Thanks for your comment - Just worth noting is that Glass Blocks are self-supporting & not load bearing. With that being said, if you want to send us a picture in of your Glass Block project to [email protected] - we will be able to take a look & advise you on the best course of action!

Hi Ravi, The above Rod & Mortar installation is the strongest around for larger walls. Thanks, GBD

Hi there, The jambs are the already there (in the video). If you have an open ended/topped wall, like a shower screen, then you can either install open-ended/topped, or install an 'end post' make out of metal or timber. Thanks, GBD

The installation method can be abutted against brick, block, timber, steel, aluminium etc. The same process is completed. We do have a 'DIY', internal installation method which can be found on our website & is called the 'Basic Block Lock Frame Kit', we have a video for this installation on our website also.

The product is call Vetromalta & can be found on our website in the description of this video.

The perimeter gap is filled with an expansion strip to allow for minimal expansion & contraction. Once build, the gap is then covered with a silicone seal, this can be seen at the end of the video 3:10.

The perimeter joints are not filled with mortar to allow a live joint for the expansion and contraction of both the glass blocks and mortar bed. The same live joint which is used in brickwork. The perimeter joint is filled and sealed with expansion foam (to allow the minimal contraction) and silicone (to seal and water tighten the wall, whilst also allowing flexibility) If perimeter joints are filled with mortar, leaving no room for movement, you'll end up with cracking mortar joints, or even worse the glass blocks!