Quest... what gauge of wire and conduit do I use from the inlet box to the breaker panel? Thanks

As a service electrician I routinely find the DP breaker feeding the surge protection device is tripped. The devices need to be mounted so the customer can check the status LEDs regularly.

I wouldn't let this IDIOT wire my Christmas Tree !

Hey Dummy ! That's a Duplex Receptacle , NOT a PLUG !!~ Plugs are the Male 2 or 3 prong device on the end of electrical cords that one PLUGS INTO the Receptacle !!!

I would like to see how to install this on a generac standby transfer switch

Also connect a device when you run it so loaded.

No need to connect at 1am unless you need a health saving machine. Also don’t need to get set up 1 min after power goes out. I don’t run my portable at night, shut off 11pm, restart at 6am. Food still stays cool in fridge and house still cool

Can you show how to connect an outdoor light to an existing light switch? Thanks

I've seen so much conflicting info. I just want to run Romex in my garage. I don't want it in my walls because I might want to rearrange outlets later, who knows right? So I want it on outside of the interior walls, but I'd rather not have Romex just all spaghetti on the wall where it would look sloppy and could be damaged. What other option is there than using conduit? Is the whole Romex/Conduit debate because of code or just a bunch of what if scenarios?

This helps, just had my well hit by lightning, blew out my well pump control box, $2600. I'm getting a type 1 , two type 2s and a few type 3s.Yes I am in a high lightning area, top of mountain.

I try to run my portable generator at least once a month. Also I shut of the fuel and let it run out the gasoline in the carburetor. And check the oil and change as needed. Air filter too.

There are disc-shaped thermally protected MOVs on the market; the most commonly available one being the Littelfuse TMOV and iTMOV series. The Eaton is using something else, however, as all the TMOV units are red in color. If you can not see external thermal fuses, the MOV must have internal thermal protection to meet UL1449. If the MOV has three leads, one is likely a tap off of the load side of the thermal fuse for end of life indicating purposes. (This extra pin is what differentiates iTMOV from the standard TMOV) If you're trying to stop extremely fast transients, bus mounted TVSSes are king due to lower inductance, but they tend to wear out faster than these external devices due to the lower surge current ratings. For truly sensitive gear, nothing beats staged protection sarting at the service and supplemented at the device you need to protect. PS...Im using an Eaton CHPSURGE device. I'm curious as to what's inside. Im going to go out on a limb and say a pair of 25mm MOVs and little else. It weighs basically nothing. I can tell you that it is effective, however. We took a hit to the primary side of the pole in a storm last year, and although the fuse at the nearby substation blew with a hell of a bang, nothing in the house was damaged.

Stainless plate would be nice.

I have a 30 kva 3 phs water cooled Generac. My one smart module (006873-0) which just failed, so for now i bypassed it. It's on a 3 ton AC which is running on single phase so my question is it seems insignificant and i question if i really need it. I have 2 five ton ACs (which are 3 phase units), a 1.5 hp pool pump, 2 frigs, 2 freezers, a over range and stove top, e dryer. Heat is Gas for ACs and Water. Anyway do you think i need to replace it and if so what brand and model do you suggest.

White sharpie line on the chord plug and the inlet connector.....line up the fat white lines......easy to see.

From the meter, You entered the disconnect above the live lugs, where is you hub(Myers hub) ? section 312. 2. The sealing lock nut is only one side, the inside, (fail). Will leak. The offset ripple is NOT listed for outside RT. So a Myers hub is required to seal the cabinet from the outside. ( listed fittings required). The meter has the offset ripple below the exposed lugs.

Hello there, I have severe fluctuation issues at peak times here in South Miami. My 4T Trane compressor draws 45Amps. I have an ICM 102 Delay on Make Timer installed which does not trigger unless the power goes off completely - which Protector should I get ? Thank you so much !

Hello there, I have severe fluctuation issues at peak times here in South Miami. My 4T Trane compressor draws 45Amps. I have an ICM 102 Delay on Make Timer installed which does not trigger unless the power goes off completely - which Protector should I get ? Thank you so much !

“A tree, a strub,or a fence?”

Hello there, we have problems with Voltage fluctuations, where the voltage dips briefly and then comes back on right away. This causes my AC compressor many problems, so I installed a ICM Delay on Make Timer. The strange thing is that the timer does not cut out at those dips but only delays once the electricity goes off completely ( same counts for the built in delay in my Air handler thermostat. So here my question : Is this Ditek Surge Protector a solution or do I need to install something else ? Thank you so much !

