So far the car has proved to be very reliable and it gets driven very hard

@@RICHYSUNCLE I used to work at the shop in this video, I believe it is unlikely that they would want to do it as the main focus is auto transmission swaps now. However you could always ask. Although pre warning going through any shop (not just this one) will likely be pretty expensive due to labour costs, something I did not have to worry about as I did the work myself 🙂

Haven’t opened it up at all only what you see in this video so just sending a stock long block. The 1gfe was definitely not made with airflow and performance as a priority and definitely aren’t the strongest but that’s why I kept the turbo small and boost low, it was fairly cheap to almost double my horsepower it serves well as a budget drift car. I took this car drifting and used next to no tyres and not very much fuel considering other cars I’ve drifted

Thank you 🙂

Turbo 1g is definitely a fun option and if you are able to do allot of the work yourself it’s likely allot cheaper than an engine swap

@@Racelab_video i have a chinese spooly boi (td04) in my garage rn, i also have an intercooler, boost gauge, and boost controller ready haha all i need is exhaust manifold and maybe put either a piggyback ecu or fuel cut defender

@@eresuplays most of the way there, hope it all goes well! 🙂

Thank you mate 🤝🙂

You’re welcome, any questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my absolute best to assist

Brisbane, Australia

Glad to hear it!

Thank you so much! filming more content on this car this week 🙂

Thanks so much, appreciate your comment 🙂

Appreciate the kind words, I’m just a mechanic by trade who learnt to tune don’t know if I’d say I’m a professional but thank you very much 🙂The power figure shown in the video is power to the hubs (201.3hp at the hubs on a t28 at 7psi and e85)

It’s a stock 1g flange from a standard set of headers with someone’s “custom fabrication” 🙂

More content on this car coming very soon 🙂

Only just started uploading somewhat regularly, lots more content to come! Thanks so much for the kind words much appreciated 😊😊

Thanks so much! More content on this one coming very soon!

Thank you! More on this car coming very soon🙂

Very well, done 1 event + lots of closed road pulls * all legal of course * and she’s still very happy even with almost 300,000km on the odometer, starts first time everytime