Good tip! Thank you!

Haha, Sometimes it just be like that!

Update lol: just saw your previous videos. 😅

Glad you found the other videos! My truck didn't have the Bose system in it and where I mounted the amp is where the Bose amp sits i believe. I will say though I was blown away at how much better the system sounded when I upgraded the dash and the front doors even without the help of an amplifier. Might be something to consider.

@@dennysdrives1020 I THINK there is a Bose sub that sits in that space but I could be totally wrong. After looking online I MAY go the route of SKAR as I could get a whole setup for the cost of just the stealthbox 🥲. I used to run Alpine Type R’s in my car so may also look to see if they have a shallow mount for under the back seat as well.

I didn't have a kit. I pieced it together using the links below. You could just get a bit thicker wire when you purchase it.

I did use a harness on all 4 door speakers.

I did see that and you have to set up the amp for high or low level input. Using the LOC made integrating between the head unit and the amp pretty easy though without having to cut into any wiring harness. There maybe a way to not use a LOC but this way made sense to me.

Yes there are dash speakers too. I did a sperate video on those. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z7Jde7iSytqmpX0.html

@@dennysdrives1020 Yea, I found it immediately after my comment, ha. I've got the W/T trim, and Crutchfield is only calling for the door speaker so I'm not sure if I have dash speakers or not. I stick my head above the dash while music is playing, and I still can't tell somehow. I thought about just putting the tweeters up there, and woofers in the doors just to get the soundstage up higher. Or I could just pick up these Kenwoods I guess.

My truck did not come with a Bose system so there is no amp powering these speakers. It is just the factory head unit running them. In the video after this I do install an amp plus a sub and power all the speakers that way. Give it a watch if you like.

It allows you to run accessories with out draining the main battery. I have my light bars and sound system amp hooked up to my second battery and plan on adding my winch to it. I could run these accessories with the truck turned off and drain the 2nd battery if i wanted and the truck would still start up off the main battery. Also if my main battery dies I can use the second battery to start the truck by hitting a button on the battery isolator to provide power to the main one.

Speakers are great and you are probably fine without the mat. The rear doors sound best once you add an amp with them. Biggest improvement you can make to the sound in these truck IMO is the front doors first, then the dash, then the rears, then a sub an and an amp. I have videos showing how to do this on this channel if you want to check them out.

Yes in my truck it came with factory 6x9's in the front doors.

@@dennysdrives1020 great thank you. So I bought some JL audio c2 690tx like eight months ago and I went to install them last week and they didn’t fit because the magnet is to thick and it hit against the window rail 🤦🏽‍♂️. I was thinking of cutting out the small part of the rail that hits and install it that way but I’d rather not. I really liked the speakers I bought and regret that I have to select a different one. Can you tell me a which speaker I can purchase that will fit but give me the same performance as the JL audio C2. Thanks.

My truck is the SLT with a non Bose factory system.

@dennysdrives1020 Dennys thank you very much, mine is the SLE and I don't know if the speakers are 6x 9 at the front doors. Once again, thank very much!!

Hi, You are welcome. The door speakers that i replaced were a factory 6x9. Different Trim levels might have come with different sized speakers.

The plastic housing is really secure especially after the foam tape. That helped with any gaps from the door that could make it move around. I did make a change and used a bolt with a nylon nut to hold the speaker in place. The screws that come with the speaker had stopped biting the plastic in some cases.

That's a good thought might take a crack at it.

Glad it helped and hope it gets another Wagoneer back on the road.

@@dennysdrives1020 ..it helped tremendously..the hardest part was that dang clip Ring that I had to use clock spring tool on...lots of patience!

Not the same truck bro come on think

Thank you! Your truck is the generation after mine but i did a quick search and saw the factory speaker size is 2 3/4 like installed in the video. If you wanted to install the hertz speaker in your dash you would have to modify it to make it fit. It would not be a direct replacement. The Kenwood KFC-x2c speaker I installed is also a 4 ohm speaker. Let me know if you got any other questions.

To be honest not a clue. I replaced it with a 4 ohm speaker though.

Word! @@dennysdrives1020

So you've seen this person on a different KZfaq account?

That is a pretty sweet amp. Might have to use that for a future project!..... if i can find one haha

That is outdated technology. It cannot handle higher voltages of modern vehicles and the phone app to control it is now outdated.

Yeah the placement doesn't matter because all the amp knows is how much power it needs to send to the sub. Here is an idea. You start with the console sub and 1 amp see if you like that if you want more then you can add a second amp and sub for the rear seat. Since the console sub is in an enclosure and right beside you it sounds louder than the same sub as if it were tucked under the rear seat. If you know you want 2 subs off the bat. You need to find a similar rated sub as the console one, power and ohms, and then you need to figure out how you want to wire the 2 together (i.e. in series or parallel which will change the ohms rating). Once you know that you can pick an amp to power both. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!!

@@dennysdrives1020 see, i get lost on the parallell and ohms part lol!!

Having one sub up front and one in the rear is going to create a different sound profile. The one in the back will produce more low end bass and the one in the front is going to produce less low-end bass. The volume levels are also going to be different between the two. So I would not recommend running two different sub locations unless you were to divide up the frequencies so that the front sub played upper bass and the rear sub played lower bass.

it is a 2.75 inch speaker.

One set is for the front channel and the other is for the rear. This way i can still use the fader from front to back on the stock headhunt. The amp can accept one set of RCA's and power all the speakers but you loose the fade capability from the head unit.

Copyright laws :(

I did not run them to the individual speaker. The wire I ran from the amp goes to the line output converter wiring harness. The harness T's into the factory wiring. The signal goes from the head unit to the line output converter (via the harness) to the amp (via the RCA cords) then back up to the LOC harness via the speaker wire. It then gets sent to the speakers using the factory wires that are in place. To boil it down we are hi-jacking the signal from the head unit to the speakers (to make it louder with the amp) and we are using the LOC to help get the signal to the amp. I hope this doesn't confuse you. Let me know if you have other questions.

I cut it out of the circuit but it is still physically attached to the connector. The factory one is not being used and I used the ones that came with the speakers.

The isolator couples the battery when it sees 12.7V which usually happens with the car running and the alternator charging the system. With the main battery dead it wont have enough power to have the too batteries coupled together and the car wont start. You can then press the button on the isolator which will force the couple the batteries together and then start the car with the power from second battery.

@@dennysdrives1020 Okay. Wasn't aware of the override button. And how it worked. 👍

There are links for all the materials I used listed above but I used 4 AWG.

@@dennysdrives1020 ahh okay cool! Thank you so much. I am looking into adding a second battery to my 2014 Z71 Tahoe and I want to use the correct materials. I appreciate it! Thank you!

ISO some help with selecting the second battery. Internet has advised me to keep both batteries identical, problem is that my main battery is a 94R(H7) and the second tray will not compensate that size battery. Any work arounds from buying two smaller batteries that match (48 group)

I replaced them with Polk 6x9. I have a whole video on this. studio.kzfaq.infozViH5ITYBO4/edit Thanks