Very nice. Thanks for commenting. I hope you are as happy with the Cape Horn as I am. Good luck to you.

Hi. Thanks for the comment. The problem with UMA is the Pearson was not really meant to be an offshore boat. The punishment that occurs offshore even in moderate conditions can be quite substantial. They need a tougher boat given the kind of sailing they are doing. Maybe it will be up to it when they finish their rebuild. Anyway my bulkheads were all tabbed pretty well. The tabbing ran up to the deck. The top of the bulkhead was not tabbed. Instead there was a slot recessed into the one piece full length 1/4" solid fiberglass headliner so the bulkhead was locked into place. I cut the headliner out and so I tabbed the top of the bulkheads to the underside of the deck. Then I added more tabbing to the bulkheads on both sides. On top of that I through bolted the bulkheads with 5/16" SS bolts washers and Nylock nuts in case the tabbing ever failed. I also applied three layers of 1708 biaxial under the cockpit sole to glass it to the longitudinal bulkheads and also did the same for the bridge-deck tabbing to the athwartship bulkhead that separated the aft end of living space/galley from the engine/cockpit spaces. If you look closely around 14:15 you can see those through bolted fasteners. The boat is absolutely rock solid and tight offshore. Of course glassing the hull deck joint together also helps. Cape Dorys are strong well built boats even in their stock form. But they are getting old and often need some attention like any boat.

@@FarReachVoyages ...a master piece of a rebuild. I didn't catch the through bolts at first. I know that Sailing Uma had (will have again??) a huge issue where their awesome tabbing simply broke off the plywood bulkhead rather easily when tested with a mild hammer bump - they were shocked. Worse yet, when they "solved" the problem, the tabbing came off again but this time with a top thin top layer of the plywood. Seems like a real problem. I wonder if that foam core material would hold stronger? Any thoughts on foam core vs plywood?

Are you referring to Coosa board? I have never used it but it’s supposed to be very good. It’s expensive. I have not watched Uma in a long time. I have see some thumbnails and scanned some info. Epoxy should have no problem sticking to ply so I don’t know what they are doing. What I did was to us a power planer to cut down into the ply and remove the veneer. Once you are into the core there should be no issue. And even with the veneer if you abrade it with 40 grit the epoxy and biaxial will stick solidly. I though bolted as a back up precaution because “nothing too strong ever broke.”

Thanks.

Thank you very much!

Thanks. Much appreciated. Happy to hear you enjoyed the cruise.

Often times it is very clear. Sometimes not so much. I learned low power HF shortwave comms in the Marines. So I am familiar with how HF propagates. There is too much to explain in the comment section but we can correspond about it via email if your're interested. You can get my email from my website. The North Atlantic is very good for HF. There are a number of stations and the range is only a couple thousand miles so it generals works well. The usable frequency range changes throughout the day. Weather forecasters like Chris Parker and stations that transmit HF WX Fax and forecast stations like the USCG typically transmit on at least two freqs. A lower frequency about 3-4mhz in the morning and 8-12Mhz for the late afternoon. Lower freqs will generally propagate further but with more static. It works better late at night and early in the morning due to changes in the ionosphere. Higher freqs generally don't propagate as far (some exceptions) but tend to have less static. This is an over simplification. But, it's not difficult to get the basics which is all you need for HF/SSB reception. Antenna length for reception only SSB/HF is not critical. Longer is better.

Yes. I employ the runners when using the stays'l if there is any kind of wave oil action or a swell running. For the first five years I mostly relied on a sculling oar and the occasional use of a 9hp outboard engine when I had it aboard.

Hello SkipRay. Thanks for commenting. Yes, it's a sit down shower tub. You can learn a lot more about the boat by leaping ahead in the series to S4E1, S4E2, and S4E3.

There you go: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q512l7WA0dregKs.htmlsi=CFt8wvvq82DumyqJ&t=1267

Thanks. Me too. Seems they have gone out of fashion. Too bad as it is a great berth.

Thanks. There will be lots of details for sure.

Agree. Less is more. Thanks for the comment and engaging.

Thanks. Appreciate the comment.

Thanks for engaging. The A35 is a gorgeous boat. The topping lift should be loose. What is the time stamp of where you see it tight?

@@FarReachVoyages 27:15, The 2 nd reef was kinda tight too, But it’s no big deal, you handled that boat very well She sails well.

@edwardfinn4141 That's an optical illusion. Probably the GoPro lens. I have another video taken by a friend on a boat of me sailing past them as I picked up the mooring. I just checked it--The topping lift is quite loose. Before I haul up the main I tighten the topping lift to raise the boom off the gallows. Then loosen it after I set the halyard tension. I have to do the same thing in reverse when dropping the sail. I tighten the TL just enough to keep the boom from being able to make contact with the gallows until I am ready to drop it into the notch. But thanks for commenting. Happy sailing. Edit--I reread your comment. I didn't understand at first as there is only a single reef in the main. You're talking about the second reefing line putting too much tension on the leech. Agree.

@@FarReachVoyages sounds like you are on top of it. Sounds like I should have keep my big mouth shut , haha. All the best, love the series… Have you ever thought about an Atlantic circuit? You know you and that CD 36 are capable of Getting to the Carribean the long way round… Head NE from the USA Boston , Halifax, Newfoundland, the Azores, Canaries, then back to the Carribean in the trade winds I did it, the North Atlantic was the easiest part.

Yes. In fact that was my plan for this summer until I got tangled up in the mast project.

Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Much appreciated. Thanks for engaging.

Thanks. Much appreciated.

Thanks. Looking forward to getting her back in the water and under sail.

Thanks Mike. Appreciate the comment.

Amen to that!

Thanks. Appreciate the comment.

Glad you found it useful. Thanks for commenting.

