@@benparkinson925 i am used to it so there is no point getting angry anymore. To be really honest with you, most kitchen companies are getting worse. The quality is not the same as 10-15 years ago. I am working on a new video where I compare three kitchen companies. I always speak the truth in my personal life and in my videos. It's who I am. I am not making untrue propaganda, but expressing my opinion. All the best !

@@Deadly1996 It's the cost, and also in this particular case the chimney is shared with the neighbour so they would have to agree, share the cost etc so it becomes complicated.

@@yesconstructionltd Aha I see, thanks for the answer!

In my case it was removed above the roof but left in the flat 🙄

@@beks1731 Ok 😁 It must have been leaking or causing some other issues if someone took it down at the top.

@@turtlehomes411 Thanks mate 😉 You need to use engineered wood, not solid. Solid will go nuts with the heat. It's advised to stick it on, especially if you are using small planks. The adhesive is super flexible and allows for the movement. It's like silicone but even more flexible. Don't glue the planks together (disaster) only underneath it. I have seen the floating floor lifting in the middle a couple of times in the winter. If you stick it on, it won't happen. On one job we used the luxury vinyl and it was floating and it's fine. I called the manufacturer and I asked. They have a technical department for answering those questions so if I was you, I'll give them a call. I hope it all goes well and I am more than happy to share anything I know so don't hesitate 😉

@@yesconstructionltd Awesome! Thanks for a very thorough reply. Cool I'll just roll with what you've done and stick it down. Makes perfect sense not sticking it together

@@bu9301 Thank you 😉

@@TsubasaAbs I used 18mm on this build so 3mm gap but after painting is about 2. I like to leave that space available, much easier to adjust nicely. Thanks for engaging 😉

I am really sorry for this. I have all the material and calculations ready for a long time, just need to put the video together. Soon, I promise 😊

@@2803hamza Thank you Hamza 😊 I am looking forward to it

​@@yesconstructionltddo you have a number I can reach you on? Thanks

@@stojkaangelkovski3307 Hello mate. Thanks for asking. Slough is too far for us, sorry 😐

@@HenrykKwak Dzięki 😉

@@MikeMason1 Thanks 😉

@@jamesa6091 Thank you James 😉

@@benjaminh860 Hi It's quite costly because it's a lot of work. In the video the house is after a demolition so everything is open and ready to work on. Imagine doing this in a habitable house, the mess and making good afterwards. Why do you want to remove the chimney on the roof but not inside? Is it in a bad condition? That is also costly. You will need a scaffold, roofer to patch it up and a skip

@@yesconstructionltd wow thanks for responding. I'm just sitting here watching your videos! The reason i want to remove my chimney stack is because I don't really like it and don't want future issues like damp etc. Do I need a structural engineer to remove the chimney stack, or is that only for chimney breasts? Thanks so much for responding!

@@benjaminh860 To be honest with you, I never had to remove the stuck in 20 years of my career as a builder but I know how to do it. It's a straight forward job without the need of steel or brackets. I don't think you need any calculations but just to be on the safe side, call a structural engineer and ask. It's pointless having chimneys. Waste of space and as you mentioned, they can cause damp, fungus and all sorts of problems.

@@yesconstructionltd thanks for responding!

@@UKPRESCRIPTIONGLASSESREVIEWS Thanks Is this you Ahmed ?

@@user-ve1fe8vg2c Thank you 😉

@@dariuszgwiazdowskiqd1040 Thanks mate 😉

@@benjones-eb3rr Cheers mate 😉

@@Madmik Hi, and thank you for engaging It's the sharp angle on top of the door wouldn't allow it to open fully. The inner side of the door in that top corner would rub on the frame. Using different hinges could resolve the problem but in this case, because of the step in scenario, only 90 degree hinges would work, hence we have the triangles

@@KilkennyLights Thanks Frank Good luck 🤞

@@Deanwhitfield We normally do, but at the time this was built we had nationwide problems with materials supply. The BC approved the membrane instead

@@KilkennyLights Thanks mate 😉 Skylight glass it is. Combination of two glasses glued together. One larger to cover the outside and one smaller to go inside. Wooden batten holding it from the bottom, covered with plasterboard. You can get UV reflective glass as well, it will help to keep it cool in summer. It's not hard. It's all about building the frame 6x2 joist. The glass gets measured, supplied and installed by the glass company. This video should be sufficient for you to understand how and surely you can do it 😉

Apologies for the late reply I am going to prepare the video soon. I am sorry for taking so long. Been busy building 😊

@@njc4725 Hi Not a problem In this case we have already demolished house with all the ceilings down, nothing to protect or make good after so the price is lower We charged £4,500 including materials and waste removal.

