It MUST be said that this requirement of removing the camshafts in order to just replace the camshaft seals is ONLY for 2005+ motors due to the VVT-i. (Read/seen it many years ago prior to first timing belt change @ 200k+ miles overdue). This year I noticed some oil (not shiny nor runny) on the alternator and hydraulic tensioner. It looks like it’s coming directly down from the pulley right above them or it is indeed the passenger camshaft seal(?). My Tundra has never leaked oil; always at the same level I filled it and it has 425k miles so.. it really is an uncommon problem. But for 2004 and below non-VVT-i 2UZ-FEs, it’s a good idea to just replace the camshaft/crankshaft seals when doing the timing belt service since you’re already around there, the part is relatively cheap, and the labor is considerably quicker. I have read and I agree that the best year for this motor is 2004. You got the few problems fixed from the early years (exhaust manifold leaks) and you’re just before VVT-i in which oil change intervals are more important, camshaft seals being labor intensive, you have less chance of surviving a timing belt failure, SAI pump codes, they switched to a plastic intake manifold instead of aluminium, switched from an A/T with a dipstick to a sealed one, and a 5-speed instead of a 4-speed that just knows which gear to be in and stays there. Regardless, still the best motor Toyota has ever made 100%.

I discovered the same problem with my '94 Toyota Pickup today. The Haynes manual says I will need a hydraulic press to separate it.

Despite the location of this bad seal......this repair is always worth it......$60 seal on a well cared for Tundra....plus gasket & belt.....indeed it is labor intensive.....BUT whether DIY or have a pro like Petr, the labor is always worth it to replace a seal !!

Why does it say 187 on the actuator? Mine says 187 as well .

thank you for the explanation! . This is probably my problem too but at very early stage. Occasionally and randomly my clutch refuse engage and there was some rough shifting. My mechanic made a quick check upon request but there was not external leakage at the rod. The piston seal (internal) and not rod seal (external) failed that does not allow sufficient pressure to actuate the clutch.

Thanks for the tips. My car is having the same problem.

I would be tempted to try a 'High Mileage oil with Seal Conditioners' for a few oil changes to see if that helps first.

Upgrade that filter canister to the metal version, alot better to take off.

A shout to this man. I think this will help my car. 👏👏👏👏

going on my 2gr lol

Use some AT205 Reseal first.

the inside of that engine looks remarkably clean for a 20 year old truck with 140k miles

That customer is blessed to have you for a mechanic. You saved the life of that beautiful truck. At the dealer, it would likely be totaled based on the cost of repair, if they would condescend to do it at all.

I finally found gloves that last. Tight, strong, rarely rips, and I use them for a long long time before pulling new set. 100 for $30 and worth it. A box lasts almost a year.

I had cam seal leak on a 2006 cam seal. It is costly repair. I had around 180,000 miles. Was a saver though. Got the van used and Carfax stated timing belt replaced at 178,000. Found that belt was tearing and about to go. Can't trust anything.

Greetings from brasil. Very helpful your video. I have a 2021 yaris, and i always keep the temperature at 23 Celsius. I am a taxi driver. But since the last cabin filter change my air conditioning has been eventually mal functioning. Which the temperature rising geting warm. Them i low on the display and is fine. But is annoying. Do you think can be the relay? Thank you

Thank you Peter! I have a Non-VVTI 4.7L V8 in my 4runner, is the same procedure true for the non-VVTI, or can it be done w/o removing the cams?

New used engine?🤷🏻‍♂️

Another stupid Toyota design: 2007 Tacoma with the 2.7ltr 4 cylinder. The water pipe that takes water from the back of the water pump and brings it to the firewall for the heater core. The pipe is plastic and eventually fails. Toyota knew it was an issue because the replacement from Toyota is stainless steel. That was a day of fun replacing that pipe.😮

Our shop has worked on many Toyotas and they're designed well, but they still have their issues. Using a stop leak is only prolonging the inevitable for the vehicle owner. We have a 2005 Toyota 4 Runner with 292,000 miles that has a leaky rear engine seal and the same 4.7 liter engine. The owner knows the costs involved as most of it is labor. This engine is known to reach 1,000,000 miles and leaky seals shouldn't categorize this engine as bad/poor engineering.

That's caused by long oil change intervals.the Customer might get lucky if he pours some berrymens engine cleaner in for 15 minutes, drain and put new oil in and add a bottle of ATP-205 Reseal ,if he can't afford the repair

I would dump a couple of ounces of 'AT205 Re-Seal' in the oil first, & see if it stops the leak. It might work. It fixed my leaking power steering pump.

Petr,Thanks for an interesting video. Keep up the good work.

Did you notice, at time 8:57, that the valve cover is cracked?

Before doing all that work, I'd try AT-205 Re-Seal first. You might get lucky!

I feel sorry 😔 for the Tundra owner. Wonder what really would have caused this.?😱

Good video Peter,, Thanks so much!!!

Sounds like a good reason to choose a 2004 Tundra - which also has the older 4 speed transmission with a dip stick.

Petr, If the repair last for another 19 years it will be worth the cost.

I would try a bottle of AT-205 Reseal before opening that engine up.

Amazing details! Thanks for sharing this with us. I have this issue on my 06 Tundra on the driver side. I will be doing both sides myself when I do the timing belt/water pump. I'm rebuilding a 5VZFE and it has given me confidence to do the 2UZ-FE.

Just pray you get a good part. I’m beginning to get bad parts time and time again for my 2004 tundra & 2007 Sequoia.

just like the idea, could you pls record a process of your works, that would be amazing

Thats a lot of work, I'd let her leak , good rust protection

What's the labor cost to replace this seal usually cost? Hours of labor?

To good Mate

You’re good at 4x4 vehicles, so I’ve got a question. Can I install diff-lock system in the differential of this kind of cars, 1st gen sequoia? I’d be much obliged if you reply me!

You think by now Peter would realize that in America, you get what you pay for.

Having dealt with the same type of items for over a decade on Amazon, this is common practice. Things look the same, but they’re not. They should sing the song from Sesame Street. Can you tell which one is not like the other? Can you tell which one doesn’t belong?

WOW that was good.thanks

Very poor quality control maybe .

My company uses the same gloves you are showing.. every time we open a box it's a surprise. Sometimes the glove is loose and sometimes it's tight.. depends on the fit if I use extra large or 2xlarge..

a lot of products took a hit in quality during COVID shortages and maybe they improved after the shortages were lifted?

I have had good luck and consistency with orange 8 mil gloveworks from amazon 24.00$ per 100

Yes, there are fake products all over eBay & Amazon, but they will be normally much cheaper.

Great video 😀

- Dam those counterfeit products tricking us….well…got to go….I’m binge watching TickTock. 😆

Didn't this happen to you a while back?

Compare the upc numbers on the box.

Weigh them with postage scale. Fake are usually lighter.