The hammer-drive rivets are almost impossible to drill out. I have drilled new holes next to the existing broken stubs, essentially moving the patent plate over towards the timing chest by 1/16". Best of luck.

The common click type of torque wrench being shown is Length Dependent, and must have the force applied at the handgrip. You cannot use a cheater bar or choke up on the handle, or the torque delivered at the click point will be wrong. There are other non Length Dependent designs that are fine to use a cheater bar with, such as a cam-over slipping wrench.

I am in the same boat. Those videos were queued up for me to do this month... Any chance of them being made available?

@@stevedefeo Raber's had a decent disassembly video I found here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ja-EjK-C2ci0eXk.html&ab_channel=Raber%27s

I’m sure there is a scientific procedure to remotely measure the magnetism in a rotor, but it is not mentioned in the Lucas Service Manual or the BSA and Triumph Factory Workshop Manuals. In practice, if you can pick up the rotor by applying a long screwdriver to one of the magnets, and wave the screwdriver around, and the rotor sticks to the screwdriver, it has sufficient magnetism. If it falls off of the screwdriver with very little, or no movement, it is questionable and should be renewed. Another thing to inspect is the steel center insert. If you can place the rotor on the crankshaft, with the key fitted, you can check to see if the center boss is secure in the body of the rotor. If there is any looseness of the center boss, the rotor will require replacement. If you see stake marks around the center boss in the rotor body, somebody has already discovered looseness. Hope this helps.

When i got the rotor off it was moving on the steel insert no good wouldve affected ign timing and possibly spun so i pissed it off and fitted a new 1 i went with a wassell solid state rectifier and a 10 amp single phase stator .... now the rings are shot lol its all fun and games but hey we learn

Do it up!💪

_Probably_ not, there would be just a slight tension still on the spring to hold it in position. If it is backed way off so the spring flops around, some types of measuring mechanism could slip out of the correct location, and the measurement would then become very inaccurate.

Yes that would work

That is a very good question and I wish you were able to ask me that when this was live because it always makes for an interesting discussion! There are no significant pros or cons in 12V electrically (diode) rectified circuits since they use the negative AC wave to provide a more stable/constant output. Generators are another story. Positive ground (energized chassis) helps prevent voltage drops before the load in these systems because the commutator rectifies the current by cutting off the negative wave, this results in pulsing/uneven output. For a generator an energized chassis acts like a cushion for the pulsing, it acts like suspension on a bumpy road for the electricity coming from the generator.