@@Alex-if3sr Hi There are 7 steels all together. You can see how we are installing them in my other video from the same playlist. The main steel is 305x203 and 8m long It has splice on 1/3 and joining plates due to difficult access. In one piece, it would have been a nightmare to move around and install

@@colaistechiarain5768 Hello, and thank you for engaging We installed the 150mm insulation under the gutter so the roof doesn't have a cold spot. We overlapped it by 200mm just to be sure 😊 It was done under the BC supervision so this is the correct way.

@@MrDanybe Indeed! I absolutely love silicon render. So much easier to work with, fully waterproof, it's time to move on with times 😉

I am happy for you 😉 it seems that Wren it's getting better after all. I really hope that they do.

Hello mate Thanks 👍 You need to install the barrier onto the joist from the inside. Use 50mm double sided tape. As you tighten the plasterboard the tape will compress and seal the penetration (so they say) 😉

Sure 😊

Cheers 😉

Hello mate We laid the underfloor heating by ourselves so we know where it is. We keep it 200 mm away from walls, kitchen units, doors etc. If you are not sure you can turn on the heating and switch on the thermal camera (it will show you where the pipes are )

Hi, and thank you for engaging. There are many ways of finishing a flat roof. In the video we are using top quality materials and the job is executed properly so roofs like this should last a very, very long time.

Hi Thank you for stopping by 😊 It's one of my older videos kzfaq.info/get/bejne/htSZdLKJrL7emKM.htmlsi=CN70VI5Wjypm7-tw

That would be a perfect solution. You can increase insulation thickness. Installation of the polystyrene would be different. You would use glue and screws as well. Looks great and you insulate the house at the same time. Thanks for engaging 😉

Thanks for quick reply. Hiw much would it cost to do this for eg front of a typical semi detached london ilford house please?

@@UKPRESCRIPTIONGLASSESREVIEWS Hi Can't tell without seeing the property. Sometimes we have to extend the roof to accommodate for the insulation. Sometimes the pebble dash is falling off so we need to strip it completely . We spoke on the phone today. Let's meet up at the property and we will discuss.

Thank you 😉

Hi Thanks for engaging We had drawings to follow on this particular project, so we did what was prescribed. If you don't have structural drawings and specifications for the job, getting BC approval might be challenging. If you are doing the job without BC supervision and want to do it right, you should use the plates. They provide a perfectly flat surface for the steel to rest on, eliminating the possibility of the steel sinking and potentially cracking the chimney. If you do not have the plate, I suggest removing three layers of bricks below where the steel will rest and rebuilding it with engineering bricks. Leave at least 20mm space between the bricks and the steel, and pack it in with a drypack. You and I know that this will be sufficient and never collapse, but once again, I firmly believe in doing things by the book. This way, you will sleep better 😉 I hope I was of help.

Thank you very much

Hi Thank you 😉 I am glad someone is watching it

Thanks mate 😉 trying my best

Just realised who you are 😊 I hope you are well

Thank you Darek 😉

Really? Please share the details. I did so much research and I couldn't find anything for the 3-4 mm . Thanks 🙏 for engaging

@@yesconstructionltd The company is called GH Supplies, you'll find them online.. Look at the QIC reveal beads. For what you are doing get the Type R bead. The Type D is supposedly for the shadow gaps around frames but I wouldn't recommend them, too little tolerance and hard to get right. Check them out online and let me know what you think. You are a decent chippie so happy to share what I know.

@@yesconstructionltd I've actually recommended the company on a previous upload of yours but comments seem to be deleted. Look online for GH supplies. They stock QIC range of trims For what you are doing get the Type R trim, the Type D is specifically for shadow gaps around frames but I wouldn't recommend it, it's too difficult to keep flush with the frame.

@@kevocos Thank you so much for this. Yeah, strange. Maybe because you were advertising a business. I didn't see the comment .

100% This way it's totally independent. The plaster is not touching the wood so it shouldn't trigger cracking. Thanks for engaging 😊

Thank you for this lovely comment. You made my day😊 I love shearing what I know with others.

Thanks mate 😉