I don't know what you mean by badass in the context of offshore sailing but I appreciate the sentiment.

Ty, it should work fine. You can go to Cape Horn website and get contact information for owners with all kinds of boats to check with owners of boats like yours to learn how it performs. It steers through your boat's rudder. Check S6E4 for how it works.

Couldn't be happier. The reality is there are not that many boats built as strong as Cape Dorys, sail as well, and can be customized. West Sails come to mind but they are not as fine sailing, though they sail better than their reputation. Bristol Channel Cutters. Valiants. Great boats. There are a few others. Depends on what you are looking for. Pacific Seacraft are fine boats but they are expensive and have full liners like so many others so you are limited in what you can do to customize it. It's a personal choice. But if you want to go offshore extensively then you need a boat that is strong. That rules out so many other production boats. Choose wisely.

@@FarReachVoyages Appreciate the answer and I'd say that's a strong endorsement. I think I'm going to try to move on it. I lost what I think was a great deal on a Southern Cross 35. Aside from cored hull it seemed to be in the same league. Was an estate sale. Love your videos despite the lack of bikini's and fake emergencies/drama.

Excellent. I'd be interested to hear how it works for you. Another important thing is to replace the shock cord often.

Kolton, thanks for the kind words.

Hi Jason. Thanks for the comment. I'm working on boat projects almost daily and will post some more videos soon. They are long projects so I tend to wait till I have good progress before I share.

Thanks.

Thanks.

Thanks very much.

Thanks very much.

How so in a crowded anchorage?

@@FarReachVoyages you don't need to do that full fig8. all you need is that final approach upwind to slow down. in your final leg, you have full clearance on starboard from that moored boat. you just need to approach more from port and in the final 3 boat lengths or so head up more, then you'll naturally slow down, I think

In theory yes. With a furling jib or a second person on deck you don't need as much time to set the boat up. If there is a hiccup you can quickly correct it. I needed time to drop the jib, clear the deck, rig the snubber, and position the boat, all the while keeping an eye out for local boat traffic and changing wind conditions. There is also a slight current carrying us down channel so I ended up further down wind than desired. There is active boat traffic running in and out of Crown Bay Marina to windward which I wanted to avoid. So the ability to perform an inspection pass and then spin the boat around dropping the jib, gybing, and preparing for a mooring pick up with a 16,000 lb full keel boat is unrealistic...unless everything was prepared ahead of time and you have done it a hundred times and everything works "perfectly." Flaking halyards out and ensuring all the lines will run free is essential to a drama free pick-up. One hockle in a halyard and the sail is not coming down when you need it too without rushing around on a suddenly over canvased boat. Tacking, instead of gybing, the boat and dropping a back winded jib allowed it to fall on the starboard side of the foredeck leaving the port side open for the pick up. It also gave me more time because the boat ends up steering parallel or away from the mooring field vice towards it, which would have given me less time. I also edited out the part where a skiff came along side during an approach to the mooring insisting they give me a tow! 😂. But I think it is still a good example of methodical careful boat handling without drama concluding with a successful mooring pickup under sail in a crowded harbor with a lot of active traffic. It's the kind of challenge I enjoy. And, I am always learning and improving my skills. That's what's great about sailing. You can't know it all....you are always improving.

Excellent. Glad the info is useful to you. You'll find the details of the rebuild at www.farreachvoyages.com.

Sure.

Thanks @stemtosternsailing. Much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video Jarle. Thanks for engaging. Happy sailing.

As you wish....

@Snowgorilla9789. Thanks. Concur there is real value in knowing how your systems are installed and how they work. Thanks for engaging.

Excellent. The Compass 28 looks like a nice boat. Great size too. I wish you success. Persistence and determination will get you across the finish line. Thanks for the comment and for engaging.

Thanks Gordon.

Glad you found the video useful. The glassed over hull deck joint and the addition of the bulwarks was one of the best mods we made to the boat. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks.

@sasfish1966 I received your email. I answered it but maybe it has not reached your box. This video is all I have on the finished project. No build video. Yves Gelinas at Cape Horn Marine Products, the builder of the Cape Horn windvane built it for me. I have since sold it, though it worked perfectly.

@@FarReachVoyages Thats cool thanks so much.

This particular mount was custom made for the Far Reach to fit on the port side. There is a folding pad which fits against the hull on the bottom inboard side of the engine mounting pad. With a right hand turning prop the engine is applying pressure to the hull--the pad is forced against the hull. In reverse the engine prop walk is pulling the boat astern but also to port so the pad is pulling away from the hull. So an outboard mounted on the side like this one works best on the port quarter--if it's a right hand turning prop which is characteristic of most small outboards.

So you could stern thrust full power to starboard but you would need to be moderate when vectoring to port as not to have the mount pivot athwartship.

Jason, yes but...LOL. It's temporary. When you reverse thrust hard to port you'll see the pad come off the hull, maybe an inch. It’s why you need a strong bracket. It will hold there with the pad just off the hull until you ease the throttle, then the pad makes contact with the hull again. Not the same though as motoring for an hour in some slop with the pad straining off the hull, if the engine bracket were mounted on the starboard side. Also, because the boat is trying to turn a little to starboard, since the engine is not on the centerline, you cant it a little bit to starboard (use the engine's friction locking lever) to counteract the turning. Being able to fine tune the steering means you can get the boat to motor in a perfectly straight line. Steer with the boat’s main rudder. But canted a little like that forces the pad against the hull. You want it on the port side. Not saying it won't work on the starboard side but it will work better when you account for all these factors. Take a look at S4E2. Near the beginning I think there is a short video clip of the outboard running. You'll see it's canted just a little to counter the steering. The pad is pushing against the hull taking some strain off the bracket.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting.

Thanks. Glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting.