@@boca835 Great comment though. Thank you.

@@solonow5376 what makes you think it was cheap? Cheap is a relative term after all.

I can't say I was overly impressed with the door but it was much better than some of the others in their price range.

@@ktmdays we offer a volume discount if you want more than one. Give me a call if you’re seriously interested.

@@deanl2427 Thanks. That took about 4 takes to get that far. Probably could have done better but they were getting tired of loading and unloading the safe.

@@parkerssafes 😂 the moment when the guys finally realized that they work harder and unload more safes when the boss has his camera out… The real kicker set in later that evening when every one of them came to the realization that all those unloads yet every safe in the store is still exactly where they were yesterday 😳🤔😄

@@dubltink indeed. I’d say it was one of our more labor-intensive videos!

@@JamesDiaz-v7h The pallet doesn’t have cross members under the safe.

I would hope so

@@dubltink Thank you!

Is it over a crawlspace or maybe a better question would be do you have access to the floor joists?

HOw heavy can you go and how much volume of heavy base can you have, under your floor? Maybe a metal plate that is wider than the safe's bottom surface would help ON TOP of the wooden floor even if it is a couple of inches wider where possible. You can fix that bottom plate with 'a million' screws/bolts to your wooden floor. Then have the same holes as in the bottom of the safe, maybe under your wooden floor, a strong but relative light tile or block to anchor it all with bolts? If there is crawl space, then you could build a base of concrete or bricksall the way up the floor level and it would be the same as a concrete floor. I can imagine metal wires, chains etc would piss off a saw cutting through the floor as well.

and chatgpt says: It seems like the conversation is focused on securing a heavy safe to a wooden residential floor in a way that provides stability and security, while considering the structural limitations of the floor itself. Here's a breakdown of the key points and possible solutions from the exchange, along with some further thoughts: Access to Floor Joists: If there is access to the joists (e.g., from a crawlspace or basement), securing the safe to the joists would significantly improve its stability. You could use heavy-duty bolts or lag screws to attach the safe directly to the joists, which would help distribute the weight and provide more security. Distributing Weight: As @PeterSsailing suggests, using a metal plate or even a thick wooden plank under the safe, slightly larger than the safe's footprint, can help spread the load across a larger area of the floor. This reduces the risk of the floor sagging or collapsing under the weight of the safe. Anchoring Options: If access to the floor below is possible, creating a reinforced base (e.g., with concrete, bricks, or even steel supports) underneath the safe can simulate a solid foundation like a concrete slab. This is especially useful if the safe is heavy. Additionally, if you're concerned about someone cutting through the floor from underneath, adding materials like metal plates, wires, or chains could make it much harder for someone to use saws or other tools. Practical Considerations: Depending on the safe's weight and size, you might want to consult with a structural engineer to make sure the floor can handle the weight. Overloading a wooden floor system could lead to serious structural issues over time. In summary, the best approach likely combines spreading the weight (via a base plate), bolting the safe through to the joists if possible, and reinforcing the floor from below if you have access.

and then I discussed with chatgpt: But I suggested the plate not for weight distribution (good point chatgpt btw), but to prevent prying underneath etc ChatGPT said: ChatGPT Ah, I see! Your suggestion of using a metal plate wasn't primarily for weight distribution, but rather for security-to prevent prying under the safe or tampering with the floor beneath it. That’s a smart idea! Here's how your approach works in that context: Prying Prevention: A wider metal plate, secured to the floor with plenty of screws or bolts, would make it much harder for someone to get a pry bar underneath the safe. By increasing the surface area and making it flush with the floor, you minimize the gaps where tools could be inserted. Reinforcing the Floor Against Attacks: By ensuring the plate covers more than just the base of the safe, you make it difficult for anyone to cut through the floor beneath. This is especially important if there's access from below (like a crawlspace). It would frustrate attempts to pry the safe loose or attack it from underneath. Bolt Alignment: Matching the plate's holes with the safe's bolt holes (or adding them where necessary) ensures that the safe is firmly bolted into both the plate and floor. This dual-layer defense makes the entire structure much more secure against tampering. In short, the plate adds an extra layer of physical security, complementing the other measures like anchoring into joists and preventing access from below. It’s a clever and practical idea for making the safe harder to attack!