Interesting! Would be great if you mentioned cause or reason why arching occurred. Thanks!

Good advice. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Just tell em it’s to keep it from freezing up in the winter

Bad ideaaaaaaaa. I am a 10 year natural gas pipepline installer. That is the fastest way to get rid of your house. If that ground/bond carries current at anytime it will try to find ground and has a tendency to arc, blow a hole in your gas line. There is more detail in the situation but the point is current/spark on a highly flammable gas is a huge danger to life and property. Any questions i will further explain.

If we get specific enough to mention the 53% rule, we should also note that NEC says for elliptical cables like Romex, their conduit fill is calculated as if they were round based on the largest cross section measurement. This is what pushes them over that 53% limit usually. Why use the incorrect & false clickbait title? You know that is not truthful. Explaining in the video that your title is a lie does not absolve one from that lie.

I went with a medium length generator cord because, there is voltage drop on longer cords.

The clowns that built my house flush mounted the main exterior box (power company access only) and the connected sub breaker panel box (that is unlocked) into one inch+ thickness stucco. The box in the garage is regular sheetrock like this install? Do I need an SPD for both boxes?

An engine turned finish would be badass as well.

We have white Romex in metal conduit on the outside of the house it's 220 volt hardwired to a air conditioner found that out at the bottom access junction going into the house - so what's the cure ? Remove the Romex outside and run the correct wire out of the house into the conduit to a weather proof box then the wire goes inside to a box and plug the a/c into it I'm sure an electrician did this some 35 years ago , the Kenmore a/c finally gave out so a new one will go in the legal way

Can I just use a basic transfer switch that I turn manually when I want to switch the power to the other? A little box with a dial.

If you strip the NM sheath off you may not be allowed to run the bare grounding conductor in conduit.

I'll take "Things that aren't true" for $400 Alex.

Outdoor patio fan and outdoor outlets not working Frustrated all day Did not want to call an electrician and pay - they charge minimum 150 for a diagnosis around here Was pretty upset all day Looked all around the house for the gfci resets Till I found your video .. the outdoor circuits have gfci in Garage Yesss sir reset it and voila ! Thank you so very much You saved me $150 and a berate from my wife for being a poor handyman …cold beer time now Thank you thank you

Ballpark estimate for a licensed electrician to install the FS-140 (parts/labor)? House built circa 2000 with the service panel located inside a drywall garage - Fort Worth, Texas. Thanks.

I've seen a couple of installations videos for SPDs, but when I see them wire to the breakers I don't understand how this works. I thought this would go between the Service and the Main circuit breaker (to stop the surge from hitting the rest of the breakers). It almost seems like it is supposed to Sponge the spike that would go to the other breakers.

Man, I am impressed. Coming from your other video, you got to an easier project in a reasonable amount of time. If I had done that job, that's what it would have looked like. As I said before, I'm a retired industrial mechanic, not union, with about 3 years of college and years of school of hard knocks. I like your kind.

I recently retired as an industrial mechanic, not union. I was fortunate to work with a great master electrician in Texas, because of his need for health insurance for himself, his wife and son. Life can be tough. I am impressed with both schooling and school of hard knocks your type has. Great job your doing here. I'm certainly going to check out your site. I like your kind!

Ok great, but what does code say? You didn’t answer your own question.

What causes burned bussing?

VERY disappointing video, since the title was basically clickbait, and you never actually expand on the title statement

Great idea to run your generator periodically. But you should apply a load to it, preferably at least 50% of capacity. Depending on your generator, if you have a 240V you made need to buy a splitter that adapts the 30 amp twist lock (shown in the video) to two standard 120 plugs. My favorite loads to use are space heaters.

James: Great video bro. Question: I have a GE 200 Amp panel. Will FS-140 be adequate? Also, my main cut off panel (Midwest) is outside just downstream of the service meter can and my actual 200 amp breaker box is a GE and located inside my house. Considering this set up, where is the best location for the FS-140; at the outside panel or the inside GE panel?

Looks nice what’s the purpose of intersystem ground bus?

all those appliances would stay off and would have to be turned on one by one.

Ahhh, a fellow electrician 😊

Code trumps opinion 👍

Thanks for the update

Replace the faulty defrost heater element in the fridge. That’s what’s tripping the GFCI.

I just purchased a FS140 and it has no Siemens marking on it. The device in every way looks like the Siemens and has a UL listing number 60335-1. Have you seen them?

Just replace all our Fed Pac breaker panels with Sieman's