@@BB-gr9hq It doesn’t have to be complicated at all provided you can get underneath the house that is. If you can get underneath the house, put the safe where you want it, then run some 4 inch lags down through the anchor holes and through the subfloor, go underneath and see where those lags are, then back the lags out , hold a 4 x 4 uptight against the subfloor and have someone run the lags down in through the floor through the same holes and into your 4 x 4 this technique doesn’t involve a lot of brain work or measurements and keeps the bad guys from being able to see where the anchors are and is very secure given the fact that they’d have to remove the chunk of plywood out with it. That’s how we’ve been doing it for years. I’m sure there are more complicated ways though.

This guy gets it!

@@yellowmetaldriver1460 thanks I guess the great thing about these clam-shell doors is that you can always adjust things after the fact.

@parkerssafes absoloutely simple to just loosen slightly, shift up then retighten. Ask me how I know! Lol

@@superdutyohv3401 it was around 2k

@@colesworld6655 These are the real deal. if you’re used to the big box store, cabinet-like safe prices, you might want to sit down first…Let me know when you’re ready.

20k

@@giterdun1864I’m guessing more like $25-30K

In a decade you won’t even think about the price and will just be happy that you have something worth a d@mn.

@@BrianBourgeois-well said

@@waledharedy1370 Right. The country was established in what 1949? I guess I should’ve said they’ve been making safes since 1914.

@@ElektroKinetik Yep. Most folks are used to the big box store prices for “safes” but if you have valuables that need protection, those metal cabinets won’t cut it. There’s a big difference between these two types of safes.

original purchaser only

That’s a fair point. Before 1948, perhaps they were made in the lands of Israel. It’s worth checking out as I don’t know.

@@derrickperez713 if you have an American built American Security, then yes. If you look at the handle, there are two black plastic looking caps- one on the top of the handle and one on the bottom -if you carefully remove those caps that are more like stickers, I believe you’ll find, a hex head bolt. Just tighten that up with an Allen wrench and put the little sticker back on.

@@jimbograves1576 I know. I have a better microphone now. Cheers

@@peteburns6208 Graffunder and all of the U.S. built American Security gun safes do. There are other manufacturers that have models with plate steel doors, but you have to do your homework to make sure you’re getting one. Most safes nowadays have what we call a composite door which is made to look thick, but there’s really not much steel in it at all. It’s usually hollow with their fire lining inside which is usually sheetrock.

Thank you for the advice. Appreciate that.

@@QuadTap Thank you! Glad you like them.

I believe one was. Bolted actually makes it easier as the safe doesn't move while it's being pried on.

@@QuadTap thank you!

@@deanl2427 they do it with a 1 1/2” door too.

@@greatstuffs In my experience, they’re both about the same.

@@thomasronniefsurt I’d say it’s one of the better Chinese produced safes.

@@ShowemRight The 4 x 4‘s are not vertical. They’re flat underneath the plywood. This way there’s no exposed anchors for a bad guy to cut. Going to all the work with the concrete and mesh and all that would be extreme overkill for most applications as the weakest point is always the weakest point.

​@@parkerssafesexactly what I was thinking it would just be faster to go through the door at this point what you did is way more than adequate especially adding the 2x4's underneath it'll definitely be more then enough to prevent a smash and grab or a few guys from flipping it on side to get better leverage when performing a prying attack... The only time you would secure more then this is with a high security TL-15 or greater U.L rated safe which would weigh 6 times more than a flimsy gun safe and presumably it would be already sitting on concrete.

@@Lgg42069 4x4’s

@@parkerssafes even better... You ain't ripping that up easily